According to the unearthed clothing tools such as bone needles and bone cones, the original clothing was reconstructed. Before the invention of textile technology, animal fur was the main material of people's clothes. At that time, there was no rope or thread, and clothes could be sewn with animal ligaments. In Neanderthal sites and other ancient tombs, a large number of ornaments, including headdresses, neck ornaments and wrist ornaments, were excavated from the ground floor. These materials include natural and beautiful stones, fish bones with animal teeth and shells in the sea. These ornaments were worn not only for decoration, but also to commemorate the victory of fishing and hunting.
Shangzhou guizu clothing
Shangzhou guizu clothing
Show of nobles wearing narrow-sleeved woven clothes and knee-covering clothes in Shang and Zhou Dynasties. During this period, the fabrics were mostly warm colors, especially yellow and red, and occasionally brown and brown, but this does not mean that there were no cool colors such as basket and green. Only the red yellow made of cinnabar and stone yellow is brighter and more penetrating than other colors, so it has remained unchanged for a long time and has been preserved to this day. According to the analysis of modern science and technology, the method of dyeing and weaving in Shang and Zhou dynasties was often a combination of dyeing and painting, especially the positive colors such as red and yellow, which were often painted with a brush after the fabric was woven. (Restored and drawn according to unearthed jade clothing)
Chu women's dress (figure)
Embroidered single clothes and embroidery patterns of Chu ladies (unearthed from Chu Tomb No.1 Mazhuan, Jiangling, Hubei Province). There are more than ten pieces of costumes unearthed from Chu tombs in the middle of the Warring States period, including silks, silks, brocade, yarn, brocade, etc., which are the earliest physical objects seen at present. From the physical point of view, the styles of brocade robe and Zen garment are basically the same, that is, the front, back and two sleeves are one each, and the width of each piece is roughly equal to the width of the fabric itself. Right-handed, cross straight. The body, sleeves and hem are straight. Collars, sleeves, lapels and handrails are all hemmed, and the hemming at the sleeve ends is peculiar, usually with two colors of colorful tapestry.
Ancient Shang and Zhou Junrong Costumes (Figure)
Restoration map of Shang samurai in ancient Shang and Zhou Dynasties. Repair clothes, dresses and clothes according to the bronze statues unearthed in the sacrificial ceremony of the Shang Dynasty in Guanghan and the figures carved on the stone surface of Zhang Xi 'an. These clothes were unearthed from Shang tombs in Xingan County, Jiangxi Province. For weapons, please refer to the Yinxu Site in Anyang and the Atlas of Ancient Weapons in China. Qinhan men and women clothing
The left picture of men's and women's clothing in Qin and Han Dynasties shows women in Qin Dynasty wearing narrow-sleeved robes (pottery figurines unearthed in the suburb of Lintong, Shaanxi Province). On the right is a man wearing a narrow sleeve robe of the Qin Dynasty (pottery figurines unearthed in Lintong, Shaanxi). Judging from the costumes of these two terracotta figures, there is little difference between men and women in daily life in Qin Dynasty, and they are all big chests and narrow sleeves, but the difference is that the costumes of women in Qin and Han Dynasties are real objects.
