(1) Shantou
During the Qin and Han Dynasties, people with high status in China were all men in their twenties, wearing crowns and hats, while people with low status wore hats, which were originally a kind of Baotou cloth used to tie their hair. In Kansai, it is called Luotou, in South Chu and Hunan, it is called Rakou, and between Zhao and Wei in Hebei, it is called Youtou, or steamed bun. When it is used, the towel cloth is tied in a bun from the back of the head and tied on the forehead, so that the two corners of the towel cloth are tilted on the forehead for natural decoration, which is considered as a beautiful dress among young men at that time, so the poem "Walking in the Southeast Corner of the Sunrise" in Yuefu has the sentence "When a teenager sees Luo Fu, take off his hat". Since the Eastern Han Dynasty, some people with status have covered their heads with relatively complete towels. In the first year of Zheng Xuan in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, the method of shawl was standardized, and soap yarn was used as the uniform. Northern Zhou book? Emperor Wu Ji said: "The system is now folded corner towel." Corner-folded towel is to fold one corner of the towel and wrap it backwards from the forehead, tie two corners behind the head, and the remaining corner naturally hangs behind the head, just like some women wrap headscarves now. However, the pottery figurines unearthed from Sui Xiaohe Tomb in Sanyuan, Shaanxi, Sui Tomb in Xiangyin, Hunan and Sui Tomb. 20 1 Majiafen, Anyang, Henan, has a towel wrapped on its head. Two corners are tied at the back of the head and droop naturally like ribbons, and the other two corners are tied on it for decoration. This form became the original hoe. In the Song Dynasty, Yu Yan wrote in the book Tan Tan on the Seats, "The scarf made by Emperor Wu of Zhou hung on two corners, and there was no belt at first." Meet the above situation. Furthermore, Shen Kuo in Song Dynasty said in Meng Qian's Bi Tan: "A hoe is called four-legged, with four belts. The second belt hangs from the back of the head, and the second belt is tied to the head, making the twists and turns attached to the top. " Why do you want to tie straps on the four corners of the hoe? The reason is that the previous hoe was worn on the head, with flat pleats at the top and straps at the four corners. After two corners are tied behind the head, they naturally hang down and become decorations, and the other two corners turn back to the front to climb the bun, which can make them rise and increase their beauty. The hoe of the pottery figurines unearthed from the Sui tomb in Yuejiazui, East Lake, Wuhan, can be seen as a bun rising. In the Tang Dynasty, it was popular in society to comb a high-crowned bun, so the hoe was lined with a towel (a thin and hard hat blank frame). In the Tang Dynasty, Feng Shiwen Ji Jian was performed, Volume 5, "No towel under the hoe; Such as the ancient crown. " Guo Song Xu Ruo's "Knowledge of Pictures" Volume 1 "Towels are wrapped in hoes." This towel was found in the tomb of Astana Tang in Turpan, Xinjiang on 1964. It is a hat blank frame, which can determine the shape of hoe, starting from a flat sample. Yu Fuzhi talked about the "flat-headed towel" that was popular in Tang Gaozu's Wude period. Since then, the shape of Shantou has been constantly changing, and Wu Zetian has put on a tall headscarf for the courtiers, also known as the "kings of the Wu family". Tang Zhongzong gave bó foil, falling down a towel with a high style and leaning forward, similar to the "Wang" towel used by the fourth son of Wei Taizong. In the 19th year of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty (AD 73 1 year), officials and heads of other departments were given headscarves and official scarves, also called official headscarves. These Shantou styles can be found in pottery figurines and figure paintings unearthed in the Tang Dynasty. For example, the murals of Li Shou's tomb in the 4th year of Zhen 'an (AD 630) and the hoes of pottery figurines unearthed in the 16th year of Zhen 'an in zhang wan, Xianyang (AD 642) have low tops and may be lined with flat-headed towels. The pottery figurines unearthed from Zheng Rentai's tomb and Yangtou Town's tomb in the first year of Linde (AD 664) in Mazhai Village, Liquan, have raised hoes and seem to be lined with tall headscarves. From the pottery figurines unearthed from Dai Lingyan's tomb in the second year of Kaiyuan in Tang Dynasty (AD 7 14), we can see the tall and positive style. During the Tianbao period, the top of the hoe was in the shape of two spheres, which can also be seen in the pottery figurines unearthed from Dou Lujian's tomb in the third year of Tang Tianbao (AD 744). In the late Tang dynasty, the shape of the towel became straight and pointed. As for the steamed bread wrapped in towels, silk was used in the Tang Dynasty, but it was replaced by black tulle in the Tang Dynasty, as well as tulle and steamed bread specially used for wrapping steamed bread.
