[Conventional cultivation of tulip] Ground planting requires sandy soil with good drainage, pH6.6~7, deep ploughing and soil preparation, using decomposed cow dung and humus soil as base fertilizer, and applying a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer for border planting, and the planting depth is 10~ 12 cm. Generally, topdressing is applied after emergence, budding and flowering. Bulbs take root in winter and topdressing twice before flowering in spring. It blooms from the end of March to the beginning of April, and leaves above the ground turn yellow and enter dormancy in early June. Generally, there is no need to water during the growth process, as long as the soil is kept moist and properly watered when it is dry. Its cultivation and management points are basically the same as those in hyacinthus orientalis. It's just that tulip varieties are easy to cross, so we should pay attention to planting in isolation. Tulip bulbs contain a lot of starch, which is easy to be eaten by mice during storage. Pay attention to it when collecting. Tulip is a kind of bulb plant, which needs to go through a certain low temperature stage before it can bloom normally after the stem grows fully. Conventional cultivation is a general cultivation method of tulip bulbs without supercooling. 1. Preparation Before planting tulips, it is necessary to make a complete production plan, including selecting and arranging planting sites, how to obtain production equipment for tulip bulbs, and preparing potted pots and containers. Tulip bulbs should be planted in deep and fertile sandy soil, and root growth should avoid water accumulation, so the selected terrain must be well drained. For planting beds, the width of the bed is generally 30 cm, and the furrow should be deeper in flat areas. If the soil planted in the first year is sticky, two cubic meters of peat and five kilograms of compound fertilizer can be used as the base fertilizer for soil improvement per 100 square meter. Tulips are not suitable for continuous cropping. It is best not to plant tulips in the land planted a year or two ago. One month before planting tulips, the land should be deeply ploughed and exposed to the sun to eliminate germs and spores and weeds. Then choose sunny weather, irrigate the soil with 40% formalin 100 times solution (the depth is greater than 10 cm), and then cover it with film for about a week. After uncovering the film, carefully cultivate the soil and prepare for planting. 2. When the soil temperature is generally lower than 12℃, it can be considered to be planted in sandy loam with sufficient sunshine and good drainage. After deep ploughing, it is advisable to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers such as decomposed cow dung (7 ~ 10g potassium oxide per square meter). The burial depth is about 2 times of bulb height, and the row spacing is 2~3 times of bulb transverse diameter. Don't water after covering the soil, but cover the straw to improve the soil moisture and prevent the soil from hardening. Apply 1 diluted nitrogen fertilizer just before sprouting; After budding, increase the fertilizer concentration (10% fertilizer and 90% water). Generally, you don't water during the growing period, as long as you keep the soil moist. If the weather is dry, water 1~2 times (the wetting depth is about 15 cm). As a cut flower, it should be cut when the bud is completely discolored, and the ornamental period of vase insertion is about 10 days. Seed bulbs should be disinfected before planting. They can be soaked in potassium permanganate solution or formalin solution for 30 minutes, dried and planted. The productive planting density can be controlled at 12× 12 cm or 13× 12 cm, which varies slightly according to different varieties. Generally, varieties with vertical Ye Qiang and short plants can be densely planted. If it is an exhibition planting, it can be placed in 20~25 cm, and the planting depth is 4~5 cm from the top of the seed ball to the soil surface. Water once after cultivation to prevent drying and dehydration. Tulips are mostly potted plants, ground cover plants and medicinal plants. Maintenance points Tulip has strong cold tolerance, can withstand the low temperature of -35℃ in winter, and can grow normally at 5℃~8℃, which is suitable for forced cultivation in winter. The cultivation of tulip is to break the dormancy of flower primordium and leaf primordium by changing the temperature of seed bulb, eliminate the factors that inhibit the germination of flower buds, promote the differentiation of flower buds, and then make tulip bloom in unnatural flowering period through artificial temperature increase and light supplement. At present, there are bulbs at 5℃ and 9℃ on the market, and we generally choose bulbs at 5℃ for flowering cultivation in the Spring Festival. [Substrate preparation] First, prepare a high-quality substrate, which requires water retention and ventilation. The salinity should not be too high or too acidic, and the pH value should not be lower than 6. There should be no pests and diseases and no harmful substances. Seed balls should be planted stably in a cultivation bed deep enough (at least 5 cm deep). In recent years, we have used peat, decomposed soil and sand as cultivation substrates in the ratio of 1: 1: 1, and the effect is good. About half a month before planting, apply decomposed farmyard manure as base fertilizer, add appropriate amount of carbofuran and carbendazim (or cover with 1% formalin for disinfection), fully irrigate, and carefully plough and harrow before planting to ensure the soil is loose. [Planting] Due to the high temperature in the greenhouse, tulips will turn late in spring, and the effect of low temperature treatment on promoting cultivation will be reduced. Therefore, it is better to plant early than late, usually about two months before the Spring Festival,1mid-October 165438+. Remove the brown bulb skin before planting and soak it in 500 times solution of 50% carbendazim for about two hours. The plant spacing is 9× 10/0cm. When planting, the bulb top is flat or slightly lower than the soil surface. Proper shallow planting can lead to early flowering, and sometimes tulip bulbs can bloom for more than 5 days when they are exposed to the soil surface for about 1/3. After planting, water is poured to promote its rooting. [Cultivation Management] After a week's temperature, bulbs began to sprout. Before and during the seedling stage, the indoor temperature should be kept at 12℃~ 15℃ during the day. When the temperature is too high, it should be ventilated in time to cool down, and the temperature should not be lower than 6℃ at night, so as to promote seeds to take root early, strengthen roots and cultivate strong seedlings. At this time, if the temperature is too high, the plant will have weak stems and poor flower quality. After more than 20 days, when the plant has grown two leaves, it should be heated in time to make the buds leave the bracts in time. The indoor temperature should be kept at 18℃-25℃ during the day and above 10℃ at night. Generally, the corolla begins to be colored after more than 20 days. The first flower blooms from the end of February to the beginning of 10 in 65438+, reaching the full bloom period of 10~ 15 days. At this time, it should be placed in batches according to different time. The higher the temperature, the earlier the flowering. Generally, after the corolla is completely colored, the plant should be sold in the environment of 10℃. Adequate light is a necessary condition for tulip growth. