This book is one of the series of practical film and television production techniques. The book is divided into seven chapters, which mainly discusses the aesthetic characteristics of film and television makeup plastic arts, the relationship between facial anatomy and makeup, the relationship between chromatics, optics and makeup modeling, and the art of modeling makeup. I hope this book will help China film and television producers, especially young people who have just entered the field of film and television production; It has played a certain role in promoting the prosperity and development of film and television art in China. Author brief introduction Sun Hongkui, male, born in 1932, is a national first-class artist in Songyuan City, Jilin Province. 1948 was admitted to the fourth training course of Northeast Film Studio, 1950 was transferred to Beijing Film Studio, and 1992 retired. He used to be the director of the makeup Committee of China Film and Television Technology Society, and a visiting professor at Beijing Film Academy and Central Academy of Drama. Now he is a consultant of China Film and Television Technology Society and honorary director of makeup committee. In his 60-year career in film art, he has achieved many "firsts"; Participate in the makeup modeling of the first feature film "Biography of luliang heroes" of Beijing Film Studio; Participate in the makeup modeling of China's first color feature film "Blessing"; As the first large-scale music and dance epic "Dongfanghong" in China, the actor's overall modeling design; As the makeup design of the first modern Peking Opera film "Taking Tiger Mountain by Outwit"; He is the first film makeup expert sent by the Central Ministry of Culture to give lectures abroad ... The films "Blessing", "A Good Woman" and "Songs of the Yellow River" who participated in makeup modeling won many international film awards, and the film "Woman in Yangmen" won the first Hundred Flowers Award. 1957 was appointed by the Ministry of Culture to participate in the character design of Vietnam's first film "Moving the Sea", and 1963 won the Ho Chi Minh Labor Medal in Vietnam. He was awarded "New China Film Makeup Pioneer" and "Makeup Lifetime Award" by China Film and Television Technology Society. In addition to makeup modeling, she also plays roles in film and television works such as Song of Youth, Ballad of the Yellow River, Romantic Female Spy, Classic Car of Father and Son, TV series Ermayina, Song of the West, Oriental Dragon, Macau Fengyun and so on. He has published monographs such as Film Makeup and Plastic Makeup Art, and published many papers in magazines such as Film Art. The paper "Aesthetic Characteristics of Film and Television Makeup Modeling" won the first prize of excellent papers of the 8th China Film and Television Technology Society. Chapter I Introduction of Film and Television Makeup Modeling I, Classification and Features of Makeup Modeling II, Aesthetic Features of Film and Television Makeup Modeling Art III, Types of Makeup Modeling II, Relationship between Facial Anatomy and Makeup Modeling I, Anatomical Study of Head Skeleton Structure by Makeup Modelers II, Anatomy of Facial Muscles and Movement Rules of Facial Muscles III, Aesthetic Features of Facial Features III, Relationship between Chromatology, Optics and Makeup Modeling I, Understanding of Light and Color II. The role of light and color in makeup modeling 3. The illusion of color contrast in makeup modeling 4. Hair and makeup 1. Overview of hair makeup II. The production and application of headdress III. Manufacture and application of false eyebrows. Manufacture and application of false eyelashes. Manufacture and application of fake beard. The art of plastic makeup 1. Production and application of plastic sludge II. Forming technology and application of cotton cellulose 3. Technology and application of making various plastic stickers with natural latex Ⅳ. * * * Production and Application of Polymers V. Design of Special Effects Chapter VI Examples of Makeup Modeling I. Design of Xianglinsao in the movie "Blessing II". Character modeling in the movie Storm III. The Design of Du Liniang in the Opera Movie Nightmare 4. Conceptualization of makeup modeling in the movie "The Dead Visit the Living" V. Dressing modeling in the music and dance epic "Dongfanghong" VI. The costume of the new Xia Feng VII. The classic modeling of old artists Chapter VII The importance of accumulating information I. Different styles of life II. Japanese female hairstyle appendix 1. Sun Hongkui's Dress-up Art Appendix II. Teacher's postscript notes. The first chapter of the illustration is an introduction to Zhou Chengren's film makeup modeling (1). In the first section of the fourth chapter, he said, "In recent years, some film and television screens have often used' makeup'. In fact, this is not right. " In the August issue of 1988, there is a short article named "Make-up ≠ Make-up" signed by Jing Tong. Wen Ri: "Plastic surgery is not purely technical labor, but a creative activity to complete artistic modeling. Film makeup artists provide actors with a facial modeling close to the role and create a brand-new artistic life-screen image. Subtitles in news and film and television dramas all use' makeup' instead of' outfit'. For a long time,' make-up' has