First, an overview of ballet costumes
Ballet originated in Italy and developed in France. It refers to a large-scale performance that combines song, dance and drama. The original ballet only had actors, and the costumes were also collectively called men's ballet costumes. After going through various periods, toe dancing subverted the tradition of ballet, and actresses gradually replaced actors as the main performers of ballet, so women's ballet costumes reached unprecedented prosperity.
(a) the court ballet period.
Ballets in the court ballet period were all organized by the court, and excellent dancers were all members of the French royal family. Ballet costumes in this period have a strong "baroque" style, and exaggerated and luxurious costumes and cumbersome accessories are the main characteristics of this period. In early days, dancers always wore funny and exaggerated leather masks. /kloc-In the 8th century, ballet opened its doors to women, and leather masks began to die out.
(2) Romantic ballet period.
Romantic ballet began after the French Revolution. Ballet costumes in this period laid a classic style that is still in use today. For example, in "Fairy", the dance dress worn by Mary Tarioni premiered. Its upper body is a corset with an open collar, short and exaggerated bubble sleeves and a small flower on its chest. The skirt of the lower body is like an upside-down half-blooming flower, extending all the way above the ankle and below the knee, with a little wings made of white gauze behind it. The whole dance skirt is made of layers of pure white silk and tulle, which is soft and soft.
The dance skirt in Swan Lake adopts the bionic principle, and the skirt length is improved to the extreme, and it is scattered around at the same time. It consists of four or five layers of silk and nylon folds, like the snow-white flapping wings of a swan. The skirt is connected with a suspender vest corresponding to the actor's body size, and the curly hair is wearing a white feather headdress. This costume is stipulated as the standard costume for ballet.
(3) Modern ballet period.
19 12 appeared on the ballet stage in the afternoon of the faun. The goddess wearing a tight-fitting coat with colored spots, the goddess of agriculture and animal husbandry with two horns on her head and the loose tulle coat with pink eyeliner made the audience shine, causing an uproar, and the "Sacrifice of Spring" which was staged soon afterwards attracted heated debate. The costume of this ballet is designed by Luo ilych, which has a distinct Russian style and a strong original expressionist color. The actors are all dressed in traditional Russian costumes, while during the sacrificial dance, the actors are all dressed in loose black trousers and bare-chested, while the actresses are wearing transparent silk suspenders. These controversial ballet works have made a new breakthrough in ballet costumes.
Second, the classification of ballet costumes
(1) ballet training suit.
Tights and tights are basic training clothes. In classical ballet, women usually wear black tights and pink tights. Nowadays, there are many styles of women's pantyhose, including suspenders, sleeveless, short sleeves, 3/4 sleeves, long sleeves, deep U and shallow U on the back, V-neck, some with a little wrinkle on the chest, and a high-necked long-sleeved pantyhose, which can be worn when it needs a little warmth. There are various colors, red, blue and purple are the most common. Generally, cotton is the main fabric, which absorbs sweat but is not durable. Nylon has great elasticity, but its sweat absorption ability is poor. There is also velvet on the upper body and cotton on the lower body, but the price is more expensive.
Female dancers generally don't wear tights, but only dance socks and semi-veil. Dancing socks are generally made of nylon, and one kind is dancing socks with holes in the soles, which can alleviate the pain of footsteps. Leggings are some professional dance clothes, the length is from waist to ankle. There is also a head-to-toe tights worn with shoes. Fishing net socks are very sexy and are worn when you tap dance. There are generally four kinds of gauze skirts, one is ultra-short gauze skirt, the other is gauze skirt that reaches the knee, the other is gauze skirt that is short before and long after, and the other is printed gauze skirt that reaches the calf.
Men's tights include one-piece sleeveless legless elastic tights, and the clothes are connected with pantyhose. One is a belt-shaped upper body, the other is a vest, which is mainly black and white, and the other is a tights, which is mainly gray. Men's bicycle pants made of cotton or elastic fiber are also common training clothes worn by actors.
(2) ballet costumes.
Ballet skirt is the standard dance skirt of ballet. Skirts are four or five layers of silk or nylon folds, some are four or five layers of hard yarn, and then decorated with a layer of silk. The skirt is attached to the vest of the corresponding size. The ballet skirt in Tarion period was very long, only about 30 cm from the ground, and then gradually shortened, 1880 exposed the whole leg. The pattern decoration on the skirt changes according to the background of ballet.
(3) Accessories such as ballet shoes.
Pointed shoes are a standard ballet shoes. The front of pointed shoes is glued and compacted layer by layer to form a hard and small plane; A rubber shoe board is arranged in the sole and a leather sole is arranged outside the sole. The ballet dancer stands with the help of the shoe board and fixes the center of gravity with the facet of the toe. Each pair of pointed shoes is made by hand, and the materials for making shoes are satin, burlap, paste and so on. At the same time, in order to adapt to the feet of different heights, there are three models: "Waganova", "Elita" and "Fuejie", and each model is divided into 17 size. In addition, there are five types of obesity in each size.
The accessories of ballet shoes include leggings, top pads, toe pads, gel pads, toe pads, ribbons, rubber bands, etc. They are mainly used to protect dancers' feet, and dancing with toes is more elegant.
Thirdly, the influence of ballet costume on the current fashion trend.
As early as the romantic ballet period, ballet costumes began to lead the fashion trend. For example, Tarioni's "fairy" hairstyle and headdress style in Fairy were imitated by women in Paris, and fashion designers introduced the popular "fairy hat" according to her style. Nowadays, under the premise of being loyal to the historical background, the costumes in ballet are designed as a beautiful and fashionable fashion show, in which the fashion trends are predicted with a forward-looking vision and reflected in themselves to start leading the fashion trends. In Kyle Polo, Pierre Cardin designed ballet costumes with exaggerated shoulders, convergent hem, architectural modeling and geometric patterns, among which the design elements became one of the fashion elements of popular clothes.
Ballet clothes not only keep pace with the times, but also designers get new inspiration from it and create many new "ballet style" clothes. 1999 Donna Karan introduced the deconstructive ballet skirt, with layers of transparent chiffon bubble-like double skirt, spherical skirt, pleated hem, pleated hem and torn hem. The interpretation of ballet skirt is in the ascendant. The beautiful skirts designed by Alexander McQueen in the autumn and winter conference in 2008 and the complicated tulle dance skirts designed by ballerinas are fashionable and unique. Ralph Lauren's transformation of the upper body of the dance skirt and Zac Posen's application of black velvet and pink skirt once again prove the charm of ballet.
Ballet shoes have always been one of the inspiration sources for designers, especially in recent years, shoes inspired by ballet shoes are undoubtedly the most classic, such as round toe shoes and flat shoes, which are elegant and comfortable to wear and can be matched with any clothing. At the same time, the strap of ballet shoes is also one of the means that designers often use. The criss-crossing straps of various materials on shoes will bring different feelings and styles.