( 1)

Blow my stomach, I'm interested! Crispy tripe with hot sesame seed cake and a bowl of mutton offal soup. This is a hot tie, even if you don't change its sovereignty, we are so ambitious!

Where you teach Muslim restaurants, there is no one who does not prepare this snack, which is famous for its frequent customers. You said it was a big plate, so you lifted it. If you say it's not enough, then you have insufficient knowledge. How many great gourmets enjoy this humble poor man alone.

A generation of famous horn horses is also a glutton, and they know all about belly-popping. During the Republic of China, Shenglong Jin opened by Feng Jinsheng was the most famous tripe shop in Beijing. At that time, Ma had an evening performance, so he had to bring home a tripe. The tripe is crisp, and Feng Jinsheng is unique in that his tripe is crisp when it is cold.

Shenglong Jin is still prosperous today. If you like this, you might as well go to Kang and taste it yourself. As for whether it is old or not, I guess it has changed a lot. When the calendar is reversed, when the mountains and rivers are perishable, the taste of tripe will keep pace with the times.

195 1 year, Ma finally returned to Beijing from Xiangjiang River where he had been stranded for several years. His homesickness is first manifested in his desire for hometown food. Boss Ma, who was as eager to break out as a doctor after a long illness, couldn't wait to go, but he was fed up.

The tripe is eaten with dipping sauce. All kinds of innovations in the new society, dipping sauce has become spilt, and sauce has been obviously diluted. The horse discussed with the man to dip the dishes in the bowl. At this time, men are not junior in the old society, but young workers in the new society, full of ownership and new terms. Ma, who has always been conservative, really doesn't know what a bourgeois lifestyle is, which is much deeper than operas, so he begged for mercy: Can I not eat?

If the articles about food exceed the cooking standards, they will be willing to take care of themselves. Diet can become a culture, not in the food itself, but in the people who give it vitality. China on the Tip of the Tongue is very good, because it tells the story of China people. The story I'm going to tell today is about a man with an upset stomach, and the hero's surname is also Ma.

Horse is the most popular name in Islam, but every family has the same surname. This horse has nothing to do with Li Anliang. As for the relationship with the widow Ma, I have yet to verify it.

(2)

I didn't ask Ma Ye's big size, but after 60 years old, he has a wide body and a fat body. Zhuo Zhuo, Niu Shan, can ask him to play the flower monk in the future filming of Water Margin. I have a hobby. Everywhere I go, I will explore local snacks and look for the wonders left by the people. I drove Master Ma out of Beijing Hutong.

The wonder of life lies in the unspeakable fate, but this fate needs to be grasped by yourself and you need to have the courage to believe in the kindness of strangers. Every vagrant is lonely when he first arrives in another country, and I am no exception. When I first came to Beijing, I was born in two places and was full of curiosity. I bumped into Master Ma in the chaos of wandering around.

I remember it was also an early spring of man show. Maye's small restaurant is only a stone's throw away from me. I didn't expect to go in many times. I was so greedy that I listened to my inner call that day. I had a rough life experience. Most delicious snacks come from mean alleys. Holding an empirical attitude, I stepped into the threshold and was almost scared out.

At the door sat a big bald head with hunter's eyes and a faint smoke. Shit, is this the shop in Jiang Menshen? Unfortunately, I'm not Brother Wu!

Master Ma nodded at me motionless: "Are you alone? Sit down and eat a tripe? " Out of respect for Mr. Ma, I didn't talk to him, so I ate my lunch and left. Who let me be from the Appearance Association? But the taste of his stomach is stored in my taste bud memory.

A few days later, the lure of the glutton drove me to Master Ma's restaurant, which should be regarded as our first meeting.

On that day, several young artists sat at the next table, eating their bellies, playing guitars and singing the folk songs of Erguotou. It is not surprising that this foreign accent is only available in Beijing. The smell of joy can always eliminate strangeness and reserve. I also joined the party at the next table, and Master Ma moved the stool and leaned in.

Unlike what I heard, Master Ma took the guitar from a young man and sang "Eggs under the Red Flag" in a deep and rich voice. He became the boiling point of the audience. Thunder is rolling. I didn't expect such a rough gentleman to have a coquettish heart.

