The most representative costumes in China are women's cheongsam and men's mandarin jackets. Cheongsam is a robe worn by Manchu women.
Origin: Deep clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Deep clothes were valued by people at that time from the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period to the Han Dynasty, and the robes of later generations may have something to do with this. In fact, deep clothes are very different from robes. The former is cut up and down, and the effect is equivalent to connecting the lower part of the coat with the upper part. Robes are neck and neck.
Second, historical evolution: official uniforms have been used in court costumes since the Han Dynasty. At the beginning, I was hand in hand, straight and long in take off your coat. The sleeves are fat and wide, the cuffs are miniature, and the elbows are curved, which is called "plum" or "ox beard". In ancient times, there was a saying that "Zhang Mei became a shadow". The styles of robes have been changed throughout the ages, and deep clothes were made in the Han Dynasty. Over time, it has become a fashion. Robe clothes therefore represent a kind of leisure life of upper-class people and intellectuals who are not engaged in production. The robes popular in ethnic minority areas or nomadic people are generally tight and narrow, which is conducive to riding and shooting or other intense activities. This kind of clothing style is mostly left-handed, with narrow sleeves and robe body. Historically, the Han people have adopted this tight-fitting robe style many times. King Wuling of Zhao's riding and shooting in Hu suit is a typical example. Hu fu in the Tang Dynasty was also popular for some time. Hu Fu was sought after by huzhuang, Hu Qi, Le Hu and other contemporaries in Kaiyuan and Tianbao years of Tang Dynasty, which can be regarded as a large-scale popular example of foreign culture and belongs to the "imported product" of Chang 'an Avenue in that year. During the period of unified governance of Liao, Jin, Yuan and Qing ethnic minority regimes, the fitted robes once dominated the costumes.
In the first year of Shunzhi (A.D. 1644), the ancestors of the Qing Dynasty led troops into Shanhaiguan, made Beijing their capital, and then unified the whole country. With the initial stability of the political power, he began to reform the clothing system forcibly, which set off a huge wave of dressing up. Strict laws are very important, and there is a saying that "no hair, no hair, no head". So far, almost all traditional crown clothes are worn. According to legend, for thousands of years, the clothing shapes from top to bottom were only preserved in the clothes worn by Han women at home. Celebrations need all kinds of robes, regardless of gender. Robes have various names, including court robes, dragon robes, embroidered robes and uniforms. From the word meaning, cheongsam generally refers to the robes worn by the flag bearer (both men and women), but only the robes worn by the women of the Eight Banners are related to the cheongsam of later generations and are used as court robes for dresses. Customs such as embroidered robes are no longer classified as "cheongsam". The rulers of Qing Dynasty emphasized Manchu riding and shooting, trying to maintain their inherent life customs and dress styles. On the one hand, they tried to assimilate the Han nationality with Manchu costumes, while at the same time forbidding Manchu and Mongolian women to imitate the Han nationality costumes. It can be seen from the bans issued many times during the years of Zhi Ding and Jiaqing that Manchu women were forbidden to imitate the costumes of Han women. In the late Qing Dynasty, some Han women imitated Manchu costumes.
In the late Qing dynasty, the robes worn by women in the flag were wide, straight and tough, and the clothes were ankle-long. The "gold ingot collar" is widely used, and the collar height covers the cheeks and touches the ears. The robes are embroidered with various patterns, including collars, sleeves and lapels. According to the data, there are many wide pipes. During the Xianfeng period, inlay rolling reached its peak, and some even the whole clothes were inlaid with lace. At this time, the Qing dynasty was teetering, domestic and foreign diplomacy was difficult, and national strength declined. Imperialism broke through the closed door of the Qing Dynasty. In order to save the nation and survive, the Westernization School of the Qing Dynasty put forward the general plan of "learning from middle school as a teacher and using western learning", sent a large number of international students to study abroad, and the army also changed to a new army. In China, the earliest students and soldiers appeared aerobics and exercises for western students. The import of military hats and dresses provides another frame of reference for judging beauty, which directly affects the change of social dress concept. Later, the cheongsam evolved into a new style that blended Chinese and western styles, and its changes influenced by the West can be said to be the beginning.
