Hongwu has been customized for 26 years. All ceremonies, such as big sacrifices, celebrations, Zheng Dan, winter solstice, sacred festivals, issuing imperial edicts, open reading, entering the table, and passing through the system are with red Luo clothes, blue-collar with single white gauze, green edge of red Luo dress, bare Luo covering knees, a big red and white silk belt, belt, ribbon, and white socks and black shoes. Grades are distinguished by the number of top beams. The Eight Beams of Guan, the Seven Beams of Hou and Bo are all covered with a cage towel "The Story of Diusim" (the sable was originally hung with a sable tail, later changed to a pheasant tail, and the cicada was decorated with gold). Xu's seven beams don't need pheasant tails. Seven beams with one product, jade belt and Yu Pei furniture. Yellow, green, red and purple are woven into Yunfeng four-color brocade belt, with green screen and jade belt ring 2. The two products are six beams, belts and rhinoceros, and the rest are the same. Three products and five beams, golden belt, jade, yellow, green, red and purple are woven into Yunhe golden belt, black screen and gold belt ring 2. Four products are four beams, gold belt and jade (that is, glass), and the rest are the same as the three products. Five-level three beams, silver cymbal flowers (that is, silver embossed golden flowers), jade belt medicine, yellow, green, red and purple woven into a disc-shaped brocade, with two green meshes and silver-plated ribbon rings. One to five products are made of ivory water. Six, seven products and two beams, silver belt, jade belt medicine, yellow, green and red woven into three-color brocade belt, with black screen and silver belt ring 2. Royal clothing (god sheep). Eight, nine products and one beam, black horn (horn) belt, jade belt medicine, yellow and green intertwined? Two-color brocade belt, black screen and copper belt ring. Sophora japonica is six to nine grades.
In the eighth year of Jiajing (A.D. 1529), the royal clothes were changed into red robes, which were seven inches high at the waist and did not cover the lower skirt. The sheets are changed into white gauze with blue edges, and the lower clothes are red and blue edges. The first three pieces and the last four pieces each have three folds (pleats), with leather with a prefix covering the knees and a ribbon at the back covering the knees. The inside and outside of the big belt are plain. In the fifth year of Wanli, officials were ordered to pay their respects and not to wear Zhu Lu. Guan Bai can wear warm ears in winter and November.
2. Sacrificial clothing for civil and military officials
In places where the emperor personally worships temples and villages in the suburbs, civil and military officials offer sacrifices and wear sacrificial clothes. Hongwu twenty-six years, one to nine grades, blue sweater with soap collar, white gauze list with soap collar, red soap collar, bare knee, square heart bent collar with three grades or more. The crown is the same as the robe. You can wear it under four items. In the eighth year of Jiajing, it was decided that Shangguan in the Royal Guards Hall could wear a red python with four claws, a flying fish (with wings at the head and tail) and a black hat when looking for sacrifices, plowing fields and offering sacrifices to emperors of past dynasties. When offering sacrifices to the ancestral temple, they wear red casual clothes.
3. Uniforms for civil servants and military attache
In the third year of Hongwu, he took black hat, collared shirt and girdle as official clothes, including jade one product, flower rhinoceros two product, honeysuckle three product, plain gold four product, silver cymbal five product, plain silver six or seven product and black horn eight or nine product. In the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu, he went to court every morning and evening, attended lectures, thanked him and resigned as a military attache abroad. It is made into a right-handed robe, and the cloth is made of silk (satin fabric) or yarn, yarn and silk. The sleeves are three feet wide. One to four items of robes, five to seven items of blue robes and eight to nine items of green robes. Robes, belts and corsets are the same as the following eight categories. Public welfare pattern, single flower (group flower), 5 inches in diameter. Second, the flower family (small flower) with a diameter of 3 inches. The three kinds of scattered flowers have no branches and leaves (scattered flowers are omitted), and the diameter is 2 inches. Four or five small miscellaneous patterns with a diameter of 1 inch 5 minutes. Six or seven small miscellaneous flowers with a diameter of 1 inch. There is no food below grade 8. There are two kinds of hoes: paint and yarn, and the laying angle is 1 2 inch; First, it is stipulated that the hoe of miscellaneous officials does not need to show horns, and only two belts are hung; After the quasi-diffusion angle. Belt; A jade belt, two rhinoceros horns, three or four golden lychees, and less than five black horns (horns). Use cymbal cyan and hang it at the bottom. Black boots. Male, Hou, Xu and Bo wear the same color. When officials entered the DPRK, they promised to bring raincoats in case of rain and snow.