The little brothers at the next table are all born after 90, and I don't know the name of the song that Ma also sings. Ma also expressed a little disappointment: the year has changed, and this is our song at that time.

I can't help but blurt out: "Cui Jian is the national idol of your generation!"

"Oh, yes, brother, have you heard of Lao Cui?" Master Ma gave me a glimmer of light when he looked at me.

Eggs under the Red Flag? I heard of Lao Cui in junior high school. "

The most effective way to quickly close the distance between people is to find a common topic. Ma and I both started talking. Ma is also a diligent person, and I am a moderate glutton. Naturally, I want to talk about the way of drinking, and I have become friends with horses.

From then on, I eat fried belly once a week, not for lunch, but for chatting with interesting people.

The two of us have visited almost all the time-honored brands in Beijing and Tianjin, such as sliced hibiscus chicken in Dongxing Building, sea cucumber with scallion in Fengze Garden, mullet and egg soup in Cuihua Building, mutton hoof with sauce in Fanghui Building, beef steamed dumplings in Yongyuande and barbecue in Nanwan North Season. ...

It was not until I got to know Ma Ye better that I realized that he was very talented. This is no ordinary chef. He talked about the practical sublimation of diet. When it comes to barbecue, it will lead to a story in A Dream of Red Mansions. Pink fragrant baby cuts the fishy smell and smells like spring breeze. The only fly in the ointment is that Shi Xiangyun is not sitting opposite me.

Master Ma knows the local customs of Beijing like the back of his hand, such as when to take photos at the corner building of the Forbidden City, which wife Qi Baishi likes best, which house he lived in nearby, and which senior official ... I have seen him as a voluntary tour guide for Beijing diners more than once.

(3)

Master Ma is very strange in doing business. He must close the door on National Day. I asked him why he didn't open the door on the best day. Ma's reason is very old Beijing: "I'm so busy all the fucking year round that I don't have time to give myself a holiday." If you don't earn enough money, you have to spend it! "

I only drink when I chat with Master Ma, and he only chats with me. I advised him to drink with me several times, but Master Ma refused. "I'm waiting for you. I have guests eating and drinking, and I don't know the rules. "

Old Beijing is full of gas and pays more attention to both internal and external repair. I turned down my invitation several times. Ma wanted to invite me alone that day, but it wasn't drinking, it was taking a bath. This honest meeting let me know Master Ma's past story.

Ma Ye's bathing is a normal life, commonly known as putty. At 8 o'clock every day, Master Ma closes the door to see the guests off. He must get together with his bath friends. It's a small bathhouse in East Forty-two, hidden in the depths of hutong like his restaurant. Nowadays, there are many bath centers, and it is not easy for you to find such a beautiful bath. If you have seen the movie Bath, you will definitely remember the rich Beijing flavor and warm human feelings in the bathhouse. Ma Ye and his bath friends are a realistic portrayal of this film, only more dreamy.

They said it was a bath, but it was actually a sauna competition, which opened my eyes. I have seen many saunas in the north and south, but this is the first time I have seen such a horrible sauna.

It's no exaggeration to say terror. The air in that room is hot, and the skin feels burning as soon as you go in. Afraid that I couldn't stand it, Master Ma specifically told me, "Don't try to be brave. If you don't feel well, get out of here. Last time, there was a young man from Inner Mongolia who pretended to be B, and his eyes were blistered on his shoulders. "

They pay attention to the steam bath with three entrances and three exits, and the thermometer is hung on the wall, and it takes three laps from low to high to be steamed. Yunzheng and Xia Wei, and Ma are also in Tan Xing. "Don't look at my brother's virtue, we are also serious college students!"

(4)

Ma is also an undergraduate of Capital Institute of Physical Education. After graduation, I worked as a teacher in a middle school in Dongcheng District. According to him, he has been a teaching model for three years. 1989 spring outing, Ma was in it. After the investigation, oversight ordered Ma to make a written review. He pinched his neck and said, Lao Tzu is right! "A gentleman can't buckle the lavatory on his head. Yes, that's right. I pig eight quit to throw a rake-I can't wait on (monkeys). "

At that time, it took a lot of courage to resign, and Ma left the system and became a self-employed. He turned his clothes upside down, threw away the wagon, made some money and lost everything, and finally remembered the craftsmanship at home.