19 1 1 The sudden outbreak of the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the last feudal dynasty in China's history, cleared the political obstacles for the popularization of western-style clothing in China, and at the same time, put aside the traditional harsh ethics and weathering concepts and lifted all kinds of oranges in the clothing system. The free reform of clothing towards civilians and internationalization has come naturally. As a result, the heavy burden of cheongsam tradition was lifted. Due to the demise of the Manchu ruling regime, few people wore cheongsam at this time. Western-style Chinese clothing is bustling and complicated. The old women's robes were abandoned, and the new cheongsam began to take shape in troubled times.
Evolution: 1. The earliest cheongsam is a wide robe and big sleeves, and the long-standing corset and arm wrap for women in China have not changed for more than 300 years.
In the 1920s, blue cheongsam was the most popular among female students at that time, and later it became the representative dress of new women in China.
From the ballads of 1930s to 1940s, we can know that cheongsam has occupied an important position in the clothing industry in Shanghai at that time. It was the most glorious era of cheongsam. Because Hong Kong was open to trade at that time, many foreign-style costumes and cultural customs appeared in Shanghai, a commercial port, and cheongsam began to take on a new look. Slowly, cheongsam is not loose, but tends to show the graceful and exquisite figure of women through fit. But the colors still contain China culture, flowers, birds, totems and so on. People, women, students, workers, wives of political and business celebrities all wear cheongsam, which even becomes the standard dress in communication occasions.
Types and styles of cheongsam
There are single cheongsam, double cheongsam, cotton cheongsam, long-sleeved cheongsam, short-sleeved cheongsam, sleeveless cheongsam, high-necked cheongsam, short-necked cheongsam, collarless cheongsam, long cheongsam, short cheongsam and so on. In addition, you can wear sweaters, vests, suits and tops outside the cheongsam, which is flexible and diverse.
Cheongsam modeling
There are sleeves, sleeves, cardigans, oblique cardigans, big cardigans, pipa cardigans, etc. In terms of technological form, decorative techniques such as chiseling, inlaying and rolling are often used, and the chest is often decorated with colored embroidery, carved embroidery, sequins and round beads, which makes the appearance of cheongsam more gorgeous and pleasing to the eye. On the fabric, brocade, velvet, antique satin, jade satin and Xiangyun yarn can all be made into cheongsam.
Additional remarks
Cheongsam, as a kind of female dress, has a close relationship with the flag girl. The so-called flag girl refers to the female members of the flag family; The flag bearer is the name of the Qing dynasty for those who are incorporated into the Eight Banners. Manchu is the main part of the Eight Banners in Qing Dynasty, and other nationalities include Han and Mongolian. In addition to the imperial clan of Aisingiorro and Jueluo in Qing Dynasty, the Eight Banners also included Manchu, Mongolian and Han armies. Eight Banners Han Army and Eight Banners Mongolia are composed of Han nationality and Mongolian ancients respectively. In the early Qing Dynasty, there were 260,000 Han troops in the Eight Banners, that is, Manchuria in the Eight Banners. Banners are not only Manchu, but also Mongolian or Han Chinese. In this way, it is not accurate to define cheongsam as the clothing worn by Manchu people. Manchu is a minority living in the north, good at fishing and hunting, and nomadic everywhere. The robes they wear are open on all sides, with buckles and belts, which are convenient to take off and keep warm, which is very suitable for their lifestyle. Later, the Han and Mongolian ancients who joined them also adopted this kind of clothing. The eighth day of the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The standard-bearer's robes have changed and developed, which is different from that of early Manchuria. At this time, the robe worn by the flag bearer was the real predecessor of cheongsam, and it didn't become a modern cheongsam until the Republic of China, called new cheongsam or new cheongsam. The robes of the standard-bearer are obviously different from the two kinds of costumes of Han women in the early Qing Dynasty.
