Xipu village is a blood village. Miao You, the ancestor of Miao family in this village, lives in Huiji (now Shaoxing, Zhejiang). Due to the war, his great-grandchildren Miao Lu, Miao Tong and Qian Miao moved south and scattered in Oumin. The first migration was Miao Lu moved to Changxi (now Xiapu) in Yang Huo, Fujian Province in the first year of Guangming, Tang Xizong (now Xixi Village in Shouning, when Shouning had not yet established a county, most of its territory was under the jurisdiction of Changxi County). Xipumiao is one of the earliest recorded surnames in Shouning. It has been bred for more than forty generations. Miao Lu was named "Xi Ji" because of her ancestral home, to show that she never forgot her original meaning. Because "Ji" is homophonic with "Xi", it was later renamed "Xi". The second migration was after the Miao nationality had been bred for several generations, and then moved to Xiadonggao in Xixi Village. Due to the fire, Miao Huan Wen, the seventh ancestor of Miao family, moved for the third time, that is, moved to the bottom of Xiadonggao across the river on the north bank of Xixi, which is the embryo base of Xipu Village today, and the rest of the descendants followed suit.
According to the local elders, there is another reason for this migration: one winter day, the migrant workers of Miao family were drinking cows early in the morning and went out to slaughter them, so he ran wildly. The herdsmen couldn't catch up with him, only to see a group of cows wading through the stream and heading for the bottom of the family. When the shepherd arrived, he saw a spectacle: the sky was covered with snow and the fields were covered with snow. Only this place, which looks like a bird's nest, can't see any snow, and the heat is rising and the vegetation is rich. He immediately went back to report, and later, the owner went to see it happily. This is really a treasure house in heaven. Soon, my family and I moved here. Feng Menglong also mentioned this point in Shouning Zhi Dai Du Tu. At that time, the house was surrounded by dense forests, fertile land, dense population and extraordinary excitement. Sometimes there is a saying that "the family has eighteen streets". In Song Shenzong Yuanfeng Xinyou (108 1), Shisun Miaochang Road was given a special name (similar to Jinshi List), so the locals also called it "Jinshiping".
Later, with the population growth, the water used for living and production was inconvenient, and it gradually moved to the river. Because it is located in the west and the water comes from the west, the name of Xixi is changed to xipu, or Xixi and Xiaxixi. Because there is a series of sunken rhinoceros footprints on the rocks on the bank of the river under the stone dam in the lower reaches of the river, it is said that a god cow passed by, and the locals call it "Rhino Trail". So xipu is also called "xipu". The beauty of xipu lies in "three steps and one willow, ten steps and one bridge". There is a local folk song "Look at the scenery of Xipu, three rows and ten bridges", and the "step" is the piano bridge, which is a distinctive one in ancient Jinliang.
Bridge is a major landscape in Xipu, a provincial garden village. From time to time, there are all kinds of bridges that span the banks of the river and the Liu Yin everywhere like rainbows. There are as many as 13 bridges on the river less than 2000 meters long where people live together, with an average of one bridge every 70 to 80 meters. Its density is the highest in eastern Fujian and rare in the whole province. Across Xixi (Beixi) are Fushou Bridge, Neighbourhood Bridge, Moon Bridge and Taiyin Qingong Bridge; Across Xixi are Feiyun Bridge, Guantan Bridge, Yong 'an Bridge and Changle Bridge, namely Shangqin Bridge and Yong 'an Bridge. Across the lower reaches of Chantan are Hongqi Bridge, Xipu Bridge and Shuanglong Bridge. In addition, there are many bridges in Xipu.
These bridges are single-hole and porous; There are ancient, modern and modern; There are stone bridges, stone arch bridges, wooden arch bridges, horseshoe bridges and modern reinforced concrete T-bridges. Various forms, different ages, with unique scenery dotted with Xipu.
Among them, Fushou Bridge, Yong 'an Bridge and Sanqin Bridge have the most distinctive features and profound cultural connotations, which embodies the wisdom of the working people in ancient China.
