On costume and its management.
Drama costume is an important part of stage performance and one of the indispensable forms of expression of characters in drama. Nowadays, the management of drama costumes is a professional, technical and complicated stage art work, and the managers of drama costumes must have professional and meticulous management ability to be competent in the management of drama costumes.
Keywords drama costume; Management; stagecraft
China Library Classification Number: J82 1.5 Document Identification Number: A Document Number:1007-0125 (2016) 07-0023-02.
First, an overview of theatrical costumes
There are various forms of stage art, such as lighting, props, makeup and so on. They serve the stage performance. Among them, costume is also one of the forms of stage art, and in a sense, without costume, it is impossible to better express stage characters and drama ideas. Drama costumes and other stage art forms add luster to the stage performance, thus providing high-quality spiritual food for the audience.
There are many kinds of traditional Chinese opera costumes, including big classification and small classification. From the big classification, there are ancient and modern points. Python, python, python, python, python, python and python belong to the category of ancient clothing, and then each category can be subdivided. There are many kinds of python, python, python and python are not single. This is a small classification. Modern clothing can be further classified according to the role's identity, age, occupation, etc., but it is not as complicated and relatively simple as ancient clothing.
Drama costume is an important part of stage performance, one of the indispensable manifestations of the characters in the play, an important auxiliary means to show the identity, personality and times of the stage characters, and an important way to show the background, social customs and prescribed situations in the play. Drama costume can't be separated from stage art, without which drama costume will become a passive water and a rootless tree.
Second, the relationship between theatrical costumes and stage art
In the history of the development of stage art, the weight of drama costumes can not be ignored. It can be said that without theatrical costumes, the development of stage art is unimaginable. Not only stage costumes, but also all stage art designs play a very important role. So, what is the relationship between theatrical costume and stage art? As we know, stage art is the general name of various art forms used to express the image of the stage, including music, acoustics, props, lighting, clothing, etc., and it is an inseparable part of stage performance. It can be seen that drama costume is one of the forms of stage art, and the relationship between them is part and whole. Drama costumes do not exist in isolation, but are organically combined with other stage art forms to achieve the corresponding stage performance effect. On the other hand, stage art cannot exist abstractly without theatrical costumes. Stage art is an artistic expression with specific content including theatrical costumes.
Third, the specific content of drama costumes.
Let's talk about the characteristics, functions and functions of traditional Chinese opera costumes, especially ancient costumes. As mentioned above, ancient clothing can be roughly divided into python, bidet, reclining, pleating, clothes and so on. Shall we talk about opera costumes first? Python？ .
In terms of classification, Python? It is divided into dragons and pythons, dragons and pythons, and phoenixes and pythons. One of its characteristics is that it can swing freely without tying the waist to show the psychological changes of the characters in the play. Another feature is that different stage figures are distinguished by different colors, and the colors are also very rich, with five colors above and five colors below. It can be seen that arbitrary swing and rich colors are two characteristics of python, which are used to express the characters in the play and increase the stage performance effect.
Hey? Stage performance has two characteristics, one is strong sense of identity, and the other is overall beauty. Why is there a strong sense of identity? This is because people who have no social status in the play will not wear this kind of clothing, such as ordinary people. The people who wear this kind of clothes at home are members of the royal family, officials and squires. Bi, also known as double-breasted robe, is divided into male and female. Male Bi is longer than female Bi, so it is comfortable to wear and has a loose feeling. Why is there overall beauty? This is because there is no difference in color and pattern when couples wear double-breasted robes, which are also called male and female flower buds. From the aesthetic point of view, there is a kind of symmetry and overall beauty.
Shit? Generally speaking, it has masculine beauty on the stage of drama, but women can set off the feminine beauty of female generals. ? Shit? This is a combat uniform. This is worn by military commanders. ? Shit? There are hard support, soft support and improved support. What is hard support? Soldiers on the stage wear small flags to show that they are at war at any time. What is a soft chair? A military commander who doesn't wear a flag is a soft chair, which means that the military commander is not in combat. Improving the clothes of generals is characterized by lightness and flexibility. The female backrest is decorative, hard and improved, and there is no soft backrest. The promotion of women on the stage is often the role of greenwood women. ? Shit? As a military commander's costume, whether male or female, it plays a very important role in expressing a military commander's identity in stage performance.