The two straps tied to the back of the head are called feet, which were originally called "hanging feet" or "soft feet". Later, the two straps hanging on the back of the head were lengthened and tied up for decoration, which was called "Long Leg Luo Tou". In the second year of Shenlong (AD 706), this image was found on the tombstone of Prince Li Xian of Zhang Huai. During the Shenlong period of the Tang Dynasty (AD 705-706), the shape of the two feet hung by hoes became round or widened, with silk thread, copper wire and iron wire as the bones and paper silk as the lining. This kind of hoe foot is a kind of hard foot that can be tilted up, called toe-lifting hoe. In the Five Dynasties, stilt hoes were widely popular, and "Cloud Road Full of Chao" said that "the emperors of the Five Dynasties wrapped their hoes in the sky, their feet tilted, and they were the masters of the four directions, and they all brought forth the new, or turned upside down, or like a round fan burning leaves, and placed them in front. The puppet (934-960 AD, Houshu) began to use lacquered yarn. Ma Xifan in Hunan was more than two feet long and was called the Dragon Horn. It was not until Liu Hanzu (9 17-974, Nanhan) was promoted to a state official, wrapped in a hoe about a foot long, horizontal and vertical, and no longer upturned. It has not changed so far. " In this paper, Shantou Foot was renamed Shantou Corner. This kind of Shantou with two long horns is called the spreading angle. The spreading angle is not fixed in Shantou, so it can be loaded and unloaded at any time.
At first, Shantou gradually evolved from a piece of folk baotou cloth into a perfect shape lined with a fixed hat skeleton and corners. After thousands of years of history, the Chinese national crown hat has finally formed, which is dignified and plump, expands the corner in the dynamic, expands the visual space, combines the virtual and the real, strives for change in the balance, and is convenient to take off. So it can last for a long time and has been popular until 10. Hu Yin pointed out in Qiu Jun's Supplement to Yan Yi, "Ancient guests, sacrifices, funerals, looks and military affairs have their own crowns. The gauze is fine. All the crowns are wasted. What is the legal side? What is the meaning of seeking? " Wotou started with folk and practical Baotou cloth. Its popularity has no legal basis or far-fetched meaning, but it has existed for such a long time in the history of China costumes, which can inspire us to explore the law of the evolution of national costume culture.
(2) The sage is crowned.
