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the history of chinese tea
1, tea history

tea leaves

China is the birthplace of tea trees, which first appeared in Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and Xishuangbanna in southwest China. However, some scholars believe that the origin of tea trees is in India, on the grounds that there are wild tea trees in India, but not in China. But they didn't know that China mentioned the existence of wild tea trees and the elegant "tea tree king" around 200 BC.

Shennong Herbal Classic is the first pharmaceutical monograph in China, which was written in the Warring States Period and completed in the Western Han Dynasty. In the form of legend, this book collects the drug knowledge accumulated by the working people for a long time since ancient times, including a paragraph that says: "Shennong tasted a hundred herbs, but it was poisoned by seven or two poisons every day, but it was solved in tea." According to textual research, the tea here refers to ancient tea, to the effect that in ancient times, the legendary Emperor Yan personally tasted all kinds of herbs in order to find plants beneficial to human survival, and was poisoned many times in one day. But he was saved by tea. Although this is an obviously exaggerated legend, we can also learn from it that the use of tea by human beings may have started from medicinal use.

According to the investigation, the word "tea" first appeared in "Bai Yin Master Monument" and "Huaihui Monument", about the middle of the Tang Dynasty, from 806 to 820 AD. Before that, "tea" was expressed by the polysemous word "tea".

The basic meaning of the word "tea" is "bitter herb". In ancient times, people still lacked understanding of tea. It is completely understandable to classify it as bitter vegetable only according to its taste. When people realized the difference and special function between it and the general Sophora alopecuroides, a new word representing it alone came into being.

Tea is as important as food. However, "tea is not produced locally due to climate and other reasons. In order to strengthen the control of ethnic minorities, the government adopts a limited direct distribution method for the supply of tea to achieve the purpose of "governing the border with tea". At the same time, the government not only controlled the supply of tea, but also exchanged a small amount of tea for most of the war horses, which brought a heavy burden to the brothers. This is the "tea-horse mutual market" in history.

Tea, as a kind of beverage, has spread to ethnic minority areas in northwest China since the Tang Dynasty and has become a necessity for local people. One day without Chaze's disease, three days without Chaze's disease. China is the origin of tea trees. China's contribution to human beings in the tea industry mainly lies in the earliest discovery and utilization of this plant, which has developed into a splendid and unique tea culture in China, the East and even the whole world. According to China history books, before drinking tea, "the ancients drank water in summer and soup in winter", and they always used warm soup to quench their thirst. Drinking tea has changed people's bad habit of drinking raw water and greatly improved people's health. As for tea, it is regarded as "undoubtedly the best gift from the East to the West" in Europe and America, "Without the introduction of tea and coffee in Europe, drinking would be more luxurious", "The benefits of tea to mankind are immeasurable", "I am sure that tea is one of the saviors of mankind" and "a great comfort" and so on. Except Korea, Japan, Central Asia and West Asia, tea drinking and tea production and trade all over the world were introduced from China around the Tang Dynasty. Most of the others were introduced and developed after16th century, especially in the last 200 years.

Chinese tea culture

China is the hometown of tea. Tea making and drinking have a history of thousands of years, and there are many famous products. The main varieties are green tea, black tea, oolong tea, scented tea, white tea and yellow tea. Tea has the curative effect of strengthening the body and curing diseases, and is full of appreciation interest, which can cultivate sentiment. Tea tasting and entertaining guests are elegant personal entertainment and social activities in China, while sitting in teahouses and tea parties are social group tea activities in China. Chinese tea art enjoys a high reputation in the world. The Tang Dynasty was introduced to Japan, and the Japanese tea ceremony was formed.

Tea drinking began in China. Tea is washed with boiling water, which is natural, elegant and tasteful. Seeking the inherent taste of tea, we should focus on artistic conception. This is the characteristic of tea tasting in China. Tea of the same quality, such as different water, different tea sets or different brewing techniques, will have different effects. China has attached great importance to tea brewing since ancient times and accumulated rich experience. To make tea well, it is necessary to understand the characteristics of various teas and master the scientific brewing technology, so as to fully display the inherent quality of tea.