4. Uniforms for civil servants and officers
Anyone who often looks after things wears a uniform. The uniforms and official uniforms in the early Ming Dynasty were black and white hats, collars and belts. In the sixth year of Hongwu, it was stipulated that the first and second products should be mottled Wen Qi, Lingluo and colored embroidery, and the hat beads should be made of jade; The third to fifth products use variegated wenqi and Lingluo, the hat top is made of gold, except the hat beads are made of jade. Six to nine products are variegated silk and silk, and the top of the hat is silver, agate, crystal and fragrant wood. One to six products wear four-claw dragons (pythons), and gold embroidery is allowed. Hongwu was customized in the twenty-third year, and the clothes of civil servants were brought to future generations (Y Gong, Hou and Xu were both civil servants. The military attache is 5 inches to the ground, and his sleeves are 7 inches longer than his hands. Hongwu 24 years custom-made, male, Hou, Xu, Bo, embroidered Kirin, Bai Ze. Civil servants have a crane, a golden pheasant, a peacock, a goose, a silver pheasant, a crane and a crane. Eight kinds of orioles and nine kinds of quails. Miscellaneous magpie The official who serves first. There are one or two lions, three or four tigers and leopards, five bears, six or seven tigers, eight rhinos and nine seahorses. The above-mentioned uniforms are well-known costumes and official uniforms used in traditional operas. These different bird patterns and animal patterns are designed in a square frame, arranged on the front and back of the group collar shirt, and surrounded by a belt decorated with gold and jade, which is very spectacular.
In the Ming Dynasty, Volume 98 of "Supplement to the University Students' Extension of Justice" said: "I have customized it, and the quality officials have their own tricks. Gong, Hou, Xu, Bo and Bai Ze who embroidered Kirin are not among the civil and military; From grade one to grade nine, civil servants have their own models. Civil servants use birds, such as their literary talents, and military officers use animals, such as their raptors. " Then I said that the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty could be made by officials at all levels according to their grades and styles, unlike the Song Dynasty, when the government made them uniformly and distributed them regularly. Secret service can serve at the same time, but it cannot be arrogant. General civil servants can take it according to the system, and military officers often wear Hou Bo and Yipin clothes in violation of the system. From Xiongbi to Haima (that is, five to nine products), not only are there fewer people wearing them, but the people who do them are almost cut off.
5. All officials swallow it.
In the seventh year of Jiajing (A.D. 1528), Guan Yanfu was appointed as the loyal and quiet crown. Loyal to the monarch and quiet crown is based on the ancient clothing system in Duan Xuan. In view of the confusion of the dress system at that time, in the name of loyalty and tranquility, officials were encouraged to be loyal to their ideas and mend their ways after it was too late. Strengthen the ideological effect through clothing. The crown frame of Zhongjing Crown is wrapped in black gauze, and two mountain cutting tools are listed behind it. The crown is still slightly raised in the middle of the top. Each of the three beams is pressed with gold wire, and the crown edge is inlaid with gold foil. The edges of the four products are all pressed with light silk thread, not Phnom Penh. The style of clothes is antique, antique is right. The scholar's coat (sleeve) is 2 feet 2 inches, and the length of his clothes is 2 feet 2 inches. Straight cut, the color is mysterious, and the top and bottom skirt are separated. In the Ming Dynasty, it was made of dark blue silk or yarn and silk. There are more than three products for woven moire and less than four products for plain weave, supplemented by Lan Qing and decorative books on the front and back. Jade color, plain belt, plain shoes, white boots, used for deep clothes. All officials with seven grades or above in Beijing, officials with eight grades or above in imperial academy, imperial academy and People's Administration, foreign officials and government officials, state and county purlins, and Confucian instructors and military attaché s with eight grades or above in Beijing are allowed to wear them.
6. python suit, flying fish suit and bullfighting suit
The decorative patterns of these three kinds of clothes are similar to the dragon armor worn by the emperor. Not included in the official uniform system, it was given by eunuchs and Zaifu in the Ming Dynasty. It is considered a great honor to receive such a gift.
