First of all, the main feature of "DSLR" SLR camera is that it has many functions under the budget of amateur equipment. The first is the viewfinder, through which the user can observe the captured image through a special hole with the lens on the front panel.
From a professional point of view, viewfinder is better than traditional LCD. The main advantage is that the observed image is not digitized. There are no unpleasant artifacts (blur, flicker, delay) during lens movement. So the possibility of shooting a successful frame becomes higher.
In addition, "DSLR" is always equipped with manual settings. Users can set the exposure value, aperture opening and exposure time independently. If you know these settings, it will make photos better than automatic mode.
In ordinary amateur devices, manual settings are hardly found-instead, they are a set of predefined scripts. Such a solution seems convenient, but it is totally ineffective. So SLR cameras have certain advantages here.
"Mirror image" has a large matrix. A matrix is an element on which an image is projected through a lens. The size of the matrix will significantly affect the clarity of the image, allowing you to capture more details. You can verify this by reading examples taken with professional equipment on the Internet.
Finally, SLR cameras are always equipped with detachable lenses. Compared with amateur cameras, this allows you to discover a wider range of creative possibilities. Users can choose optical elements in any situation, whether it is macro photos or shooting distant objects. This is the most important advantage of DSLR.
Second, the basic rules for using SLR cameras Therefore, we helped to understand the difference between these two devices. Now it's time to learn how to take pictures with a SLR. The theme of the dialogue is equipment management. Such a broad topic cannot be completely covered in a short article, but we will provide some useful suggestions to make users familiar with it quickly from the beginning. In order to obtain an appropriate professional level and be able to use the equipment at the host level. At the same time, some skills:
Convenient. SLR cameras are usually bulky and heavy. The right hand should be placed on the protruding handle, and the left hand should be held. This position of the hand allows you to quickly use the function and adjust the focal length. After all, there is no "proximity key" here; You must manually rotate the optical element and add a special ring to the lens. For beginners who are used to the "zoom lever" of amateur cameras, it seems uncomfortable, but they can learn it again soon.
Sight. To capture a picture, it is best to use an optical viewfinder. This is what professional photographers do to turn their careers into real art, but sometimes the viewfinder can't be used (which may be caused by the irregular position of the equipment)-in this case, it is recommended to turn on the real-time display mode. This means that the captured image is output on the built-in display. It should be noted that enabling real-time display is also necessary for creating videos. In addition, when the video mode is activated, the device will automatically turn off the optical viewfinder (for design reasons).
Charge correctly. A detachable battery that must be recharged regularly. To do this, please open the card slot on the device, take out the battery and connect it to the charger. Using several batteries, the photographer can quickly continue the shooting process on the road by replacing the discharged batteries. Just buy a few rechargeable batteries (preferably from well-known manufacturers) and a charger in advance.
Function keys. On the main body of the device, there are many different control elements, through which users can access basic functions, settings and so on. No matter which manufacturer, the position of the buttons is almost the same-there are recognized standards for the manufacture of photographic equipment. Therefore, even if the camera equipment is changed frequently, there is no need for retraining. Everything is in the usual place and intuitive. We will consider in detail the main controls existing in the SLR, but these controls are not found in the general "soap box".
The following marks on the mode dial are circled: A+ (fully automatic mode), P (partially adjusted automatic mode), Av (aperture priority mode), Tv (shutter priority mode) and M (fully manual mode). We will introduce these modes in detail later.
In addition to the roller, there are many important functional elements on the case. These include a video button (usually marked in red), an exposure key and a mechanical lever for switching between the screen and the viewfinder. Because of the design characteristics of SLR cameras, the latter is completely mechanical.
Some manufacturers have equipped the equipment with extra control wheels, which can change the settings in manual mode. This is very important for the extra comfort of potential users (the wheel is directly under the finger, which can access the parameters very quickly and comfortably).
The more expensive models have an extra monochrome LCD at the top of the case. When aiming with the main display, it will show the current setting. This element is very convenient-it usually helps photographers to derive shooting parameters.
In some cameras, the switch between manual focus and auto focus is made through the control lever on the fuselage. In other cases, this parameter is reserved for the lever on the lens. Equipment buyers should choose specific options according to their personal preferences (it is best to evaluate the convenience directly in the photographic equipment store).
Third, understand the shooting mode of DSLR. In the setting of "DSLR", there are many modes that can be realized by potential users. For beginners, there are great problems in dealing with these patterns (after all, most of them are obscure abbreviations such as "A" or "Tv"). But in practice, it is not difficult-it is important to be familiar with the values of these patterns and remember when to use them.
A+ (automatic mode). Designed for users who like to save time or simply don't understand the complexity of manual setting. The manufacturer has developed a fully automatic mode for them, also known as the "green zone". The name is attributed to the mode icon-green camera or the letter "A" of the same color. After selecting this function, the processor of the device will independently select the necessary shooting parameters, including exposure, shutter speed and aperture. Due to the development of modern science and technology, shooting can be qualitative. For convenience, there are also some drawing programs-"scenery", "portrait" and "evening"-which should be selected according to the situation.
