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Development history of clothing in China
Original clothes

According to the unearthed clothing tools such as bone needles and bone cones, the original clothing was reconstructed. Before the invention of textile technology, animal fur was the main material of people's clothes. At that time, there was no rope or thread, and clothes could be sewn with animal ligaments. In Neanderthal sites and other ancient tombs, a large number of ornaments, including headdresses, neck ornaments and wrist ornaments, were excavated from the ground floor. These materials include natural and beautiful stones, fish bones with animal teeth and shells in the sea. These ornaments were worn not only for decoration, but also to commemorate the victory of fishing and hunting. [Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]

Shang dynasty's hairstyle

Part of the hairstyle of Shang Dynasty (Jade Man Unearthed from Muhao Tomb in Anyang Stock Market, Henan Province). Men's hairstyles in Shang Dynasty were mainly braided. According to the image data, there are many styles of men's braiding in this period, some of which have been braided at the top and hung to the back of the head; There are curly left and right braids that hang down to the shoulders; Some people braid their hair and wrap it around their heads, and so on. This picture shows the total hair at the top, braided and hanging to the back of the head.

Shang dynasty hairstyle bone joint

Shang dynasty hair style Shang dynasty bones (handed down from ancient times, the original is now in Shanghai Museum). In the new era of China, bones, mussels, jade and bronze were used to fix the bun. Mats were used by men and women in the Zhou dynasty, not only to fix the bun, but also to fix the crown and hat. In ancient times, the hat was big enough to hold the head, but the crown was small enough to hold the bun, so the crown had to be fixed by inserting the bun from the left and right sides with double clips. Clothes with fixed crowns and hats are called "balance clothes", and the Zhou Dynasty set up "chasing teachers" management. After the balance is inserted into the crown cover and fixed in the bun, it must be pulled to the jaw from the left and right ends with ribbons and fixed with bolts. From the Zhou Dynasty, women were regarded as adults when they reached the age of fifteen and were allowed to get married. If marriage is not allowed, a wedding will be held at the age of 20. Women will comb a bun for women of the same age, insert a quilt and take it off after the ceremony.

Shang dynasty crown ornaments

The crown of Shang dynasty was a noble man wearing a drum-shaped crown scarf and gorgeous clothes (jade man unearthed from the tomb of a good woman in Anyang, Henan Province). Wearing a dress with a cross collar and narrow sleeves, it is gorgeous and covered with moiré. The waist is wide, the belt is pressed under the collar, and the clothes are knee-length. There is a rectangular "knee cover" hanging on the abdomen. Put on your shoes. There is a cloud-like ornament on the left waist, which seems to be wearing a sword or something. [Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]

Shangzhou guizu clothing

Show of nobles wearing narrow-sleeved woven clothes and knee-covering clothes in Shang and Zhou Dynasties. During this period, the fabrics were mostly warm colors, especially yellow and red, and occasionally brown and brown, but this does not mean that there were no cool colors such as basket and green. Only the red yellow made of cinnabar and stone yellow is brighter and more penetrating than other colors, so it has remained unchanged for a long time and has been preserved to this day. According to the analysis of modern science and technology, the method of dyeing and weaving in Shang and Zhou dynasties was often a combination of dyeing and painting, especially the positive colors such as red and yellow, which were often painted with a brush after the fabric was woven. (Restored and drawn according to unearthed jade clothing)

Dongzhou nanren clothing

Men's wear exhibition with rectangular collar and narrow sleeves in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty. The dress of Zhou Dynasty generally followed the dress system of Shang Dynasty, but it changed slightly. The style of clothes is slightly looser than that of Shang Dynasty. There are two kinds of sleeves: big sleeves and small sleeve, and the collar is generally rectangular, as shown in the figure. Clothing in this period has not been twisted, usually tied around the waist, and some belts are still hung with jade ornaments. At that time, there were mainly two kinds of belts: one was made of silk fabric, which was called "big belt" or "gentry belt". Another kind of belt is made of leather, which is called "belt". This picture shows a gentleman's belt.