Wrinkles? There are minority folds, young civil and military clown folds, female folds and so on. Xiao Sheng pleats are divided into Xiao Sheng pleats and Vu Thang pleats, and the classification of female pleats is also very fine. So, how to distinguish them? The difference between Wen's clothing and Wu's clothing lies in the difference of patterns. The former is generally embroidered with scattered branches, while the latter is generally embroidered with flowers. Generally speaking, xiaosheng pleats strive to be lean in embroidery and elegant in color and pattern. On the other hand, the clowns of young civil and military officials are wrinkles with strong colors and scattered patterns.
Different female pleats are used to show the identity and status of different women. Some are rich young women, some are poor women. The pattern of the former female pleat is bright moon, camellia and scattered branches, while the latter female pleat is pure black. Plain clothes's figures on the stage are generally scholars, family members, "xianggong", servants and ordinary people. One of the characteristics of Lao Dan pleats is the large chest and oblique collar, which is the dress of poor women in Lao Dan.
Clothes? There are also many classifications. There are open clothes, official clothes, palace clothes, arrow clothes, hugging clothes, mandarin jackets, cloaks and so on. Kaiting's characteristic is style, which can be worn by senior military commanders, castellans and chivalrous men. Official uniforms represent civil servants, and the size of official positions can be distinguished by color. The difference between the improved official uniform and the general official uniform is that the general official uniform is square? Color matching? , chest and back each compose a piece; Improve official uniforms, don't you? Color matching? Instead, it was embroidered by Ping Jin. Compared with female pythons, the specifications of palace clothes are lower. Some big scenes don't apply. Arrow clothes are suitable for many identities, and there is generally no distinction between high and low. Emperors, generals, officials and jailers can use it. Embracing clothes is generally used for figures such as chivalrous men. Wearing mandarin jackets is very common, and civil and military officials and ordinary guards are not restricted. Cloak wearing is also less restricted.
Relatively speaking, modern drama costumes are simpler than ancient costumes, but they can't violate the artistic laws. We should start from the principle of serving the stage performance and design according to the different characteristics of the characters in the play. Modern clothing is divided into children, young people, middle-aged people and the elderly according to age. Professionally, there are cadres, workers, farmers, actors, students and other different clothes. What needs to be put forward is that there are both connections and differences between opera costumes and life costumes. Undeniably, drama costumes did not fall from the sky, but had the embryonic form of life costumes. However, traditional Chinese opera costumes serve the stage performance and are artistic, so they are derived from life clothes and are higher than life clothes. After artistic treatment, the drama costumes have aesthetic characteristics, which can highly show the images and characteristics of the stage characters.
Fourth, the management of stage costumes.
The management of stage costumes is very important. It can be said that without scientific clothing management, the effect and level of stage performance will be affected. So, how can we achieve scientific management? First of all, the clothing manager should be familiar with the script. Know which roles in the play need corresponding drama costumes, and the costumes of actors should be sorted and organized in an orderly way. Second, the clothing manager should master the skills of wearing clothes. The importance of this is self-evident. Because there are a lot of actors and costumes, we have to change clothes dynamically to catch up with the scene. The management personnel are not in place and the action is not fast, which will delay the actors' timely appearance, thus affecting the stage performance. Of course, the management of drama costumes is very professional and cannot be mastered in a short time. Besides studying hard, we need to accumulate practical experience. Clothing managers should pay attention to improving their comprehensive quality. First of all, we should have a strong sense of professional ethics. This is not much to say; Secondly, it is necessary to improve the cultural level and strengthen the knowledge reserve; Third, we should improve our artistic quality. This is not difficult to understand, because drama costumes do not exist in isolation, but are closely related to stage performances. If you don't understand art, you won't know how drama costumes serve the performance of characters and drama themes, and you will be at a loss in the management of drama costumes. Finally, we must innovate. In short, to do a good job in the management of stage costumes, we must consciously work hard in all aspects to improve our overall quality.
Stage costume management is a professional and highly technical stage art work. With the continuous development of China's cultural undertakings, drama costumes play an increasingly important role in stage performances, which requires our drama costume managers to fully realize the importance of drama costumes, strengthen artistic accomplishment, improve comprehensive quality and add luster to stage performances.
References:
[1] Qin. On the Importance of Traditional Chinese Opera Costume and Costume Managers [J]. Young Writers, 20 12(20).
[2] Cai. On traditional Chinese opera costumes? Stylized? Reform and innovation [J]. Grand stage, 20 1 1, (03): 13.
[3] Yang Hongwei. The emergence, development, design and management of theatrical costumes [J]. Yihai, 20 1 1(07).
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