Av (aperture priority mode). It is considered as a semi-automatic mode, which can control the diaphragm opening. For example, if the parameter f 1/4 is set in the settings, it will be regarded as a common maximum. With the increase of parameters, the aperture gradually closes. So the principle is simple-the bigger the hole, the more light enters the matrix. Beginners are advised to open the aperture in dark conditions (such as in a dark room). When shooting an open sunny space, the aperture must be closed, and the value should be set between f 5.5 and f 1 1. This parameter may affect the existence of scattered scenes-a background blur effect.
Shutter priority mode. People think it is not so popular among amateurs. You can adjust the shutter speed, that is, the speed of taking pictures. The speed is in seconds (for example,11000 or 1/500). When shooting fast-moving objects, it is necessary to set the shutter speed as low as possible, otherwise the image will become blurred. In another case-when shooting in low illumination-it is suggested to set the shutter speed as long as possible to let more light enter the matrix. Naturally, the lower shutter speed (starting from 1/5 seconds) requires a tripod to avoid hand shake and subsequent image blur.
M (full manual setting mode). Allows users to set all parameters independently-aperture, shutter speed and exposure. Using it requires the professional knowledge of the equipment, and a novice SLR camera is unlikely to determine the settings correctly. Subject literature is appropriate, and you can independently study the possibility of manual mode. In cameras of different manufacturers, the method of setting parameters may be different-for example, you can use the function keys on the housing or rotate the wheel to perform the setting method. In this case, the current value will be displayed on the built-in display. Details can be found in the description of the specific equipment model.
ISO (sensitivity setting). Usually, this parameter is in the device menu alone. It allows you to choose the exposure level, that is, the sensitivity of the digital matrix. The minimum value is 100, and the maximum value is the high cost from the manufacturer to the model. The most advanced SLR camera can provide satisfactory image quality, ISO12,800 standard. What does "satisfactory quality" mean? In fact, increasing the exposure level will "light up" the image, resulting in digital noise. It looks like bright white dots scattered all over the picture. Manufacturers try to eliminate it in various ways, including the parameters of the matrix itself and the built-in software processing.
Fourth, the practical example of using "SLR" Perhaps many people suspect that the topic being considered is almost infinite. It is impossible to consider this point comprehensively in a short article-there are many different books. So, we won't go too far, just give the most important skills designed for beginners. They are certainly useful for beginners who have recently bought SLR cameras and want to know about their innovative possibilities. The above general built-in automatic mode is suitable for people who only need to shoot and receive images with acceptable quality.
Shooting portraits. For this purpose, a 50- 120 mm optical element is used. You must rotate the zoom wheel to bring the object as close as possible. Then select mode A (aperture priority) and set the maximum possible value (usually 5.6). As for exposure, it is best to bring it to the camera itself. After the setting is completed, you need to capture the object in the viewfinder and take a view. Thanks to the described method, almost any portrait growth and face can be made. The listed settings ensure that the background is blurred to the maximum extent, while ensuring a minimum proportion of artifacts.
Landscape shooting. To shoot distant objects, you need a lens with a parameter of18-55 mm. You need to set the activation mode A, the aperture opening is f 9 and the sensitivity of the matrix is 100. This will make the frame very clear and avoid excessive illumination and digital noise. Of course, it is recommended to use the above settings during the day, preferably in cloudless weather in Wan Li. If you shoot scenery at night or at night, you basically need different parameters.
Photography architecture. Almost every aspiring photographer wants to capture beautiful architectural objects on the streets of his city. Because buildings often block the space, it is necessary to set the aperture priority f 7 to get more light. It is best to keep the focal length within 18 mm and set it to 100 exposure. These parameters will help to ensure the clarity of the picture and excellent visibility of even the smallest details (almost all building objects have small elements on their surfaces, so it is desirable to obtain maximum clarity).
Macro shooting. This is a close-up photograph of an object. You need a 18-55 mm lens, and the focal length setting can be anything-depending on the composition. In order to get the clearest and highest quality photos without being affected by chromatic aberration, it is suggested to set the exposure value from f 10 to f20 for the experiment of aperture setting. When using 55 mm optical elements, it is particularly important to consider the aperture. As for the value of sensitivity, it is best not to increase it to more than 400-otherwise noise is inevitable. Of course, there should be bright lights.
Shoot on the move. Sometimes, users will be faced with shooting moving objects-pets, vehicles, athletes in competitions, etc. In this case, the lens does not play a special role, mainly paying attention to exposure. It should be as short as possible to achieve a high degree of clarity. Therefore, you should activate the TV mode (shutter priority), select the value of11000 and set the automatic sensitivity. The camera itself will choose the required exposure and will not overestimate ISO (especially when shooting during the day).
Shooting at night requires a special fast lens (which can transmit the maximum amount of light). This mode should be set to M (manual) and the sensitivity should be reduced to 100 to avoid noise. General exposure time can range from 1 to 8 seconds, depending on the light. When shooting at night, the "DSLR" must be mounted on a tripod, because the optical stability can't completely compensate the hand shake, and the photo will become blurred. This is especially true for long exposure settings.
Conclusion Therefore, we can consider the main differences between SLR cameras and amateur cameras and provide useful skills about the shooting process. Now you know the camera mode, how to use the controls, and why you shouldn't rely entirely on automatic settings. Basic practical examples can also be found when shooting architectural objects, portraits or moving objects. I hope the information provided will be helpful to you.