Li Ya wrote it.

China ancient makeup culture is an important part of cultural history. Studying it can not only make us better understand the living customs, ideas, aesthetic tastes, economic and trade development of ancient people, but also provide scientific reference for contemporary drama and film characterization. The Han Dynasty is an important period in the history of makeup in China, and it has made qualitative progress in the production and modeling of cosmetics compared with the previous generation. It can be said that without the solid foundation of material, concept and formal beauty laid by the Han Dynasty, there would be no subsequent glory in the history of Chinese makeup in Wei, Jin and Tang Dynasties. This paper attempts to present the basic characteristics of makeup culture in Han Dynasty to readers through the analysis of cosmetics and makeup modeling in Han Dynasty.

Keywords: Han Dynasty cosmetic makeup modeling

Make-up, as a custom in people's daily life and an important part of cultural history, has a long history in China. As early as the Neolithic cultural relics, people have found pottery figurines with patterns painted on their faces. If the custom of painting faces at this time is more a reflection of ancient totem ceremony than a cosmetic form to beautify one's appearance in the modern sense, then in the pre-Qin period, there was a clear record of using fat, color, powder and wearing makeup. However, in the pre-Qin period, due to the influence of the culture of respecting ceremony in the Central Plains, the requirements for characters' morality were more important than appearance modification, coupled with the restrictions on cosmetics production technology and raw material import, the makeup at this time was basically in the era of plain makeup with "white powder and black" as the mainstream.

The Han Dynasty is a dynasty in which the Han nationality was formed and the spirit of Han culture was established, and it is also an era in which the contention of hundred schools of thought in pre-Qin period ended and the aesthetic concept of pluralism was formed. The recuperation at the beginning of the Han Dynasty and the excellent rule of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty not only made the social and political stability of the Han Dynasty relatively rich in various products, but also defeated the Xiongnu in the north militarily and pacified South Vietnam, which not only opened up the Silk Road on land, but also opened up the maritime traffic in the south, greatly expanded the foreign trade exchanges of the Han Dynasty and created good objective conditions for the production of cosmetics. Cosmetics such as lead powder, rouge and synthetic perfume are all very popular at this time. In terms of ideology and culture, the early Han dynasty adopted a loose policy, advocated and respected Confucianism, but did not exclude other schools, and began to sort out and study cultural classics. At the same time, Han culture also absorbed Chu culture in large quantities, and injected primitive witchcraft and romantic spirit in myth into northern culture, thus producing a dynamic and magnificent Chinese culture that combines profound rational spirit with bold romantic fantasy. This magnificent Chinese culture undoubtedly had an important influence on the aesthetic concept of makeup in Han Dynasty, and promoted the rapid development of all aspects of makeup. It made the Han Dynasty an important turning point in the history of ancient makeup in China, and laid a solid foundation for the glory of China's makeup history.

I. Overview of Cosmetics in Han Dynasty

By the Han Dynasty, due to the development of science and technology and the opening of the Silk Road, the production technology of cosmetics had made great progress, and the raw materials of cosmetics were also greatly enriched. For example, in the early Western Han Dynasty, two well-preserved brides were unearthed in Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb in Changsha, among which there were nine little brides, large and small, filled with various cosmetics. The texture of cosmetics for internal use is powdery, oily and blocky. [1] Although its specific formula and application cannot be verified for the time being. However, according to the research on the history of makeup in the Han Dynasty, the varieties of cosmetics in the Han Dynasty are very comprehensive, and all kinds of cosmetics are available, basically covering all major categories of cosmetics.

(1) facial fat

Facial fat is sesame oil that moistens the face and can also be applied to the lips. Han Liuxi's "Interpretation of Famous Jewelry" wrote: "Fat, grinding also. The surface is as smooth as stone. " It describes that the face is as smooth as a fine stone after being coated with fat. Notes in Hanshu Shiyou Tangyan Stone Drum: "Fat refers to fat on the face and fat on the lips, both of which are greasy."