Ma Ye's son inherited his mantle and studied Sanda in the Institute of Physical Education. He said that he would retire and travel around the world when his son graduated. "Get to know your little sister better before you get old."

Although everything has to be settled, I didn't expect Master Ma's banquet to end so soon. Business trip, back to Shanghai headquarters for one year. When I returned to Beijing, I immediately went to Maye's small restaurant. I was so sad that General Iron closed the door.

On my way to Shanghai, I received a phone call from Master Ma. Walking on the street corner, he suddenly missed me, asked me about my recent situation, reminded me to pay attention to my health, and said that he would cook dinner for me when he came back. Why did he suddenly lock it? Today is not a holiday either.

More than half a month has passed, and Ma Ye's shop hasn't opened yet, so I can't help calling him. Master Ma at the other end of the phone was excited: "Brother, you are back. I am in Dongguan. Hey, this place is a fucking lords' paradise. I don't even bother to go back. " At that time, Dongguan had not yet ushered in the general cleaning of social air. Ma and his friends also drove to Nanyue. Obviously, "Gentle Township is the tomb of heroes".

A month later, I met Master Ma. The shop is open, but closed. As always, he sat behind his desk smoking and told me about the fun of this long trip. Although his mouth was full of laughter, his face was obviously worried.

I asked him, "What happened when you went out to travel this time and didn't pick up guests when you came back?"

"Hey, it's bad luck to meet friends when you get rich." Master Ma told me something.

(5)

Next to Maye's shop is a supermarket run by a couple. The man called him Lao Si, and the couple have been working hard in Beijing for more than ten years. Old four sees that Master Ma's business is good, and it's not too complicated to make a tripe. His wife in the supermarket had seen enough by herself, so she volunteered to help Master Ma, and she didn't need to be paid. Beer was enough. Master Ma is really tired when he is busy alone. It is not appropriate to hire a person. Old four is willing to do it, and Master Ma can rest assured. Besides, distant relatives are not as good as close neighbors. Ma is also a red-faced man and can't refute other people's good intentions.

Old four is a man of heart. Master Ma always looks carefully when he is in charge of the kitchen. After a long time, he thought he had finished smoking. The authentic uncle Beijing is really not the material of the director. He is lazy, open-minded and soft-hearted. He didn't respond when people put him in a condom.

Old four doesn't know when to get along with the landlord. The landlord informed Ma that the house must be taken back for emergency use and gave Ma two months to move. Master Ma thought it was going to raise the rent. People said it had nothing to do with money, so they stopped renting it and returned the rest of the rent to Master Ma. The blood of the horse came up and had a big fight with the landlord. The next day, the landlord cut off the water. Old four appeared at the right time, showing deep brotherhood in front of Ma Ye, and wanted to negotiate with the landlord for Ma Ye, but he had a small request. Old four's condition is to be in charge of looking at the house, but this store wants to change its boss, want to take a stake, and share the account with Master Ma.

"He left me 20%, so fucking loyal!" At this time, Master Ma suddenly realized that the director of the play was around! As for why the old four won the landlord, the horse is still unclear. He said he would think about it and only travel for two months.

Master Ma finally failed to accept the conditions of Lao Si. He disappeared from this street. I haven't seen him for three years. Old four inherited Master Ma's signboard and hired two guys. He is much more diligent than Master Ma and has increased his breakfast.

Every time I pass by there, I see the excitement inside is even worse than when Master Ma is there. Old four always has a smile on his face. How many times have you seen me? Old Four warmly invited me: "Come in for a drink, just like when Master Ma is here. This is also your home. " I often decline his thanks. I really don't know what it's like. God knows!

I picked up the phone several times to talk to Master Ma, but I turned to his number and put it down. Without that store, I don't know what Mr. Ma's financial situation is now. I'm afraid I'll hurt his pride. Mr. Ma is a respectable person. Of course, it is also possible that Master Ma realized his long-cherished wish, retired completely and chatted with sisters all over the country. If so, I'm happy for him. I vaguely remember that Master Ma said, "At my age, I am a technical school, pulling lightly, dragging slowly and finding feelings."