Tracing back to the origin of western hoodies, we should follow the track of the development of university education in continental Europe and trace it back to medieval western Europe. The development of university education in western Europe is the result of the influence of medieval life. In the early Middle Ages, the Roman Empire perished, the splendid classical culture of Greece and Rome was destroyed and rapidly weakened, once prosperous cities disappeared from people's sight, and various educational institutions disappeared. Roman Christian Church became the main inheritor and disseminator of ancient culture. By the twelfth century, due to the development of Christianity, a large number of clergy were needed to help bishops manage their parishes. So monasteries, archdiocesan schools and parish schools appeared one after another. The archdiocese school is located in the archdiocese, and the parish school is located in the village where the clergy are located. The church uses these places to educate priests and monks on the basics of reading, writing, calculation and teaching. They adopted some achievements of classical culture and gradually formed a learning course called "Seven Arts" (grammar, rhetoric, logic, arithmetic, geometry, music and astronomy). In Italy, the teachers in these schools are called doctors (from Latin doctoreum, meaning teachers), while in Paris, teachers are called masters (from Latin mage, meaning teachers, masters).

At that time, handicraft industry flourished, gradually separated from agriculture, and commerce also developed, re-forming a city centered on handicraft industry and commerce, and various handicraft trade associations and commercial guilds appeared. These guilds have strict organization and rules and regulations, and have considerable independent management rights. With the development of the school, more and more teachers are called masters or doctors. Teachers from all over the country follow the example of handicraft and commercial trade associations and organize teachers' trade associations. Students organize themselves into fellow villagers' associations to manage their own affairs. They all call themselves guild universities (from Latin Universitals, meaning * * * homophonic), so the word university has become synonymous with all educational centers. In other words, the original university institution is the guild organization of these teachers and students. Teachers of the same major in the same guild form a special professional guild, which is called faculty or professors' association (from Latin faculty as, which means ability, that is, the ability to teach a certain subject). Later, the meaning of the word faculty was extended to a university branch (college) that teaches a certain department of knowledge. In Bologna, northern Italy, the two earliest universities in the Middle Ages-Bologna University and Salle University were established, followed by Paris University and Oxford University.

These early college students have to organize classes, but the school will not take the exam. Only those students who decide to be teachers in the future will be tested by the school. The first step in the examination process is to give them a series of private and public pre-tests. Candidates who pass the exam should wear monk robes and sit with their classmates (bachelor, from Latin baccahalar, meaning bachelor). Then there will be a wine feast provided by candidates who have successfully passed the exam. This is the embryonic form of the student graduation ceremony. But to become a master or a doctor (there was no difference between a doctor and a master at that time, both meant teacher and master), it took two to three years of study and passed a strict final exam.

In medieval Europe, men and women in towns wore robes. Cold halls and drafty buildings force people to wear robes that reach the floor and are connected to hoods (hoods, also called vests). The raw materials and colors of these robes and headscarves are determined by their wealth and social status. Because scholars in early universities were missionaries, their clothes should be consistent with their status in monasteries, wearing khaki robes and headscarves to protect their heads. As a result, this monk's black robe and headscarf has evolved into a popular costume in universities today, which should be worn not only at school graduation ceremonies, but also at other major celebrations.

Later, robes and headscarves began to use brighter colors, and different degrees of dresses gradually became somewhat different. The differences of dressing styles among bachelor, master and doctor mainly appear in headscarves. After a period of time, the headscarf is no longer connected with the robe, but becomes an item alone, and people wear it on their heads. In the 15th century, hats became popular, and headscarves almost became decorations. When people put them on, they put them down from the top of their heads along their necks, hung them on their shoulders and hung them on their backs. Therefore, the school cap came into being. The original school hat shape originated from the symbol of master's degree. There are several different shapes, some are round, some are square, and some have a cluster of ornaments in the center of the hat. Today's tassels are developed on this basis, only more refined. Oxford University first adopted a flat-topped and low-square hat, but the folk suggested that the school hat should be made into the shape of a book by scholars, which would better reflect its academic significance and be more bookish.