(2) Ze

Ze is also called Lanze, Xiangze and Fangzhi. This is sesame oil for applying hair. Han Liuxi's Interpretation of Famous Things said: "Fragrance is fragrance, and it will wither when it enters the hair, so it can be fragrant. Tang Yan Shi Gu, a historical tour of the Han Dynasty, records: "Those who paste and grind gather a lot of spices and fry them with paste to moisten them. It means that applying perfume to hair can make dry hair shiny. Han Meicheng's "Seven Hair": "It's Lan Ze covered by wine and dust." This is the thing.

(3) Cosmetic powder

Cosmetic powder, that is, cosmetic powder, is divided into white powder and red powder. In the Zhou Dynasty, people already knew that flour was used to make noodles. Most of the flour used at that time was rice flour. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, lead powder was invented in addition to rice flour. The invention of new things must be related to the development of production technology at that time. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, Taoist alchemy prevailed. In order to live forever, Qin Shihuang looked for "elixir" everywhere. The development of burning alchemy and the improvement of smelting technology in Han dynasty made the invention of lead powder have technical conditions and spread as a cosmetic. Ding Qingfu written by Zhang Heng in Han Dynasty said: "Thinking in the face is clear, but suffering from distraction and dullness." In language, new words are often born with the appearance of new concepts or things. It is no accident that the word lead China is used in literary works of Han Dynasty, but it is a reflection of the existence of lead powder society. Lead powder is usually made of lead, tin and other materials. After chemical treatment, it is transformed into powder, and the main component is basic lead carbonate. There are two forms of lead powder: solid and paste. Solids are often processed into tile and silver ingot shapes, which are called "tile powder" or "fixed (ingot) powder"; Paste people are commonly known as "Hu (paste) powder" or "gouache". Han Liuxi's interpretation of names and jewels: "Hu Fen. Hu, paste, fat and paste, with pictures. " So some people think that "Hu fen" is the powder of Hu people, which is wrong. Lead powder can add luster to people's appearance, so it is also called "lead China".

In addition to white makeup powder, there was also red makeup powder in Han Dynasty, which was used to make up cheeks. Han Liuxi's interpretation of jewelry: "I am pink, I am red, I am dyed red with pink, and I wear blush." The second poem of Nineteen Ancient Poems wrote: "E-E's red makeup made her delicate hands."

In addition to powder, there are refreshing powders in the Han Dynasty, which are generally made into powder and sprinkled on the body after bathing, which has a cool and smooth effect. Mostly used in summer. Ling Xuan wrote in Zhao Chuan in the Han Dynasty: "After bathing, there are five clouds and seven fragrant soups, which are fragrant and latent; ... Jieyu Cardamom Soup, Fulu Bai Hua Ying Powder. " [②]

④ Rouge

Rouge has a very long history, and its starting time is recorded differently in ancient books. "China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times" says: "The facial fat is self-sealing, and the blue flower juice condenses into facial fat." However, Gao Cheng, a poet in the Song Dynasty, said in "Things are in the Original": "In the Qin Palace, everyone knew the beauty of red makeup, and this makeup began." According to the excavated archaeological data, cosmetics such as rouge were found in combs and toiletries unearthed from Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb. The owner of this tomb was a wife of Tuo Domineering at that time. The tomb is about five years of Emperor Wen of the Han Dynasty (BC 175), only forty years away from the Qin Dynasty. It can be seen that in the Qin and Han dynasties at the latest, women had used rouge to make up their cheeks.

The main raw materials for making rouge in ancient times were red and blue flowers. Red and blue flowers, also known as "yellow and blue" and "safflower", were introduced to China by Xiongnu. Since the Han Dynasty, there have been many contests of military strength between Han and Hungary. For example, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty fought back three times on a large scale, and the evil king of Xiongnu led 40,000 people to join the Han Dynasty. In the third year of Emperor Gaozu's Xuan Di Ganlu, Uhaanyehe became a minister in the Han Dynasty. In the twenty-four years after the founding of Emperor Guangwu, Xiongnu living in the south joined Wang Yuansai one after another. Coupled with the exchanges between officials and people, it has opened up a broad road for the exchange and dissemination of cultural customs between China and Hungary. The production, use and promotion of "Rouge" was gradually introduced into the imperial palace of Han Dynasty in China and the vast areas bordering Xiongnu under this historical background of great communication and mixed residence.