Golden thread crown is also an important crown style in the history of China costume art, which has been quite popular in the Han Dynasty. From princes to petty officials, Ignazi Koehler was crowned, and in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, it still played an important role in the vestments of the Tang and Song Dynasties, but its form was also changing, and it evolved into Guan Liang in the Ming Dynasty. In ancient times, it was said that the front height was 7 inches, the back height was 3 inches and the length was 8 inches. The length here refers to the length of the cap beam, which is connected with the cap edge with a front height of 7 inches and a back height of 3 inches, forming an oblique shape with an acute angle protruding forward, which is called "spreading pipe". The sides and the middle of the exhibition tube are hollow. In the Western Han Dynasty, this crown hat only covered the bun on the top of the head and was fixed under the jaw with a hat ring. It's not firm after wearing it. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, adding a flat top cover under the crown hat was equivalent to adding a hat seat under the crown. In ancient times, it was used by working people to tie their hair so as not to mess it up. There are straps at both ends, which can be tied from the head to the chin. In the Qin Dynasty, warriors wrapped their heads with red handkerchiefs, and when they wrapped them from their foreheads to the back of their heads, they folded a decorative edge, which was called "Yanti". Dai Ai didn't completely cover his head in the Western Han Dynasty, because it was often empty. According to "Continued Korea"? Records of Yu Fuzhi, in 48 BC, Liu? #93; When he was emperor (that is, Emperor Han Yuan), he often wore a cloak as a cover because of his thick hair on his forehead, and ministers imitated him. The materials and workmanship at this time are of course exquisite. In 9 AD, Wang Mang usurped the Han Dynasty, and his head was bald. So put the soft lining up, make it stiff, raise the top, and make a zigzag hat "house" so as to cover the baldness. This zigzag hat house is called "Jiege". "Han Shu continued? According to the Records of Five Elements, during the Yan Dynasty (from A.D. 158 to A.D. 166), "the face of the capital was short and the ears were long", which was a pattern of low before and high after. "Han Shu continued? Yu Fuzhi also said that when Emperor Xiaowen of Wei Dynasty (AD 47 1-500), he raised the inscription on the face to the back of his head, then raised it and stood it up, so that the joint on both sides was erected into a triangular pointed ear shape, which was called "ear" and hung under his ear, that is, behind the hat ring, which was called "receiving". The crown of the Eastern Han Dynasty can be said to be a combination of exhibition and introduction. From the figures sculptures and paintings unearthed, it can be seen that the crown and ears of Jinxian Crown in the Jin Dynasty have greatly increased, and their heights are consistent with the highest point of the exhibition tube, and the outer profile of the exhibition tube has been transformed from the original 〓 shape to 〓 shape. In the Tang Dynasty, the crown ear gradually expanded, changing from a sharp corner to a circular arc, while the exhibition tube gradually decreased and narrowed, integrating the intermediary house with the exhibition tube of Jinxian Crown.
(3) Ping Jin and martial arts.
The flat towel is the first set of system with interface and flat top. This is the cloth that ordinary people in ancient times wrapped on their foreheads. When Wang Mang made it, it was a hard top, which could cover the whole head, and then a cross-shaped roof appeared at the top, which was for the sake of cross section. In addition, in the Eastern Han Dynasty, when wearing a crown, a flat-topped cloak was used as a cushion, which was called a flat-towel cloak. At the end of the Western Jin Dynasty, there appeared a small crown with a semi-circular flat top in front and a tilted tip at the back. When you wear it, you can't cover the whole head, only the bun, that is, a flat scarf (also called a small crown). Uncle Song? "Five Elements" is about the small flat towel worn by the imperial envoys at the end of Jin Dynasty, and the clothes are spacious and fashionable. Sui Shu? "Yang Di Ji" said that "Two Years of Great Cause" stipulated that the military attache of Sui Dynasty wore a flat towel and pleated "Sui Shu? The etiquette book says that the flat towel is a guide to martial arts. Porcelain statues of hand-pressed knives, hip armor and flat towels unearthed from Sui Zhangsheng's tomb in Anyang, Henan Province are precious image materials. It can be seen that Wu Mi and Ping Mi are the same crown at this time. In the Tang Dynasty, the size of the flat towel increased, and the ears on the back of the towel bulged and expanded outward. From the front, the outline is like a spindle section, with big sleeves, trousers, squat crotch nails and high-heeled shoes, and the posture is dignified. Both the pottery figurines unearthed from Tang Lizhen's tomb in Liquan, Shaanxi Province and Lu Jian's tomb in Tang Dou, Xianyang, Shaanxi Province have this kind of crown clothing. Later, the patterns were further increased, and the square house in the middle of the body disappeared and became arc-shaped, such as worn by warriors carved at the entrance of Su Si's tomb in Xi 'an Tang Dynasty, and its shape gradually resembled that of Jin Deguan.