In the United States, Harvard University took the lead in putting on school uniforms, and then universities used them one after another, but the styles were different from those still in use in Europe, and there were differences among schools. 1895, representatives of various schools met to formulate uniform clothing styles, 1903 produced the uniform standard system of American university dresses, and 1936 and 1960 were revised twice. Therefore, today's popular dress codes in American universities are the same, but they are slightly different in some details such as colors.

The dress consists of three parts: robe, square hat and headscarf. The robes of doctors and masters are black, and the robes of associate students are gray. Bachelor's robe, pointed sleeves, and the front is not open; The owner's robes, square sleeves and cuffs are curved; The doctor's robe, flared sleeves and chest buttons are lined with velvet welts with a width of 5 inches, and three parallel velvet welts are sewn horizontally on the sleeves. The color is black or other colors, which is the symbol of subject category. The hat is a square "Oxford hat", which can be worn by people of all educational backgrounds. There is a beautiful tassel hanging on the left side of the hat. The color of the tassel indicates the department where the degree is awarded.

The headscarf can best reflect the degree level. Its size and shape vary according to the degree. The higher the degree, the larger the size and the more exquisite the workmanship. The outer layer of the headscarf is matched with the black material of the robe, and the inner lining is folded out in the color of the university representative. The color of velvet welt indicates the theme category. China's modern square hat, robe and mandarin jacket are totally imported. At first, the hooded robe was an accessory of the western Jesuits and Catholic missionaries in China, which made people come into contact with this kind of dress very early. The appearance of hoodies in China has a certain historical and social origin and background, not from colleges and universities. Italian P. Matthoeussricci was the first Jesuit missionary who preached in China under the guise of science and education. Zongshen came to Beijing in the 29th year of Wanli (A.D. 160 1), which initially opened the door to China. Therefore, in 1735, Father Dominic Palenning wrote: "In order to attract their attention, we need to win their respect and trust through natural science knowledge. There is no better way for them to focus on the basic truth. " Therefore, science has become a bait and an important means to realize the original intention of missionaries in China.

After the Opium War, with the third collision between Chinese and Western cultures (also known as blending), not only missionaries came to China with hoodies, but also China students studying in Europe who obtained their degrees abroad returned home with hoodies or photos of hoodies, which aroused strong repercussions in China's intellectual circles. At this time, missionary schools have mushroomed all over China, although more of them are not institutions of higher learning. By 1877, there were about 350 missionary schools with 5975 students in China. By 1889, the number of students in missionary schools had reached 16836, and by 1906, it had soared to 57683. At that time, Francis Lister F. Lhankspott, president of St. John's University in Shanghai, compared missionary schools to "WestPoints" in the United States, which were necessary strategic institutions for missionary work. As the preacher said, "if preaching is not based on our educational work, it is like building a house in the sand, which is unstable."

Here, education is not only bait, but also a soft weapon besides foreign guns. With the emergence of modern science in China, hoodies originated in Europe found their own new growth soil.

At the beginning of this century, hats and robes have been divided into two factions abroad: one is the European faction represented by Italy and Britain, the so-called "European faction"; One school is represented by the United States, the so-called "American school", and some people call it the "new school". Hats and robes, a European-style city, have basically maintained the style and features of the Middle Ages, with obvious traces of "belief times" in both style and color. The "American School" mentioned in the appendix was created on the basis of Oxford University and Cambridge University. Compared with British hats and dresses, the hats and dresses designed by Gardner Leonard give people a concise and lively impression, and contain more flavor of the times. Because many missionaries came to China from the United States, hoodies first belonged to the "American school" in China.

When people have a comprehensive understanding of hoodie, it will attract more people's attention and interest, because it fully embodies a spiritual pursuit of intellectuals, a strong desire to shape their own image, and a determination to constantly create the future and self. We should have our own hats, robes and dress styles. As a result, the shape, style and wearing style of hoodies have been boldly reformed and created, and gradually become our own clothing culture, and integrated into the colorful China clothing. China's hat robe was thus produced.