Shen Ming Telford's Supplement to Wan Ye Li said in Volume II: "A python's clothes are like a dragon's clothes, similar to the royal robe of the Supreme Court, but with one claw missing." In the first year of Dade (A.D. 1297), Volume 58 of Yuan said, "The satin sold in the market is like a dragon worn by an emperor, with only one claw missing. The four-claw seller is playing (playing). " It shows that there were four-claw dragon satin robes (that is, embroidered robes) on the market in the early Yuan Dynasty. "The History of the Ming Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi" records official uniforms, saying that after Yongle (after AD 1403), "eunuchs around the emperor must wear pythons, ... embroidered with pythons and tied with ribbons. ..... Time is a flying fish ... The face of a single python is oblique, and the face of a sitting python is positive, which is particularly expensive. Those who have knees are also like draggers (called gold draggers) with pythons on them. When the knees are woven horizontally, the thin cloud python covers the hills in the southern suburbs, which is convenient for riding. Or "seeing face", which is used by the monarch and his subjects instead of official clothes. The first (but) python has five claws and four claws and red Huang Zhi ears. " According to this record, there is a single python among the pythons, that is, two rows of pythons are embroidered on the skirt. There are sitting pythons, that is, in addition to the two walking pythons with left and right lapels, it is a noble style to add sitting pythons on the chest and back. As for Tusa, it is a kind of robe-skirt-style dress, with python pattern on the front chest and back, and horizontal cloud python pattern on the knee of the robe skirt, which is called knee strap.
Flying fish, according to Shan Hai Jing, is shaped like a dolphin and written in red. If you don't take it, you can resist the soldiers. " This is a myth. Lin Ji said: "Flying fish is round, more than ten feet long, with heavy feathers and wings like cicadas." It is a mythical animal with a dragon's head, wings and fishtail shape.
Bullfighting was once a star in the sky. Zhang Hua Biography of the Book of Jin said that when Emperor Hui of Jin, Zhang Hua, the marquis of Guangwu, often saw purple gas between bullfights. Please be familiar with the thunder ring of astronomy to ask. Lei Huan said that it was the essence of Fengcheng Sword, and it was in the soul of heaven. Let Lei Huan become the Knights of Fengcheng. When Huan arrived, he dug up the foundation of the prison and got a stone letter with two swords engraved with the words Longquan and Taiya. One is to send China and the other is to admire him. After Zhang Hua was killed, the sword suddenly disappeared. After Lei Huan's death, his son crossed Yeonpyeong-jin with a sword and the boat reached the river. The sword suddenly jumped out and fell into the water. But when I saw Erlong entangled in an article and the water boiled, I lost my sword. In the Ming dynasty, bullfighting clothes were in the shape of horns and dragons.
In the Ming Dynasty, only the emperor and his relatives were allowed to wear the clothes of the five-claw golden dragon. In the late Ming Dynasty, some important officials and dignitaries also wore the clothes of the five-claw golden dragon, which was called "Python Dragon". After the downfall of Yan Song, the prime minister of Jiajing, thousands of silk fabrics and various luxurious clothes were confiscated in Fenyi County, Jiangxi Province, Yan Song's hometown. "Tianshui Iceberg Record" records the list of stolen property in Yan Song's home, including five-claw Yunlong over-the-shoulder makeup festival (satin) and various colors of python-dragon fabrics. Such as pythons and dragons, over-the-shoulder pythons and dragons. Python, python patch, Over-the-Shoulder python, Over-the-Shoulder Cloud Python, Hundred Flowers Python; Bullfighting, bullfighting, over-the-shoulder bullfighting, over-the-shoulder bullfighting; All kinds of clothes, such as flying fish, flying fish stickers, flying fish over the shoulders, flying fish sleeves, etc. Round neck, robe, coat, women's dress, gown, coat, cloak, etc. And woven fabrics, that is, clothing fabrics woven according to the structure of clothing styles. In the Ming Dynasty, pythons and bullfighting clothes were found in Weizikeng, Nanyuan, Beijing, Bancang Village, Taiping Gate, Nanjing, and the Ming Tombs in the suburbs of Guangzhou.
In the first year of Hongwu, there must be a daughter of nine flowers, nine temples and nine cymbals. Wearing Zhai clothing embroidered with 9 pairs of Zhai birds, plain yarn with single collar and checkered collar, and cinnabar inlays on cuffs and skirts. Knee covered with embroidered two pairs of birds. Jade belt, ribbon and blue socks. Second, the crown flower hairpin 8 trees, 2 rich temples, 8 cymbals. Wear eight pairs of bird embroidered clothes and rhinoceros belts, and the rest are the same. Three products, crown flower hairpin 7 trees, two rich temples, seven cymbals. Seven pairs of embroidered birds, gold leather belts, and the rest are second-class. Four products, crown flower hairpin 6 trees, two rich temples, six cymbals. Six pairs of embroidered birds, gold leather belts, and the rest are like three products. The following five to seven products are 1 product, 1 tree reduction, 1 cymbal reduction, 1 embroidered bird reduction. Belt with black angle belt. From the first product to the fifth product, the clothes are all purple with husband color, and the sixth and seventh products are all purple with husband color. A big belt is like a dress.