Khufu in the Warring States Period

During the Warring States period, the clothing of Khufu changed obviously, and more importantly, the popularity of Khufu. The so-called Hu fu is actually the costumes of ethnic minorities in the northwest, which is very different from the Bo-Dai Han nationality in Take off your coat, Central China. Generally, short coats, trousers and leather boots are thin and narrow, which is convenient for activities. King Wuling of Zhao, who first adopted this kind of clothing, was the earliest reformer in China's clothing history. The knee-length jacket is a major feature of Khufu, which was first used in the army and later introduced to the people and became a common costume. The picture on the left shows an acrobatic artist wearing a short jacket with narrow sleeves (Bronze Man of the Warring States Period, handed down from generation to generation, the original is now in the friel Art Museum in Washington, DC, USA). The middle picture shows a slave wearing a short coat with narrow sleeves and a Hu suit (a bronze lampstand unearthed in Hebei Province). The picture on the right shows a man wearing a crown and a knee-length narrow-sleeved Hu suit (bronze man of the Warring States period unearthed in Shangcunling, Sanmenxia, Henan Province). [Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]

Chu Guo GUI fu clothing

Embroidered single clothes and embroidery patterns of Chu ladies (unearthed from Chu Tomb No.1 Mazhuan, Jiangling, Hubei Province). There are more than ten pieces of costumes unearthed from Chu tombs in the middle of the Warring States period, including silks, silks, brocade, yarn, brocade, etc., which are the earliest physical objects seen at present. From the physical point of view, the styles of brocade robe and Zen garment are basically the same, that is, the front, back and two sleeves are one each, and the width of each piece is roughly equal to the width of the fabric itself. Right-handed, cross straight. The body, sleeves and hem are straight. Collar, sleeve, lapel and hem all have an edge, and the end edge of sleeve is rather strange, so it is usually inlaid with two colors of colorful tapestry.

Warring States women's dress

Exhibition of women's colorful robes in the Warring States period (refer to the restoration of unearthed silk paintings). There is an obvious difference between clothes with deep curves and other clothes, except that the lower part and the upper part of the coat are connected together, which is called "continuous hem" Pants are skirts. "Continuation" means extending the skirt. "Crochet" describes the style of skirt. It changed the previous cutting method that clothes were mostly slit at the bottom. The front and rear pieces of the left skirt are stitched, and the rear skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt.

Warring States period with hook

The use of hooks in the Warring States period can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn Period. Many objects were found in the tombs of the Spring and Autumn Period unearthed in Shandong, Shaanxi, Henan and other places, and they were also recorded in historical materials. Because it is more convenient to use hook system than gentry belt, it is gradually widely used, replacing the position of silk tapestry. After the Warring States period, princes, nobles and celebrities were decorated with hooks, forming an atmosphere. The production of hooks is becoming more and more complicated. Its function is not only to bind the waist at the top of the belt, but also to wear knives, swords, mirrors, seals or other decorative items at the waist side. After the Northern and Southern Dynasties, a new type of belt "water swing belt" replaced the hook belt. The sling hose does not need a hook, but with the buckle, the function of the hook disappears. This picture is from left to right: gold and silver staggered hook, gold inlaid jade hook, gold inlaid jade silver hook, gold and silver staggered shovel hook and treasure inlaid dragon pattern hook. [Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]

Shanggu Shangzhou clothing

Ancient Shang and Zhou costumes show narrow-sleeved women's dresses in the Warring States period (based on the bronze pot pattern unearthed in Chengdu, Sichuan). There is an obvious difference between clothes with deep curves and other clothes, except that the lower part and the upper part of the coat are connected together, which is called "continuous hem" Pants are skirts. "Continuation" means extending the skirt. "Crochet" describes the style of skirt. Changed the previous cutting method that clothes were mostly spread at the bottom. The front and rear pieces of the left skirt are stitched, and the rear skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt. Women's narrow-sleeved clothes are slightly shorter, and long skirts mop the floor.

