Overview of literary works
Clothing is one of the most basic needs of human life and plays an important role in people's whole material life and spiritual life. For people at the natural level, clothing is a wearable life with a protected and pleasant body; For people at the social level, clothing is a kind of clothing symbol that embodies aesthetics, highlights literacy, identifies identity and distinguishes social attributes. In a narrow sense, clothing is the material composition and means to show individual existence; Broadly speaking, clothing is one of the important symbols of a nation and a country, which reflects its cultural, artistic, economic and technological development level. On the one hand, clothing constantly meets the basic material needs of human beings because of its special use function; On the other hand, colorful clothing features and subjective aesthetics have jointly constructed the civilization in the field of human spirit and formed the unique charm of clothing culture.
First, the project background analysis
In the design of modern clothing structure, we often use three-dimensional thinking to examine the effect diagram and analyze the appearance of styles, deeply understand the three-dimensional configuration relationship of styles, seriously study the artistic style given by styles, and deeply understand the relationship between clothing structure and human body surface. Generally divided into two parts: artistic modeling and technical modeling. The former uses the concept of three-dimensional space of clothing and the rules and modeling methods of formal beauty to add, subtract, emphasize, subtract, exaggerate and deform the style design, and make it * * structure through three-dimensional imagination, and finally meet the requirements of style design in modeling. The latter is based on the needs of clothing style design. Through structural development and stunt treatment, it is similar to simultaneous operation and modification, so that the garment bumps, folds, curves, wave potential and complex lines that are difficult to deal with in plane effect are fully expressed in structural design.
Every time, every period and every field, there will be some advanced or popular spiritual trend, and this specific spiritual trend in a specific period will inevitably be reflected in the pursuit of fashion design concepts. 1960s is a "counter-cultural era" in culture, and it is the era with the greatest changes in the 20th century. Traditional cultural forms, values, ideologies and even elegant ideas in fashion have been abandoned. In the1960s, the society experienced great changes, such as the Vietnam War, the American civil rights movement, various radical political thoughts in Europe, and China's * * and so on. During this period, high elegance and fashion were abandoned by young people, who pursued unconventional and unique new designs, such as radical hairstyles, pantyhose, miniskirts and hippie styles. If the sixties were marked by rebellion, then1970s could be said to have no character 10 years. During this period, the Vietnam War came to an end, the oil crisis broke out in western countries, the dollar depreciated, the economic prosperity that began in the 1960s became a historical relic, and the optimism in the 1960s was replaced by a new generation of pessimism. This 10 year is a tasteless 10 year. Platform shoes, hot pants, polyester shirts, bell bottoms, nostalgic, futureless "punk" and shiny disco clothes are the mainstream of this era. 1980s, from turmoil, rebellion and challenge to a period of stability, conservatism and complacency, a unique "yuppie culture" emerged. Therefore, the carrier of fashion design concepts in different periods certainly falls on avant-garde fashion designers. Therefore, the avant-garde fashion design concept can guide an era, a period and a specific spiritual concept.
In China, due to the vast territory and huge differences between the north and the south, different folk art styles and folk costume styles have been formed. These styles and styles are the result of the accumulation of customs and habits for thousands of years. For example, in folk art, pure red and pure green Chinese corsets on the high slope of loess in northwest China, red tops, vests and sachets decorated with various decorations are worn on wedding occasions. In Jiangnan and Lingnan areas, the elegance and beauty of folk costumes correspond to the rich colors of loess high slopes. All these unique folk costume styles provide avant-garde fashion designers with rich creative consciousness.
Second, the significance of the research purpose
Design is the forerunner of clothing formation and the setting of clothing material selection and clothing production. Without design, clothing is in an unconscious state. Christian Dior, a famous French designer, once said, "Everything I know, everything I see and everything I hear can be attributed to clothes."
Innovative design is the soul of all designs. Avant-garde clothing modeling structure design pays more attention to the changes of conventional clothing forms, which can be said to be an exaggeration of abstract structure on the basis of concrete structure.
Nowadays, the collision of eastern and western cultures has brought us into an era of complex spirit, and individual personalization is the main theme of the contemporary era. In this era of individuality, the requirements for avant-garde fashion designers are higher and more difficult. In the avant-garde fashion design field, more personalized fashion design language and spirit are needed, and of course, it can also activate the inspiration of fashion designers with great potential.
In daily life, most people around us wear a kind of so-called "visual fatigue". When a person with unique clothes and originality occasionally appears in this group, people's visual sensing system is often shocked. I believe that each of us will have such a daily visual experience, which is the "avant-garde fashion" effect.
What constitutes a complete avant-garde fashion concept should have the conceptual characteristics of artistic beauty in addition to the above-mentioned creative consciousness and the connotation of smart beauty. The so-called beauty of art is a summary of the beauty that constitutes creative consciousness and agility. A style that conforms to the law of beauty will certainly have the character of artistic beauty. To put it simply, the so-called law of beauty is that no matter from the embellishment of clothing, the configuration of color, the contrast of texture and the rationality of size, it can perfectly achieve the pleasure of visual senses and bring a new experience of beauty. At the same time, clothing design that embodies artistic beauty must have the designer's artistic design concept. Designers mainly deny and abandon the perfect works of traditional classics in exchange for "breaking the old and creating the new" from form to content, emphasizing personal subjective feelings and advocating optimism.
The renewal and change of fashion, to some extent, benefits from the inspiration and instigation of avant-garde art that always pursues novelty. Avantgarde fashion is a mirror of the art and spirit of the times. It can not only glimpse the history of human civilization, but also explore some possibilities in the future. It has a subtle spirit and artistic appeal, and can guide people to know the higher realm of clothing art.