In the fourth year of Hongwu, because the civil and military officials changed into Liang Guanjiang robes, they didn't need crowns and the maids didn't need to wear clothes, so they changed into Shan Songte bun, fake bangs, Zhen Hong big sleeves, Zhu Cuijin and Xia Dian robes. Take the pearl green horn crown, the golden pearl hairpin and the wide-sleeved variegated green skirt as the Yanju clothing. Yipin, gold embroidered robe, gold beads, jade pendant. Two, embroidered gold, cloud shoulders, flowers, gold ornaments, gold pendant clothes. Sanpin, embroidered gold clothes, large miscellaneous flowers, pearl ornaments, gold pendants. Four products, embroidered small miscellaneous flowers, jade ornaments, gold pendants. Five, clothing sales gold (mixed with gold powder to paint flowers) big miscellaneous flowers under the post, raw color painting silk flower decoration, gold pendant. Six products, seven products, clothes sold in gold, small miscellaneous flowers, colored silk, floral ornaments, gold and silver pendants. Eight products, nine products, clothes, lycopene, Luo, colored silk ornaments and silver pendants. Jewelry: one product and two products, rich in jade. Three products and four products, Jin Zhuyu. Five kinds of gold and jade. Below level 6, gold inlaid with silver beads. In the fifth year, Hongwu changed his official life-women's crown service. First-class dress: the headdress is Songshan special bun, Cuisong five strains, Jinzhaiba, and the mouth is beaded. Four flowers on the front, four flowers on the front, three flowers on the back, one shuttle ball on the back, four combs on the front, one comb on Jinyun, one comb on bead curtain, and one pair of two shuttle rings on gold hairpin. The clothes are Zhen Hong big sleeve shirts, dark blue iron and chiffon, and the materials are silk, twill, silk and yarn. On the Bi Xia, there are gold embroidered clouds and Zhai patterns, as well as gold pendants. Put gold embroidered clouds on scorpions. First-class service: the headdress adopts Zhucui Qingyun View, Zhucui Zhai 3, Jinzhai 1, and beading at the mouth. There are 2 beaded flowers on the temples, 1 a pair of small beaded combs, 1 a pair of Jinyuntou with three hairpins, 2 pairs of double-headed golden temples, 1 a pair of golden brain combs, 2 gold pins, 1 a pair of golden beaded Buddha's face rings. Bracelets and bracelets are all gold. The clothes are long coats and long skirts, and the materials are all kinds of silk, silk, silk and yarn. The long coat is inlaid with purple or green edges, embroidered with larks and embroidered with red, green and purple on the belt. This long skirt is embroidered with golden branches. The second-class dress is the same as the first-class dress except that there is 1 golden bird with beads on the special bun. The second product is also the same as the first product.
Triple dress: Golden Peacock 6 pairs of special bun, and beads tied in the mouth. The front pearl peacock is 1, and the back peacock is 2. On Xia Pei, the peacock pattern of Jin Xiayun was applied. Yellow gold pendant. Golden embroidered clouds and peacock patterns on raccoons. I am the same as two products. Triple service, crowned Pearl Peacock 3, Golden Peacock 2, Beaded Beads in the Mouth. Long coat, purple or green, embroidered with Xia Yun peacock pattern, long skirt embroidered with branches, the rest are the same as the second product. There is 1 golden peacock on the special bun of the fourth-class dress, which is the same as that of the third-class dress. Four products are the same as three products.
Five-level dress: silver-plated mandarin duck with a special bun and beads in its mouth. There are 1 pearls on the front, 3 Cui Yun flowers on the bead shop, 1 pearls on the back temples, 1 silver-plated Yuntou three hairpin, 1 pearl curtain comb, 2 gold-plated silver hairpin, 1 pearl curtain comb ring. Bi Xia is embroidered with clouds and mandarin ducks, as well as gold-plated silver cymbals. Raccoons are painted with Xia Yun mandarin ducks. I have the same four products. Five-product uniforms are crowned with three pearl-green mandarin ducks, two gold-plated silver mandarin ducks and pearl-picking cards. There are two small beaded flowers on the temple, 1 is a cloud-headed three hairpin, 1 is a comb, two are double-headed hairpin pressing on the temple, two are gold-plated hairpin, and 1 is a silver-footed beaded Buddha face ring. Bracelets and cymbals are silver and gold plated. The dress is a long coat embroidered with Xia Yun Yuanyang pattern and a long skirt embroidered with tangled branches. I have the same five products.