Warring States warrior costume

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Shanggu junrong clothing

Restoration map of western Zhou samurai in ancient Shang and Zhou dynasties Ancient armor, mostly made of leather such as rhinoceros and shark, was painted with color. In the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, armor included "training armor" and "real armor" in addition to leather armor. Armor training time is earlier, mostly made of silk and thick cotton, which belongs to the category of cloth armor. Armor appeared in the mid-Warring States period, and its predecessor was bronze armor, which is a relatively simple animal breastplate. During the Warring States period, armor was usually made of iron sheets in the shape of fish scales or willow leaves, and was made by perforation and assembly. [Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]

Men's songs in Han dynasty

Deep clothing for men's dramas in Han dynasty (taking the restoration of pottery figurines unearthed in Xianyang, Shaanxi Province as an example). Men's clothing styles in Han Dynasty can be roughly divided into Qu Luan and Zhi Luan. Qu Qu, that is, the deep clothes popular in the Warring States period. It was still used in the Han Dynasty, but it was more common in the early Western Han Dynasty. By the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was rare for men to wear deep clothes, usually straight clothes, but they could not be used as formal clothes. This photo is such a crooked dress.

Long crown in Han dynasty

An official wearing a long crown and robes in the Han Dynasty (clothes and wooden figurines unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province). The long crown, previously worn by Liu Bang, the ancestor of the Han Dynasty, was made of bamboo skin, so it was called Liu Guan. Later it was designated as a sacrificial costume for officials above the official level, also known as Zhai Guan, which was worn by clothes and wooden figurines unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province. In Qin and Han dynasties, robes were the most expensive men's wear. Robes have always been considered as dresses. Their basic styles are mostly big sleeves, with obvious convergence of cuffs and lace on collars and sleeves. The collar of the robe is mainly bare collar, mostly cut into a heart shape, revealing underwear when wearing it. This kind of robe is a common dress of officials in the Han Dynasty, and can be worn regardless of civil and military positions. This photo shows wearing a long crown, a black crimson leader robe and crimson pantyhose.

The coronation of the Han emperor

Costumes of Qin and Han Dynasties: coronation map of emperor, coronation map and red crown map (refer to the written records and restoration drawings of pottery figurines unearthed from Han tombs in Jinan, Shandong Province and stone reliefs unearthed from Han tombs in Yinan). This picture was restored and drawn according to literature records and pattern data. The patterns on clothes are mostly brick paintings, lacquer paintings, silk paintings and portrait bricks of the same period. The crown is a ceremonial crown worn by the courtiers of ancient emperors when attending sacrificial ceremonies. Used as sacrificial clothing for emperors, princes, etc. At the top of the crown, there is a rectangular crown plate behind the front circle, and the "crown" is hung on the front and back of the crown plate. [Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]

According to the difference of quantity and material, crown is an important symbol to distinguish between noble and noble. According to the Han dynasty, the emperor's crown is twelve (twelve rows), made of jade. The color of the crown is mainly black. On both sides of the crown, there is a hole for inserting jade pieces to tie them with the bun. Tie ribbons on both sides of the quilt and tie them under the jaw. On the two ears of the ribbon, there is also a pearl jade, named "Yuner". Don't put it in your ear, just tie it to your ear to remind the wearer not to listen to rumors. Later generations "allow the ear not to smell" came from this. According to the regulations, anyone who wears a crown must wear a crown suit. The coronation suit is decorated with a mysterious coat and a scarlet bottom, with chapters on the top and bottom. In addition, there are kneepads, swords, Chiba and so on. Form a complete set of clothes. This dress system began in the Zhou Dynasty, went through the Han, Tang, Song and Yuan Dynasties, and lasted for more than two thousand years until the Qing Dynasty.

Han dynasty general Jia

Han dynasty armor Han dynasty generals armor exhibition map. The Qin Dynasty is the most comprehensive, accurate and detailed dynasty in the history of China, which is attributed to the discovery of the Terracotta Warriors and Horses in the Mausoleum of Qin Shihuang. Judging from the pottery figurines unearthed in pits Lintong 1, 2 and 3, Shaanxi Province, the carving technology of these terracotta warriors and horses is extremely realistic, not only the figures are self-possessed and lifelike. Warrior figurines unearthed in Qin Dynasty are divided into military figurines, military attache figurines, knight figurines, archer figurines and infantry figurines, and their armor and costumes show a strict hierarchy. This is the armor shape during the drought in the west, which is mainly used for generals. The nail body is composed of small scales with fourteen or five rows. Below the belt and shoulders, armor is still used to facilitate activities.