After the Manchu entered the customs, they became rulers, forcing the Han people to shave their hair and change clothes. However, the compulsory clothing assimilation policy not only failed to achieve the expected goal, but also aroused strong resistance from the Han people. In order to ease the contradiction, the Qing government had to adopt Jin Zhijun's "Ten Disobedience", a legacy of the Ming Dynasty. Among them, "men don't obey women", "life never dies", "advocating actress's disobedience" and "being an official" make marriage disobedient. Only in this way can Han women continue to wear costumes that show their national integrity, and costumes, wedding dresses and mourning clothes of the deceased are also allowed to protect Ming style. From the beginning of Qing Dynasty to the middle of Qing Dynasty, the costumes of women of Qi nationality and Han nationality showed distinct characteristics.
There are three main points to distinguish the costumes of flag women and Han women:
Look at the bun first. The flag girl combs the flag bun, that is, two ends, a fork head or a prefix, which is also called "shelf head" because it is inserted on the shelf to make the two corners flat. This kind of bun became more exaggerated and towering after Xianfeng, and evolved into a "Dara wing", which was called "flag head" by the Han people. Women in China comb their hair flat, and like to wear a black flannel hat to cover their eyebrows, as well as their hair styles.
Second, look at the skirt or the robe. Women in the Eight Banners wear robes, which is their most important and common clothing. They wear pants under robes, horseshoe sleeves and complicated decorations and accessories are added to robes. Women in the Eight Banners never wear skirts, even the gown in the royal robe of a lady is a skirt, and they rarely have the opportunity to wear it. Women in the Eight Banners generally wear formal dresses on important occasions, including royal dresses, auspicious dresses and travel clothes, while they wear casual clothes in daily life. Including the original body of cheongsam-shirt and shroud. The shirt has a round neck, a right slit, a straight lapel, five buttons, and a long garment covering the feet. Sleeves are divided into sleeve ends and sleeveless ends. The fabrics are mainly embroidered, woven and Ping Jin. They are all cut and often worn inside. You can wear a shirt alone in summer and velvet in autumn and winter. And the decoration is gorgeous and elegant. The wrapping and ornamentation are complex and exquisite, and they are also decorated with lace, flower tapestries and dog teeth. Mourning clothes are mostly worn on formal occasions. In the Biography of Heroes of Children written by Wen Kang in Qing Dynasty, there are many descriptions about the dress of the flag girl, such as: "I saw the lady wearing a fish-white butterfly shirt and a brocade embroidered with two or five flowers." What kind of pig's tooth tapestry, dog's tooth tapestry, and Hu inlay roll are all tapestries with 13 strands of gold thread inside and outside, which are wrapped with two-fold sleeves; With two short heads ... "
Contrary to the flag girl, Han women wear skirts and never wear robes. They still follow the old top-down system. Wear a skirt or trousers on it, and the upper and lower clothes are not connected. Wearing skirts is a major feature of Han women. There are many kinds of Han women's skirts in Qing Dynasty, including pleated skirts, phoenix-tailed skirts, yuet skirts, horse-faced skirts and dry dresses. There are skirt doors at the front and back of the skirt. There are also prostitutes or people who only wear pants without skirts when they are alone at home. "Legend of Heroes of Children" wrote: "Suddenly, a little daughter-in-law passed by, wearing a half-coat of Puxian silk with a shoulder, a pink lining and a West Lake color, without a skirt, revealing a pair of trousers with blue crepe legs; At the foot is a pair of red satin high-bottom bridge shoes; ..... "Han women wear red wedding dresses, jackets embroidered with azurite or scarlet, and robes with crests, following the old system.