Fushou bridge. Fushou Bridge, also known as Bart Bridge, is located in the covered bridge, with a length of 40.7 meters, a width of 4.9 meters and a single arch span of 32.8 meters. The arch of the bridge is made up of dozens of huge beams and huge trees, without a rivet. The bridge deck adopts a double slope corridor roof, and the roof truss is a four-column and nine-purlin bucket-through structure, with 18 bay and 76 columns. There are two rows of wooden stools on both sides of the corridor for pedestrians to rest. Under the eaves on both sides, there are five rows of long and short ladder-type weatherboards. At the northern end of the bridge, there is a bridge pavilion called Jiguangge.
Covered bridge is the development and innovation of ancient Hongqiao. That is, adding a gallery on the bridge deck of Hongqiao can not only protect the arch frame, but also prolong the service life of the bridge; It can also shelter pedestrians from the wind and rain, killing two birds with one stone. There is a beautiful "Bianshui Hongqiao" in Zhang Zeduan's famous painting "The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival" in the Northern Song Dynasty, which makes many people admire it. Bridge experts believe that the covered bridge is the continuation and development of Hongqiao which prevailed in the Central Plains in the Northern Song Dynasty, and the bridge-building technology has not been lost. There are less than 200 covered bridges in the world, mainly concentrated in the mountainous areas of southern Zhejiang, eastern Fujian and northern Fujian, and Fushou Bridge is one of them.
The date of the construction of Fushou Bridge is ominous, and there are words to test. It can be found in the poem "Ying Ju Zao Hang" dedicated to Miao Chan, the champion of the Southern Song Dynasty: "I love my family and my bed, and my clothes are upside down; The bell is far away from the crow, and the light shadow obliquely invades the sword shadow; The road is rugged with bamboo sticks, and the plum fragrance is recognized in the moonlight; Fame and fortune are bitter, and I am punning, which has broken the frost of the front axle. " At that time, Miao Chan still lived in Xiadong Gaolao House in Xixi Village, but he did not move to the ground floor of the house. Qianqiao (named after Qianqiao, because there is no way to test the name of the bridge) is in front of his house. When Miao Zen returned, the villagers renamed "Qianqiao" as "Denglong Bridge". 1245, Fu 'an County was established, and Xipu area was under the jurisdiction of Fu 'an. According to the Records of Fuan County, in ten years (1250), Linglin of Fuan County rebuilt the bridge at the drinking place of Miaochan in Sandu, and went to the spring to try drinking because of Miaochan, a citizen. This shows that "Qianqiao" was renamed as "Denglong Bridge" and then rebuilt (see Lei Yunling's "No.1 Covered Bridge"). After being submerged several times, you can't see the original appearance. The existing bridge was built in the 19th year of Jiaqing in Qing Dynasty (18 14) and repaired in the 19th year of the Republic of China (1930).
Yong 'an Bridge Yong 'an Bridge, located not far west of Chantan and across Xixi, is a stone slab bridge with a length of 73 meters and a width of 2 meters. It has 65,438+07 holes and 65,438+06 groups of pier stones, each group has three groups of vertical stones, there is a cross frame stone on the foundation, each group has five straight paving stones, and there are 80 paving stones on the bridge deck. On each pier, 2 meters away from the pier, stands a pier stone, which the locals call "General Shi". This ingenious design greatly reduces the impact of floating objects on the bridge and plays an important role in protecting the bridge. In order to protect the Yong 'an Bridge, the Miao people at that time built a stone dam under the bridge 10 meters, and built a row of piers (piano bridge) on the dam to slow down the flow rate and protect the bridge foundation, and the piers were still available for people to pass.
Yong 'an Bridge connects the banks of Xipu, and its design and construction are very scientific. The Xipu River has a wide surface and low terrain on both sides. If an arch bridge is built, it will inevitably raise the bridge deck, which is not good for traffic. And the cost and difficulty are great. Therefore, the designer adapted to local conditions and built a stone slab bridge.
Yong 'an Bridge was built in Qing Daoguang for 28 years, with a history of 160 years. At that time, the process of building the bridge was clearly described in the "Juxian Pavilion" at Qiaotou in the northwest. The inscription on the bridge and a cultural relic are engraved with the name of the stonemason, the name of the donor and the amount of money. It is not difficult to see from the donors on the monument that people were generous and enthusiastic about public welfare at that time.
Juxian Pavilion, with stone and wood structure, double eaves and upturned eaves, has a unique shape, which is not only an organic part of Yong 'an Bridge, but also a quaint and quiet scenery in Xipu Village.
Later generations boarded Yong 'an Bridge, deeply impressed by the generosity of the villagers at that time, and Gong's heroic gesture left a poem "Yong 'an Nostalgia": "If the heart is like a tide, people with lofty ideals dream far away; Drink night wind dew, after the autumn moon and spring night; Dongxiang (Xixi Township was called Dongxiang before the Qing Dynasty) is famous, and 16 docks have become old ruins, and smoke has been produced all the way. "
In August 2006, the super typhoon "Sang Mei" raided Xipu, and the Yong 'an Bridge was seriously damaged, and six holes were washed away in the middle by the flood peak. Local villagers are doing their best to plan emergency repairs.
In addition, the scenery of Qinqiao is unique. Qinqiao is commonly known as Qibu and Horseshoe Bridge. There are three villages in Xipu, which are located in front of Taiyin Palace, under Yong 'an Bridge and at the head of Xipu Village. Villagers choose the shallower part of the stream. Every small step, a cubic stone is called anchorage, and the anchorage is empty, so that the water can flow smoothly. The anchorage is higher than the annual water level 10-20cm, so pedestrians don't have to wade across the river. Xipu's seven steps are the best in Shouning. According to Shouning County Records revised by 1992, "there are 12 flag departments in the county ... Xipu Village has the most, with 3 in one village and 255 teeth". The most distinctive piano bridge in xipu Village is called Taiyin Qin Gong Bridge, which is located in front of Taiyin Palace. This row has 87 teeth, of which every 6 teeth, pedestrians meet, one side gives way, and the other side can go straight. The designer is really ingenious. The enduring cultural atmosphere of xipu Village laid the foundation for the ancient cultural scenery, leaving many places of interest and classic houses. From Song Dynasty to modern times, there are still buildings of past dynasties, one by one, which makes people linger.
A standard building-Champion Square. After Miao Chan won the first prize, the Champion Square was built outside the official residence of Changxi County (now Xiapu). In the following 800 years, many Shouning county magistrates and Miao descendants built Zhuangyuanfang or Zhuangyuan Bridge for Miao Zen in Shouning county, Xixi and Xipu respectively. Among them, in the fifth year of Zheng De in Ming Dynasty (1526), Shouning County ordered Yin Zhou to build the Champion Square in the south of Zhijie (now Jiefang Street) in the county seat, and made a note of it. At the same time, he changed the name of the stream passing through the county to Chanxi. In the twenty-first year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty (1542), Shouning County ordered Xiong Zhi to build the Champion Bridge at the old site of Aihui Bridge (now Zilai Bridge) in front of the county government, and wrote two poems, Preface to the Champion Bridge and Champion Bridge. Unfortunately, the former Zhuangyuan Square (Bridge) has been abandoned. However, in the mid-1990s, with the approval of Shouning County People's Government, it was agreed to rebuild Zhuangyuanfang in the former site of Zhuangyuanfang in Xipuhe County. Subsequently, the Miao people from all over Fujian and Zhejiang spontaneously donated money to rebuild the grand champion square next to the original first road at the south foot of Jinzhongshan Mountain in Xipu Village. The whole building is rectangular, surrounded by a wall more than 2 meters high, with 8 steps on the front. Stepping up the stairs, a magnificent and quaint archway stands in front of us, with the word "No.1 scholar" engraved in the middle, and the top of the square is embossed and vivid. Through this main building, there is a hexagonal pavilion with glazed tile roof, named "Huanggu Pavilion", in which the algae wells are beautifully painted. Walking into the gate of the memorial hall, the congratulatory plaque on the wall shines brightly, and the words and patterns on each plaque are masterpieces of calligraphy and sculpture. The whole garden is dotted with poets and poets, and there are many poems. Since the Zhuangyuan Square was built in the autumn of 1997, there has been an endless stream of tourists.
Ritual building-ancestral hall. There are four ancient ancestral temples in Xipu Village: Nanyang Temple, Jingshan Temple, Fengyang Temple and Sijiao Temple. The ancestral temple is in the core position in Xipu, which is not only a place for ancestor worship, but also a place for people to discuss. It is not only a bond of blood relationship, but also a memorial hall for outstanding people in the clan.