Song dynasty's "home has materia medica" contains: "red and blue taste pungent and warm, non-toxic. Can be made into rouge, born in Han Liang and the western regions, one yellow and one blue. " Zhang Hua's "Natural History" contains: "'Yellow Blue' was obtained in Zhang Qian, and it is also planted today, which is close to the world variety. After picking flowers and drying them in the sun, they are dyed with silk, and the color is fresher than money, which is called "scarlet" or "scarlet". This grass is called' safflower'. Take the surplus of dyed silk as swallow branches. The first dye of hay is yellow, so it is also called yellow and blue. " During the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, Zhang Qian brought it back to China when he went to the Western Regions. Because these flowers come from Yanqi Mountain, the Han people call their red cosmetics "Yan Zhi". Yan Zhi was translated by Hu, and later generations wrote Cigarettes, Fresh Branches, Yan Zhi and Rouge. In the Han Dynasty, red and blue flowers, as important economic crops and cosmetic materials, have widely entered the social life of Huns. Therefore, after Huo Qubing conquered Yan Zhi and Qilian Mountain successively, the Huns lamented: "The death of Qilian Mountain made my six animals unhappy; Losing my mountain makes my daughter colorless. "

Cinnabar is not only used as rouge, but also found as cosmetics in early Han tombs unearthed in Haizhou, Jiangsu Province and Changsha, Hunan Province. Cinnabar is mainly composed of mercury sulfide, and contains a small amount of impurities such as iron oxide and clay, which can be ground into powder for facial makeup.

(5) Eyebrows

That is, Shi Dai for thrush. Han Liuxi wrote in "Interpretation of Famous Ornaments": "Wear, wear, and show eyebrows, replacing their positions with paintings." So what is "Dai"? Popular saying is "dyed bluestone is the point to wear." In this way, Dai is a kind of ore, which Han people call "bluestone" or "stone Dai". Mineralogy belongs to "graphite". Because of its greasy quality, it can be used as jade plum, so it has another name of "thrush stone" later. This is China's natural ink. Before cigarette ink was invented, men used it to write and women used it to thrush. When applying Dai, put it on a special inkstone and grind it into powder, then mix it with water and apply it to your eyebrows. Later, there was a processed black block, which could be directly mixed with water. Inkstone in Han Dynasty is often found in tombs in the north and south. In the tomb of the Western Han Dynasty in Nanchang, Jiangxi, there is a bluestone inkstone, and in Xinzhuang, Taizhou, Jiangsu, there is an inkstone of the Eastern Han Dynasty with traces of black ink stuck on it. In the comb box of Han Dynasty unearthed in Radish Bay, Gui County, Guangxi Province, a crushed black stone Dai was also found.

(6) Lip fat

Lip fat is also mentioned in Liu Xi's book Interpretation of Famous Things in the Han Dynasty: "Lip fat is made by Dan and looks like red lips." Explain that the custom of lip-pointing is not later than Han Dynasty. Dan is a red mineral pigment, also called cinnabar. However, cinnabar itself is not sticky and has poor adhesion. If you apply it to your lips, it will be dissolved by foam soon. Therefore, the ancients infiltrated a proper amount of animal fat into cinnabar, and the lip fat made from cinnabar not only has waterproof performance, but also can add color luster and prevent chapped lips, which is an ideal cosmetic product. Lip fat has been found in Western Han tombs in Yangzhou, Jiangsu and Changsha, Hunan. It was still in the dowry when it was unearthed. Although it has been buried underground for more than 2000 years, its color is still brilliant.

(7) spices

In decorative culture, the use of incense is a very important part. Since ancient times, women's cosmetics have contained fragrance. Facial fat is also called "balsam", shampoo is called "fragrance", cosmetic powder is called "fragrance powder", and comb cake containing mirror grate and rouge oil powder is also called "fragrance". Perfume and cosmetics are inseparable. Spice can not only make the body smell, but also make people smell it before seeing it, which has a mysterious and attractive effect that makeup clothes can't achieve. In addition, spices also have the health care functions of repelling mosquitoes, preventing pollution, calming the nerves, and sterilizing.