Third, look at the shoes. Because the flag girl doesn't have the bad habit of foot binding, she wears high-soled and wide-flagged shoes. The wooden high sole is located in the middle of the sole. Because it looks like a flowerpot and horseshoe, it is also called "flowerpot sole" and "horseshoe sole". Women in China are all "three-inch golden lotus", wearing small and exquisite embroidered bow shoes with high soles behind them.
The overall style of cheongsam is obviously different from that of top and bottom skirt. First of all, Qinv's cheongsam is integrated up and down, with smooth lines, and there are many dividing lines on the tops and skirts of Han women, which is full of rhythm; Cheongsam is tight at the top and narrow at the bottom, revealing the waist, but the top and bottom skirt are unusually wide. It tries to hide the female curve under the big sleeves that take off the coat, which embodies the Neo-Confucianism of Song and Ming Dynasties. Cheongsam makes the wearer look slim more easily. Secondly, the aesthetic interest center of cheongsam is above, and the interest of tunic skirt is obviously below. Wearing high heels and robes that reach the ground will raise the waist line of the flag girl, lengthen the lower limbs and shift the center of gravity. However, knee-length tops and shirts reduce the waistline of Han women, lengthen the upper body and shift the center of gravity. Based on the differences of national culture, the flag bearer is top-heavy, and the fake bun is exaggerated and towering, but his feet are hidden under his robe. On the contrary, China culture is obsessed with "small steps and quick steps", but there is no problem of how to show skirts. A simple bun and a big straight dress are easier to match.
There are also many differences between cheongsam and big dress in specific shapes. For example, the front of the cheongsam is straight and the back is missing, and there are horseshoe sleeves on the dress, but the big dresses are mostly double-breasted; Wearing a collar wipe on the coat and shirt uses someone else's collar, while the cheongsam was originally collarless and only wore a scarf. It was not until the late Qing Dynasty that cheongsam stood on the collar, and it was not the collar. As far as the compatibility of decoration is concerned, cheongsam was originally quite simple, but after entering the customs, it gradually developed in a complicated direction, even far exceeding China women's dresses, including inlays, rolls, inlays, embroideries, swings, pastes, boards and nails (everything)
In the final analysis, the differences between the costumes of the women of the Banner and the women of the Han nationality reflect the differences between different cultures. Introverted China culture created the upper coat and the lower skirt, while extroverted Eight Banners culture produced the cheongsam. In the period when the two kinds of costumes are diametrically opposed, it is also the annual ratio of the collision between the two cultures. However, just as the conflicts between cultures will be gradually run-in and solved, the differences between Qi and Han costumes are not irreconcilable. After the rule of the Qing Dynasty was stabilized, the society tended to be stable and prosperous. Ethnic integration is carried out unconsciously. Even if it is banned, cheongsam can't help but become long-sleeved with wide sleeves, similar to robes. By the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the dress boundaries between flag girls and Han girls were not so clear, but in the later period, they learned from each other and used each other. The cheongsam is decorated with auspicious patterns and embroidery techniques of the Han nationality, and the sleeves are also decorated with dark colors similar to half arms. There are Han girls wearing long vests and flag girls wearing robes, which show that their feet are short. At the same time,
Head.
Before the Republic of China, cheongsam did not split. Compared with our impression of elegance,
The style is very rustic and can be called old-fashioned cheongsam. Especially the collar of cheongsam at that time.
It's strange, the high collar, all the way to the cheek, looks like an unruly hero. Old cheongsam.
It seems that only city dwellers and upper-class people are still trapped in an ideology.
Patents. It can now be concluded that the conservative strategy of these clothes is mainly to restrain women.
Physical exercise makes women look more dignified and virtuous.
At the beginning of the 20th century, under the influence of European style and beautiful rain, the Han nationality was relatively civilized and lowered its cheongsam collar.
What is particularly creative is that the bottom is unfolded, which can be called improved cheongsam.