People in China pay attention to the word "quality" when drinking tea. "Tea tasting" is not only to identify the advantages and disadvantages of tea, but also to daydream and appreciate the taste of tea. Making a pot of strong tea in your busy schedule, choosing a quiet place and taking a sip by yourself can relieve fatigue, relieve boredom, refresh yourself, sip slowly, enjoy beauty and sublimate the spiritual world to a noble artistic realm. The environment for tea tasting is generally composed of buildings, gardens, furnishings, tea sets and other factors. Drinking tea requires quietness, freshness, comfort and cleanliness. China's gardens are world-famous, and the scenery is even more numerous. Use gardens or natural mountains and rivers to set up tea rooms, so that people can rest and be full of interest.

China is an ancient civilization and a country of etiquette, which attaches great importance to etiquette. When the guests come, the etiquette of making tea and offering tea is essential. When guests come to visit, you can argue and choose the best tea set that best suits the taste of the guests. When offering tea to guests, it is also necessary to mix tea properly. When drinking tea with guests, the host should pay attention to the tea residue in the guest's cup and pot. Generally speaking, tea is brewed in a teacup. If you have already drunk half of it, you should add boiling water to make the concentration of tea basically the same and the water temperature appropriate. When drinking tea, it can also be properly accompanied by tea, candy, dishes and so on. To achieve the effect of regulating taste and snacks.

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2. The Book of Tea and Lu Yu

Tea Classics

The long history of tea in China has created tea science and technology for human beings, and also accumulated the richest historical documents of tea industry for the world. In the vast number of cultural classics, there are not only books devoted to tea, but also a lot of contents about tea, tea history, tea making methods and techniques in history books, notes, miscellaneous examinations and ancient books. Around 758 AD, Lu Yu in the Tang Dynasty wrote the earliest volume of tea monograph in the world-Tea Classic. The birth of Tea Classic is an important symbol of the development of tea culture in China, a need and product of the development of tea industry in Tang Dynasty, an induction of tea culture in Tang Dynasty, and a positive impetus to the development of tea culture in the future. The Book of Tea Classics is divided into three volumes, with 10 section. The third section of the first volume: "One Source" discusses the origin, name and quality of tea, introduces the morphological characteristics of tea tree, the relationship between tea quality and soil, and points out the relationship between soil, tea position, topography, varieties and fresh leaf quality, as well as the cultivation methods, and the physiological health care function of drinking tea on human body. It also mentioned the big tea trees found in Badong, Hubei and southeast Sichuan. "Two Tools" Talk about the tools for picking tea. The names, specifications and usage of 19 tools for making cakes and teas are introduced in detail. "San Chuang" talks about the types of tea and the methods of collection and processing. The importance and requirements of tea picking are pointed out, and the theory of timely tea picking is put forward. This paper describes six processes of making cake tea: steaming, mashing, molding, baking, stringing and packaging, and divides cake tea into 8 grades according to the uniformity of appearance and color. Section 1 of the middle volume: "Four utensils" describe the utensils for cooking and drinking tea. The names, shapes, materials, specifications, manufacturing methods and uses of 28 kinds of tea cooking and drinking utensils are described in detail, and the influence of the utensils on the quality of tea soup is discussed. The quality and usage rules of tea sets in different places are also discussed. Section VI of the second volume: "Five Boiling" describes the methods and water quality in brew tea, describes the preparation of cake tea and tea soup, and focuses on the method of baking tea, the fuel of baking tea and brew tea, the water and heat of making tea, and the influence of boiling degree and method on the color and flavor of tea soup. It is pointed out that the white foam of tea soup is its essence. "six cups"

"Talk about the custom of drinking tea, describe the origin, spread and custom of drinking tea, and put forward the ways and methods of drinking tea." Seven Things tells the story, origin and efficacy of ancient and modern tea. Historical materials, legends, anecdotes, poems, essays and prescriptions related to tea before the Tang Dynasty are described. "Comment on the quality of tea produced in different places. Describe the origin and quality of tea in the Tang Dynasty, and divide the tea producing areas in the Tang Dynasty into eight tea areas, and the tea produced in each tea area is divided into four grades according to quality. " The "Nine Outline" talks about which tea sets can be omitted from tea sets, under what circumstances which tea-making processes can be omitted, and the tools or appliances for cooking and drinking tea.