Numerous spices have been unearthed from Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb. At present, there are more than ten kinds of spices that can be identified, such as Zanthoxylum bungeanum, Cinnamomum cassia, Maoxiang, Alpinia officinarum, Ginger, Flos Magnoliae, Du Heng, Ligusticum and Eupatorium odoratum. These spices were put in medicine bags, sachets, pillows, cosmetics and fuming stoves, which provided very valuable material for us to study the customs of using incense in Han Dynasty. [3] Judging from the spices unearthed from Tomb No.1, the spices used by the nobles in the early Western Han Dynasty were domestic herbs, which were relatively common and had no valuable spices. Because it is collected directly from plants, it is called natural perfume. These herbs are air-dried and sewn in small bags to wear. If used for burning, smoke won't smell very good. Incense for burning, such as frankincense, agarwood, sandalwood, tulip, storax, etc. , mostly tropical products, not produced in the Yellow River basin and the Yangtze River basin. The precious spices of later generations were mainly imported from the western regions and the South China Sea. During the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the Silk Road on land and the maritime traffic in the south were opened only after the Western Regions and South Vietnam were opened. China had a wider contact with the world, and the spice trade was put on the agenda. [4] With the increasing variety of spices, people began to study the functions and characteristics of various spices, and created a unique fragrance by using the compatibility and blending of various spices, so the concept of "fragrance formula" appeared, that is, "compound fragrance" made by blending various spices according to the fragrance formula. The evolution from natural perfume to synthetic perfume is an important development of perfume use. The incense prescription of "Han Jianning Gong Xiang" in the Eastern Han Dynasty shows the progress in the use of incense in the Eastern Han Dynasty:

Four kilograms of yellow ripe incense, two ounces of Polygonum multiflorum, five ounces of clove bark, four ounces of agastache leaves, four ounces of Linglingxiang, four ounces of Angelica dahurica, one ounce of frankincense, four ounces of sandalwood, four ounces of raw Xiang Jie, five ounces of Gan Song, one ounce of Maoxiang, two ounces of agarwood, two ounces of storax oil and five ounces of jujube.

Grinding into fine powder, mixing with honey, and making into pills or cakes for the next month. [⑤]

Second, an overview of makeup modeling in Han Dynasty

Due to the maturity of cosmetics production technology and the change of the concept of female beauty, the makeup styles in Han Dynasty have been greatly enriched, which is an important turning point in the history of ancient makeup in China from the plain makeup era in pre-Qin to the makeup era in later generations. In the aspect of facial makeup, due to the introduction of red and blue flowers, the use of rouge has become increasingly popular, and women have changed their usual style of plain makeup and started to popularize all kinds of red makeup. In terms of eyebrow makeup, sweeping away the monotonous and slender Emei makeup of the Zhou Dynasty created many "magnificent" and "self-considered charming" eyebrows. In addition, the trend of flower buds and noodles becoming common shows that women in Han Dynasty freely pursued beauty. Moreover, from the Han Dynasty to the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, the phenomenon of men applying powder frequently appeared, which not only showed the increasing popularity of makeup, but also showed people's tolerance for beauty in this period. But in terms of aesthetic style, the makeup style of Han Dynasty is generally soft and elegant.

(1) Facial makeup in Han Dynasty

Since the Han Dynasty, women no longer take the plain makeup of the Zhou Dynasty as beauty, but popular "red makeup", that is, not only applying powder, but also applying Zhu, that is, applying rouge.

Women in the Han Dynasty blushed, those with wealth were bright and beautiful, and those with lightness were elegant and moving. According to the color depth, range and makeup system, various makeup names have been produced. For example, "Unintentional Makeup" is lined with the beauty of tiredness and carelessness, with thin vermicelli, shallow eyebrows and fluffy curls on the temples, giving people a sense of drowsiness and fatigue. It is said that it was created by Zhao Hede, the wife of Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty. Zhao Chuan in Han Dynasty: "A new bath is a combination of virtue and harmony, and nine songs are fragrant with water. For curly hair, a new bun; For thin eyebrows, the number is far away; Please fill the stone.

