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Although I am not a "famous mountain traveler", I have traveled all over the country and visited many famous mountains and rivers for decades. This time, I took the opportunity of attending the "China Dictionary Conference" to take a trip to Huangshan Mountain, where the sky pushes the Han Dynasty, the rocks are rugged, the cliffs are towering, and the weather is myriad. I climbed to the top from Qian Shan at an altitude of 186 meters, and enjoyed the "herringbone waterfall", "Baizhang Spring", "Book Case Peak" and "Tiandu Peak" In my opinion, Huangshan Mountain is a combination of the majestic Mount Tai, the beautiful Wuyi Mountain, the steep Huashan Mountain, the waterfalls in Kuanglu, the blue smoke in Heng Yue and the rugged wild geese ... It is really a collection of famous mountains in China. If it hadn't lived in seclusion in the mountainous areas of southern Anhui, the old traffic was inconvenient and tourists were scarce, its reputation would have been far above the above-mentioned famous mountains.

The famous Travels of Xu Xiake also wrote about his two trips to Huangshan Mountain. Unfortunately, the season of his first visit to Huangshan Mountain was in severe winter. The mountains were covered with snow and ice, and the rocks were frozen layer by layer, which was very slippery. Be fascinated by dense fog, mountains and canyons, block your sight, and don't see much. The travel notes of the second mountaineering (namely "Diary of Huangshan Tour (After)") are relatively brief, only recording the tour process and rarely describing the scenery in the mountains. It can be said that Xu Xiake only wrote down the "danger" of Huangshan, but did not write down the "wonder" and "beauty" of Huangshan, which made people feel the fly in the ointment.

Among the travels of Huangshan written by the ancients, I think Liu Dahuai, an essayist in the Qing Dynasty, is more vivid, detailed and informative. Liu Dahuai lived in Huangshan for six days. Perhaps because of the weather, he only saw the sea of clouds three times, but he didn't see the wonders of the rising sun on the balcony, and he didn't have a chance to see many famous scenic spots in the mountain. As he himself said, "The rest of the reporters reported the mountain in this way. If its peak is too steep to climb, the strange rocks in the deep spring can't be seen ... It's different from the special scenery of morning and evening, rainy and cold summer, spring flowers and winter snow ... "That's the truth. As for Zhiheng Pan's Lotus Peak and Daokun Wang's Memories of Time Past, what they recorded was only nine Niu Yi hairs. Of course, some of them are still worth reading (waterfall sound, spring sound and wind sound), and they are rich in colors (mountain color, tree color and cloud color).

We are now visiting Huangshan Mountain, and the conditions are definitely much better than those of the ancients. First of all, after liberation, the newly built Panshan Highway goes directly to Huangshan Hotel, which is more than 600 meters above sea level, saving us one-third of the journey. Secondly, the journey from Huangshan Hotel (hot spring) to the top of the mountain is about 30 Li. The restored rock climbing frame is generally more than a foot wide and the stone surface is quite flat. There is no danger that "the stone can't be taken by the whole foot, but the toe can be taken before", so we must "know the snake without overdoing it". Moreover, in particularly steep places such as "Careful Slope", "Aoyu Cave" and "Necromancer Temple", there are also safety devices such as railings and chains for handrails. As long as tourists remain vigilant and cautious, there will generally be no accidents. Besides, there is now a place to stay every 15 days along the mountain, providing meals and cotton-padded clothes (the temperature difference between mountains is about 20 degrees), so climbers don't have to pack food and carry water, and they don't have to bring warm clothes, which reduces a lot of burdens.

Of course, to say "danger", the mountain road in Huangshan is really steep. Especially the "crucian carp back" section, although the distance is not very long, it is a cliff hanging on one side and an abyss on the other. When you pass this mountain road, you must step by step, hold the cliff tightly, and never overlook the abyss, otherwise not only the pedestrians will be frightened, but also the onlookers will sweat. Another example is "the view of the sky", which goes through a narrow passage with two walls in the middle, reaching dozens of feet. It's really "the sky can't hold a few feet of light, and the road can't hold two people's toes." I feel a little gloomy and dizzy when I look up. If you have a heart attack or neurasthenia, you may be at a loss. Therefore, Huangshan Hotel will generally do a "physical examination" in advance for elderly tourists who want to climb the summit from Qian Shan. If the "physical examination" is unqualified and hypertension or coronary heart disease is found, it is recommended to climb the mountain from Houshan. Fifteen miles from the starting point of Houshan is a flat road, very flat; Although the last fifteen miles are also rocky, the slope is not as steep as the mountain in front, so it is easier to walk. Of course, most of the scenic spots in Huangshan Mountain are concentrated in Qianshan Mountain. If you climb from the back hill, you can't see the wonders scattered everywhere except the part near the summit.

There are more than 20 people in our party, some of whom are over 500 years old and some are even over 60 years old. To climb the steep slope of 1200 meters with all one's strength, some people think it is a bit overreaching. Especially after the Yuping Building halfway up the mountain, the slope is steeper and steeper, and the mountain road is more and more rugged. In some sections, both hands and feet can barely climb up. But in any case, we finally made it to the top, and all the staff were safe and refreshed. It can be seen that Chairman Mao's statement that "nothing is difficult in the world, if you put your mind to it" is indeed a famous saying of truth and thought-provoking.

This time I climbed from Qian Shan to the back hill in two and a half days. Except for the light rain on the first day, the last two days were sunny, and I finally saw most of the main scenery of Huangshan, which was much luckier than Xu Xiake and Liu Dakui. In my opinion, the wonder of Huangshan lies in the rocks, pines and sea of clouds.