For example, picking and making tea in a deep mountain tea farm can simplify seven tools. Ten pictures suggested that the contents of tea classics should be written on plain silk and hung at the table, so that the contents of tea classics can be seen at a glance. Tea Classic is the first comprehensive tea classic in China that systematically summarizes the tea events around the Tang Dynasty, and it is also the first tea classic in the world. The author collected the historical data of tea in past dynasties in detail, recorded personal investigation and practical experience, and expounded the history, origin, efficacy, cultivation, collection, boiling and drinking knowledge and technology of tea before and after the Tang Dynasty. It is the most complete tea book in ancient China, providing a relatively complete scientific basis for tea production and promoting the development of tea production.

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2. Lu Yu

Lu Yu (733-804), a native of Jinglingzi, Sangzhuweng, Donggangzi and Jingling (now Tianmen, Hubei Province), is world-famous for his first monograph on tea studies, Tea Classic, and has made outstanding contributions to the development of tea industry in China and the world. He is also very good at writing poems, but his poems are few in the world at present.

Lu Yu was originally an abandoned orphan. At the age of three, she was taken in by Master Zhiji, the abbot of Jingling Longgai Temple on the bank of the local West Lake. Ji Gong named the child after the Book of Changes, and took the "gradual" divination. Divination said, "Hung-chien was born on the ground, and his feathers can be used as tools.". So according to the hexagrams, his names are Lu, Yu and Hung-chien. Lu Yu learned to read Chinese, recite Buddhist scriptures, and learn to make tea with yellow scrolls and chimes. Although living in the pure land of Buddhism and hearing Sanskrit every day, Lu Yu was unwilling to convert to Buddhism and cut his hair and become a monk.

When he was nine years old, Master Zhiji once asked him to copy the scriptures and recite the Buddha, but Lu Yu asked, "A disciple is born without a brother and dies without an heir." Confucianism says there are three kinds of unfilial, and there is no queen. Can monks be called filial piety? And openly said: "Yu will give Kong Sheng's text." . The abbot was very angry, so he punished him with heavy "cheap work" and forced him to repent and turn back. Lu Yu was sent to "sweep the temple, build a monk's toilet, build a mud wall, build a tile house, and herd cattle with one hundred and twenty hooves". Instead of being discouraged and giving in, Lu Yu became more eager for knowledge. He learned Chinese characters without paper, and used bamboo to draw cattle backs as books. Occasionally, he won Zhang Heng's Du Nan Fu. Although he didn't know its words, he sat in danger and read aloud. After learning about it, Jigong was afraid that he would be influenced by foreign classics and lose his education. He was also locked in a temple, ordered to cut flowers and sent the old man to take care of it.

In a blink of an eye, Lu Yu 12 years old, feeling that the sun and the moon in the temple are hard to cross. He unexpectedly escaped from Longgai Temple, learned acting in a troupe and became an actor. Although he is ugly and stutters, he is humorous and plays the clown very successfully. Later, he wrote three volumes of jokes.

As the saying goes, Renji has his own nature, and Lu Yu is no exception. In the fifth year of Tang Tianbao, Richie, the satrap of Jingling, saw Lu Yu's outstanding performance at a state party, and appreciated his talent and ambition very much. He immediately gave him a book of poems and recommended him to study in Zou Fuzi, who lived in seclusion in Huomen Mountain. In the 11th year of Tianbao (AD 752), Cui, a doctor of rites, was demoted to Sima Jingling. That year, Lu Yu said goodbye to Master Zou. Cui and Yu met, and they often walked together, drinking tea and talking about poetry and papers. In the fifteenth year of Tianbao, Lu Yu went to Bashanxia and Sichuan to inspect tea affairs. Before leaving, Cui presented a white donkey, a black cow and a letter from Wen Huailai. Along the way, he went to Ma's place to pick tea on every mountain, and met the crystal water in the saddle under the spring. He was busy watching, visiting and writing down pens, and his nib was full. In the first year of Gan Yuan, Tang Suzong (AD 758), Lu Yu came to Shengzhou (now Nanjing, Jiangsu) and lived in qixia temple to study tea affairs. The next year, I lived in Danyang. In the first year of Shangyuan in the Tang Dynasty (AD 760), Lu Yu came to Tiaoxi (now Xing Wu, Zhejiang) from the foothills of Qixia, lived in seclusion in the mountains and wrote the Tea Classics. During this period, I often walk alone in the wild, go deep into the farmhouse, pick tea, find springs, evaluate tea, or recite scriptures and poems, hit trees with a stick, run water with my hands, and hesitate. I cry every time it gets dark. People call it "Chu Kuang meets jade".