(4) Cage Crown and The Story Of Diu Sim
The big crown in Han Dynasty is a complex of kudzu and kudzu made of white deer skin, which looks like an ancient cup, with a high front and a sharp back. However, in the Han Dynasty, the Wugui Grand Crown was not made of deerskin, but made of fine spikes (spun yarn) and then coated with red silk as the lining. Lacquer yarn has been unearthed from the Western Han Tomb No.3 Mawangdui in Changsha, Hunan Province and Xin Mang Tomb No.62 Mozuizi in Wuwei, Gansu Province, and this crown can also be seen on the forehead of the Eastern Han Tomb in Yinan. Dai Ge pottery figurines unearthed from the Western Han Tomb in Yangjiawan, Xianyang, have a big crown of Wu Ge under it. Military attaché s in the Western Han Dynasty generally don't wear metal armor, but wear Wu Guan. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, warriors wore armor instead of military crowns, but there was a halter crown, that is, a cage-like hard shell was put on the armor. From the modeling point of view, it is the development of Wu Guan in Han Dynasty. The figures wearing halters in the Southern and Northern Dynasties can be found in Women History Town Map, Luoshen Fu Map, Northern Dynasties Grottoes Buddhism, Sacrifice Portrait, Pottery Figurines and so on. In the Sui Dynasty, the side of the halter crown was flush, and the left and right sides were slightly abduction arc, which was close to a rectangle. The cage crown from Zhenguan (AD 627-649) to Jing Yun (AD 7 10 to AD 71year) in the Tang Dynasty had a trapezoidal outer cover. The model of the halter crown in Tang dynasty absorbed the characteristics of the sage crown and became gorgeous, gradually moving closer to some decorations in the crown and the Liang crown, and finally evolved into a cage headscarf.
In the mid-Han Dynasty, Chang Shi wore Wuyi Grand Crown, which was decorated with golden cicada and sable tail. During the Sixteen Kingdoms Period, according to the unearthed objects from Jin Dong's Tomb in the North Park of Nanjing University, Xinrong's Tomb in Dunhuang, Gansu Province and Feng Sufu's Tomb in Beiyan, Liaoning Province, the gold foil was engraved with cicadas and then welded with gold beads. The golden cicada unearthed from Feng Sufu's tomb in Beiyan is carved into a decorative card combining cicada shape with geometric pattern. The cicada steps are inlaid with gray stone beads, and then a gold piece with the same size and shape is welded on the back. This piece of gold is called Jin Zan. Sui Shu? Li Zhi quoted Dongba's Yu Fu Zhi as saying that "right mink, golden hairpin and silver cicada are often served in it", so the cicada pattern in Sui Dynasty should be made of silver. There are images of the sable tail in the two-year Tang Dynasty hanging arch mural in Cave 235 of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang and the mural in Xin Li's tomb in Yunxian County, Hubei Province, but the sable tail is directly inserted into the flat towel, and the cage crown is not covered outside the flat towel. There is also an image of a sable tail with a cage crown in the three-year Ning stone carving figures in Xiaochang, Northern Wei Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, the sable tail was replaced by pheasant tail, and Peng Yu was inserted in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties.
(5) coronation
During the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties, Guan Yu was used as a military attache's crown hat. On the bronze mirror of the Warring States period unearthed in Jincun, Luoyang, there are figures of riding a horse with a sword and wearing a pair of tails. Brick-carved riding and shooting figures in the Western Han Dynasty also had double tails on Wuyi. Shandong Jiaxiang Wushi Temple East Han Dynasty portrait stone Luz, wearing a rooster crown in Pingshangyang, for the samurai crown. And "Historical Records? Biography of Zhong Ni's Disciples: "Luz was contemptible, brave, honest and frank, crowned with a rooster and wearing a dolphin" is consistent with the record. In Cave 257 of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, northern Wei warriors wore feather crowns, and birds of prey lived above them. However, in the Tang Dynasty, the phoenix head was changed into two bird wings, and the raptor swooped down from the top of the phoenix head, which was quite luxurious and vivid. The raptor looked like a bird. The golden crown decorated with eagle was unearthed in Xiongnu Tomb in Hangjinqi of Inner Mongolia during the Warring States Period on 1972.
