There are two kinds of hand-sewn pleats. One is to pick one or two threads from the back of the cloth, and then connect different points according to the design to form a three-dimensional pleat. This is a plaid pleat, also called a three-dimensional pleat. If it is named according to the fabric treatment form, it can be called fabric shrinkage, which is the research object of this paper. The other is to draw the cloth into regular or irregular pleats first, and then sew it with colored lines according to the design pattern while drawing the pleats, so as to sew various patterns or patterns on the pleated mountain. This research topic doesn't matter much, so I'll skip it. The following will study the related content of fabric shrinkage.
Fabric shrinkage needs to be prepared in advance. Firstly, draw a square grid on the back of the cloth according to the size of the design effect, and the size of the grid is determined according to the pleats formed. Then, through manual sewing and repeated operations, unexpected texture and appearance effects are achieved.
The connecting line to be stitched is designed to be square. Generally, connecting lines can be divided into three types: straight line connection, broken line connection and arc connection. Different connection modes, different arrangement modes and different combination modes of lines will make the appearance of wrinkles have different visual and tactile effects, so the design of connecting lines has great influence on the formation of wrinkles.
In the production process, one or two yarns are selected on the reverse side of the fabric according to the designed connecting line form, so as to shrink the fabric (see Figure 2-2). Pay attention to the choice of stitching color according to the fabric color, and it is advisable not to expose stitching on the front of the fabric.
According to the designed experimental scheme, natural fiber fabric and chemical fiber fabric are selected. Finally, satin, denim, silk, wool, crystal linen, chemical fiber, polyester fabric, chiffon, synthetic PU and other fabrics were selected for experiments, including organic fabrics and nonwovens. This experiment mainly studies the influence of fabric style on shrinkage technology, so this influence factor is not considered first.
Among them, seven kinds of fabrics, such as Youding, denim, wool, crystal linen, chemical fiber, polyester fabric and synthetic PU, were selected for the experiment in the first scheme. Scheme 2, denim and polyester fabrics are selected for experiments; In the third scheme, chemical fiber fabric is selected for experiment.
The final appearance effect of different shrinkage techniques is completely different. This time, four shapes are selected for practical experience, namely: twisted stripe, silver ingot pattern, brick pattern and wave pattern.
Plaid paper: Because of the texture of the fabric, it is difficult to draw a grid directly on the back of the fabric, so draw a grid on the paper first, and then find a ruler grid paper during the purchase process, which is more accurate than drawing on the paper by hand and can make the experiment more accurate; (Select the line with the size of 1cm on the grid paper as the basic line)
Pencil/ruler: a technique for drawing and reducing square paper with a pencil;
Cloth scissors/thread scissors: cloth scissors are used to cut cloth when preparing fabrics; Line scissors are used to cut lines when doing shrinkage experiments;
Needle and thread: Because of the different colors of fabrics, in order to make the front invisible as much as possible, several different colors of threads are prepared; In order to prevent the needles from leaving too many pinholes when they pierce the fabric again, several needles with small pinholes are prepared.
Marker pen: prepare a pen that will always fade, so that when marking the fabric, you don't need to worry about the problem that the color will not fade and affect the physical appearance; Considering that some fabrics are difficult to mark with fading pens, a silver marker pen is prepared.
Sketchpad /I-nail: Prepare a large sketchpad. When marking the fabric, the fabric and cloth can be nailed to the board together to prevent the fabric from slipping and make the marking more accurate.
Awl: When the fabric is thin and transparent, you can put the fabric directly on the grid paper; But when the cloth is too thick to see through, you can make a small hole in the contraction point of the square paper with an awl in advance, and then put the cloth under it, so that you can mark it directly with a marker through Xiaodong;
Paper jam/meat cutter/double-sided tape/stapler: After the shrinkage experiment is completed, you can use these tools to make effect samples, which can make it look more beautiful;
? In order to determine the size of fabric material needed to make fabric shrinkage samples, the effective shrinkage areas are 25cm * 25cm； respectively; 35cm * 35cm Test 45cm*45cm fabric. Through the test experiment, the analysis shows that the fabric with an effective shrinkage area of 25cm*25cm has a smaller finished product area, and the shrinkage effect is not very ideal when the length of the process connection line is long; For the fabric with effective shrinkage area of 35cm*35cm, the finished product area is larger than the former, and the shrinkage effect can be well seen, and the shrinkage process takes less time than the latter; Although the fabric with an effective shrinkage area of 45cm*45cm has a significant effect on the final product, it will take a lot of time in the shrinkage process if the technical connection is short. In order to compare the effects in the experiment, satin, polyester-cotton denim, woolen cloth, crystal hemp, chemical fiber, wrinkled chiffon and synthetic PU were selected.
Prepare pencils and rulers, and draw the selected experimental techniques on the square paper according to the pre-designed experimental scheme.
Cut the experimental fabric into a square of 45cm*45cm, iron it flat, and then mark it on the experimental fabric according to the drawing shrinkage technique and the situation of the fabric itself.
For transparent or translucent fabrics, put the fabrics directly on the grid paper, and then fix them on the drawing board with H-nails (if the fabrics have good drape or are easy to slide, more H-nails can be used to fix them), and then mark the experimental fabrics directly with a fading pen; If it is other cloth that is not suitable for marking on paper, you should make a small hole in the paper with an awl in advance, then put the cloth under the paper and fix it on the drawing board, and then mark it with a fading pen through the small hole.
