When sunlight hits air molecules in the earth's atmosphere, the density decreases, resulting in the rise of hot air. The rising air leaves room for colder and denser air to fill the gap; Cold air (wind) movement. That's how waves are formed.
Just as sunlight transfers energy to the air, causing temperature changes, so does wind transfer the same energy to water. When the wind blows to the water surface, small ripples will be produced as a natural result of friction. These small ripples are magnified. They roll one after another in the form of small circles, and the water circulates in the form of peaks.
When you stand on the beach, it seems that the waves are moving towards you, which shows that a lot of water is moved by the wind. In fact, this is not correct; Energy is transmitted through water, but the water itself usually stays in place. This periodicity of waves and peaks explains the law of waves beating on the coast.
Now that we know how waves form and last, it is important to understand that not all waves are created equal. Waves depend on three main factors-wind speed, wind time and wind distance.
Wind speed: wind speed will affect the size of waves; The faster the wind, the bigger the waves, because more ripples will circulate between each other.
Time of wind: If the wind moves against the current for a longer time, the waves will be bigger.
Wind distance: The distance that the wind travels against the waves will also increase the size of the waves.
These three variables determine the strength and shape of wind-driven waves, but waves can also be caused by other natural factors.
Storm surge: when bad weather strikes, it will produce a large area of low pressure, which may lead to strong winds and unpredictable winds. When this happens in deep water far from land, the waves will be bigger, stronger and even longer. Smaller waves will combine into larger waves, and their intensity will increase as they approach the coast. These will cause great damage, which is why hurricanes and typhoons are so dangerous, not only because of the influence of wind on buildings, but also because of the influence of wind on waves, which will rush into coastal towns and bring devastating consequences.
Tsunami: A greater natural disturbance underwater, such as an earthquake or volcanic eruption, will cause huge waves and raze the whole city to the ground. When a large amount of water suddenly shifts (perhaps because of cracks sinking into the seabed), the generated waves can collect energy and cross the ocean at a speed of more than 644 kilometers per hour, which is followed by destruction.
Huge waves: Although some sailors think they are just urban legends, there are enough reports about huge waves, which pose a real threat to the safety of sailors. Huge waves seem to come out of nowhere, and it is reported that sometimes they are as high as 30 meters. They often occur in deep-water storms far from the coast and are thought to be caused by different waves colliding with each other and changing their intensity evenly.
Is water different from waves?
Many people stand in the river or the sea and feel a strong current, just like a force pulling or pushing their bodies. These people may think that water is involved in the formation of waves. Although waves do not move a lot of water (in most cases), they are just energy, and water flow is just the opposite. Water flow is the gradual movement of a large amount of water, which is usually caused by the temperature difference between Arctic waters and temperate regions. With the sinking of cold water and heavy water, warm water will fill the space and form some kind of transportation system.
It takes about 1000 years for the water in "global transmission" to complete a cycle, but this water flow movement has little to do with waves. These currents tend to move under the waves at a consistent speed, regardless of the wind blowing above them.
The ocean is restless all the time, and the sea water keeps flowing. This is the so-called ocean current.
The main factors causing ocean currents are as follows:
1. Tidal force
When the gravitational source exerts a force on an object, the distance between the point on the object and the gravitational source is different, resulting in a gravitational difference, and the object is torn. This difference in gravity is called tidal force.
The earth's ocean tides are mainly caused by the gravity of the moon. Because the tidal force of the earth's ocean is opposite to the direction of the earth's rotation, the earth's rotation is always "braked" by an extremely weak force, which accumulates over time. There is ample evidence that the earth's rotation cycle is getting slower and slower, and the time of day is growing very slowly, increasing by 1 second in a few years. Because tidal force's energy comes from the gravity between the earth and the moon, the gravity of the earth and the moon is constantly losing, which causes the earth not only to rotate slowly, but also to get farther and farther away from the earth.
Second, the monsoon force.
The formation of monsoon is mainly caused by solar radiation. The temperature difference between day and night is large, and the temperature difference between day and night and the surrounding area is large, which leads to large pressure difference, large horizontal pressure gradient force and strong wind force.
In fact, the formation of our global ocean currents is driven by solar radiation, which promotes the movement of the atmosphere, and the movement of the atmosphere promotes the movement of seawater. The stronger the atmospheric movement, the stronger the natural seawater movement.
In fact, there are some tests about this relationship in the college entrance examination. For example, in the geography college entrance examination in 2004, why did the British army choose to cross the sea in summer? When this relationship is clarified, it will be easy to answer questions. To sum up the train of thought, it is roughly as follows: temperature difference-> air pressure difference-> horizontal air pressure gradient force (wind)->; When the ocean current temperature difference is large, the air pressure difference is large, and the air pressure difference is large, a strong wind is generated, and a strong ocean current is generated by the strong wind.
Third, the temperature difference between the surface and bottom of seawater may also lead to ocean currents. But the fundamental energy source of this point is the same as that of the second point, both from solar radiation.