Six-grade and seven-grade dresses: three emerald pines on a special jewelry bun, four silver-plated sparrows, and beads in their mouths. Silver-plated sparrow 1 4 on the front, cuisuo ball on the back temples 1, cuisparrow 2, cuicha 4, yinyuntou Liansanchai 1, pearl-edged cuilian comb 1, and silver hairpin 2. The clothes are embroidered with silk, silk, silk sleeves, clouds, sparrows and silver pendants. Stone practice is the bird pattern on the scorpion, and the rest are the same as the five products. Six or seven uniforms were crowned with 3 gold-plated silver training magpies and 2 gold-plated silver training magpies, with small beads, silver bracelets and cymbals. The dress is a long coat with edges, purple or green embroidered with clouds and magpies, and the long skirt embroidered with tangled branches. I have the same five products.
Class-89 dress: jewelry is a Pearl Qingyun crown, 3 silver-plated training magpies, 2 silver-plated training magpies, 1 pearl brand, 3 silver-plated tripod 1 one, 2 silver-plated double hair clips, 1 silver-plated brain comb 1 one and 2 silver-plated hair clips. Clothes are big sleeves, robes, embroidery, silver pendants and embroidery. A long coat, embroidered with branches on the lapel side, the rest are the same as the seven products. Hongwu five years, custom-made women's team shirts, with red Luo as the horse and embroidered with bird patterns. Grade 9 (OK), Grade 8, Grade 7, Grade 6 and Grade 3. The rest need not be embroidered.
In the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu, it was stipulated that the collar width of the big sleeve shirt was 3 inches, with two collars straight down 1 ft, three buttons in the middle and two buttons at the end, which were buckled under the cover. 2 turtles, each embroidered with the pattern of 7 birds, the first 4, the last 3, 1 flower in the pendant, surrounded by clouds. Birds, such as midges, are used with this level. In the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu, some changes were made to the official uniforms of the Ming government, mainly simplifying the crown ornaments. For example, the crown of a first-class Ming mansion is Zhu Zhai 5, the beginning of a pearl peony is 2, the pearl is half-opened 3, and the Cui Yun is 24. The leaves of the jade peony are 18, the cuikou circle is 1, the Golden Palace is 8 flowers, the Golden House is 2 flowers, and the mouth is 2 beads. Four pearls are used for the second to fourth grades, two pearls start with peony, four pearls are half-opened, 24 Cui Yun, 18 emerald peony leaves, 1 cuikouhuan, eight golden flowers, two golden beads and two mouth beads. The first and second products, Xiatie and Xunzi, all have clouds and peacock patterns, and the flowers are gold pendants. Three, four, five and six Pin Guan beads, including two beads with peony at the beginning, five half-open beads, 24 Cui Yun, 65,438+08 leaves of jade peony, 65,438+0 pairs of jade rings, eight gold (gold powder) painted silver flowers, two gold and silver beads and two beads in the mouth. Wupin, Xiatie, Xunzi with Xia Yun Yuanyang pattern, gold-plated silver pendant. Six products, the next iron, Xunzi has lark patterns, silver chandeliers. Seven to nine grades, 2 crown pearls, 2 laurel pearls, 6 half-opened pearls, 24 Cui Yun, 4 laurel leaves 18 tablets, 4 emerald clasp 1 pair, 8 gold and silver diamond-encrusted flowers and 2 gold and silver beads in the mouth. The seven-level underground iron is the same as the six-level underground iron. Eight products, nine products, embroidery, pendants and seven products are all the same. Embroider branches and flowers. Branch-picking flowers are the flower heads of one or two leaves, and group flowers are patterns with circular outlines on the outer ring. The difference between a twig-picking flower and a twig-breaking flower is that a twig-breaking flower is a long branch, while a twig-picking flower is just a flower head with several leaves.
The complex and prosperous crown ornaments and foot-binding habits of the Ming Dynasty all had the special mentality of restraining women's rights and oppressing women in feudal society. A complicated and heavy crown is too heavy for a woman to lift her head and squint. Deformed feet made women walk hard since childhood, but they also covered up the truth that feudal ethics destroyed women with a "beautiful" coat. Reviewing this history should arouse the vigilance of modern women.