Women in Qin and Han Dynasties

Women's colorful clothes in Qin and Han Dynasties (based on the restoration of pottery figurines unearthed in Xi 'an and Xuzhou) and women wearing colorful clothes (pottery figurines unearthed in Tongshan Han Tomb in Xuzhou, Jiangsu). In the Han dynasty, colorful deep clothes were not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's clothing, which was reflected in many image materials. This kind of clothing is tight and narrow, long and easy to drag, and its hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes".

Wei and Jin dynasties cage crown big sleeve shirt [transferred from Iron Blood Community/]

Men in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties usually wore long-sleeved shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion. The image of the halter crown is similar to that unearthed in the tombs of the Northern Dynasties, but the time is earlier than other materials. It can be seen that the halter crown did not come from Hu Customs, but was first popular in the Central Plains, and then gradually spread to the north, becoming one of the main crown styles in the Northern Dynasties. This picture shows a shirt with large sleeves and a sarong crown.

Wei Jin za fu

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the traditional deep clothing system was no longer adopted by men, but it was still worn by women. Compared with the Han dynasty, this kind of clothing is very different. Typically, clothes are decorated with "fiber rolls". The so-called "fiber" refers to the decorations fixed at the hem of clothes. Usually made of silk fabric, it is characterized by a triangle with a wide upper part and a sharp lower part, which is stacked up and down. The so-called "curly hair" refers to the ribbon protruding from the apron. The ribbon dragged on for a long time and walked like a swallow. In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, this kind of dress changed again, removing the ribbon that mopped the floor and lengthening the "dovetail" with sharp corners, so that the two were integrated. Miscellaneous clothing display diagram

Liang Jia in Southern and Northern Dynasties

The armor of the Southern and Northern Dynasties is mainly composed of two sleeves, hip armor and bright armor. The origin of the word "bright armor" is said to be related to the circular protection on the chest and back. Because most of these circular shields are made of metals such as copper and iron, the polished aurora looks like a mirror. Wearing bright armor on the battlefield will give off dazzling "light" because of the sun's irradiation, hence the name. There are many styles of this kind of armor, and the complexity is also different: some just add two round guards at the front and back of the crotch, some are equipped with shoulder pads and knee pads, and some are so complicated that there are several shoulder pads. Most of the bulletproof vests grow to the hips, and the waist is tied with a belt. On the left, the terracotta figures are military commanders wearing gloves and bright armor. On the right is the display of bright armor. Crotch armor in Wei and Jin Dynasties [transferred from Tiexue Community/]

Two-legged armor in Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties The armor in Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties mainly includes two-legged armor, hip armor and bright armor. "crouching" has two meanings, one is "crouching shirt" in the clothing system; One refers to the "two-crotch armor" worn by warriors. The appearance of the two is basically the same, and the difference is mainly in the material. Crotch shirts are generally made of cloth and silk with silk cotton in the middle to keep warm. Hip nails are mostly made of hard metal and leather. There are two kinds of armor plates: strip and fish scale. It is more common to use small fish scales on the chest and back to facilitate pitching activities. In order to prevent the metal nail plate from wearing the skin, samurai often wear a thick crotch shirt when wearing two crotch armor. The picture shows the wearing of hip armor (according to the unearthed brick carvings, pottery figurines and murals).