Three. The research content of this topic
The so-called structure refers to the combination and connection between the elements that make up a specific thing. Structure, as the content element of scientific beauty in clothing design, not only carries the technical requirements of clothing, but also carries the function of structural components. Therefore, structural elements are only a means to establish technical functions, but structural elements in fashion design strictly follow the objective laws of the external world. It is the product of scientific summary in people's long-term production and life, and it is the internal form of fashion design products created by applying science and technology.
The structure of clothing is formed according to the shape of human body. No matter how exaggerated the change of clothing modeling is, there is no doubt that there is always a close relationship between people and clothing. There are many methods of clothing structure design, such as Japanese prototype method, American prototype method, practical prototype method, proportional distribution method, short inch method and so on.
The specific implementation of clothing style design has the characteristics of plane modeling and dynamic modeling. It is the basic principle of clothing structure design that the three-dimensional consciousness and style of clothing are transformed from plane to three-dimensional modeling practice. Using the active modeling of three-dimensional thinking, it is the basic feature of clothing structure design to reveal the form of clothing details, the overlapping relationship of each part, and to study the combination form of the whole and the part. Clothing modeling is combined with human body shape to adapt to various activities of people. For high fashion, evening dress fashion and art performance fashion, which are known as soft sculptures, although the shapes are beautiful, the cutting is difficult to ponder: it is often difficult to achieve the ideal effect only by using the plane-unfolded modeling method, and it is also lacking in imagination only by using the three-dimensional cutting method. When designing and making this kind of clothing, the parallel effect of three-dimensional cutting and structural design is better. Clothing is called "flowing sculpture", and sculpture is compared to solidified music. Structural designers, like sculpture artists, should use three-dimensional thinking to create, that is, directly modeling and cutting plate-making on human skeletons or real people, and combining vertical cutting and plate-making skills to create colorful clothing shapes.
Avant-garde is a style concept that breaks through the conventional mode and expresses advanced consciousness. Avantgarde can only be established in a relative category. Without "defenders", there is no "avant-garde", and avant-garde cannot exist in isolation without corresponding "defenders". The core of avant-garde is to break through the conventional innovation, not the following improvement, which makes it have a strong "deviant" color at the beginning of its production. Avant-garde clothing is not as practical as its concept. The basic morphological characteristics of avant-garde clothing are: exaggerated and novel modeling elements, unique collocation and production methods, unconventional material varieties and methods, and finally the effect of ready-made clothes makes people feel a certain sense of visual strangeness and psychological distance. Avant-garde has caused a span to people's usual cognitive style, which is the uniqueness of avantgarde.
Avant-garde clothing design depends largely on the combination and configuration of various materials, looking for different materials, or redesigning commonly used materials to obtain new forms of expression. In the modeling of materials, we pursue strong contrast, exaggeration, strangeness, fashion and excitement, and strive to emphasize and highlight the dress through changeable personality elements.
Avant-garde art forms are destroying the principles of traditional realism, making clothing take on an unprecedented form. Cubism, expressionism, constructivism, surrealism and other new ways of thinking and creative ideas of modern art are accepted by designers and transformed into fashionable language. In addition, sister art forms such as music, painting, dance and architecture are transformed into fashion design elements through synaesthesia. When drawing lessons from avant-garde art, we should consider the characteristics of clothing materials and the fit of clothing, and apply the spiritual connotation of truth, goodness and beauty embodied in artistic works to clothing, which must not be copied, but must be original.
Material is the "flesh and blood" of clothing and the material carrier of design. With the progress of the times and the development of science and technology, brand-new materials that can be used for clothing emerge one after another. Combined with rich and ingenious imagination, different materials can produce richer clothing effects.
Clothing structural design is closely related to life practice, emphasizing the combination of strict science and high functionality. The development of science and technology and social progress also promote the sublimation of structural design. Clothing is a combination of technology and art, and artistic imagination plays a leading role, often leading technology to the forefront of research and development. Every invention and innovation of clothing technology will bring important impetus to the development of clothing. With the development of science, many designers are eager to express new ideas, new ideas and new fashions in clothing through materials, especially the emergence of a new era dominated by forward-looking nanotechnology, biotechnology and information technology, the appearance of new environmental protection fibers, the appearance of functional materials such as ultraviolet resistant fiber, temperature control fibers and green ecology, and the application of materials such as luminescence, metallic texture, plastic and glass, which have brought broader creative ideas to clothing designers.
Four. The research method of this topic.
In this research topic, I focus on the application of avant-garde structure and avant-garde fabric in fashion design. Moreover, I think applying the bold and unique structure of clothing to clothing design is like the epitome of architectural art. In the fashion field, we are confused by mysterious but unorthodox trends. The rougher, the deeper, and the more popular. The whole world is doing something new and breaking through the tradition.
In view of this topic, I will choose unique traditional modeling, conceptual fabrics and unique clothing structure as design elements in my graduation design, combine tradition with avant-garde, seek fashion from tradition, develop inspiration from science and technology, express cubism in modern clothing style abstractly and implicitly, add exaggeration and deformation, and introduce new modeling in combination with stereoscopic style, so that clothing has the characteristics of scientific and technological beauty. In fashion design works, strong black-and-white contrast or geometric abstract form is used, and in solid color or geometric form, with its strong visual impact and avant-garde fabrics, it produces optical illusion effect and presents a novel fashion design style.