Women's dresses in Qin and Han Dynasties were plain gauze and Zen clothes (unearthed from No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, Hunan). The middle picture shows the colorful crimson yarn print (unearthed from the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, Hunan Province), with a body length of 130 cm and a sleeve length of 236 cm. The "Best" brocade dress on the right (unearthed from the Eastern Han Tomb in Minfeng, Xinjiang) is 133 cm long and the sleeve length is 189 cm. The style of clothing is typical of the nationalities in the western regions, but the materials and patterns have the characteristics of the Han nationality, and auspicious Chinese characters are woven, which is the product of the blending of people of all ethnic groups in the Eastern Han Dynasty. The material objects unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb are extremely rich, especially clothes. After more than 2000 years, the texture is still solid and the color is still bright, which reflects the exquisite craftsmanship and superb level of the ancient working people. There are dozens of kinds of costumes unearthed from Tomb No.1, such as plain yarn Zen dress, plain silk cotton robe, Zhu Luo yarn cotton robe, embroidered silk cotton robe, yellow plain embroidered robe, crimson silk skirt, plain silk skirt, plain silk stockings, silk shoes, scarves and silk gloves. Colors are brown, crimson, gray, vermilion, yellow brown, brown, pale yellow, cyan, green and white. Pattern making techniques include weaving, embroidery and painting. There are all kinds of animals, moire, rolling grass, geometric patterns and so on. Among them, the most surprising thing is this plain yarn Zen dress. The whole dress is as thin as cicada wings and as light as smoke. The length of clothes is 1.28 cm, and the length of sleeves is 1.90 cm. The collar and sleeves are also inlaid with 5.6 cm wide sandwich silk edges, but the total weight is only 48 grams, less than one or two. It is an extremely rare product. It is a man's waist, with a belt with a hook at the end; And women only use ribbons to tie their waists. The coronation of the Han emperor
Costumes of Qin and Han Dynasties: coronation map of emperor, coronation map and red crown map (refer to the written records and restoration drawings of pottery figurines unearthed from Han tombs in Jinan, Shandong Province and stone reliefs unearthed from Han tombs in Yinan). This picture was restored and drawn according to literature records and pattern data. The patterns on clothes are mostly brick paintings, lacquer paintings, silk paintings and portrait bricks of the same period. The crown is a ceremonial crown worn by the courtiers of ancient emperors when attending sacrificial ceremonies. Used as sacrificial clothing for emperors, princes, etc. At the top of the crown, there is a rectangular crown plate behind the front circle, and the "crown" is hung on the front and back of the crown plate.
According to the difference of quantity and material, crown is an important symbol to distinguish between noble and noble. According to the Han dynasty, the emperor's crown is twelve (twelve rows), made of jade. The color of the crown is mainly black. On both sides of the crown, there is a hole for inserting jade pieces to tie them with the bun. Tie ribbons on both sides of the quilt and tie them under the jaw. On the two ears of the ribbon, there is also a pearl jade, named "Yuner". Don't put it in your ear, just tie it to your ear to remind the wearer not to listen to rumors. Later generations "allow the ear not to smell" came from this. According to the regulations, anyone who wears a crown must wear a crown suit. The coronation suit is decorated with a mysterious coat and a scarlet bottom, with chapters on the top and bottom. In addition, there are kneepads, swords, Chiba and so on. Form a complete set of clothes. This dress system began in the Zhou Dynasty, went through the Han, Tang, Song and Yuan Dynasties, and lasted for more than two thousand years until the Qing Dynasty. Official clothes of Han dynasty
The official dress of the Han Dynasty is a gray diamond-shaped official dress. In Qin and Han dynasties, robes were the most expensive men's wear. Robes have always been considered as dresses. Their basic styles are mostly big sleeves, with obvious convergence of cuffs and lace on collars and sleeves. The collar of the robe is mainly bare collar, mostly cut into a heart shape, revealing underwear when wearing it. The hem of robes is often tied in rows, and some are cut into crescent shapes. This kind of robe is a common dress of officials in the Han Dynasty, and can be worn regardless of civil and military positions. Judging from the unearthed murals, pottery figurines and stone carvings, this kind of clothing is just a kind of coat. Anyone who wears this kind of clothes is usually lined with white underwear. Literati wear this kind of clothing, they must wear towels and the crown of Ignaz kogler on their heads. According to the custom of the Han Dynasty, Wen Guantong often wrote the music he played on bamboo slips with a brush. After writing, he inserted the pen into his ears and hair. Later, a system was formed. Every civil servant should insert a pen, the tip of which is not dipped in ink, and it is purely for decoration. Historically, it was called "white pen". Women's Shirts and Skirts in Wei and Jin Dynasties (Ⅱ)
Blouses and skirts in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties are characterized by ladies and attendants wearing long sleeves and striped skirts (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes murals) and long sleeves and striped skirts (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes donor murals restored). On both sides of the tunnel in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and below the Buddhist stories, there are often rows of neat men and women, ranging from a few inches to a few feet high. Among them, there are both powerful and prominent officials and ordinary civilians. These figures all gave money to build caves, and they painted their own statues on the walls, indicating that all the bodhisattvas and Buddha statues in the caves were provided by them, so they were called cave owners, also known as providers. Many providers are equipped with inscriptions, indicating the year number, title, ranking, surname and so on. The clothes painted in this painting were universal at that time, and the pottery women unearthed in Luoyang, Henan Province also wore this kind of clothes. It is characterized by double-breasted waist, wide sleeves and sleeves with different colors at the cuffs. A striped skirt. At that time, women wore skirts, besides sunglasses, there were other skirts. Jin people's Old Story of the East Palace recorded the costumes of the Prince and Princess, including red gauze double skirts, gauze double skirts, cinnabar cup skirts and other famous colors. It can be seen that the production of women's skirts is very exquisite, and the colors of materials used are also different.