been mistaken for' make-up' by fallacies. In order to respect the artistic creation of makeup artists, please pay attention to colleagues in the film and television industry: makeup ≠ makeup. " It is true that a word's mistake is of no nature. The word "makeup" refers to women's gfd, and a variant of "makeup" is "grain", from rice to Guang Yun: "shame, whitewash." In ancient times, women used rice flour to whitewash their faces. Wei Zhuang's poem "Huanxisha" said: "On the cold food day in Xiao Qing, the willow balls are slanting between the flowers, and the blinds are straight out in front of the painting hall." "Midnight Wu Ge Day" by Li Bai: "Stretching out her white hand through the green branches, her rosy robe was dyed in the golden sunshine." In Du Fu's Divorce, there is a saying called "Luo Luo Bi She, he washes his own red makeup." There are also some sentences in Dunhuang Quzi Ci, such as "Red makeup cries for Hejun" and "Red makeup follows Luopu and green temples chase duckweed". This red makeup is made of rouge. Rouge was called "red powder" in the Tang Dynasty. The poem "People", which claims to be Yi, says: "Outsiders laugh when they can't see it, so take care of the fleeting makeup." The second part of Chen Houzhu's "Three Women's Words" has "Little Women's Initial Makeup, Eyebrows Hook the Moon." The original meaning of "packaging" refers to parcels and bags. Shuowen explains "loading": "wrapping." That is, what later generations called luggage. It can be seen that at the beginning of coinage, the words "make-up" and "outfit" had different synonyms. Generally speaking, the use of "Zhuang" is wider. It can be used not only on people, but also on objects. "Makeup" focuses on people. For example, "make-up" can also be written as "make-up" to make the appearance beautiful, but "make-up" can not be used by actors to modify the appearance, so as to play a role. Therefore, using "make-up" instead of "dressing" is really a different word! "Costume" refers to the costumes of actors during performances. Restoring "clothing" instead of "make-up" is worthy of the name and will not distort the facts because of the same pronunciation. At that time, Jing Tong's article refers to the subtitles appearing in film and television dramas. In fact, in recent years, not only movie subtitles, including TV dramas and stage performances, but also some newspapers and media can't distinguish the exact concepts and different connotations of "makeup" and "outfit". In other words, women's daily gfd or gfd whose beauty salon is a customer should use the word "makeup"; Decorative "clothes" should be used in character modeling in drama, film, television and various stage performances, rather than "makeup" for dressing up. These two words represent different contents, and also accurately clarify that life beauty makeup and cultural performance clothing have different uses and categories. First, the classification and characteristics of makeup makeup, the concept of ordinary people, is just a little rouge and powder in women's daily life. In fact, there are different categories of makeup for the purpose of personal appearance modification, called life beauty; According to the makeup of personality modeling in literary and artistic works, it is called artistic modeling. These two kinds of cosmetics with different functions and properties have different standards and characteristics. (1) Life Beauty Cosmetics 1. Beautify the appearance through makeup technology, use makeup materials that are harmless to the skin, combine the characteristics of customers' (own) faces, and use the simplest makeup techniques to make full use of their strengths and avoid their weaknesses, so as to achieve the aesthetic purpose of beautifying the face and making up for the shortcomings. 2. Enhance self-confidence With the increase of social interaction, moderate makeup will give people a feeling of full of energy and self-confidence. Unclear clothes and dirty appearance will make the other party lose the trust it deserves. 3. Life beauty should respect the wishes of customers. The direct target of life beauty cosmetics is customers. Therefore, before formal makeup, we must first listen to customers' opinions and try our best to meet customers' aesthetic needs without violating hygiene requirements and operating procedures. Of course, in this process, we should consciously and gradually guide the improvement of customers' aesthetic level. (2) artistic modeling makeup artistic modeling makeup, also known as character modeling, is mainly for the purpose of beauty. According to the needs of specific characters and personalities in literary and artistic works, as well as the actual situation of actors themselves, makeup artists adopt corresponding modeling methods, and sometimes they need to make them look old, even ugly, or even become monsters or fairies. Sometimes it is necessary to make them look young and beautiful. Therefore, the mastery and application of cosmetic means is many times more complicated than life beauty makeup. Artistic makeup can be divided into two categories: 1. Stage costumes, including dramas, operas, ballets, operas, Peking Opera and various local operas, all belong to stage makeup. Because of the special form of stage art, we must exaggerate makeup modeling to meet the needs of stage space and the distance between audience and stage actors, otherwise we will not be able to fully obtain the modeling effect of stage art. Film and television makeup When studying stage art, film and television makeup artists will inevitably fail in makeup modeling if they can't fully understand the different characteristics between stage art and film and television art and simply copy the successful experience of stage makeup to film and television makeup intact. On this issue, many makeup artists will gain more than one experience and lesson, which will further urge film and television makeup artists to study and discuss the characteristics of stage makeup and film and television makeup, and further improve the creative level of makeup art in film and television dramas. