Traditional BC: 3500m, next to Miss Baishui's tomb.
C 1:4200: 4200m, the end of fishbone on the snow slope.
C2: It is 4,620 meters above sea level, behind the rocks near the heavy snow slope in the saddle.
C3: 5080 meters above sea level, on the steps.
Peak: several dangerous points for climbing the 5,445-meter Bogda Peak.
1, the traditional route from C 1 to C2 is a diagonal route, which is very long and difficult to walk. This time we climbed the ice waterfall at the bottom of the valley. The main danger comes from snow and rolling stones flowing on both sides of the mountain. It is unlikely that there will be a lot of rolling stones at the end of July, but there are many rolling stones, the big ones can be avoided and the small ones are hard to find, so the players should wear helmets.
2. The slope from C2 to C3 is very steep, and there is a cross section, so you must not miss it. We all have route ropes along the way, but when crossing the knot, we must fix it with a grab rope before changing elevators. Don't be afraid of trouble, be sure to climb the program strictly.
3. When approaching 5080, it is the most difficult and dangerous to climb an ice trough of 70-80 degrees and cross a large flat slate. We also use the thickest route rope in this section.
4. The route to C3 has a long stone gate with a steep slope. One person passes along the rope one by one. You can't miss it.
There is a snow trough in the rush hour, which is also steep. You should climb up with your front teeth.
In short, players should be skilled in using risers and descenders, and prevent the descenders from slipping. Once they do this, they will descend with iron ropes. When crossing the knot, you must do a good job of protection before opening the pipe, and you can't be lazy. Get ready.
For those who climb Bogda, the first thing is physical training, running 5000 meters every day. Although Bogda Peak is not high, if there is no abundant physical strength, even if there is technology, it is difficult to play. Then there is the training of ice and snow technology, including ice slope walking, ice wall climbing, snow slope and ice slope crosscutting, ice-rock mixed area climbing and so on.
For the team, we should first make a detailed mountaineering plan, prepare mountaineering materials according to the plan, and choose the base camp suitable for the team to climb according to the specific situation. The location of the base camp generally considers factors such as convenient transportation, flat terrain, shelter from the wind, avoiding rolling stones, and convenient water intake.
Bogda Peak Mountaineering Base Camp is usually selected in a basin near Sanchadaban, with an altitude of 3,540 meters. At that time, the mountaineering team of Kyoto University in Japan camped here, and the stone tablet of Miss Baishui killed by Kyoto team and the monument of three missing persons in Hong Kong 1998 were erected here. This camp is a traditional mountaineering base camp. To climb from this base camp, you must cross the big glacier on the north slope of Bofeng, about 5 kilometers. Miss Baishui fell into a crack in the ice while crossing the glacier, and was unfortunately killed. In this camp, the base camp can't track the whole climbing process after the team members leave, which is not conducive to command. In addition, due to the shielding effect of glaciers and mountain peaks, there are several communication dead ends, and sometimes the handheld walkie-talkie can't connect to Camp 2, which is 4700 meters, but the traffic in and out of this camp is more convenient. Another base camp is located near the glacier at the source of Sigong River, 3 kilometers away from Baishui Camp. This camp has a wide field of vision, and you can clearly see the whole mountaineering process, and there is no dead angle of communication, which is conducive to the command of the base camp. Starting from the base camp and traveling along the eastern edge of the glacier for about three hours, you can reach Camp 2, which is 4300 meters. 1998 Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association set up its base camp here when it first climbed Bogda Peak.
Familiar with the route
Bogda Peak mainly has four ridges: northeast ridge, southwest ridge, north ridge and southeast ridge. Except the northeast ridge with an average slope of 60 degrees, the slopes of other ridges are 70-80 degrees, and the north ridge is an avalanche-prone area. 1998 When climbing for the first time, Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association witnessed a catastrophic avalanche, which was shocking in power. From the base camp to Camp No.1 at 4300m, if you start from the base camp of China team in 1998 and travel along the eastern edge of the fan-shaped glacier on the northern slope of Bofeng, you can reach the upper end of the fan-shaped glacier in a very short time, close to the altitude of 4000m, and then the ice slope of 40-50 degrees. The slope is covered with a thick layer of snow, and the slope is about 300m long, so it is very difficult to travel. It takes 1 hour to reach 4300. This journey is relatively safe without crossing glaciers. If you start from the traditional base camp, you have to cross a 4-kilometer-long fan glacier. In June and July, Sichuan was covered with 20-30 cm thick snow. Although there are not many cracks in the glacier, a flag was planted where you passed. Miss Baishui of the Japanese team fell into the ice gap on this glacier. In addition, there are three glaciers on the glacier, and the ditch is deep and urgent. It takes about 4-5 hours to cross the river or bypass the source of the river in a narrow glacier, and then climb to camp 1. Above 4300 meters is a V-shaped valley, and on the east side of the valley is a ridge leading to 4800 meters. The ridge is covered with blade-like rocks, and on the right side of the valley is a mountain leading to the main peak. The bedrock on the top of the mountain is exposed, and the middle part is covered with snow and ice, which remains unchanged all the year round. The bottom of the valley is steep glacial valley, with dangerous terrain. The huge ice waterfall area extends upward to the saddle of 4700 meters, and the cracks in the ice waterfall are unfathomable. The saddle distance from 4300m to 4700m is less than1000m. Generally, the conservative route is to cut upward along the hillside on the east side of the V-shaped valley, and the oblique cutting slope is about 50 degrees. At the end of July, the snow on the ice melted and the slope was sparkling, making it very difficult to walk. If you are not careful, you will slide into the bottom of the valley and fall into the cracks in the ice. This road is too long, and a lot of ropes and ice cones are needed to build it. It is best for unskilled climbers not to form a group or take turns to protect them. It is best to pass under the premise of laying route ropes. Oblique cutting usually takes five or five hours. If you have excellent mountaineering skills and experience, you can also quickly cross the V-shaped valley bottom, but pay attention to the snow and rolling stones on both sides, as well as the jagged cracks in the ice waterfall area. It takes only three hours to climb to the bottom of the valley to reach Camp 2, which is 4,700 meters.