The revolution of this kind of clothing won the general applause of men. The improvement of cheongsam began in the 1920s. The trumpet cuffs are narrowed, the sleeves are shortened from long to short, and the collar is like a lotus flower. The improved cheongsam is thinner and thinner, tightly wrapped around the waist, and the contour curve of the human body is outlined. The robe extends all the way to the thigh, revealing pants of the same material.
Later, he didn't even wear pants. Mr. Lu Xun once saw a prostitute waiting outside the door at night. The cheongsam she wore was waist-high. The coquettish woman is not as beautiful as "beauty", that is to say, the "amorous feelings" at that time is directly proportional to the height of the cheongsam. When the cheongsam is split to the waist, the amorous feelings will be "Ying Ying". Most people think that cheongsam should be matched with a rugged figure and so on.
The Qing Dynasty is an era with the greatest changes in the history of China's clothing. The Qing Dynasty was an era when Manchu and Chinese cultures blended, especially clothing culture. After entering China, it was also the non-Han Dynasty that kept the most primitive costume tradition. Emperor Qianlong was also a king who was overjoyed and admired a good name, but he could clearly realize that it was a set of political theories contained in the clothing system, not the appearance, that could spread throughout the country for a long time. The Qianlong dynasty formulated a detailed system of crown clothing. It also shows that future generations can "keep their robes and jackets forever". In the Qing dynasty, clothes, robes and mandarin jackets were originally worn by the rich, but later they were common all over the country. The cap worn on weekdays is a small cap with melon skin, and the color is black outside and red inside. The cheongsam worn by Manchu women was wide and big in the early days, but later it became a waist, and a dress was added outside the cheongsam.
Robes and mandarin jackets are clothes that men often wear in the Qing Dynasty.
A jacket is a short jacket worn outside a robe, only to the waist.
It was originally worn by northerners when riding horses. After Manchu unified China,
People who don't ride horses also wear mandarin jackets, which gradually became popular.
China is a multi-ethnic country, consisting of 56 ethnic groups. Every nation has its own long and splendid culture. The costume culture of this well-dressed country is jointly created by all ethnic groups. For thousands of years, all ethnic groups in China have learned from each other and blended with each other, creating many exquisite costumes. China national costume is famous for its bright colors, exquisite skills and unique style. The costumes and styles of all ethnic groups are quite different, which reflects the aesthetic taste of all ethnic groups. The costumes of northern ethnic minorities are rich and simple, vigorous and rough; Northwest minorities are bold, dignified and simple; The ethnic minorities in southwest China are beautiful and colorful. The geographical environment, customs, modes of production and artistic traditions of various ethnic groups are all reflected in their costumes. Throughout the 5,000-year history of China's clothing, despite the ever-changing, its styles, patterns, colors, fabrics and so on. They are all integrated with the national humanistic spirit, and costumes are a glorious chapter in recording Chinese national culture.
The history of China's clothing can be divided into three stages: before the Zhou Dynasty, it was an era of avoiding the cold; The formulation of Zhou Li, even in the late Qing Dynasty, belonged to the era of political representation. After the end of the imperial system, the new cultural characteristics of clothing were vague. The general principle of China's clothing system is that "the upper part can be combined with the lower part, and the lower part cannot be usurped", so the lower the social class, the smaller the choice of clothing colors. Therefore, successive governments have listed the colors that are not allowed to be used, and people from all walks of life can play within their scope of use. Although every dynasty has praise for forbidden colors, with the appearance of costumes, government regulations tend to follow the fashion, so sometimes forbidden colors mean that colors are popular. The reason why an era chooses a certain color as a popular dress color actually implies the political orientation of that era. Traditionally, clothing is a part of politics, so intellectuals attach importance to their likes and dislikes, which has always influenced the cultural orientation of the times. In fact, clothing culture, like other cultures, has accumulated countless treasures in the long river of tradition. When we abandon it and endure it again, we must explore its meaning, find out its true spirit, and distinguish whether we should abandon it for evil and why we should not follow it, so as to establish our modern China culture.