In Huangshan Mountain, the strangeness of stones is almost inseparable. For example, "Penglai Three Islands" are three jagged stone peaks standing at the foot of Tiandu. On the mountain peak, there are several pine trees with rich business experience, swaying in the wind and graceful, with branches and leaves hidden in the clouds. It really seems like an elusive sea fairy mountain. Another example is "dream pen gives birth to flowers", which is located near Beihai Hotel, surrounded by thousands of peaks and white clouds. Its shape is like a rough brush, and its peak is like a pen tip. A pine tree spirals out from the top of the stone, and the dense pine needles are like quill pens. This is a natural coincidence.

In fact, the wonder of turquoise is not uncommon in other famous mountains. The most magnificent is the sea of clouds in Huangshan Mountain. My mountaineering season is in early September and autumn. It's clear and rainy in Chu, blue sky and deep valleys, misty and endless, just like the undulating sea. Mountain peaks far and near, like islands, are hidden in the foggy sea of clouds. White clouds come and go, and the competition seems to be surging, the mountain wind rises and the pines roar, which is a bit like the tide lapping on the shore. I admire the person who created the name "Sea of Clouds". His imagination is really rich. It is hard for us to think of any word that can describe the reality of Huangshan more vividly than the name "sea of clouds" At ordinary times, the sea of clouds is uncertain, unpredictable and full of weather, but what impresses me most is the sea of clouds seen when the sun rises. At 4 o'clock in the morning on September 12, I got up, put on my cotton-padded clothes and went straight to the balcony at an altitude of 1700 meters. This platform stands out from the crowd on the dangerous rocks facing the sky on three sides. I can lean against the stone railing and overlook all the scenery around the West Sea of Huangshan Mountain. We waited for about half an hour at dawn, only to see the rising sun showing a small corner, reflecting the morning glow. It's like molten steel just poured out of a blast furnace, so radiant that people dare not open their eyes and look directly at it. After a while, the red sun rose gradually, shining in the sea of clouds, colorful and brilliant. At that time, it happened that there was a strong mountain wind. Clouds are spreading, and the peaks and valleys are green. They are flickering in the colorful sea of clouds and changing rapidly, just like the patterns on brocade, each with a different style. This shadow glow is hard to see even in color pictures and movies. Compared with watching the sunrise on the top of Mount Tai, the Jade Emperor seems to be more colorful, at least with a different flavor.

Overlooking the rising sun floating in the sea of clouds, it is refreshing and high-spirited, and it reminds people of our great motherland. It has become more and more prosperous since it smashed the Gang of Four and set things right. The game is like the sunrise at five or six o'clock, generate on the horizon. Not only will we not be kicked out of football again, but we will also occupy a pivotal position on this earth. Such a great country and great nation is worthy of this earth-shaking era and this boundless universe. Just when I was thinking, I felt warm all over under the background of dizziness, as if every cell was burning with revolutionary enthusiasm.

Huangshan Mountain covers an area of about 1200 square kilometers, and there are as many as 72 peaks (36 big peaks and 36 small peaks). In addition, there are hot springs, waterfalls, temples, pavilions and other places of interest, countless. What I mentioned in this short travel note is only a small part, and leakage is inevitable. It is said that there are many excellent scenery in Houhai area of Huangshan Mountain, but for one thing, time is limited, and for another, only thorny mountain roads can pass, and there are few people inside, so they dare not take risks.

Finally, it is worth mentioning that Huangshan is very rich in natural resources, with pine and fir trees and dense tea and bamboo. We know more than one hundred kinds of Chinese herbal medicines. As for wild animals, the bears, leopards, elk and goats recorded in the book have disappeared in Qian Shan, but squirrels and monkeys can be seen everywhere, jumping and playing in trees without fear of people. Because Huangshan is a forbidden area for hunting and logging, the mountain road is rugged and difficult to walk. There are no villages and families on the mountain. Except for tea, it seems that all other products have not been collected, so it is a pity to let them die and rot in the jungle. In fact, as long as there is a planned and step-by-step collection, it will not destroy the mountain capacity.

About the author: Huang, a modern writer and literary critic. 19 18 was born in Hong Kong. In middle school, he attended a school run by Irish people. 1935 was admitted to the Chinese Department of Tsinghua University in Beiping and took an active part in the "December 9th" movement. 1936, joined the China * * * production party. From 65438 to 0937, he went to Guangdong and worked in military and underground work in the Eighth Route Army Office and other departments. 194 1 year later, I edited several magazines. During the war of liberation, I did military work. After liberation, he served as the head of the creative and publishing group of Guangzhou Military Management Committee, the editorial board of Nanfang Daily, the editorial board of Yangcheng Evening News and the acting director of Xinhua News Agency Fujian Branch. /kloc-in the autumn of 0/954, he was transferred to the Chinese Writers Association and served as the editorial board of Literature Learning. 1959, served as deputy director of the editorial department of the newspaper. He is currently a member of the Chinese Writers Association, a member of the Guangdong Federation of Literary and Art Circles, a director of the Guangdong Branch of the Chinese Writers Association, and a deputy director of the Guangdong Publishing Bureau. He is responsible for the compilation and publication of Chinese and foreign dictionaries. His main works include prose collection, reportage collection, resentment, children's literature work, Uncle Gao Shiqi's story, literary criticism collection, and ancient and modern collection. Here, I also co-translated romain rolland's novel Battle.