Han Xizai's "The Night Banquet" truly reproduces people's clothing styles, fabrics, textures and popular fashions at that time. Han Xizai, the host of the banquet, wore a square black hat named "Han Junqing Ge", a double-breasted white gown, an open neckline, bare chest and abdomen, white socks and round boots on his feet. While enjoying singing and dancing, he added a black collar robe to his white shirt. Most of the male guests wear the same standard official uniforms as those in the Tang Dynasty, such as round neck shirts, black short-winged hoes, belts around their waists, and black leather boots. Those with higher status wear red robes, others wear green robes, and ladies-in-waiting also wear women's men's robes popular in the Tang Dynasty, that is, men's short crotch round neck robes.
Wudai women's dress
The late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, although it was the end of the prosperous period, no longer advocated luxury, but became practical. Compared with the high waistline, the skirt moves down, making it more convenient to wear and move, and the man's hoe becomes stiff and more rational.
After the late Tang and Five Dynasties, clothes were no longer colorful, but more concise and clear. During the Five Dynasties, women's skirts became narrower and silks became longer and narrower, reflecting the aesthetic characteristics of this period.
In the late Tang and Five Dynasties, clothing no longer pursued massiness and magnificence, but instead pursued elegance. This is mainly reflected in the changes in the color and hairstyle decoration of women's clothing in the Five Dynasties.
Women's clothing is completely different from the sleek and rich style of women in the Tang Dynasty. Their clothes look slender and delicate as a whole, with tight-fitting narrow-sleeved tops or straight-necked tops above and loose long skirts below. The skirt behind them is several feet long. The upper end of the long skirt is tied to the chest, and there is an embroidered tube top on the chest. Most dresses are tied with ribbons, and long ribbons hang down in front of them like two streamers. During this period, women still wore embroidered silk, but the silk was longer and narrower, with rich varieties and elegance.
Different from the costumes of the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Five Dynasties are narrower than those of the Tang Dynasty, but the length is obviously increased. According to the proportion of characters, it is inferred that the length of silk is about three to four meters. "In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the length of silk was about two meters, but it increased to three or four meters in the Five Dynasties. Compared with the Tang Dynasty, tapestries also became slender, about 30 cm below the knee. In addition, the position of the waist line of the skirt is lower, and the position of the skirt tie is lower than that of the Tang Dynasty, which is a significant change in their clothing.
During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore long tight skirts with high waist, generally above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their arms, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. Generally, the length is more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and coiled between the arms. It's beautiful to walk and jump from time to time.
Southern Tang women's skirts also have their own characteristics. When Han Xizai was an assistant minister in Zhongshu, he feasted day and night. After returning home, he drew a picture of Han Xizai's banquet from memory, depicting the scene of the banquet of Ji Ji's singer in the Five Dynasties. From this we can feel the characteristics of women's clothing at that time. Their hairstyles changed from the Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty. Their skirts are lower than those of the Tang Dynasty, their nepotism is longer and their silks are narrower than those of the Tang Dynasty.
In the picture of Han Xizhai's banquet, the women's skirt has fallen to the waist, the silks are getting narrower and longer, and the characters are more graceful and charming. Compared with the rammed earth map in Tang Dynasty, it can be seen that the waist position of women's skirts was above the chest and even close to the armpit position when viewed from the back.
Some strange things have developed into fashion, and their tastes have changed accordingly. For example, women bind their feet, but the source of energy began in the Five Dynasties. In the Five Dynasties, Emperor Li Houzhu of the Southern Tang Dynasty had a maid-in-waiting, whose feet were wrapped in silk and bent like a crescent moon. She danced on the six-foot-tall golden lotus and was loved by Li Houzhu. Since then, the wind of foot-binding has intensified, which has harmed women in China for thousands of years. "Golden Lotus" has become synonymous with women's feet. However, most women who do heavy manual labor often do not bind their feet.
Wudai men's wear
Decades of separatism indicates the unity of the country, and frequent political power makes the cultural heritage of clothing more solid. The Five Dynasties experienced more than 50 years from the first year of Kaiping in Hou Liang (AD 907) to the first year of Jiaotai in Southern Tang Dynasty (AD 958), and the costumes generally followed the Tang system. But there are also differences, that is, the change of hoe is obvious. The shogunate strictly recorded that "the five emperors wrapped their heads in the air and their feet were upturned." Quartet overlord, every innovation is fresh, or after improvement, it is reversal; Or like a round fan or banana leaf, folded in front. The pseudo-Shu Meng began with lacquer yarn, and the two corners of Hunan Ma Xifan were more than ten feet long, which were called Dragon Horn. If people touch it by mistake, they will have headaches all day. "Shantou's style was different in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and it experienced a transformational style in the Five Dynasties. After Li acceded to the throne in the late Tang Dynasty, there were dozens of royal towels, including Sheng Xiaoyao, Anle towel, toilet towel, Liangqing, Baoshan, Xiaolong, Taishou, Liuhe, Sheren and Eryi. During the Southern Tang Dynasty, Han Xizai made a kind of green gauze hat in the south of the Yangtze River, which was called "the light wind of the Korean army". This kind of towel is different from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and it is taller and pointy than the Dongpo towel in the Song Dynasty.
The characteristics of the five generations of men's first clothes are shown in the following figure. The summary of "Ancient Chinese Costumes" is: "The Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms were short, and the costumes generally followed the Tang system, but the initial clothes changed slightly." A man and another monk, Han Xizai, both wore a robe with a hoe at the Han Xizai banquet. The color of the robe was green, which seemed to be related to the system at that time. The hoe foot is slightly drooping, and there may be silk strings in the middle, which is elastic and is also a common style in the late Tang and Five Dynasties.
Shantou was a popular crown and hat shape between men and women in the Tang Dynasty, and it was also a common crown and hat shape in the Five Dynasties. From the initial piece of folk baotou cloth, it has gradually evolved into a perfect shape lined with fixed cap bones and feet, which has gone through thousands of years. The earliest steamed bread was wrapped in a towel, with two feet tied to the back of the head and hanging naturally like a belt, and the other two corners tied back to it for decoration. This is the original form of steamed bread. Later, it developed into a soft-wrapped Tang towel, which looked like two towel horns hanging down and fluttered naturally, also known as "soft-footed hoe". Later, the feet gradually became shorter, and the feet were inserted into the knot in a reverse curve, which was more common in the middle Tang Dynasty. Since the mid-Tang dynasty, the feet have different shapes, round or wide, like hard wings, slightly upturned, with silk thread in the middle, which has certain elasticity. It's called a hard hoe. In the late Tang dynasty, the shape of the towel became straight and pointed. By the end of the Tang Dynasty, steamed bread had gone beyond the category of towel handkerchiefs and became a fixed hat. During the Five Dynasties, the changes of hoes and towels were obvious, and hoes and hoes were widely popular. Most emperors of the Five Dynasties wrapped hoes for the sky, and their feet were upturned.