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Ask Wang Zengqi for the full text of Soaking in Teahouses ~
"Soaking in a teahouse" is a unique language for students in United College. There seems to be no such thing in the local area. The locals only say "sit in the teahouse". "Bubble" is a Beijing dialect. It is difficult to explain its meaning accurately. Just to explain, I can only say that I have been immersed in it for a long time, soaking in it like kimchi. "Pickled mushrooms" and "poor soaking" have long-lasting meanings. Students in Beijing brought the word "bubble" from Beijing to Kunming, and combined it with real life to create a new vocabulary. "Soaking in a teahouse" means sitting in a teahouse for a long time. The local "sitting in a teahouse" also means a long time. When you go to a teahouse, you should sit down first and then drink tea (called tea in Yunnan). However, the students of the general association often sit in the teahouse for much longer than the locals, so it is called it.

"bubble"

There is a classmate named Lu, who is a freak. He once walked halfway across China. This man is really the champion of soaking in teahouses. For a time, he spent all day in a familiar teahouse. His toiletries are in this teahouse. Go to the teahouse to wash your face and brush your teeth, then sit down, make a bowl of tea, eat two biscuits and read a book. Until noon, I got up and went out for lunch. After dinner, have another bowl of tea until dinner. After dinner, there was another bowl. I didn't go back to the dormitory to sleep with a thick book until the street was dim.

I don't know how many kinds of teahouses there are in Kunming. Generally speaking, it can only be divided into two categories, one is a big teahouse and the other is a small teahouse.

There used to be a big teahouse on Zhengyi Road, with dozens of tables upstairs and downstairs. They are all square tables painted with purple water chestnuts, which are very bright. Because in busy areas, people are always crowded and noisy. There is an eye-catching note on all the pillars: "Don't talk about state affairs". Fortune tellers often come in, holding a six-inch high cardboard with the warlock's name written on it (only by name, because there is often no surname, so you can't call it "name"; You can't call him "Dharma Name" or "Stage Name" because he didn't become a monk. He walked around the coffee table with a piece of paper in one hand, which said "No money for palm reading"! "Palm reading is free"-this medium in his hand is used to mark palm prints when reading palms.

This big teahouse sometimes sings drums. This kind of drum is sung by actors or fans. I like the word drum very much. It seems that the actors and fans who sing drum sets are unpaid. It's just a group of idle people with similar interests get together to sing and play. But teahouses can be lent out to attract customers, so it is convenient for teahouses to put up notices in downtown areas: "I'll play drums one day." Drinking tea while listening to the drums in this teahouse is also called "eating drum tea". The word "wai drum" probably comes from Sichuan, but it seems that the wai drum in Kunming sings more Yunnan opera. I stayed in Kunming for seven years and never learned any Yunnan opera. I only remember a lyric in a play, "The solitary king has moss on his head". Why does the solitary king grow moss on his head? This idea is really strange, and you can't forget it once you hear it.

I'm not talking about "big teahouse". I seldom set foot in this big teahouse, and some big teahouses, including the thriving one on Zhengyi Road, have closed down one after another. I'm talking about the teahouse near the General Assembly.

Out of the new teaching building in The National SouthWest Associated University, there are two short streets, Zhu Feng Street and Linwen Street. There are at least ten teahouses in these two streets.

Come out of the new teaching building of United University, turn east and south, and enter a small brick archway street gate, which is Zhu Feng Street. The first house on the right hand side of the corner is a teahouse. This is a small teahouse with only three tea tables, and the tea sets of different sizes and shapes are also rough. I drew several bowls of orchids at random. In addition to selling tea, there are strings of straw sandals and sweet potatoes (so-called cold potatoes in Hunan) hanging under the eaves, which are also sold. It's a woman walking in the teahouse. This woman is strong and her skin is white. She gave birth to many children. She often has two children around her, holding a child in her hand. She often makes tea for her guests and feeds her children who should have been weaned. Her husband, much older than her, looks like an ape and has sharp eyes like an eagle. He doesn't care about anything. He drinks milk in a big bowl every afternoon. This man is a breeder. This situation makes us quite puzzled. This white and strong woman only sells a few bowls of tea, sandals and sweet potatoes a day. How can she feed so many mouths and supply milk to a lazy husband every day? Strange! Women in China seem to have amazing endurance, and no amount of burden can overwhelm them.

A few steps from this house, diagonally across the street, once opened a new teahouse to attract college students. The tables and chairs in this teahouse are all new and painted black. The waiter is wearing a white apron. Sell tea in exquisite white porcelain pots without bowls (Kunming teahouses usually sell tea in bowls). Besides green tea, we also sell Tuocha, fragrant tablets and Longjing. The local tea drinkers passed by the door, showed him the situation of this teahouse, and then looked at the college students full inside, and they went to another one. This teahouse has nothing to remember. It closed soon after it opened. College students still remember this teahouse because there is a peanut shop next door. There seems to be no man in this family. Standing at the counter selling goods are two aunts. They are still young and paint all day. Especially the sister-in-law, when she sees people passing by, she needs to smile. College students call her peanut beauty. This beautiful woman sells peanuts by the person. If you buy beautiful things, you will give a lot. Not so ugly. So every time we buy peanuts, we choose a tall and handsome "niche".