(6) Tian Tong Crown and Jinde Crown
Tian Tong Crown is the highest-ranking crown. Characters such as Wang Qingji, Wu Wang, Wang Han and Xia Jie. The person who has the title of identity list in the portrait of the Warrior Hall of the Eastern Han Dynasty in Jiaxiang, Shandong Province should wear Tian Tongguan on his head. Its shape is the same as that of the Golden Fairy Crown in the Han painting, and the difference is only in the front wall of the exhibition tube. Jinxian crown is the joint of the front wall and the hat beam, forming a sharp corner. The front wall of Tian Tongguan is higher than the top of the cap beam, towering and protruding. Academics believe that the front wall above the crown of Tian Tong is Sui Shu Jin Bo Mountain? The etiquette yearbook calls it "there are mountains ahead", so Tian Tongguan is also called the mountain crown. Jinboshan leans forward and is decorated with cicada patterns. Tian Tongguan in the Tang Dynasty was drawn according to the murals of the Tang Dynasty in Bozkili Cave, Xinjiang, and the first painting of the nine-year edition of King Kong Prajna Paramita Sutra discovered by Tang Xiantong in Dunhuang Cave. One of its characteristics is that the face inscription has become a very standardized hat ring shape. Secondly, the whole cap body rotates backward instead of forward. Third, before the crown, Jinbo Mountain was reduced to a laurel shape, decorated with the word king or cicada. Fourth, the crown is decorated with pearls and jade. Fifth, the hat body is decorated with straight lines with equal distances, that is, the number of beams of Tian Tongguan. Yu Fuzhi said there are twelve Tian Tong crowns, don? Jing Wong's Record of Sacrifice to the Suburbs of the Tang Dynasty, Volume III, says that the twelve poems are the number of days, which should be in1February, that is, Tian Tongguan has 12 beams. New Tang book? Yu Fuzhi said that the crown of Tian Tong has 24 beams, which may be the system in the late Tang Dynasty. Comparing Tian Tongguan in Tang Dynasty with Tian Tongguan in Han Dynasty, it was simple and simple in Han Dynasty, but it became very gorgeous in Tang Dynasty. The basic shape of Tian Tongguan in Tang Dynasty is the same as that of Song and Ming Dynasties. Although Jindeguan is slightly inferior to Guan, its shape is also very luxurious, and it is worn by big officials.
(1) hair accessories
1. Buns
High bun was popular among women in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties. Apart from wigs, it was also made into convenient fake bun like women in Han Dynasty, which was called "one bun" and "Tang Shu?" "Five Elements": "At the beginning of Tianbao, noble scholars liked Hu Mao, while women shook their hair with narrow sleeves. "Yang Guifei often wears a fake bun as jewelry, but she likes to wear a yellow skirt. People say, "a bun drags the river, and a yellow skirt drives the river." "In the tomb of Zhang Xiong and his wife in Astana, Turpan, Xinjiang, a bun covered with wooden tires with black paint was unearthed, and there was a small hole at the bottom, leaving traces of metal hairpin. The bun on the head of the female figurines unearthed from this tomb is the same, with exquisite patterns painted on it. A paper tire painted headdress, similar to Ejina Banner, was unearthed from the Tang tombs in this area. The figurines of the Second Mausoleum in Nan Tang Dynasty in Nanjing also wear this headdress, but there are no complicated patterns. When unearthed, it was called a paper crown, which may be one of The Book of Changes. In addition, Uyghur bun is also a fake bun, and the hair is padded with a towel.