Scholars in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties wore scarves and wide shirts (part of Sun Weigao). Gao was an outstanding figure painter in ancient China. Although it was written by Sun Wei, a painter in the Tang Dynasty, it has a strong charm of Wei and Jin Dynasties. The picture shows four scholars sitting cross-legged on the carpet, wearing small crowns or scarves and wide shirts. There is a waiter next to everyone, wearing wide-sleeved clothes. From the perspective of picture composition and character arrangement, it is the same as the brick-printed mural of "Seven Sages of Bamboo Forest" unearthed from the tomb of the Southern Dynasties in Xishanqiao, Nanjing. The costumes, figures and daily necessities of the characters are typical of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. One of the trouser pleats in the Southern and Northern Dynasties
Trouser pleats in the Southern and Northern Dynasties are the traditional costumes of northern nomadic people. The basic style is to wear knee-length sleeves above and fat trousers below. The fabric of this kind of clothing is often thick woolen cloth. Wearing trousers and jackets are collectively called trousers, but feudal nobles have to wear robes on their trousers. Only those who work, such as riders and fellow travelers, expose their trousers directly to the outside for convenience. Feudal nobles were not allowed to go out in short clothes and trousers. It was not until the Jin Dynasty that this habit changed. Pants in the Southern and Northern Dynasties were divided into wide-mouth pants and small-mouth pants. Wide-mouth pants were the fashion, so it was inconvenient to wear wide-mouth pants, so the trouser legs were tied with brocade belts, also called strap pants. This picture shows the folds of trousers. The fourth part is women's clothing in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties (pictures)
Clothing in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties The hairstyle in the Sui Dynasty is relatively simple and has not changed much. Generally, it is flat-topped, and the wool layer is piled up like a hat. This hairstyle was still used in the early Tang Dynasty, but the top was not as flat as that of the Sui Dynasty, and it was towering and mostly made into clouds. When I arrived in Emperor Taizong, the bun became higher and higher, and the forms became more and more abundant. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's daily clothes were mostly land, half-arm, silk, blouse, coat, long skirt (waist to armpit) and so on. Left 1 silk girl in gauze skirt (mural painting of Ganxian tomb in Shaanxi Province). Left 2 women's long skirts and half arms (tricolor swimming unearthed in the western suburbs of Xi, Shaanxi). Left 3 Ma Xie (unearthed in Turpan, Xinjiang). Left 4 Pu Caoxie (unearthed in Turpan, Xinjiang). The second crown of the Tang and Five Dynasties emperors (Figure)
Emperors in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties all wore crowns (part of Yan's "Emperors of Past Dynasties"). Yan was an outstanding painter in the Tang Dynasty, and once held an important position in the imperial court. He often took the political events in the Tang Dynasty as the theme and created many works with major themes. According to documents, Yan once painted the portrait of Emperor Taizong of Tang Dynasty and directly participated in the formulation of the official uniform system in Tang Dynasty. Therefore, the imperial costumes he painted are closer to reality and have certain reliability. The crown is a ceremonial crown worn by the courtiers of ancient emperors when attending sacrificial ceremonies. Used as sacrificial clothing for emperors, princes, etc. At the top of the crown, there is a rectangular crown plate behind the front circle, and the "crown" is hung on the front and back of the crown plate. According to the difference of quantity and material, crown is an important symbol to distinguish between noble and noble. Anyone wearing a crown should wear a crown suit. The coronation suit is decorated with a mysterious coat and a scarlet bottom, with chapters on the top and bottom. In addition, there are kneepads, swords, Chiba and so on. A kind of women's dress in the early Tang Dynasty
Women's Clothing in Sui Dynasty Most of the daily clothes of women in Sui Dynasty are swallow rings, coats, tops and skirts. Short skirts are the most basic form. One of its characteristics is that the skirt waist is tied higher, generally above the waist, and some even tied under the armpit, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. This picture shows the wearing of short-sleeved dresses, long skirts and narrow sleeves in the Sui Dynasty. One of the women's dresses in the middle Tang Dynasty (picture)
Women's dresses and skirts in the middle of the Tang Dynasty were the main clothing styles of women in the Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. This painting shows the middle Tang people wearing skirts and silk. Women's wear in the middle and late Tang Dynasty (Figure)
After the prosperity of women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothing became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. This picture shows the wearing of wide-sleeved cardigans, long skirts and silk in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. This is a noble costume in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, which is usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending ceremonies, getting married, etc. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "hairpin gift clothes".