Another example is "red makeup", which, as the name implies, means applying rouge and pink to the cheeks. The second part of "Nineteen Ancient Poems" in the Han Dynasty wrote: "E-E red makeup for hands." Its customs have long attacked each other.

(2) Eyebrow makeup in Han Dynasty

The Han Dynasty can be said to have inherited the customs of pre-Qin countries, initiated the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, and opened the first climax in the history of thrush in China.

During the Han Dynasty, many emperors and literati devoted to eyebrow shaping emerged. The Western Han Dynasty was headed by Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, and "Er Yi Lu" said that he "made the imperial secretary sweep his eyebrows". In the Eastern Han Dynasty, Ming Di was the chief figure, and was called "Ming Di Imperial Secretary, who brushed the moth eyebrows of indigo naturalis". Under the emperor's advocacy, ordinary people naturally attach importance to women's decorations. The famous story of Zhang Chang thrush happened in this period. According to Chang's biography, "openness is the symbol of Beijing ... and it is also a woman's thrush." Chang 'an passed Zhang Jingzhao's eyebrows. "People who have estrangement with him report to Emperor Gaozu Xuan Di. Xuan Di summoned him and asked him. Zhang Chang replied, "I heard that there are too many thrushes in the boudoir, which makes Xuan Di very satisfied." Since then, this has become a long-standing allusion to the love between husband and wife. Zack Zhang, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, quoted this ancient classic in his Xerox Ci: "I sympathize with Jing Zhao's eyebrows and will stay in the south for five years. "Sima Xiangru, another great talent in the Han Dynasty, is also an eyebrow idiot. He is "the leader of ancient Chinese prose in Han Dynasty". There are many famous sentences about eyebrows in his poems, which are just peerless beauties with rich natural beauty between the eyebrows. " "Miscellanies of Xijing" said: "Sima Xiangru's wife, Zhuo Wenjun, has an eyebrow like a distant mountain and paints a distant eyebrow." (One is called "Zhuo Wenjun is beautiful, and the eyebrow looks at the mountain from afar"). This is the so-called beauty and talent, which complement each other. Later, Zhao Yanfei, the beloved princess of Emperor Han Cheng, asked her sister Zhao Hede to emulate Wen Jun's "Fine Eyebrows,No. Far Mountain Terrace". It can be seen that the fashion of eyebrow shaping really prevailed in the Han Dynasty.

In addition to the above-mentioned eight-character eyebrows, distant eyebrows and moth eyebrows, the most popular eyebrow makeup for aristocratic women in Han Dynasty is eyebrow. Long eyebrows are based on the changes of moth eyebrows and are characterized by slender and slender. The pottery figurines in Mawangdui Han Tomb have long eyebrows on their faces. In addition to long eyebrows, women in the Han Dynasty painted broad eyebrows (also known as "wide eyebrows" and "big eyebrows"). It is said that this trend first started in Chang 'an and then spread to the whole country. There is a saying in Xie Cheng's Book of the Later Han Dynasty: "The eyebrows in the city are wide, and the four sides draw half the forehead", and even "girls and children can't thrush, but their ears are wide." This description is also found in the works of literati. For example, Sima Xiangru's On the Forest said, "Ruofu and Fu Fei's disciples who play the piano ... are beautifully decorated and carved ... with long eyebrows and beautiful faces". Wu Yun's "Appreciating Liu Yun's Poems" describes long eyebrows with "thin waist and wide sleeves, and long moths painted on half forehead". It can be seen that the magnificent Chinese culture is also magnificent in eyebrow makeup. This eyebrow shape can be seen from the image of female music in cultural relics unearthed from Han tombs in the suburbs of Guangzhou. The eyebrows of the female musicians on both sides are not high on one side, which is quite distinctive. The figure-of-eight eyebrows mentioned above are further evolved on the basis of long eyebrows. Because the eyebrows are raised and partially sunken, they are named after the figure of eight. This is how the wooden figurines unearthed from the Western Han Tomb in Yunmeng, Hubei Province were made.