Step 2: bang
In the Sui Dynasty, the hairpin was double-stranded, short and long, so as to facilitate insertion and wearing. A hairpin inlaid with jade and silver was unearthed from the Sui tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province. The first hairpin was in the shape of a flower. After the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the headdress of the bun was simple, and there were other headdresses for decoration, close to the sideburns. In the late Tang Dynasty, there were 30 cm to 40 cm long hairpin, more than 700 pieces were unearthed in Dantu, Jiangsu, and were also found in Xi 'an, Shaanxi and Changxing, Zhejiang. In the second year of Tang Dynasty (AD 848) in Jiahui Village, Nanjiao, Xi 'an, a gold-plated silver hairpin with double phoenix patterns was unearthed, which was 37 cm long and had hollowed-out double phoenix and curly grass patterns on its head. In addition, there are hair clips with hollow chrysanthemum patterns, which are rich in image. Among the gold and silver jewelry unearthed from Guo Mu's tomb in Tang Dynasty in Emperor Gang, Guangzhou, there are flowers and birds, flowers, spikes, branches, cones and so on. They are made by pressing, carving, cutting and chiseling. Each flower is in duplicate, with the same pattern but opposite directions, so it can be seen that it is inserted left and right.
Step three: bang
In the Five Dynasties, flowers were coiled with fine gold wire. 1956 Among a batch of gold jewelry unearthed in the western suburbs of Hefei, Anhui Province, there is a double butterfly hairpin, which is coiled into two butterflies flying in opposite directions with gold thread, and its wings are covered with yellow amber.
Shaking hairpin
The Tang Dynasty's "Ladies Walk and Shake", the murals of Ling Wei's tomb in Xi, Shaanxi, and the stone carvings of Li Zhongrun's tomb in Gan County, Shaanxi, all have swaying figures. "Biography of Feiyang" said that Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty had the finest purple sand gold from Lishui, which was cut into steps and put on Yang Guifei's temple in person. "The cloud of hair, the petal of cheek, the golden crown of movement" is the description of Yang Guifei by poets in the Tang Dynasty. 1 28 cm long gold inlaid jade unearthed from Bao Diannian's tomb in Nantang, the western suburb of Hefei City, Anhui Province. The upper end is spread like a wing, inlaid with finely carved jade pieces, and the lower part is decorated with pendant beads and jade. The other piece is 18 cm long, with four butterflies flying at the top and pearls and jade ornaments hanging down, all of which are extremely beautiful.
5. Combs and Baochai
Combs were popular on women's heads from the Wei and Jin Dynasties until the Tang Dynasty, and they were often made of precious materials such as gold, silver, jade and rhinoceros. The method of inserting and wearing can be found in paintings in the Tang Dynasty, such as Natalie's Tao Ren, Zhou Fang's Wan Fan Shi's Woman's Picture and Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes' Tang Diners' Murals. The methods of inserting comb in Dao Lian Tu include forehead single insertion, bun single insertion, and left and right top side separate insertion. The methods of inserting combs for ladies in "Ten Thousand Fans of Ladies" include single insertion on the forehead, two combs up and down on the forehead and three combs up and down. Mrs. Le Tinggui, the patron of Tang Dynasty in Cave No.1 103 of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, has a flower arrangement comb on her right forehead, a phoenix hairpin beside her, and a wind crown on her head. In the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, there were more and more combs on the head, as many as ten. Cao Yijin's family wearing six combs, honeysuckle hairpin, golden flower and jade necklace. Yuan Zhen's Hate Makeup: "Brush your head with a small comb and apply a cymbal to your face". Wang Jian's Gong Ci: "Don't comb when you come back." It just reflects the fashion of this kind of comb. Combs in the Han dynasty were mostly horseshoe-shaped, but in the Tang dynasty, they were elongated into crescent shapes. After five generations, the comb back became a flattened trapezoid. In Song Renzong, the bun is three feet high and the white horn comb is one foot and two inches long. Combs used as headdresses in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties were usually made of gold, silver and copper and decorated with exquisite patterns. The copper comb unearthed from the tomb of Tang Dynasty in Nanmen Paper Garden, Changsha, Hunan Province, is broken and the pattern on the back is clear, which makes two birds wander and fly. A golden flower comb unearthed from the Tang tomb in Sanyuan Road, Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province, is12.5cm high, with a semicircular back and a pair of flying flowers carved in the center. One of them, blowing sheng, is holding a clapper, surrounded by beaded patterns, hollowed out fish scales and interwoven with plum blossom butterflies, which is extremely gorgeous.