In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up the official positions of "Si Fu" and "Inner Si Fu" to take charge of the royal costumes. According to the literature records and the analysis of unearthed cultural relics, China's crown service system was initially established in Xia and Shang Dynasties, and was completely improved in Zhou Dynasty, and the payment in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period was governed by etiquette. In order to show honor and dignity, royal officials and ministers should wear their crowns in an orderly manner and adopt different forms, colors and patterns on different ceremonial occasions. The most famous one is the twelve chapters of costumes contained in the Book of Art: "Painting the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons and insects, embroidering Zong Yi, algae, fire, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice, all in colors." Chapter twelve tattoos became the service system of emperors' dresses in past dynasties, and continued until the abdication of the Qing emperor and the restoration of Yuan Shikai as emperor. From the anthropomorphic cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, it can be seen that although the clothing decoration is complex and simple, it is clear from top to bottom, which has laid the basic shape of China clothing.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (770 ~ 22 BC1), weaving and embroidery technology made great progress, which made the clothing materials more and more refined and the variety names more and more varied. Brocade in Xiangyi, Henan, ice dance, romance and embroidery in Qilu, Shandong are popular all over the country. The spread of technology makes a variety of exquisite clothes stand out. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, not only the princes themselves were luxuriantly dressed, but even the courtiers Ke Qingshi wore pearls and jade around their waists, and clothes, crowns and shoes were very expensive. The ancients wore jade, which was divided into honour and inferiority, and gave it a symbol of personality.
During the Qin and Han Dynasties (2265438 BC+0 ~ 220 AD), the clothing was richer in material than during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, and the deep clothing also got new development. Especially in the Han dynasty, with the establishment of the clothing system, the distinction between official ranks and grades of clothing was more strict. Clothing fabrics in Qin and Han dynasties are still brilliant. Embroidery patterns are mostly mountain clouds, birds and animals or vines. Brocade has various complicated geometric diamond patterns, and the whole pattern is woven with words. In the third year of Jian Yuan in the Western Han Dynasty (BC 138) and the fourth year of Yuan Shou in the Western Han Dynasty (BC 1 19), Zhang Qian was ordered to go to the Western Regions twice, which opened the land passage between China and western countries. Throughout the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, thousands of silks were exported continuously, which was called the "Silk Road" in history.
Clothing in the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties (220 ~ 589) During the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, the grade clothing changed and the national clothing merged greatly. The crown hat has been replaced by towels used by scholars, such as horn towels, water chestnut towels, purple nylon towels, white nylon towels and so on. Wei Chu and Cao Wen have formulated a nine-product official system, which takes purple, red and green as the difference of nine products. Since then, this system has been used in successive dynasties until the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. In the Jin Dynasty, besides towels, men with official positions also wore small crowns, and the lacquer sarong crowns with gauze caps on them were originally made by warriors of the Han Dynasty and passed down from generation to generation, not only for male officials, but also for the people and men and women. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, northern minorities entered the Central Plains.
People live in different places, politics, economy and cultural customs permeate each other, forming a situation of great integration, and clothing is also easy to develop.
Clothing in the Sui and Tang Dynasties (58 1 ~ 907) During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was divided and unified, and its economy and culture were prosperous. The development of clothing presents an unprecedented brilliant scene in materials and styles. Colorful brocade is a kind of silk woven with various colors and patterns, which is often used as half-arm and collar clothing. Gong Jin, in particular, has the patterns of pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix and swimming scales, with gorgeous chapter colors. Embroidery includes five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns can be divided into multicolor overprint dyeing and monochromatic dyeing. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the main characteristics of men's crown clothing were that the upper layer wore robes, the officials wore hoes, and the people wore short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change.
The costumes in Song, Liao, Xia and Jin Dynasties (947 ~ 1368) basically retained the style of Han costumes in Song Dynasty, while the costumes in Liao, Xixia and Jin Dynasties had the characteristics of Qidan, Tangut, Jurchen and Mongolian respectively. National costumes are once again exchanged and integrated. There are three kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty: official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. In the Song Dynasty, Luo was the main fabric of official clothes. Due to the old system of five generations living under one roof, the government (crab government) gives brocade gowns to the dear ministers every year, which are divided into seven different colors. The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being more than three, Zhu being more than five, green being more than seven and green being more than nine. The style of official dress is similar to that of long-sleeved official dress in late Tang Dynasty, but the first dress (crown hat, etc.). ) It is already a flat-winged black silk hat, named Straight Foot, which has been customized. The official clothes of the Song Dynasty followed the system of wearing fish in the Tang Dynasty. Officials who are qualified to wear purple and scarlet official uniforms must tie a "fish bag" around their waist, which contains fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products.
Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368 ~1911) was dominated by traditional Han costumes in Ming Dynasty, and Manchu costumes were the mainstream in Qing Dynasty. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was the positive color, and because the Analects of Confucius had "evil purple to take Zhu also", purple was abolished from official uniforms. The official hats of the Qing dynasty are completely different from those of previous dynasties. Military and political personnel above sergeant and officer all wear weft hats that look like hats, and according to different grades, they are equipped with "coats" of different colors and materials, and a bunch of peacock feathers are dragged behind the hats. Ling is called Hualing. There are "eyes" (round spots on feathers) on the senior ling, which can be divided into one eye, two eyes and three eyes. More eyes are more expensive, and only princes or ministers with outstanding achievements are rewarded. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty.