Because of its excellent genes, we choose the branches that bloom and are strong that year.
Every two paragraphs are cuttings, so it is necessary to distinguish the upper and lower directions of axillary buds. Never make cuttings with axillary buds down, cut off the lower petiole of the cuttings and slightly cut the lower part of the branches into an inclined shape. Keep the petiole leaves on the upper branches and cut off half of the leaves to reduce the consumption of nutrients.
Put the yellow sand into a shallow cutting basin or a used disposable transparent plastic cup (recommended). The drainage hole at the bottom of the sand basin is larger than that of a common flowerpot. If a plastic cup is used, a drainage hole or a cross seam should be opened at the bottom of the cup to facilitate drainage. When pruning, first insert a small hole in the yellow sand with thin sticks such as bamboo chopsticks or stainless steel cones, then insert the cut jasmine cuttings into the sand in time, press them with your fingers, water them, and put them in a ventilated place with scattered light for maintenance. Always pour clean water. Yellow sand has excellent drainage performance, which facilitates the formation of nodules and rooting at the lower part of cuttings (rooting of cuttings can be observed in disposable transparent plastic cups).
After a week, if you can't see the withered branches and leaves, you can go to the sun. You should always spray clean water to keep the substrate and branches moist, so as to help the branches sprout new buds and new roots survive. Generally, axillary buds germinate first, and then fibrous roots grow. Never touch the cuttings after axillary buds germinate. Pay attention to watering and observe whether there are fibrous roots in the transparent plastic cup. It takes about 40 to 60 days to take root, and some flowers will sprout. If there are flowers, be sure to cut them off, so as not to let them absorb too much nutrition, which is not conducive to the rooting of cuttings. If you see the sprouting buds and then grow taller, it means that the cuttings are beginning to grow new roots. Note: If only one cutting is inserted in the plastic cup, it is convenient to take the seedlings and put them in the pot when transplanting. Seeing the white fibrous root in the plastic cup proves that this cutting is completely alive and can be transplanted into the pot soil for maintenance.
Management of transplanting new seedlings: Jasmine likes to grow in oily sandy soil, vegetable garden eluvial soil (topsoil) and lotus pond soil. When transplanting, put some tiles and coarse soil on the bottom of the basin (base fertilizer can be added for transplanting in spring, and no base fertilizer is added for transplanting at other times), which is beneficial to drainage and avoids root rot. Take the surviving cuttings out of the cup, try to keep the sand balls at the root and gently put them into the prepared pot soil. Don't add pot soil while shaking. Press the added basin soil tightly by hand and pour it thoroughly. Leave it in the dark for a week or so, and you can maintain it in the usual way. When watering, you must see the wet and dry, you can't always water the fibrous roots, and you don't give them a chance to breathe and stretch.