A few steps further, Ludong is the teahouse opened by Shaoxing people. I don't know why this Shaoxing boss came to Kunming, and I don't know why he came to Phoenix Street to open a teahouse. He hasn't changed his accent so far. Probably he feels like a stranger in a foreign land, so he has an unusual affection for college students from other places. Besides selling green tea, he also sells some hibiscus cakes, Samoan cakes, moon cakes and peach cakes in glass boxes. Sometimes I feel a little empty in my stomach, so I go to him and eat two snacks while drinking tea before dinner time. A wang xing student who is good at playing harmonica often drinks tea in Shaoxing People's Teahouse. He drinks tea, so he can owe money. Not only do you owe money for drinking tea, but sometimes you want to go to the movies and have no money, so this harmonica expert went out to borrow some from Shaoxing boss. Every time, the boss in Shaoxing is happy to open the till and take out the quantity we need. Excited and in high spirits, we strode straight to Nanping Cinema.

Go further and walk past more than a dozen shops, that is, Fengjie Street, and there is a teahouse in the east and west of Ludong Road.

Lu Dongjia is small and clean, and there are not many coffee tables. The shopkeeper is a thin man with several children. The shopkeeper has many things to do, and most of them are attended by a 13-year-old eldest son, whom we call "the director's son". The one on the west side of the street is dirty and messy, with uneven ground, cigarette butts, matchsticks and melon seeds everywhere. The coffee table is also seven big and eight small, wobbly, but the business is particularly good. From morning till night, it is crowded. Maybe it's feng shui. Okay. This tea house

At the junction of Fengxiang Street and Longxiang Street, the facade is opposite Fengxiang Street and Longxiang Street. Sitting in the teahouse, the excitement of the two streets can be seen. All the people who come to this restaurant for tea are locals, idle people in this street, "horse pot heads" who drive horses and sell firewood and vegetables. They all smoke leaves. After asking for tea, he took out a cigarette case from his pocket-round, made of leather, painted with a layer of black paint, opened it, uncovered the covered leaves, took out the cut leaves of Jintang and rolled them up one by one. The walls of the teahouse were painted in a mess. But I found a poem in the Western Wall, a real poem:

Remember the good old days,

Go to tea with dad.

Grinding snail shells in front of the door,

Get rid of the mud in the alley.

This is carved on the wall with an ink pen. This surprised me greatly. Who wrote this?

Every afternoon, a blind man comes to this teahouse to rap. He played the dulcimer and sang. According to the present statement, this should be a kind of Quyi, but I have never figured out what the name of this Quyi should be. I asked the director's son, and he said he was a dulcimer. I don't think so. What is he singing? Once I deliberately stood down and listened for a while. That's:

……

The fertile land was sold beautifully,

High-rise buildings were demolished,

The beautiful wife and concubine ran away,

That fox fur was pawned. ...

I thought about it, oh, this is a song to persuade opium. He sang about the harm of opium smoke. When was this handed down? Perhaps it was the work of a man who was concerned about the country and the people in Lin Zexu's time. But the blind man just sang his song, and the tea drinker didn't seem to be listening. They are still talking and thinking about their own ideas. When it was dark, the blind man walked home with his dulcimer on his back and a pole lit. I often wonder: can he eat enough today?

Entering the west gate is Linwen Street, and next to the city gate is a teahouse. This is the most boring teahouse. The photo frames on the wall of the teahouse are full of pictures of American movie stars, Betty Devi, Olive de Hagland, clark gable and Tyrone Bao Hua ... Besides selling tea, they also sell coffee and cocoa. The characteristics of this family are: in and out, in addition to the richer male students wearing suits and suede coats, there are also female students with curly hair like sausages. Sometimes on Saturday, there is a dance. The door of the teahouse was closed, and the dance music "Blue Danube" and "merry widow" came from inside, with a bang.

This diagonally opposite one is very different from this one. This teahouse sells fried sausage and tea. This blood sausage is poured from yak intestines. When frying, you can smell an extremely strong smell all over the street. It's hard to say whether this is a strange smell or a strange smell. This kind of Tibetan food, those female students who curl their hair like sausages are absolutely afraid to ask for it.