In the Han Dynasty, a surprised eyebrow was popular, but it was soon replaced by the "frown" invented by Liang Ji's wife. Frowning is born out of the "eight-character" eyebrow, and the eyebrow is hooked. Eyebrows are thin and tortuous with strong colors, which are quite different from natural eyebrows. So shave off your eyebrows and draw double eyebrows. "The Story of Ji Liang in the Later Han Dynasty" said: "(Ji's wife and grandson) is beautiful as a flower, good at being a demon, with locked eyes, falling into a ponytail, hunched over and grinning, thinking it is fascinating." The crying makeup here refers to a makeup that looks like crying under ointment. Popular in the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was one of the few eye makeup in ancient China. This move has a great impact. In Yuan Jia Huan Di, Kyoto women frown and make up ... Kyoto is full of joy, and all summers are effective. This is close to serving the demon. "As a result, a new word-"worry moth "appeared, which is often used to describe the anxiety state of women in later generations and is called worry moth lock.

As for the methods of female eyebrow makeup in Han dynasty, besides drawing, tools are also needed to decorate it. Han Liuxi's Interpretation of Famous Ornaments: "Wear it, wear it, show your eyebrows, and replace it with paintings." That is, pull out the ancient thrush before painting. A pair of horny tweezers with a length of 17.2 cm were found in the lacquer tomb of Wuzi in Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb. Tweezers can be disassembled at will, and the handle is finely made and engraved with geometric patterns. "Explanation of Famous Jewelry" says: "Tweezers, take photos, take hair." Taiping Magnolia Volume 7 14 quoted from Popular Literature: "Those who wear scissors are called tweezers." You can see that tweezers are used to pluck hairs. Of course, besides hair and beard, eyebrows should also belong to this category. Chu Tong, the king of Qing Dynasty, quoted Zheng's Family Instructions in Volume 73 of Sushi History: "Women are not allowed to shave with knives and tongs." It shows from the side that knives and tweezers are important tools for women to shave. But in fact, not all ancient women drew their eyebrows before painting. They just have to pull out some special eyebrows when drawing them, just like modern people. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Ming Emperor Ma De was dignified and beautiful. "History of the East View in Hanshu" records: "She doesn't wear eyebrows, but her eyebrows are very small, like a millet." It can be seen that there are also many women who advocate the natural beauty of eyebrow shape.

(3) Lip makeup in Han Dynasty

Decorating red lips is another important step in facial makeup. Because the color of lip fat has a strong hiding power, the mouth shape can be changed. Therefore, as early as the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, there was a custom of lip makeup in China society that advocated the beauty of women's lips, such as "Goddess Fu" written by Chu and Song Yu in the Warring States Period: "The eyebrows are connected with clouds and the lips are beautiful." In order to appreciate the color of women's lips, such as cinnabar, it is ruddy and bright.

In ancient China, women's lips were generally petite and plump, commonly known as "small cherry mouth", which became a custom in Han Dynasty. Women often paint their lips white when applying makeup, and then reapply their lips with lip fat. The thick lips can be thinned, and the big mouth can be traced small. For example, the lip shape of the Terracotta Warriors unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province is like an upside-down cherry.

(4) Surface decoration in Han Dynasty

Face decoration, that is, the decoration pasted or painted on cheeks, is a very important type of makeup for ancient women in China. Beginning in the pre-Qin Dynasty, it gradually became popular in the Han Dynasty.

An ornament worn by women in the old days.

Flower bud, also known as face flower or flower seed, is a fine ornament that can be attached to the face. Most of them are made of colored glossy paper, mica, insect wings, fish bones, swim bladder, silk and gold foil. There are round, trefoil, diamond, peach, copper coin, double fork, plum blossom, bird and sparrow feather spots. Of course, there are also paintings directly on the face, which are colorful and very beautiful. Flower bud also refers to facial makeup, especially the makeup between eyebrows and forehead.

