Getting off the expressway in Zhenyuan is a pleasant experience, which partly makes up for the shortage of mountain roads. Later, I visited Xinzang and got off the expressway to Luding. I don't know how many such exits there are in China.
The streets of this ancient city are paved with stones. Because it is newly paved, the vehicles rumble on it. The shops in the street are next to each other. The antique bus passed by, and we had dinner at the rice noodle shop, and learned about the ancient city with the local brother sitting next to us. My brother is very enthusiastic, pointing out that it is ok to go to Wuyang River at night, and it is good to go to the crooked ways on the other side during the day tomorrow. However, when I saw a restaurant with the same color by the river, it was cool and breezy, operating grilled fish and hot and sour fish. The music there is so loud that the night view can't compare with Phoenix. I can't move forward. The lady who is dancing in the square dance enthusiastically pointed out that if you go back to the next road, you can go back to the street. With doubts, LP suspects that this road is parallel to the road by the river. How can you go to the street? Open gaode, and sure enough, there is an alley connected with the street. Turn to the alley, there is a gatehouse, which turned out to be the gate of Gubei. Cities that engage in tourism and play the old city card are abandoned in the middle of newly built houses.
Take a night view first.
Check the map. Peace Village is opposite your hotel. Go and have a look first.
The former site of "Heping Village" in Zhenyuan, that is, "the Second Prison of the Military and Political Department of the National Government (the Japanese People's Revolutionary Alliance Against War Zhenyuan Heping Village Task Force)", was originally the second model prison of Guizhou Province of the National Government, covering an area of 6,422 square meters, with a width of 77 meters from east to west, a length of 83.4 meters from north to south and a wall height of 8 meters. The main entrance faces the street, consisting of front yard and backyard, with office building, guard room and a building. Because of its revolutionary historical significance and international influence, "Peace Village" was announced by the State Council as a national key cultural relics protection unit in May 2006.
In Heping Village, except for the original tall walls, most of the original buildings have been demolished, and other units such as maternal and child health stations have been built in the west and south. From August, 65438 to August, 0986, according to the original architectural layout of Heping Village recalled by Kang Dachuan and Tanigawa Minsan, the single-eave, double-decker office building with overhanging hilltop, dumb houses on both sides of the gate and single-eave, single-slope rice storehouse bungalow with a total construction area of 336 square meters were rebuilt. At the same time, four earth walls for slope protection and roof protection were repaired and strengthened.
"Peace Village" was an alias of the Second Prisoner's Shelter of the Military and Political Department of the National Government in War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's time. Founded in February 1938, it is located in Yan Guan, Changde, Hunan Province, and is mainly held by Japanese prisoners captured on the battlefield in southern China. With the change of the war situation, it moved to Chenxi, Hunan,/kloc-0 moved to Zhenyuan, Guizhou in February, 938,/kloc-0 moved to Baxian, Chongqing in October, 944, and/kloc-0 was revoked in April, 946. He stayed far from town for six years.
During Zhenyuan period (1938 65438+February-1944165438+1October), more than 600 Japanese prisoners were held in the second prisoner's shelter. In order to establish a broad anti-Japanese United front, under the influence of the policy of "giving preferential treatment to prisoners" put forward by China, the managers of the shelter treated Japanese prisoners patiently, not only managed to improve their lives, but also arranged entertainment activities for them, so that the prisoners of war gradually woke up from the shadow of Japanese militarism. 194 1 year, under the impetus of Guo Moruo, then deputy director of the Military and Political Department of the National Government and director of the third hall of the Military and Political Department, Japanese anti-war writers Lu Digen, Duan Liyang Ikeda and other organizations organized Japanese prisoners who were awakened in the shelter to set up the "Japanese People's Anti-war Revolutionary Alliance China Peace Village Training Course" (later changed to "Japanese People's Anti-war Revolutionary Alliance China Peace Village Task Force") and went to the front.
The former site of "Heping Village" in Zhenyuan is the only well-preserved prisoner shelter of the military and political departments of the National Government in China. It is a historical witness of Japanese imperialism's invasion of China, and it is of great significance in the history of anti-fascist war in War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, China and the world.