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth, bud drop, plant weakness, pale leaves and shortened flowering period. However, tulips should be properly shaded for more than half a month after being put into the pot, so as to facilitate the bulbs to grow new roots. In addition, the elongation of flower buds is inhibited by light during germination. Shading can promote the elongation of flower buds and prevent the early nutrition from growing too fast and growing in vain. After emergence, light should be increased to promote jointing, bud formation and coloring of plants. After the flower buds are completely colored, direct sunlight should be prevented to prolong the flowering time. Fertilization because the substrate is rich in organic fertilizer, there is no need for topdressing during the growth period. However, if the leaves are pale or the plants are not strong enough due to nitrogen deficiency, a small amount of easily absorbed nitrogen fertilizers such as urea and ammonium nitrate can be applied, otherwise it will lead to excessive growth and even affect the absorption of iron by plants, resulting in iron deficiency (when iron deficiency occurs, all new leaves and new buds turn yellow and old leaves are normal). Top dressing with liquid fertilizer is effective in the growth period, generally from budding to flowering every 65,438. Water after planting, so that the soil and bulbs are fully and closely combined, which is conducive to rooting. After budding, water should be properly controlled. When the leaves are gradually elongated, water can be sprayed on the leaves to increase the humidity of the air. Adequate water supply should be ensured during flowering and budding to promote the full development of flowers. Water should be properly controlled after flowering. Diseases and Pests Prevention and Control of Tulip Diseases and Pests Pathogens can be carried by bulbs or soil to infect bulbs, mostly in high temperature and high humidity environment. The main diseases are stem rot, soft rot, color drop, damping-off, blind bud disease, etc. Most of the pests are aphids. Prevention and control methods: thoroughly disinfect the soil before planting, choose virus-free bulbs for cultivation as far as possible, dig out and destroy the diseased plants in time when they are found, and pour 1~2 times bactericide during the growth of greenhouse, which has good effect; Good ventilation should be maintained to prevent high temperature and humidity; When aphids occur, 3% natural pyrethrins can be sprayed 800 times. Other 1. Potted tulips are managed directly in pots. Due to the different bulb quality, the growth and flowering are uneven, which affects the quality of its goods. Therefore, it is best to plant it in the greenhouse first, and then manage it in the pot after its corolla is colored, so that it will not affect its flowering quality and the effect is better. 2. Among the colors, red blooms the earliest and yellow blooms the latest, about 10 days apart. During cultivation, the planting time should be staggered appropriately to ensure synchronous flowering. Flowering regulation. Disease Prevention [Prevention of Bulb Rot] Bulb Rot often occurs when tulips are cultivated. The main reason is that the dug bulbs are not dried, and the soil with germs is attached. During storage, high temperature and humidity are suitable for the propagation and spread of pathogens, leading to mildew of bulbs; During cultivation, the soil with germs (mostly Fusarium) and the incompletely decomposed fertilizer are destroyed by germs, resulting in bulb rot; The basin soil is cohesive soil, and excessive watering causes water accumulation in the basin soil, which leads to flooding and rot of bulbs; If the bulbs are dug too early, the new bulbs will not grow completely, which will easily lead to rot. In order to prevent bulb rot, corresponding measures should be taken according to the above factors. [Pest control] The main pests and diseases of tulip include rot, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, virus disease, thrips, eggplant aphids, root lice and so on. After Sclerotinia sclerotiorum disease, yellow or brown slightly convex circular spots appear on the scales, and sclerotia is produced in the concave parts. The pathogen infects the stem, causing oblong damage and sclerotia on the surface. Prevention and control methods: first, disinfect the soil before planting; Second, immediately after the onset of the disease, remove the diseased plants and spray zineb 500 times. Viral disease Virus disease is one of the main causes of tulip germplasm degradation. There are many kinds of viruses that harm tulips. There are two common viruses in China: mosaic virus and broken color virus. Mosaic virus causes yellow stripes or granular spots on damaged leaves and black spots on petals. In severe cases, leaves rot, so we should pay attention to timely control aphids and eradicate weeds. Broken color virus causes pale yellow or grayish white stripes or irregular spots on diseased leaves, sometimes forms mosaic, pale yellow or white stripes or irregular spots on petals, and produces broken color flowers on red or purple varieties. Its control method is the same as general virus disease, but the planting place should be far away from lily. Rot mainly harms tulip bulbs and plants. After bulb infection, waterlogging brown spots began to appear, and then the bulbs were soft and rotten. However, after the plant was infected, the tip and edge of the lower leaves faded, the stem became purple, the base of the stem shrank, and then the plant died. Prevention and control methods: bulbs should not be stored in high temperature and humidity, pay attention to ventilation and avoid continuous cropping. Found diseased plants and diseased balls should be handled in time. At the initial stage of infection, 70% Tobezin solution with a ratio of 1000 was sprayed in time. Root lice eat bulbs in the soil, burrow into the epidermis and suck juice, which leads to weak plant growth or easy decay or induce diseases. Soak the bulb with worms in dilute lime water 10 minute, take it out and wash it to kill the root lice.