According to records, China's hoodies appeared in the mid-1920s, or earlier. Seven medical doctors have worn it. The hats and gowns of these seven medical doctors were like the robes and jackets that were popular at that time. The hem of the long skirt reaches to the ankle. The big and fat sleeves cover almost all the hands, only revealing the graduation certificate that has been fighting for it for several spring and autumn periods. Unlike "American schools", the sleeves are not marked with any degree level. The front of the double-breasted robe has a wide black velvet trim on the left and right. They remind people of the "new schools" where many doctors dress, which is one of the signs that American hoodies are different from those in Europe. Soft and three-dimensional black velvet, deep and elegant, not only shows the demeanor of a doctor, but also shows the composure and demeanor of a scholar. The black belt was borrowed by us and became an important part of hoodie China. However, the most distinctive feature of these doctoral uniforms in China is not the clothes themselves, but the matching and exposed stand-up collar student uniforms. The root of the problem lies in the fact that students' dress is a typical dress at the beginning of this century, which is based on the original double-breasted coat in China and influenced by "Western learning spreading to the east". Because most male students often wear it (just as female students are characterized by wearing improved cheongsam), it has gradually become a specific school uniform for male students. According to common sense, whether it is "European" or "American" hoodies, it is "reasonable" and "appropriate" for men to wear straight suits inside, but these China doctors, together with foreign doctors, are students wearing double-breasted collars. Hats and robes in Taiwan Province Province have taken a step towards China. Small stand-up collar is no longer an integral part of students' clothing, and it constitutes an indispensable feature of China's hat robe.

And the way they contain square caps is unique. The corner of the square hat top is not placed in front like foreign countries, but presents a horizontal line that is coordinated with the overall clothing style. This is the expression of personality and the creation of dressing style. In addition, there is no tassel on the top of the hat to mark the degree. Maybe they think it's redundant or tedious.

It can be seen that China's reform and innovation of western hoodies began at the beginning of this century. In historical documents, the names of these brave designers are not left, but their works provide valuable information for us to explore the origin of China's hoodies. In 1930s and 1940s, bachelor's and master's uniforms were mostly improved. The neckline is deep and V-shaped. Without the square hat on their heads, their clothing is almost the same as that of men's robes in the late Qing Dynasty.

For a long time after the founding of New China, we didn't have our own hoodies. The reason is simple: the degree system has not been established and implemented. Although the degree system was conceived twice in 1950s and 1960s, the hoodie problem was never considered. 1980 the National People's Congress Standing Committee (NPCSC) passed the Regulations on Academic Degrees in People's Republic of China (PRC), which was implemented in 198 1 year. New China has its own degree system. However, at the beginning of the implementation of this system, the hoodie problem was not put on the agenda.

With the establishment and acceptance of the new China degree system, especially with the deepening and expansion of reform and opening up, people vaguely feel that our degree system is missing something. New China's own hats and robes are budding. Clothing art is not restricted by the state. We have our own hats and robes. Then, in the late 1980s, hats and gowns appeared on some university campuses, which were either imitations or designs.

Modern hoodies have a history of nearly 100 years in China, but due to social and political factors, hoodies disappeared in China and were gradually forgotten by people. With the establishment of the new degree system in China and the continuous expansion of China's reform, opening-up and foreign exchange, hoodies began to appear on university campuses and gradually became a beautiful campus landscape. At the same time, the research work on hoodies has also begun.

Spontaneity is not equal to consciousness. The Academic Degrees Committee of the State Council, the highest institution leading academic degree work in China, is paying close attention to this situation. 1992, the State Council Academic Degrees Committee decided to organize research on hoodies as soon as possible. The State Council Academic Degrees Committee Office was ordered to carry out research work nationwide, and formed a joint research group with Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology to carry out a special study on "Building a Modern Hood System in China".

On the basis of in-depth study and extensive solicitation of opinions, 1994, the the State Council Academic Degrees Committee approved the new China's hat and robe style, and made a decision: as a unified standard, hat and robe were recommended to the national degree-granting units, and all other hat and robe styles were abolished.