Women's skirts in Wei and Jin Dynasties

Blouses and skirts in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties are characterized by ladies and attendants wearing long sleeves and striped skirts (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes murals) and long sleeves and striped skirts (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes donor murals restored). On both sides of the tunnel in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and below the Buddhist stories, there are often rows of neat men and women, ranging from a few inches to a few feet high. Among them, there are both powerful and prominent officials and ordinary civilians. These figures all gave money to build caves, and they painted their own statues on the walls, indicating that all the bodhisattvas and Buddha statues in the caves were provided by them, so they were called cave owners, also known as providers. Many providers are equipped with inscriptions, indicating the year number, title, ranking, surname and so on. The clothes painted in this painting were universal at that time, and the pottery women unearthed in Luoyang, Henan Province also wore this kind of clothes. It is characterized by double-breasted waist, wide sleeves and sleeves with different colors at the cuffs. A striped skirt. At that time, women wore skirts, besides sunglasses, there were other skirts. Jin people's Old Story of the East Palace recorded the costumes of the Prince and Princess, including red gauze double skirts, gauze double skirts, cinnabar cup skirts and other famous colors. It can be seen that the production of women's skirts has been very delicate, and the colors of materials are also different.

The robes and robes of Tang officials

The official dress of men in the Tang Dynasty was the first dress developed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties, and it was also called Fu Tou. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right. Officials in the Tang Dynasty mainly wore round neck and narrow sleeves, and their colors have been stipulated: all officials with more than three products should use purple; More than five products, blushing for color; Six products and seven products are green; Eight products and nine products are cyan. There will be slight changes in the future. In addition, the application of horizontal bow under the robe was also a major feature of men's wear at that time. This soil is the exhibition of round neck gown and tulle in Tang Dynasty.

Uighur Women's Dress in the Middle and Late Tang Dynasty [transferred from Tiexue Community/]

Exhibition of Uighur women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. Comb a bun, wear a golden crown, wear a crane costume, a lady in the late Tang Dynasty and a variety of brocade shoes with colorful patterns. Uighur is a minority in the northwest of China, which is the predecessor of the present Uighur. During the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, Uighur was the most powerful minority regime in the north. Uighurs and Han people have close and friendly relations, and their cultural exchanges and economic exchanges have never stopped. The costumes of the Uighur nationality have had a great influence on the Han nationality, especially among aristocratic women and court women. The basic characteristics of Uighur clothes are slightly like men's robes, lapels, narrow sleeves, wide body and long ground. The color is mainly warm, especially red. Most of the materials are thick brocade, and the collar and sleeves are inlaid with wide brocade lace. Wearing this kind of clothing, you usually put your hair in a vertebral bun, which is called "Uighur bun". On the bun, there is another peach-shaped golden crown decorated with pearl jade, and there is a phoenix bird on it. Hairpins are usually inserted in temples, and many exquisite jewelry are worn on ears and neck. Wear soft brocade shoes with your head up.

Sui and Tang armor

Armor of Sui and Tang Dynasties The armor of Tang Dynasty was used in actual combat, mainly armor and leather armor. In addition to real armor and leather armor, silk armor was widely used in the armor of the Tang Dynasty. Silk armor is armor made of silk and other textiles. It is light in structure and beautiful in appearance, but it has no defensive ability and cannot be used in actual combat. It can only be used as a general's uniform or ceremonial uniform. The picture shows the wearing of armor.

Liaodai beiban clothing

The northern class in Liao Dynasty was mainly dressed in robes, which were available to both men and women. Clothing features are generally left collar, round neck and narrow sleeves. There are knotted buttons on the robe, which are tied to the chest and then hang down to the knees. The colors of robes are gray, such as gray-green, gray-blue, ochre yellow, black-green and so on, and the patterns are relatively simple. Most of the robes of the aristocratic class are exquisite and have flat rust patterns. Dragon pattern is a traditional pattern of Han nationality, which appears on the clothing of Qidan men, reflecting the mutual influence of the two nationalities. This picture shows a round neck robe.

Costume of Northern Class in Liao Dynasty [transferred from Tiexue Society/]

The northern class in Liao Dynasty was mainly dressed in robes, which were available to both men and women. Clothing features are generally left collar, round neck and narrow sleeves. There are knotted buttons on the robe, which are tied to the chest and then hang down to the knees. The color of robes is gray, such as gray-green, gray-blue, ochre yellow and black-green, and the pattern is simple. Most of the robes of the aristocratic class are exquisite and have flat rust patterns. This picture shows the left feather narrow sleeve robe.