He was once worshipped as a prince's literature and served as Dafu of Taichang Temple, but neither of them took office.

Lu Yu despised the powerful, ignored wealth, loved nature and upheld justice all his life. There is a song by Lu Yu in the whole Tang Dynasty, which reflects his qualities:

Don't envy the gold base,

Don't envy the white jade cup,

Don't envy entering the province,

Don't envy the stage at dusk;

Envy Xihe,

I have been to Jingling City.

Lu Yu's Tea Classic is a systematic summary of scientific knowledge and practical experience about tea before and after the Tang Dynasty. It is the crystallization of Lu Yu's hard work, perseverance, first-hand information on tea production and extensive collection of books and tea collectors' experience. As soon as {Tea Classic} came out, it was cherished and loved by all previous dynasties, and praised his pioneering work for the tea industry.

In addition to describing the distribution and evaluating the quality of tea, many famous teas were first discovered by Lu Yu. For example, the ancient bamboo purple bamboo shoot tea of Zhejiang Great Wall (now Changxing County) was rated as top grade by Lu Yu and later listed as tribute tea; Yangxian tea in Yixing County (Yixing, Jiangsu Province) was directly recommended by Lu Yu. (Rebuilding Yixing Teahouse) contains: "Li Xi in ancient times is the state, and there are people offering beautiful tea in Shanhaiguan. Tourists taste it. Savage Lu Yu thinks it is fragrant and sweet, ranking first in other places, and can recommend it to the world. From this, Yun Qi began to enter 12,000, which is also the origin. "

Many ancient books also recorded the magical legend of Lu Yujing's tea tasting. Zhang Tang heart has described Lu Yu in "Fried Tea":

Li Jiqing, who lived in the Clan Dynasty, came to Weiyang (now Yangzhou, Jiangsu) and met Chu Shi Hung-chien. Li Su is very familiar with place names, so he rushed to the county seat and parked his car at Yangzigang. Yes, Li said: Lu Jun's good tea is well known all over the world. This situation is unique in the south. Today is two wonderful things, once in a thousand years, why not! "Command sergeant believe, hold a bottle of boat, deep into the south. The sharp weapon began to land. When the water level is low, the land will scoop up the water; A river is a river that is not south of zero, such as water on the shore. The envoy said, "Let the boat go deep into the trough, and those who see it will be tired and dare to waste it." . Lu didn't say anything, but emptied the pot. Halfway through, Lu was stopped. He said, "From then on, the south will return to zero!" " "The ambassador made a terrible mistake. He said,' A ship is sailing from the south to the shore, and half of it is afraid. If the coast is exposed, the water level will rise, and Chu Shi can learn from it. "How dare you hide?" Li Hebin was startled by dozens of people. When asked about Lu Zhishen, in this way, the pros and cons can be judged after the bottom comes out. Lu said: Chu water is the first, and Jin water is the lowest. Li Yin, dictation for the second time. "(Biography of the New Tang Dynasty) (Biography of Lu Yu), I also remember this incident, but when it comes to Li Jiqing summoning Lu Yu," Feather clothes and wild clothes, armed to the teeth, you're welcome, feather clothes are ashamed, and even more {the theory of destroying tea} ".

Lu Yu died, and later generations respected him as the "tea god", which began in the late Tang Dynasty. Zhao Lin, the secretariat of Yazhou in Tang Dynasty, was closely related to Lu Yu. In his book, he said that Lu Yu loved tea and created a method of frying tea. Up to now, it is the hometown of dew tea. Tao Ruzhi, put it in the pot and make tea. Tang Lizhao's (Supplement to National History) also said that Lu Yu, especially the tea artist, was a porcelain doll named Lu Hung-chien in Gongxian County. He bought dozens of tea sets and got a Hung-chien. It's not good for city people to sell tea, so they have to pour it. "

In the history of tea culture in China, Lu Yu's tea science, tea art, tea ceremony thought and his Tea Classic are epoch-making symbols.

In the feudal society of China, Confucian classics was regarded as the right path for scholars. Knowledge such as tea science and tea art is just a "miscellaneous science" that is considered difficult to enter orthodoxy. Lu Yu, like other scholars, is very familiar with China's traditional Confucianism and studies it carefully. However, unlike ordinary literati, he did not stick to Confucianism, but was able to stay in it and transcend it, dissolving profound academic principles into the material life of tea, thus creating tea culture.

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