From these two teahouses to the east, walk a few steps and you can turn to Qianju Street in the south. There is an old-fashioned teahouse in the street, upstairs and downstairs, and there are many teahouses. This teahouse is "old-fashioned" because it has a chimney and can be rented. A section of bamboo is surrounded by a bamboo tube with a thick little finger and half a foot long, and one end is equipped with a shower nozzle with claws. This is a chimney. I put the tobacco in the mouth of the lotus, lit it with paper media, buried the whole mouth in the pipe mouth, and smoked it with all my strength. The water in the pipe drummed and the smoke poured straight into my heart, and I suddenly felt comfortable. It takes a little effort to smoke a pipe. The chimney of the teahouse is much thicker than that of the residents, and it is even with the desktop. When it is finished, it leans on the leg of the table, especially when it is sucked. There is a stall in front of this teahouse, which sells sour horns (I don't know what kind of tree it is, and its shape is a bit like Gleditsia sinensis, which makes people frown at the entrance), dates (also made from trees, which should be regarded as fruits, shaped like chicken feet, and in some places called chicken feet, which tastes strange, like brown sugar and a bit like licorice) and pickled pears (sugar pears are soaked in salt water). The soaked pears still taste like pears, and the pear meat is particularly crisp. After the Spring Festival, someone sells pueraria lobata in front of the door. Pueraria lobata is a medicine. I've only seen it in Chinese medicine shops before. It was cut into squares and processed. Only seen in Kunming. This kind of food can be eaten as a snack, and I didn't know it until Kunming. A piece of pueraria lobata with thick arms is placed horizontally on the board and covered with a wet cloth. For a little money, the seller of pueraria lobata will pick up a thin-edged long knife that is a bit like the one used to cut mutton slices with Beijing instant-boiled mutton and cut some slices for you. Snow white. It tastes a bit like raw white potato chips with dry flesh, but it tastes particularly strong. It is said that pueraria lobata can clear fire. Few students of the General Assembly have eaten Pueraria lobata. I want to buy something strange and have a taste.

When I was a sophomore, two students from the Foreign Languages Department and I often sat at the table by the window in this teahouse early in the morning, reading our own books, and sometimes sat for the whole morning without talking to each other. That's when I started writing. My first few novels were written in this teahouse. The teahouse is near Cuihu Lake, and the wind blowing from Cuihu always smells of water hyacinth.

Go back to Linwen Street. Linwen Street, facing the government corridor, later opened a new teahouse. One of the characteristics of this teahouse is that it sells tea with glasses instead of bowls and pots. Do not sell green tea, sell green tea and black tea. Black tea is like a rose, and green tea is as bitter as pig gall. The second is that there are fewer coffee tables, all of which are glass desktops. It's really appropriate to play bridge on such a table, so most people who come to this teahouse for tea come to play bridge. This teahouse is really a bridge club. It's very windy to play bridge at the conference. A classmate named Ma comes here to play bridge every day. After liberation, I realized that he was one of the leaders of the student movement in the old underground city of party member. The student movement is in full swing. Every day he is just idle and keen on playing bridge. No one can see what he has to do with the student movement.

At the eastern end of Linwen Street, there is a teahouse opened by Cantonese. Its name is Guangfa Teahouse-the only teahouse in Kunming whose name I remember. One of the reasons is that I later lived in Minqiang Lane, close to Guangfa, and often went there. The second reason is that there are often several teaching assistants, graduate students and senior students in this teahouse. These people are somewhat cynical. At that time, the students of the conference often organized clubs, and we were a little cynical about these abrupt clubs. One day, a tea friend of Guangfa said, "We are also a society-Guangfa Society!" " This is a tea joke. Unexpectedly, a tea friend of Guangfa, after liberation, was entangled in a movement and confessed the problem at random.

, said he had participated in the "guangfa society". This is in trouble. Several times, someone made a special trip to Beijing to discuss the issue of "Guangfa Society". The people under investigation want to laugh, but they can't, because the political workers from other places are very serious. Guangfa Teahouse sells Cantonese dim sum. The so-called Cantonese dim sum is actually just a small shortcake wrapped with sweet fillings of different tastes, but with a few coriander leaves stuck on the surface, which is probably the unique skill of this pastry chef. I've eaten Cantonese dim sum in other places, and I've never seen one with coriander leaves on it-at least not every one.

Or ask: What effect does soaking in teahouses have on college students? A: First, it can improve the integrity. Naturally, the students at the conference are different in virtue and stupidity, but most of them are decent. It was a dirty and chaotic era, and students' lives were almost destitute, but many people were able to boast of being lofty, despise vulgarity, maintain a green sense of humor to deal with filth and poverty, and were not depressed, which was related to soaking in teahouses. Second, the teahouse produces talents. College students don't go to teahouses to soak in poverty. Besides chatting, they spend most of their time reading books. There are not many seats in the library, and there are no tables and chairs in the dormitory. Most of the reading is in the teahouse. Students of the General Assembly go to the teahouse without one or even several books. Many people's papers and reading reports are written in teahouses. One year, a lecturer named Shi took the final exam of Introduction to Philosophy, and I just took it to the teahouse to finish it before handing it in. Eight years after the congress, many talents have been produced. To study the history of the General Assembly and engage in "talent study", we must know about the teahouse near the General Assembly. Third, soaking in teahouses can contact the society. I am interested in all kinds of people and all kinds of lives, and I want to know more about them, which has something to do with soaking in teahouses. If I were still a novelist, I would be a novelist who had been in Kunming teahouse.

1May, 984 13

The ninth issue of Dianchi Lake was published in 1984.