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of film and television makeup modeling art film and television makeup modeling is an important part of comprehensive film and television art creation; It is one of the main factors that constitute the personality characteristics of the characters in a film and television drama. Makeup artists are the creators of characters' appearances in film and television dramas. According to the characteristics of film and television art creation, the creative activities of makeup artists have certain limitations, and the theme and content of creation must first be determined by the script provided by the screenwriter. Therefore, first of all, based on the literary script, we should carefully study the theme of the script, as well as the characteristics of the characters depicted in the script, such as the background of the times, social class, national characteristics, gender, age, health status, etc., which will help makeup artists form their ideas for future screen characters. In view of the aesthetic characteristics of film makeup art, the image conception of makeup artists can not be limited to the description of literary images. Literati use vivid language to describe people with different personality characteristics. Sometimes, in order to make readers have vivid inner images in their minds, the author does not hesitate to use a certain degree of exaggerated description when describing the character characteristics. For example, describe a person's image as "face is like a full moon", "eyebrows are like lying silkworms", "nose is like fear" and "maw". Proper exaggeration in the description of words can stimulate readers' inner visual feelings and achieve the purpose of artistic rendering. However, such literary image description is obviously not suitable for the visual image intuition and real characteristics of film cosmetic plastic arts. According to the aesthetic characteristics of film makeup art, makeup artists invariably copy exaggerated characters in literary works to actors' faces, such as drawing a pair of silkworm eyebrows, a pig's bile nose and a big mouth on the actors' faces, and then projecting them onto the screen through close-ups taken by cameras, and the visual effect can be imagined. Whether a makeup artist is good at transforming the writer's inner image into visual artistic modeling image is the touchstone to measure the makeup artist's cultural accomplishment and artistic attainments. Makeup artists are engaged in plastic arts, and only skilled plastic skills are far from enough. It is very necessary to improve the cultural quality in an all-round way and further change the knowledge structure. As a makeup artist who shoulders the heavy responsibility of role modeling design in film and television dramas, it is difficult to comprehensively analyze and accurately understand the profound connotation revealed by literary scripts without the level of cultural quality suitable for his job. In the past, the method of training talents by mentoring has long failed to keep up with the rapid development of modern film and television art. Over the years, the Film Academy has trained a large number of professionals in editing, directing, performance, photography, beauty, recording and production, but it has not paid enough attention to the aesthetic role of plastic surgery in film creation. It is manifested in the review, film publicity and comments after the completion of film and television dramas. And it is rare to see the words of critics in any movie. Due to lax requirements, the quality of makeup personnel is uneven. In this way, if we don't pay attention to the improvement of the quality of makeup personnel and the change of knowledge structure, it will inevitably reduce the artistry of film makeup modeling. The plastic arts of makeup artists must be integrated with the director's overall conception. The director is the chief designer who completes the artistic composition of a film. Tone, style, character image, sound effect, performance interest and so on should be integrated by the director. He is like a conductor of a band. The sound quality, rhythm and so on of each instrument. All these must achieve harmony and unity in its artistic melody. Make-up modeling in film and television creation is like an instrument in a band. Pronunciation must be based on the conductor's melody, so as to play beautiful and harmonious music with other instruments.

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