The average slope of routes above 4700 meters is 60 degrees. The section below 4900 meters is a soft snow slope, and when you step on it, you will reach the thigh root. Because the slope was too steep, the people who walked in front climbed it and brought a lot of snow. The impact of snow brought great danger to the climbers who followed. If you can't stand still, you are in danger of being threatened by snow. Near 4900 meters, there is an ice trough with a width of more than 30 meters and a slope of 70 degrees. It is difficult for climbers to cross it to the south. If you are not careful, you will slide below 4700 meters, or fall into the abyss on the south slope. This section must be built with ropes of more than 8 mm, from 4900 meters to 5080 meters, which is a mixed zone of rocks and ice and snow. In some places, the slope reaches 80-90 degrees, so it is extremely difficult to climb and there is a great possibility of falling. The whole section must be laid with 8 mm rope.
5080 meters is a small step, and you can see it clearly at the foot of the mountain. It's less than 30 square meters of snow eaves, and it's windy here. From 4700 meters to the top of the mountain, it is the only place to camp. From 4700 meters to 5080 meters, if the vertical height is less than 400 hours, you have to climb 9- 10 hours, which shows the difficulty of climbing. There are two roads from 5080 to the peak. One is to climb the snow slope and then climb along the rocky part of the northeast ridge. From here, this road has reached its peak for Wang Tienan and Dong Zhang. Very dangerous. The ridge leading to the peak stands on a rock wall with an average slope of 60-70 degrees and a local slope of 80-90 degrees. Only when you climb to the top of the ridge can you find three cliffs between the top of the ridge and the main peak. Each cliff is about 1.5 meters apart, and the top of the cliff is only the size of a step surface. Climbers need to have enough courage and courage to jump over these three cliffs in succession to reach the snow-capped mountain leading to the main peak. On August 4th, 1998, Wang Tienan and Dong Zhang of Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association climbed the main peak along this road for nine and a half hours, breaking the record that no one reached the summit in China, and at the same time, opening up a route that no one had ever walked along with their courage and loyalty. This route is very chaotic. It seems that the best route to the top is actually the most dangerous route. Three members of the Hong Kong Rock Climbing Association are likely to slip while climbing from here to the main peak and fall into the abyss of the south wall of Bogda Peak. The other route is to climb to the rock along the snow slope, and then turn right for dozens of meters. There is a snow trough leading to the main peak, and the steepest slope is about 70 degrees. You can climb the snow bag in front of the main peak along the snow trough, turn over the snow bag, and then climb south 150 meters to reach the main peak. This snow slot is the most dangerous part of this road. If you slip, it will be fatal, because if you fall 50 meters, you will fall to 660. 1On August 4th, 998, China people first set foot on Bogda Peak, the highest peak in the East Tianshan Mountains, with an altitude of 5,445 meters. This feat was accomplished by an amateur mountaineering team from Urumqi.
Bogda Peak is famous for its majestic posture and steep terrain. In the past, several foreign mountaineering teams climbed to the top, but none of the China mountaineering teams climbed to the top. This mountaineering team consisting of 12 people comes from all walks of life, including national cadres, teachers, entrepreneurs, journalists and doctors. On August 3, the mountaineering team was divided into four sections, each with three people, and began to attack the peak from Camp 3 at an altitude of 4,700 meters on the north slope. Captain Wang Tienan led the first regiment to the top of the assault camp at an altitude of 5080 meters and fell into snow and fog. The visibility was less than two meters, so he had to rest and prepare, and one of them quit because of physical exhaustion. At 8: 40 am on August 4, Wang led another team member to the summit. After eight hours of hard climbing, he finally reached the top. Subsequently, six members of the second, third and fourth sections of the mountaineering team also reached the summit.
It is understood that this mountaineering team made special preparations for this climb at 1997. Li Zhixin, vice chairman of the National Mountaineering Association, said that Bofeng is a typical technical peak, and it is a miracle in the history of mountaineering in China that the amateur mountaineering team can reach the top.
1In August, 1998, 8 members of the mountaineering team of Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association climbed to the top.
1In August, 1998, when the climbing team of the Hong Kong Rock Climbing Association climbed Bogda Peak, three people were missing.
1In July, 1999, Huazang Mountain Society searched for three missing Hong Kong players, and three of them reached the top.
In July 2000, an amateur mountaineering team in Beijing climbed to an altitude of 4700 meters.
In August of 200 1 year, the Japanese elderly mountaineering team climbed to the top of Bogda Weifeng at an altitude of 4300 meters.
In August 2002, three members of the Western Tourism Mountaineering Team of Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association reached the summit.
In August, 2003, 9 people from Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association reached the summit.
In August, 2004, the mountaineering team of Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association reached the summit at an altitude of 5080 meters.
In July 2005, an amateur mountaineering team in Beijing climbed to an altitude of 5080 meters.
In August, 2005, the Hong Kong mountaineering team reached an altitude of 4,700 meters.
In August 2005, Urumqi Mountaineering and Adventure Association 13 people reached the summit.
In August 2006, members of Peking University Eagle Society 17 reached the summit.