The movement of the ocean, that is, the energy source of ocean currents, is mainly the above three points.
The ancients said that "there is no smoke without fire", which is mainly the second point mentioned above.
But is there really no smoke without fire?
In fact, there is no smoke without fire in the Indian Ocean, the Pacific Ocean and other major oceans. This phenomenon is closely related to tidal force.
We must first know how the ocean moves.
There are several ways of ocean movement: tides, waves, currents and tsunamis. The forces acting on these three modes of motion are different.
1, tide
Tides are formed by gravity. Tide is the expression of gravitational force between planets on the ocean. The most obvious planets that exert gravity on the earth are the moon and the sun. Therefore, the gravity of the sun and the moon is the most important source of tides. Because the distance to the moon is closer to the earth, the tidal force of the moon will be greater. The tidal fluctuation of the ocean is mainly influenced by the moon.
2. Wave
Waves are formed by the influence of wind. When the wind blows over the sea surface, due to the action of friction, it will exert force on the sea surface water. The stronger the wind, the bigger the waves. When strong winds and tides are superimposed, there will be a so-called storm surge.
3. Current
Ocean currents are formed for many reasons. First, the direction and position of seawater formed by long-term directional wind are fixed. It differs from waves in the nature of the wind. The wind that forms waves is unstable wind. The wind that forms ocean currents is directional wind. Of course, there are also the influence of geostrophic deflection force and land contour. The second reason is the change of temperature and salinity of seawater. Because the density distribution of seawater is directly controlled by temperature and salinity, and the density determines the structure of ocean pressure field, the isobaric surface is inconsistent with the isobaric surface, which leads to the formation of ocean currents. We call it density flow, that is, seawater flows from high density to low density. Third, compensation current: the current formed by seawater loss is supplemented by the current in another sea area. There are horizontal compensation current and vertical compensation current.
Tsunami is a destructive wave caused by submarine earthquake, volcanic eruption, submarine landslide or meteorological change. The wave speed of a tsunami is as high as 700-800 kilometers per hour, and it can cross the ocean in a few hours, with a wavelength of several hundred kilometers and thousands of kilometers, with little energy loss. When the tsunami reached the shallow coastal areas, the wavelength became shorter and the wave height increased sharply, reaching tens of meters, forming a "water wall" with huge energy. Roaring waves and ice walls repeat every few minutes or dozens of minutes, destroying banks, flooding land, taking away lives and property, which is extremely destructive. There are about 260 recorded destructive tsunamis in the world, averaging about once every six or seven years. Earthquakes and tsunamis around the Pacific Ocean account for about 80%. The earthquakes in the Japanese archipelago and its adjacent waters account for about 60% of the Pacific earthquakes and tsunamis, and Japan is the country suffering from the most severe earthquakes and tsunamis in the world.
The sea is always restless. What energy causes the ocean to move forever? This research group is half crazy, saying that what I learned and gained from books, newspapers and astronomical knowledge when I was a child is the reason why people observe the restless sea all the time. First of all, I realized the existence of one of the perpetual seawater caused by the gravitational pull of the moon at tidal dusk, and then I observed the reason of the concentration difference of perpetual seawater caused by the melting fresh water of the icebergs in the North and South poles and the alternating cold circulation heat, so that the sea remained restless in nature. Therefore, according to the grey theory, 1 human beings want to protect the normal circulation of natural climate and ocean currents, that is, to protect the rain brought by climate and the survival and development of human society. When the icebergs on the north-south boundary melt to the level and rise to stop the water flow from breaking, the crustal pressure increases → extremely deadly due to the movement of the earth's rotating plate → a large number of disgusting volcanic eruption cycles are produced. Can humans still live? In addition, the climate value will turn into extreme weather, rain will turn into drought, and thousands of millimeters will turn into floods → the existence of washing the city and washing the face is half crazy. I hope that the development of human society is rational and wise. There is a lesson that Quan Zhihui's idea is based on the harmonious development and existence of man and nature!
No corner in the universe can exist independently, but it will be inextricably linked through space. Macroscopically, because the universe is turbulent, all substances are moving, but the way, speed and intensity of movement are different. If not measured by human feelings, the universe is just an eternal movement. Microscopically, the earth's gravity field (including the influence of the moon, the sun and other celestial bodies) and the heat generated by the earth's core, the nuclear decay energy of the earth's elements, the radiation energy of the sun, and the heat energy stored when the earth was born have all caused the eternal movement of the ocean.
Many factors: temperature difference, salt concentration difference of seawater, lunar gravity, wind blowing, earth rotation, etc. lead to a steady stream of seawater. Heat energy, gravity energy, wind kinetic energy and salt ion flow energy. ...
Mainly the gravity of the moon.
Heat, wind, tide, salinity, ocean current and so on. What matters is the wind, the temperature difference between upper and lower and the tide.
The sea is alive, the sea is calm, and everything is over.
My heartbeat. The sea is moving. I am calm. Hailangping