Nanyang temple. Along the stream near the south bank of Yong 'an Bridge, there is a special building, which is the "Nanyang Temple" of the Miao people in Xipu Village, also called "One Temple". Among many sacrificial buildings in Xipu, it is the most distinctive. This ancestral hall was built in the 57th year of Qing Qianlong (1792). According to local records, ancestral halls were built many times in different times and places before, but they were abandoned successively due to floods. This ancestral hall is large in scale, reasonable in layout, gorgeous in shape, rigorous in structure and antique. Surrounded by clear water in front of the door, leaning against Jin Zhongshan. The memorial archway in Liang Fang is exquisitely carved, with heavy colors and solemnity. There are four colorful reliefs with flowers as the theme on the front of the roof. After two centuries of wind and rain, the color is still very bright. On the concave walls on both sides, there is a couplet inscribed by Dong, the magistrate of Shouning County in the Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty: "Aoyang is the champion and xipu is the historian." Stepping into the gate, the interior is integrated by the stage and the front and rear halls. The most eye-catching thing is the ancient stage. Above the octagonal algae well, there are many dramatic plots of the year, and the characters are lifelike. It is still discernible, and there are still some reliefs on the roof. On the whole, it still retains the gorgeous style of the past.
In the front hall (Xiangtang) opposite the stage, a delicate giant plaque is hung high, on which the word "No.1 scholar" is engraved with gold thread, and the word "purport" is engraved at the top of the middle. The plaque is decorated with gold lacquer lace. This number one plaque shows the brilliance of the Miao people.
Jingshan Temple. It was built in the tenth year of Jiading in Song Dynasty (12 17), and it is the oldest. This ancestral hall is three rooms wide and three courtyards. Before liberation, the Qiandian (Enjoy Hall) was dilapidated, and the ground was covered with thorns, making it difficult for people to get involved. There is a pond four meters square in the middle. Above the seven stone steps, there is a sleeping hall. Although there are not many furnishings, the porch in front of the sleeping room is beautifully carved and rich in themes. In particular, the "carp yue longmen" pattern symbolizing graduation on the moon beam is lifelike. Euphemistically expressed xipu's good wishes for talents and villagers to make progress. This building is both a shrine and a temple. In 1950s and 1970s, it was renovated twice and converted into a temple called Jingshan Temple.
Fengyang temple. Also known as "Erdao Temple", it faces Nanyang Temple across the river. It was built in the thirty-third year of Guangxu in Qing Dynasty (1907). A gatehouse was built on the front, with a wooden plaque of "Miao Ancestral Hall" hanging on it, and there was a big stage in the door. Compared with A Ancestral Temple, there are fewer algae wells on it, but an auxiliary stage was added on the right side in the early 1950s, which was specially designed for the accompaniment of the band during the performance.
Four major religious temples. Sijiao Temple was formerly a library built in Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty. It was built by Miao Shengzhi and named "Yueyuxuan", which inspired children. In the sixth year of Tongzhi reign in the Qing Dynasty (1867), Miao Shengzhi's great-grandson built a nave and two temples in the original site of Yue Yuxuan, trying to build a "Four-religion Temple", but the fire spread to the surrounding areas and most of them were burned by a torch. 19 12, and its descendants raised funds to make it.
Worship buildings-Taiyin Palace and Imperial Palace. Taiyin Palace is located in the upper right of the Zen altar, beside Xixi (Beixi). It was built in Dade period of Yuan Dynasty (1297- 1307) and rebuilt in Tongzhi period of Qing Dynasty (1870). It can be called the "ancestor" of Xipu ancient buildings. It is built on a mountain and faces two waters. On the walls on both sides of the gate, the calligraphy "Two rivers flow freely outside the pavilion, and four people protect the front of the temple with fireworks" is a couplet with strict meter and neat antithesis, which not only concisely explains the geographical environment where Taiyin Palace is located, but also expresses the good wishes of all walks of life in xipu who believe in Buddhism and pray for blessings. There are three shrines in the Hall of Ursa Major, all of which are dedicated to female bodhisattvas. In the middle is the statue of Chen Jinggu. The shrine on the left is dedicated to Mazu, and the shrine on the right is dedicated to Guanyin in Nanhai. There is a golden couple on the left and right. The most noteworthy is the algae wells and murals on both sides of the main hall. Although it has gone through 700 years of spring and autumn, the colors are still the same. Above the main hall is an oval octagonal algae well painted with fairy tales such as The Journey to the West and The List of Gods. The algae well on the left depicts a pair of golden roosters flapping their wings to fight, and the algae well on the right depicts a beautiful peacock perched on a laurel tree. These murals are not only rich in content, but also exquisite and creative.