The custom of decorating the face with colorful flowers has existed in Chu State. There are three rows of painted female figurines unearthed from Chu Tomb of Warring States in Changsha, which are ladder-shaped, and painted wooden figurines unearthed in Xinyang have a little on their eyelids, which is the origin of colorful flowers. Qin Dynasty "Qin Shihuang was a good fairy, and often made the imperial secretary comb fairy buns, paste five-color flower heads, draw clouds, and the tiger and phoenix soar." [6] It shows that the applique cymbals in Qin Dynasty have become popular. Han inherited the Qin system and was deeply influenced by Chu culture. Therefore, Duan Hua should also inherit it in the Han Dynasty.

Surface ytterbium

Face enamel, also known as cosmetic enamel. Bad refers to the dimples on the cheeks, so bad face generally refers to a decoration applied by ancient women to dimples on both sides. The name of the ancient noodle bowl is "De" (also called "Jun"). Refers to the red spots on women's faces.

It existed in the Shang and Zhou Dynasties and was mostly used in the court. It was originally used as a symbol of the female moon tide. There were many empresses in the ancient emperor's palace. A certain empresses have come, and they can't accept the emperor's "favor", so it's inconvenient to talk about it. As long as they nod with a "yes" face, female history will not be named. Han Liuxi's Interpretation of Names and Jewellery: "Note the noodles with Dan. Hey, it's on fire. The son of heaven's concubine, the second to enter the imperial palace, has a month's work, just stop, don't be royal. It's hard to talk with your mouth. So, if you write this Dan on your face, you will know. If you see it in Women's History, you won't write its name in the first record. " That is to say, this. But over time, the harem concubines and dancers saw that facial beauty was helpful, so they broke the boundary of the moon phase and wore it at any time. The original intention of "beauty" was gradually replaced by beauty, which became a facial beauty and was introduced to the people. In the numerous and soft "Li Sao", I wrote: "The point of the circle shines, reflecting the double auxiliary, and standing opposite."

(5) Men's make-up in Han Dynasty

Make-up is not just a woman's patent since ancient times. Men also have make-up, but they are not as complicated and complete as women.

In the Han dynasty, not only women but also men were rich in powder. "Guang Chuan Hui Wang Liu Yuechuan": "The former painter looked at the house and looked at the fragrance." "Han Shu" says: "When I was filial, the servants of Lang family were crowned with scorpions, scallops and powdered milk." "The History of the Later Han Dynasty and the Biography of Gu Li" also said: "When the emperor was in harmony, all the officials were removed, and most of them did not leave, but more than 100 people were spared. These people not only complain, but also hope for the purpose, so they write an article falsely accusing them of committing a crime, saying,' ... when they are at the funeral, passers-by hide their faces and cry, and try their best to whitewash their looks, make gestures, turn around and press their backs, and walk calmly. Never have a sad heart. "This is slander. However, according to Nong Defu's Supplement to Wan Ye Li, "If a scholar is just a ancient force of the Han Dynasty, he will whitewash his face." It can be seen that Li's right powder application is the truth. It can also be seen that men did have the habit of applying powder at that time. Although male powder application in Han Dynasty is true, it is either classified as Geely or slandered, which shows that male powder application has not been respected by ethics since ancient times.

(6) The custom of decorating with incense in Han Dynasty

The use of spices covers many aspects of life in the Han Dynasty, such as diet, health care, religion, anti-corrosion and so on. The fragrance for decoration mainly comes from the demand for fragrance inside and outside the body.