After visiting Heping Village, go back to the hotel to get the car. In the courtyard of the hotel, I saw a Santana with a probe on the roof parked next to it. A young man in the driver's seat was busy turning over his notebook and asking. The young man replied that it was Baidu's and was losing data. It turns out that maps can be updated frequently, which is their credit.
Out of the house, I drove to the old Fucheng on the north bank of Wuyang River via Xinqiao, and found a parking lot next to the Education Bureau. When you come out of the parking lot, you will arrive at Xinglong Street, which is a common street view of Zhenyuan ancient city on the Internet.
Originally, I thought Zhenyuan ancient city should be such a horse-head wall townhouse. I didn't know until I went to Zhenyuan Museum and chatted with the local old people. No, it turns out that Wuyang River is also a diaojiao building. Later, I didn't know whose idea it was, so I demolished all the houses along the river and built a horse-head wall townhouse, which is now the main building of Zhenyuan. Fortunately, there are still some buildings on the hillside that have not been demolished, which is what the locals pointed out to me as "crooked ways."
Zhenyuan has a long history. Since the county was founded in the 30th year of Qin Dynasty (277 BC), it has a history of 228 1 year, and it was the seat of Taoism and government in Yuan and Qing Dynasties for more than 700 years.
There are many ancient buildings in this ancient city. Originally, the splendid Confucius Temple had only two side doors because of the kindergarten. It is very lonely to watch the children go in and out. The black painted door of Zougong Temple was open, and a pair of stone lions crouched on both sides of the door. This is a building built in the Qing Dynasty. Three wind and fire walls and a stone archway form a courtyard. Now it is Zhenyuan Museum.
Coming out of Zhenyuan Museum, I looked up and saw Shiping Mountain.
The North Mountain on the side of Shiping Mountain stands like a big screen in the mountains. The cliff is as high as thousands of feet, hence the name "straight and wide as a screen".
From the side alley, we took the winding road.
Zhenyuan ancient dwellings not only have the style of courtyard houses in the south of the Yangtze River, but also have the layout of mountain houses. The perfect combination of the south of the Yangtze River and the mountains has created the layout of Zhenyuan dwellings, and the perfect combination of the south of the Yangtze River and the mountains has created Zhenyuan's famous residence as a miracle in the architectural history of China. Among them, "crooked ways" is the unique feature of Zhenyuan residential buildings.
The ancient lanes in Zhenyuan Ancient City are long and narrow, with complicated structures, including Shipaifang Lane, Sifang Lane, Fuxing Lane, Renshou Lane, Chongzi Lane, Mimatou Lane, Zibaoge Lane and Chen Jiajing Lane. These criss-crossing and interconnected alleys constitute the blood of Zhenyuan ancient city. Ancient wells are all over the whole process, with different shapes and roundness. Some are shaped like pig troughs, some are clear and transparent natural shallow wells, and some are hanging wells as deep as more than ten feet. Well-known wells are Sifang Well, Zhucao Well, Pipa Well, Chen Jiajing Well, Jue Yuan Well and Nanmengou Tail Well. The ancient wells are prosperous in spring, summer, autumn and winter.
Zhenyuan ancient dwellings moved the prototype of the Central Plains quadrangle to the mountains and transformed it into various forms of villa-style courtyards such as mountain houses, hanging houses and cloisters. It not only reproduces the style of courtyard houses in the south of the Yangtze River, but also embodies the layout of mountain buildings. There are both fortress-like rigor and merchant's heroism. These buildings are a perfect combination of wood and stone structures. There are finely carved flowers, fish and insects in small places, but there are unrestrained ones in large places. They are a true portrayal of people's life and work in the "Southwest Metropolis" in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and also show the business philosophy of businessmen to obtain financial resources. The perfect combination of the south of the Yangtze River and the mountains makes Zhenyuan's folk houses a great miracle in the architectural history of China.
The most unique residential building in Zhenyuan is "crooked ways". All the doors opened in the alley will never be parallel or vertical to the alley, and the alley will never face the hall. But will deliberately turn the door at an angle, oblique to the street, which is the so-called "evil" (oblique) road. The old residents said that this "crooked" and "crooked" is according to Mr. Feng Shui's statement: "South is respect" is a stage of wealth, and "wealth does not show white."