Since the establishment of Taiyin Palace, every year on the eve of Lantern Festival, good people in the village will decorate Taiyin Palace with lanterns and colorful decorations. Many families donate voluntarily, the first thing to do is to collect and prepare incense, and invite Taoist priests to set up a Dojo for a few days to "welcome immortals" and pray for good luck and peace in the village. During the period, gongs and drums were loud, firecrackers were heard, and devout people went to the palace to burn incense and pray.
The Grand Palace on the xipu River lives next to Taiyin Palace. It was built in 37 years of the Republic of China (1948), and the villagers are vigorously expanding and transforming it. Soon it will show its luxurious style.
Classical dwellings-ancient dwellings. There are hundreds of ancient houses in Xipu. Due to different social status, economic strength and construction years, the ancient dwellings in Xipu Village are naturally different in quality, scale and style. Most of the ancient houses in Xipu Village are large and small. The three-story courtyard has three entrances and two floors, and their gatehouse is full of changes. There are Song-style, double eaves leaning against mountains and single stone doorframes. The materials used are also different, some are all wood structures, some are all stone, some are stone-wood frames, and some are masonry structures. Most of Xipu ancient houses have two gatehouses inside and outside, with the outer gate facing the upstream water. Some outer doorframes are engraved with couplets, the lintel is decorated with symbolic reliefs such as "Fish" (more than one year) and "Deer" (Fulu), and the door is engraved with "Shen Tu is depressed and tired" to ward off evil spirits. If the inner door is facing the main hall, there is often a stone tunnel connected with it, forming an axial symmetry. Stepping into the inner gate building, you can see the wings of the patio. There are often several tables with different decorations in front of the wall of the hall, and there is a "stigma mirror" at the upper end of the post. This column is shaped like a disk, and the vase is engraved with gossip, which is different from family to family. The doors and windows of xipu ancient house are beautifully carved with rich themes; The arches in Liang Fang are beautifully carved. Xipu Creek is rich in stones, so the pedestal of rammed earth wall of every ancient house is built with rough stones. Courtyards and roads are paved with pebbles of all sizes, many of which are classic and distinctive.
Miaobufu Ancient House is a well-preserved classic residence in Xipu Village. It was built by Miao in Xianfeng period.
The ancient house is located on the left side of Xizaibian Road. The wall of the front yard is parallel to the road, and a rammed earth wall is built on the wall foundation made of rubble. A flat square stone is stacked at one end of the wall base facing the door, and the edge is gradually closed upwards, forming quite soft lines, and all the inside and outside of the high firewall are painted.
The floor of the hall of this five or six old house is paved with concrete. The upper stringer is carefully carved. There are wooden doors on the left and right sides of the back of the central beam screen wall. The hollowed-out pattern on the door makes the front and rear rooms look separated, which increases the level and is full of changes. There is also a patio in the backyard and a flower bed at the root of the front wall. On the long steps of three stones, all kinds of bonsai are neatly placed. Throughout the year, exotic flowers and grasses compete for each other. This makes the backyard environment very beautiful and charming, especially the century-old cycad, which is fragrant from generation to generation. Witnessed the vicissitudes of this ancient house and the rise and fall of honor and disgrace.
The sculpture of this ancient house is mainly about plants and animals. The door beside the entrance in front of the hall is engraved with pomegranate, flat peach and orange. These sculptures all take a beautiful meaning, some take its homonym, such as: orange-Geely, and some take its meaning, such as: multi-seed pomegranate. But all flowers have fruits, which means beauty. In the whole house, the most striking thing is bat sculpture. "Bat" and "Fu" are homophonic, symbolizing happiness. From the front yard to the back yard, from the stigma to the beam, doors and windows are decorated with bat sculptures everywhere.