Fragrant body with fragrant flowers and plants makes people's body linger in fragrance all day long, which has been widely loved by people in the pre-Qin period. There are many discussions on this kind in the Songs of the South, such as: "Shanghai River is separated from the blue, and Qiu Lan thinks it is admirable", "Let the lotus think the clothes, and gather the lotus to think the clothes" (Li Sao); "Girl Luo was brought up ... and Du Heng was brought up by Shi Lan Xi" (Jiuge Shan Gui) and so on. Judging from the poems of Chu Ci, Chu people collect fresh and fragrant flowers and plants from the wild, weave them into garlands, flower chains and other forms, and wear them directly on their bodies, which is often limited by seasons and scenes. Therefore, in most cases, people will put dried herbs in delicate sachets, put them in the shade and wear them on their bodies, so that the fragrance will last longer. Six sachets were unearthed from Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb. The female corpse Xin Zhui holds an embroidered silk sachet in each hand. One "Xin Embroidered" silk sachet was unearthed in the North Box, and the other three were placed in the bamboo barn at No.65 in the East Box.

It is not enough to let the body emit the fragrance of sending people, and it is not enough to wear sachets. In the pre-Qin period, the ancients knew how to put herbs into the bath water when heating it to make a delicious "fragrant soup" to clean and fragrant the body. The Great Dai Li in the Han Dynasty said, "Wash blue soup in the afternoon". That is, soaking bluegrass soup in Dragon Boat Festival for decontamination. Because the Dragon Boat Festival is in the midsummer, and it is also a season with frequent skin diseases, the ancients thought that orchid (that is, flying grass) soup can fragrant the body, get rid of diseases and get rid of unknown. Therefore, the Dragon Boat Festival is also called "Bathing Orchid Festival", and Perrin got another good name "Perfume Orchid". There is a saying in "Nine Songs and Clouds": "Bathing orchid soup is like a square wood, and Hanfu is like English." "The Chronicle of Jingchu": "May 5th is called the Blue Bath Festival." "Five Miscellanies" records that people in the Ming Dynasty took a bath with five-colored grass at noon because "there was no orchid soup". Later, herbs such as cattail and wormwood were usually fried for bathing. "Zhao Chuan" has: "After bathing, there are five fragrant and seven fragrant soups, sitting on a heavy seat and sitting on a meteor to reduce the fragrance; Jieyu cardamom soup, Fu (Fu) Lu Hua Bai Ying powder. " The "Five Clouds and Seven Fragrant Soups" and "Cardamom Soup" here are more advanced fragrant soups specially used by empresses.

In addition to bathing fragrant soup, it is more important to add spices to cosmetics and apply them directly to the body. Since ancient times, women's cosmetics have contained fragrance. Face fat is also called "balsam", shampoo is called "fragrant powder", makeup powder is called "fragrant powder", and comb cake with mirror grate and rouge oil powder is also called "sweet cake". The two largest round trays in the lacquer cake of Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb No.5 are specially placed. It can be seen that spices and cosmetics are inseparable.

For body fragrance, in addition to external use, there is also oral use. Ying Shao's "Han Palace" said: "When you are a waiter, you have bad breath in old age, and the smell of chicken tongue contains it." That is, to cover up bad breath with chicken tongue fragrance. This should be the earliest record of oral incense in ancient China.

Cosmetic culture not only contains profound social, cultural and aesthetic connotations, but also reflects the development degree of science, technology, economy and trade of society at that time. From the above analysis, we can know that in the Han Dynasty, the production of cosmetics was mature. Not only the variety is complete, but also the raw materials are widely available, both from animals and plants and from minerals; There are both local and foreign raw materials. In makeup modeling, from the "white and black" plain makeup popular in the pre-Qin period to the bright and elegant red makeup; In eyebrow makeup, due to the advocacy of emperors and literati, the first peak in the history of thrush in China appeared; The use of flower buds and noodles gradually matured; Spices range from natural spices in the Western Han Dynasty to synthetic spices in the Eastern Han Dynasty, from external use in the pre-Qin Dynasty to internal use in the Han Dynasty. Even the strong man joined the pink army. At the same time, it is also worth mentioning that the production of cosmetics, from the two brides unearthed in Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb, is quite exquisite and complete in the early years of the Western Han Dynasty. It can be said that the Han Dynasty is an important foreshadowing period in China's makeup history. Without the solid foundation of material, concept and formal beauty laid by the Han Dynasty, there would be no later glory in the history of makeup in Wei, Jin and Tang Dynasties.