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The third part of the late Tang Dynasty costumes (Figure)
The costumes of Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties flourished after the Tang Dynasty, and the influence of Hu Fu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's costumes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending ceremonies and getting married. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "hairpin gift clothes". This picture shows the costumes of the late Tang emperors in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. Comb a bun, put a hairpin comb in it, wear a shirt with straight collar and big sleeves, a high-waisted skirt, a gentry belt, silk and shoes.
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Women's facial makeup in Tang Dynasty (Figure)
Women's facial makeup in Sui and Tang Dynasties The makeup sequence of women in Tang Dynasty is roughly as follows: 1. Apply lead powder; Second, apply fat; Three goose yellow coats; Draw four eyebrows; Five points of oral fat; Six-sided painting; Seven decal cymbals. In ancient times, women often shaved off their original eyebrows, and then painted various shapes with a blue-black pigment made of burnt wicker or ore, called "Daimei". There are many names for women's eyebrows in the Tang Dynasty, including thin and long "moth eyebrows" and wide and wide "broad eyebrows". The eyebrow ornament of aristocratic women in "Chai Dai Tu" is a kind of wide eyebrow. The so-called "flower bud" is a decoration between the eyebrows. It is said that in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, one day, Princess Shouyang was lying under the eaves of the temple, and a plum blossom fell on her forehead, dyed and could not be brushed away. The ladies-in-waiting saw the difference, but they were eager to follow suit. In the Tang Dynasty, flower buds were colored, but there were also metal manufacturers. As for the face, it is because a young lady has spots on her cheeks, which is characterized as hiding. Everyone thought it was beautiful, so fighting for it became a temporary trend. Left 1 for the "flower makeup" woman; Figure 2 on the left shows a woman with "eyebrow makeup"; The third picture on the left is a woman with "yellow makeup". Figure 4 on the left shows a "Facebook" woman; Figures 5 and 6 on the left show "flower makeup" women.
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One of the northern class costumes in Liao Dynasty (Figure)
The northern class in Liao Dynasty was mainly dressed in robes, which were available to both men and women. Clothing features are generally left collar, round neck and narrow sleeves. There are knotted buttons on the robe, which are tied to the chest and then hang down to the knees. The colors of robes are gray, such as gray-green, gray-blue, ochre yellow, black-green and so on, and the patterns are relatively simple. Most of the robes of the aristocratic class are exquisite and have flat rust patterns. Dragon pattern is a traditional pattern of Han nationality, which appears on the clothing of Qidan men, reflecting the mutual influence of the two nationalities. This picture shows a round neck robe.
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One of the aristocratic costumes in Jin Dynasty (Figure)
This picture of the aristocratic costumes of the Jin Dynasty shows wearing narrow-sleeved robes and long skirts. The decorative patterns in the Jin Dynasty liked animals, especially deer. A pair of red deer and a male deer proudly stand on the jade carving board unearthed from the Orimijin tomb in the lower reaches of Songhua River. A doe stared at me, gentle and elegant. There is a small tree on the left and right, indicating that the deer lives in the forest and has the decorative characteristics of nomadic people. The carved bricks unearthed from Zhongshan Golden Tomb in Lanzhou are also engraved with a large number of deer patterns. As for the patterns found in Ma Chunjin's tomb and Huashan Huayu in Shanxi, the images of deer are also different, either slowly or galloping, full of rich flavor of life. This decorative feature is also reflected in a large number of clothes and costumes. In the history of the Jin Dynasty, there was a record that the dress of the Jurchen nationality was "written in Xionglu Mountain Forest". Deer prints are widely used, except for their beautiful appearance and convenient decoration. Another reason is that deer is homophonic with the Chinese character "deer", which means good luck. The skirt pattern in this picture is decorated with deer patterns. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, deer patterns were not accepted by the government, but they were still widely used by the people. It is more common to combine it with words such as "Fu" and "Shou" and call it "Fu, Lu and Shou".