An ancient workshop-oil mill. There is a lot of cultivated land in Xipu. Since ancient times, the ancestors of Xipu have been industrious and capable, vigorously cultivated land in the mountains around the village and planted camellia oleifera crops everywhere. In addition, there are many streams in the village, which provide power conditions for the waterwheel, so the Camellia oleifera workshop came into being.
There is an ancient oil mill at the top left of the Zen altar. A huge ancient waterwheel is facing the gate of the oil mill. There is a big grinding disc in the middle of the oil mill, which is used to grind brown hazelnuts. After that, it is cooked on a pot stove built against the wall, and the hot air from the wooden steamer brings out the attractive fragrance of hazelnuts. The sound of the waterwheel running around the clock and the rhythmic tapping of the mallet when pressing oil interweave into cheerful country songs. Youfang was built in Jiaqing period of Qing Dynasty, with a history of nearly 200 years. The villagers here collect hazelnuts from the mountains around early winter every year, peel them and dry them, and then process them into edible oil or lighting oil. Oil production starts every year 1 1 month and lasts until March of the following year. You can squeeze up to three or four hundred tons of oil a year. In the 1950s and 1960s, the second floor of this oil mill was a tea workshop in the village. There are four kinds of traditional wooden tea kneading machines in sequence. The tea knead machine is driven by a wooden gear on that water shaft. Every spring tea mining season, people are busy squeezing oil downstairs and making tea upstairs. The villagers' faces were filled with joy that could not be concealed when harvesting. Oil production continues every year, but the traditional workshops in the past have been gloriously laid off.
Pavilion of ancient roads-shiguling pavilion. There is a stone road in the south of Xipu Village called Shiguling, which used to be the main road from Shouning to Xipu Dataishun. A pavilion was built at the top of the ridge and named Shiguling Pavilion after the road. This ancient pavilion was built by Xipu villagers in Jiaqing period of Qing Dynasty (1796— 1820) and rebuilt in Wugeng period of the Republic of China (1930). This is a large-scale tea pavilion, with five compartments on the front, five wooden benches on the rammed earth wall and eleven beams on the pavilion, which contain the time of building the pavilion, the first thing, silver donation and so on. After the pavilion was built, the local people set aside three or four acres of land next to the pavilion for people living in the pavilion to cultivate. Groups of passers-by and villagers working in this area often go to the pavilion to rest or shelter from the rain. Especially in the hot summer, they sit on polished wooden benches, feel the cool wind passing through the pavilion, smoke cigarettes, enjoy fragrant teas and chat with each other, which is very comfortable.
How much wind and rain, how much spring and autumn.
The villagers in Xipu live a farming life with hard-working hands. After the founding of New China, especially after the spring breeze of the Third Plenary Session of the Eleventh Central Committee of the Communist Party of China, great changes have taken place in Xipu Village. Nowadays, with the continuous development of local economy, the majority of villagers take agriculture as the leading factor, adjust measures to local conditions, expand tea gardens and start businesses. The village has established three tea factories, a hydropower station with an installed capacity of 65,438+0,000 kilowatts, a large bamboo handicraft factory, a gas station, 17 machine brick factory, as well as a toy factory and a slate processing factory. Xipu Tea Factory, especially, was established in 1996, and has formed a large-scale production line of primary, refined and special tea technology. More than ten series products of "Miyayama Fairy Thunder" produced by this factory are exported to Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong and other provinces and cities. In May, 20001,it won the gold medal of "China Shaanxi First Tea Expo", was awarded the "Recommended Famous Tea Award" by China Tea Society and Wang Sai Organizing Committee of China Star Tea in June of the same year, and was awarded the silver prize by China Tea Circulation Association in June of 2004 ... Since then, the company's "Miyayama Xianlei" products have built well-known brands in domestic and foreign markets and been promoted.
A long history, numerous historical sites, unique scenery, simple folk customs, wise ancestors, smoky past and soaring economy are intertwined into a colorful picture of xipu. With the progress of the times, Xipu, a historic village in Zhao and Song Dynasties, will glow with more charming brilliance!