There have been three opinions about the name of congou:
The first comes from the name of tea. It is said that the villagers eat tea, mainly Wuyi people, followed by Northeast China, Gongfu, Central Asia, and then Anxi. Here, congou tea is one of many varieties of Wuyi rock tea, and any well-made rock tea can be called congou tea. The earliest written records can be found in the following Qing Dynasty documents: In the 12th year of Yongzheng (1734), Lu Yancan, the magistrate of Chong 'an County, Fujian Province, wrote the sequel to Tea Classics, Volume II, Tea Out, which was quoted as Notes, saying, "Wuyi tea is rock tea on the mountain, and Zhou tea is beside the water. Rock tea is the best, followed by mainland tea The northern mountain of Yancha is the best, followed by the southern mountain. These two mountains are also named after the rocks they produce, and the best one is called' Kung Fu Tea'. There are' races' on the works, named after trees, and each continent is only two, which is rare. "
In the eighteenth year of Qianlong (1753), Jing Liu's "A Moment of Leisure Collection" also said:
"In rock tea, the tallest person is the old tree, the second is the race, the second is the race, the third is the fragrance of flowers, and the fourth is the fragrant tea ..."
The congou tea recorded in the above two paragraphs refers to that kind of tea, which is named after its fine workmanship.
Then, among the many teas in China, why is rock tea the only one called "congou"? Lu Yancan quoted the tea theory written by Wang Caotang in the fifty-sixth year of Kangxi (17 17) in Continued Tea Classic, and introduced the manufacturing technology of Wuyi rock tea in detail.
"After picking the tea, spread it evenly with bamboo baskets and put it on windy days. Wait until the cyan is gradually put away, then stir-fry and bake. ..... Only Wuyi Rock is fried and baked. Ripe, half green and half red. The green ones are fried and the red ones are baked. Spread the tea leaves after picking, and then spread them. The more fried, the more fragrant they are. It's out of date, out of date. Stir-fry and bake, then pick up the branches of the old leaves and make them into a color. Shi Chaoquan's poems' such as Mesff Lansing' and' leisure, dexterity and meticulous brushwork' are completely described. "
Visible in the process of making Wuyi rock tea, spent a lot of time and energy, so Shi Chao was described as "closed door, sensitive hands". This is why Wuyi Rock Tea was named "Kung Fu Tea".
Wuyi rock tea is called "Kung Fu tea" because of its excellent production, and it has become a famous tea in Ming Dynasty, which is deeply favored not only at home but also abroad. Rock tea was exported to Europe at the beginning of17th century. In the Qing Dynasty, the demand for rock tea was in short supply, and the technology of rock tea was also widely circulated. During the Jiaqing period, the semi-fermented tea with the same production technology as rock tea used the name of congou, named congou.
Yuan Mei, a man of the Qing Dynasty, talked about the process of drinking Wuyi tea in Eating with the Country: "Wuyi tea" and said: "Yu Xiang doesn't like Wuyi tea and thinks it is as bitter as drinking medicine." Later, I felt that "the fragrance is fragrant and the tip of the tongue is sweet", "it is soothing and just right" and "Wuyi enjoys a world reputation, which is really unsatisfactory". This shows the charm of Wuyi tea.
The second view is that congou tea is named after its exquisite tea set and unique workmanship.
The earliest written records can be found in Yu Jiao's Miscellaneous Works of DreamWorks, Volume 10, Jia Chaoyue Peak Gongfu Tea in Qing Dynasty:
"Kung fu tea, the method of cooking. This is Lu Yu's tea classics, and the utensils are more exquisite. The stove is shaped like a truncated tube, about one foot, two to three inches high, and made of fine white mud. The best pot is made in Yixing kiln. It has a round body, a flat belly and a crank mouth. The largest pot can receive half a liter. Most of the cups and plates are colored porcelain, and the landscape figures are written inside and outside, which is extremely exquisite and not modern. However, without ambition, when it was made can't stand the test. One pot and one plate per furnace, but the number of cups depends on the number of guests. The cup is so small that it looks like a full moon. In addition, there are tiles, brown mats, paper fans and bamboo clips, all of which are simple and elegant. Pots, plates and cups, the old ones are the best, as expensive as arch walls, which are not easy to get on ships. First store the spring water in a pot, fry it with fine charcoal until it boils, and then pour Fujian tea into the pot to make it; Cover it and pour it again; Then pour it out and sip it carefully, the fragrance is more fragrant and thicker, and it is better than chewing plum blossoms; People who don't need to hit with their thumbs can get their taste. I saw Wanhua's master eating tea on the Chengjiang Moon Boat:' Come back from the banquet, the moon is full, undress and sit alone; The charming girl in Zuo Jia is very romantic, so she saved me the trouble of cooking chicken balls. "Xiaoding noisy noisy, account window is quiet at night. A cup of fine snow is clear, and I don't envy Meng Shan's living fire. " Shucha won't last long, but only Wuyi is still on board today. An excellent person needs two white cymbals per catty. You can imagine how extravagant it is to eat on a ship with six tents. "'
In this passage, "congou" was first used as the name of tea tasting program in various documents. It recorded the tea drinking custom at that time in detail, among which exquisite tea-making utensils were the most concerned: silver stove, casserole, Yixing teapot, small flower porcelain teacup, tea tray, brown pad for teapot, paper fan for fanning fire and bamboo clip for charcoal. Tea is superior to Wuyi tea, and the processes of making tea, brewing, pouring cans, screening tea and tasting tea are also mentioned. In addition, he also expounded the three main connotations of "congou": the cultivation of tea people, the cultivation of tea art and the free time of brewing. The greatest contribution of Yu Jiao's Kung Fu Tea lies in that it not only points out that Chaozhou tea-making method is based on Lu Yu's Tea Classic, but also summarizes many characteristics of this method with the concept of "Kung Fu Tea" for the first time, which is the most important stroke in the history of Kung Fu tea.
In fact, Yuan Mei's "Food List with the Country" talks about congou tea for the first time from utensils and brewing methods. He mentioned in the article: "The cup is as small as a walnut and the pot is as small as a citron. Every time I pour it, there is not one or two. I can't bear to swallow my mouth, smell its fragrance first, then taste it, chew slowly and be considerate. " ..... and can drop to three times, its taste is still unfinished. "Brew Wuyi tea in a small cup and pot, smell its fragrance, chew slowly, and then savor it. These tea-making procedures and tea-tasting methods, if analyzed and judged, are tantamount to congou, but Yuan Mei did not mention the name "congou" in his article.
In addition, at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Tang Yan's "Tian Zhi Owen Juan Ba Jian Cha Shuo" was written after "Three Contradictions" and "Tea Classic". He divided the whole process of making tea into five parts: selecting tea, selecting water to decoct and drink, and described it in detail. Although the name "congou" is not mentioned, it is actually congou.
The third view is that "Kung Fu Rong" is named after both tea species and tea art.
It was the Qing people who put forward this statement. In the History of Butterfly Steps, he mentioned that "Fujian Kung Fu tea is the most prosperous, and tea comes out of Wuyi Mountain", and also mentioned the methods of making tea and drinking tea. This statement not only talks about the types of congou tea, but also talks about Kung Fu tea art.
Although the above three statements have their own emphasis, they are all inseparable from the word "time". Whether it comes from tea name or tea art, it embodies the characteristics of congou tea: you must have free time, spend some energy and adopt exquisite methods.
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There are many here. You can synthesize them.