(1) When shrink sewing, the resilience of some fabrics is not very good. In order not to leave pinholes on the fabric as far as possible, thin hand sewing needles with small pinholes are selected.
(2) In order to save the time of manual sewing operation, no more threads of any color are used for the fabric. In the specific operation process, white polyester thread is used for light-colored fabrics, and black thread is used for dark-colored fabrics;
(3) In the course of the experiment, it can be found that problems are easy to occur when operating on many fabrics, some fabrics will have yarn pulling, and some even have yarn breakage. Therefore, according to the density and tightness of different fabrics and yarn raw materials, some can choose more to ensure the firmness of the final product;
? (4) The size of nodes also has a great influence on the shrinkage rate. For some fabrics with poor resilience, a small hole will be left after needling, because if the node is too small, it is easy to pass through this small hole, which makes the shrinkage invalid, so the node must be large enough;
Twisted stripes are made of six kinds of fabrics: crystal linen, chemical fiber, denim cotton, satin, PU and woolen cloth. The reduction scheme of twisted stripes is shown in the following figure:
The following experiences were gained in the production process:
1, crystal linen: non-woven and non-knitted irregular textile fabric, which is not wrinkled, soft and needs no finishing after shrinking, and the finished product is soft and delicate;
2, chemical fiber: light, transparent, stiff woven fabric, not easy to mark and operate, the finishing effect after shrinking is not as good as crystal hemp;
3, thick satin: smooth satin fabric, thick texture, not easy to wrinkle, not easy to expose the needle when picking the yarn on the front, after completion, it needs proper post-treatment, and its style is different from crystal linen;
4, denim cotton: stiff plain cotton fabric, easy to wrinkle, easy to wrinkle, after finishing, the effect is different from other types, more distinctive, but at the same time have a different flavor;
5. Synthetic PU: It has a certain thickness and is easy to fold. It is not easy to expose the front stitches when picking yarns. Appropriate post-processing is needed after completion, and the front is not round.
6, woolen fabric: the fabric is thick, not easy to wrinkle and fold, and it does not need to be sorted after completion, and the style is rough and crazy;
Brick grain, as the name implies, is the effect of producing a brick after completion.
After checking the finishing effect, it can be found that slightly stiff denim is more suitable for brick shrinkage process than polyester fabric; When the sample turns to the connection point, it can be found that there will be another visual effect even if it is not ironed. The effect of denim cotton cloth and polyester fabric is equally obvious, so the connection point can also be set on the front of the fabric. This is the so-called one technique with two effects.
The silver ingot pattern has the same effect as the regularly arranged silver ingots after completion, and the contracted connecting lines are a group of symmetrical broken lines.
After the test of finishing effect, it can be found that the effect of polyester fabric is better than denim. The effect can be achieved directly without finishing, and the cowboy needs proper finishing after finishing because it is easy to fold. However, when the sample is turned to the back of the connection point, it can be found that the denim fabric forms a regularly arranged triangle, while the crystal linen can not form an obvious triangle because it is not easy to wrinkle, so when the connection point is set on the front of the fabric, the effect of denim cotton cloth will be better than that of crystal linen.
The wavy pattern is a straight line connection in the form of shrinking connecting lines, so the front of the finished fabric can get a parallel wavy effect. There is a certain gap between the positive effect and the expectation, but the effect of point-to-surface connection is better than the positive effect. In addition to the inconsistency of fabrics, the size and distance of connecting lines also account for many factors, so to get the ideal effect, we should not only imagine the space before shrinking, but also carry out many experiments.
The mat pattern is named after its appearance resembles the rattan mat pattern, and the fabric presents the appearance effect of oblique stacking. In the experiment, two connection methods with different slopes are adopted, and it is found that the 45-degree network laying method can obtain better modeling effect.
Sunflower pattern adopts smooth satin fabric; The needle method of broken needle connection is adopted, and the connecting line is in the form of arc connection. Before tightening, put a round button directly in the sewn fabric, and the button is smaller than the round stitch. The connection point is arranged on the back of the fabric. Because the technique is simple, the technique is painted directly on the reverse side of the fabric before shrinking.
Combination mode refers to the modeling effect formed by combining various connection methods into a larger cycle. The fabric with fine pleats was selected in the experiment. Using the combined needling method of 3 points and 2 points, the 3 points of the triangle are provoked and then pulled into a point, and then tied tightly; Lift both ends of the vertical line with a needle, pull it into a point, and then tie it tightly. The connection point is arranged on the back of the fabric. Because the pleated chiffon used in the fabric is not stiff enough, the effect of the shrunk finished product has not reached the expected value. If you put on a fabric with stronger texture, it can also be used on the dress.
Composite pattern refers to the shape interwoven by various connection methods. In the experiment, two fabrics with different fabric styles were selected to draw techniques on delicate and soft silk yarn fabrics, and the connecting lines were in the form of broken lines (the red part below); In the stretching technology of polyester fabric with good stiffness, the connecting line is in the form of straight line connection (blue part in the picture below); The upper and lower fabrics are combined by multi-needle method, and then shrunk and stitched. The needle spacing can be slightly larger, and finally it is manually arranged to the ideal state. The connection point is arranged on the polyester fabric. Because of the different connection forms, the two fabrics present different visual effects and have their own characteristics.