The alleys in Zhenyuan are quiet and unconventional in Beijing Hutong. Jiangnan has beautiful water towns and alleys, but there is no flat and slope-free layout; There is the style of "mountain alley" in Chongqing, but there is no noisy atmosphere in the city. Generally speaking, climbing over the hurdle and beating around the bush is the inevitable result of following the trend; There is a lane in the lane, a well in the lane and a ditch under the lane, which is the need of water supply and drainage; The alley faces the dock, and the alley leads to the postal road, which is the performance of commercial civilization.
Come out of this alley and you'll get to the dock.
From the pier along Xinglong Street to the east, and then to the north, you will reach Zhu Sheng Bridge, which is called "Old Bridge" by the locals. Located in the east of zhenyuan county, Guizhou Province, it was built during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. There is an octagonal pavilion on the bridge, named Kuixinglou, with Feng Yuxiang writing "Give me back my rivers and mountains". Speaking of this bridge, it has something to do with Zhang Sanfeng. It is said that when building a bridge, it is difficult to lay waste for the pier: the silt at the bottom of the river is too thick to dig to the end. Masons thought hard, but without a good plan, the project stopped for many days. When Zhang Sanfeng saw it, he laughed and said, "It's no problem to dig the footing like this, only one thing is missing." Zhang Sanfeng found a bamboo basket and bought a basket of tofu in the street. In the evening, he came to Qiaoji, sprinkled some tofu into each foot pit and muttered to himself. The next day, everyone went to work and went to the construction site. When they saw the foundation pit, they were surprised! It turns out that the bottom of the foundation pit is a whole piece of big bluestone, which is very stable. The pier is built on bluestone, so Zhenyuan people say that Zhu Sheng Bridge is the base of Zhang Sanfeng bean curd.
After crossing the bridge, the Qinglong Cave is on the right.
Qinglong Cave is backed by green hills, facing green water, sticking to the wall, with five steps on the first floor, ten steps on the first floor, flying wings and cornices, carved beams and painted buildings. These ancient buildings are surrounded by mountains and waters, and they are naturally synthesized with cliffs, ancient trees, vines, rock edges and caves. It is really ingenious. There is a diaojiao building overlooking the river, a quiet temple meditation platform, a student academy that reads loudly, and a stage that is full of gongs and drums, which integrates the pavilions and mountains in the world.
1988, this ancient architectural complex was designated as the national key cultural relics protection unit, and it is the closest one to the city in China, while maintaining the true colors of landscape gardens. Together with Maijishan in Gansu and Hangkong Temple in Shanxi, it is called the three "ancient buildings in the air" in ancient China. History shows that in the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty more than 600 years ago, it has formed a scale equivalent to that of existing buildings. "Ming County is guarded by Huang Xiying, and Langzhong and Zhao of the Ministry of Industry buy Tibetan scriptures and build buildings to hide them."
There are many famous monks in the world, and the Buddhist and Taoist resorts in China are generally deep in the mountains. Because of the emphasis on personal practice, I live in a remote place, which is convenient for believers to put aside common ideas and cultivate their temperament. But the religious buildings in Qinglong Cave are different. The bustling ancient market is on the other side of their river, and the breath of secular life floats across the river from time to time. Even in Zhonghe Mountain, where these religious buildings are located, the purity of religion has been challenged. In the narrow cliff area 40 meters wide, 60 meters high and 300 meters long on the mountainside of Zhonghe, there are Buddhist temples, Taoist temples, Confucian academies and business halls, which can be described as a combination of Buddhism, Confucianism and vulgarity. The founder of Qinglongdong Buddhism and Taoism has a good intention: it is not easy to get close to the secular world and keep inner peace. Once it is done, the feelings for religion will go deep into the soul.
I set foot on Zhu Sheng Bridge and went to see Qinglong Cave. I don't want to. It is under maintenance and is not open.
Stand on the bridge, look east, go back to the bridge and ask the locals if they can get on the expressway. No, it's the opposite direction, so I have to drive through the narrow urban area, take S25 to S30, and then take G56 to Fanjingshan.