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Only one Yuan Dynasty aristocratic casual dress (Figure)
Yuan dynasty aristocratic casual clothes map, narrow sleeve woven dragon brocade robe, corrugated hat, cloud shoulder, satin boots. In the Yuan Dynasty, the nobles attacked the Han system and widely woven dragon patterns on their clothes. According to Yuan Shi, the emperor's robes, kneepads, hostesses, belts and ribbon rings were all decorated with various dragon patterns. There are eight dragons in the robe alone, not counting the little dragons beside the leader's clothes. The dragon pattern was created by the Han people, and it represents the culture of the Chinese nation. After the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the northern minorities successively established political power, and all followed this model without exception. It was more prominent in the Yuan Dynasty, and it was widely used in other household appliances besides clothing. In the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolian men wore corrugated hats made of rattan, which had two styles of Fiona Fang, and the top was decorated with jewelry.
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The second part of the Yuan Dynasty aristocratic costumes (Figure)
In the Yuan Dynasty, nobles wore ancient crowns, and queens crossed their collars to make brocade robes. The characteristics of women's wear in Yuan Dynasty: Generally, women with higher status wear ancient crowns. Ordinary women wear fur hats. The clothes you wear are wide and loose, most of them hang down, mop the floor beside the clothes, and you will be supported by slaves when you walk. This is the image of the patron saint in Dunhuang murals in the Yuan Dynasty. In the Yuan Dynasty, a large amount of gold was used for clothing, more than in previous dynasties. The phenomenon of adding gold to fabrics appeared long before the Qin Dynasty. As for the use of Hanfu, it was about the Eastern Han Dynasty or later, mainly used in the court. It was not until the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties that the fashion of clothing weaving gold was popularized nationwide. There were eighteen kinds of gold for aristocratic costumes in Song Dynasty. Great progress has also been made in gold weaving technology in Liao and Jin areas, especially in Uighur areas, where the fabrics are the most popular and exquisite. After the Yuan Dynasty and Liao and Jin Dynasties, gold was better used in cloth than the previous generation.
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One of the costumes of Han women in Yuan Dynasty (Figure)
Most of the costumes displayed in the pictures of Han women's costumes in the Yuan Dynasty were taken from a Yuan tomb in the suburbs of Wuxi, including double-breasted tops with wide edges, short edges and no edges, vests with double-breasted slits and lapels with purple sauce silk edges, single-breasted skirts with cross stitches in the center of the front, and skirts with folded edges on both sides. There are two styles of shoes, one is palindrome; The other is a plain, pointed, knotted upper with lines. The sole is made of coarse cotton cloth. There are also pants, wallets and other things that women use. The picture above shows a double-breasted silk blouse; The middle picture shows a double-breasted silk quilt; Below is a silk skirt (unearthed).
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One of the half arms of Yuan skirt (Figure)
In the Yuan Dynasty, skirts and gowns were half-armed, with gowns as the main clothing. The style is slightly larger than that of Liao Dynasty. Men's official uniforms mostly come from the customs of the Han nationality, "making Luo, big sleeves, standing collar and right collar." Its status is reflected in the colors and patterns of clothing. The crown of public office is made of hoes and lacquered yarn to show its feet. Wear Yan clothes and narrow sleeves on weekdays. Servants with lower status often wear a short-sleeved shirt outside their uniforms, and women also have this custom (called a half-arm skirt). In addition to the robes commonly used in Liao and Jin dynasties, there is also a robe style, which is round neck, tight sleeves, wide hem and dense pleats. This photo shows the dress and half an arm.