Silk feels good, the material is good, there is no static electricity, and it absorbs sweat and breathes. The only thing is that it is not easy to clean, and it must be gently wiped or dry-cleaned by hand.
Cotton is sweat-absorbent, breathable, warm and comfortable to wear. Cotton and chemical fiber not only have a supporting role, but also will not be stuffy.
Chemical fiber is also a material for making close-fitting clothes, which is by no means inferior to other materials.
From the clothing point of view, there are the following options:
A, cotton: breathable, easy to dye and print, so most girls' underwear is made of this material to create a youthful atmosphere.
B. Polyester: Polyester superfine fiber, with good hygroscopicity and comfortable wearing, is also widely used in underwear.
C, nylon: synthetic fiber, strong and not easily deformed, used for most bra shoulder straps. Now many finishing underwear have joined the ranks of nylon.
D, spandex: synthetic fiber with strong elasticity is often used as bra shoulder strap to make the body move freely. It is also used for underwear lace, ultra-thin bra and seamless underwear.
E. Lycra: It is used to replace the rubber on tight underwear. It is characterized by elasticity, comfort and support. Now it is widely used in underwear, trousers and socks, which can make underwear more close-fitting, not easy to deform and pantyhose not easy to wrinkle.
F. Silk: French lace or Swiss embroidery is added to silk underwear.
G. TACTEL: Lightweight and bright TACTEL mixed Lycra is widely used in jumpsuits and underwear, and a new type of fiber named NYLSTAR with warm-keeping function is also used in pantyhose to make the legs warmer.
First of all, look at the fabric.
Thermal underwear in the market can be divided into three categories: high, medium and low. The fabrics used are 40 cotton, 32 cotton, polyester cotton (cotton content is between 30% and 40%) and pure chemical fiber. Among them, the products with inner and outer surfaces of more than 40 cotton are the best, with good softness, fineness, breathability and gloss, and will not pilling after washing.
Second, listen to the sound.
The new generation of thermal underwear products make the air permeability better, without "heat sensation", and also eliminate the "rustling" sound that is easy to make when wearing traditional thermal underwear. When buying, just shake it gently or rub it with your hands to hear if there is a "rustling" sound.
Third, by feeling
High-quality underwear is woven with superfine fiber (diameter within 1.2 filament) in the middle insulation layer. The clothing is soft and comfortable, and has good thermal insulation performance. When rubbed by hand, it feels soft and has no foreign body feeling. The carding and compounding process of the intermediate is also advanced, and the surface layer of the garment has a strong sense of integration with the intermediate, so that the wearing performance is better.
Fourth, try flexibility.
Thermal underwear has excellent elasticity. Lycra is added to the fabric and bottom material. Although the price is slightly higher, it feels good on the body, without feeling bloated, and the activities of all joints are very free.
Fabric characteristics of clothing
For formal social occasions, cotton, wool, silk and linen should be chosen. Sometimes, clothes made of pure leather are allowed.
1, cotton cloth: the floorboard of all kinds of cotton textiles. It is mainly used to make fashion, casual wear, underwear and shirts. Its advantages are easy to keep warm, soft and close-fitting, moisture absorption and air permeability. Its disadvantages are that it is easy to shrink and wrinkle, its appearance is not crisp and beautiful, and it must be ironed frequently when wearing it.
2. Flax: a kind of cloth made of hemp, flax, ramie, jute, sisal, banana and other hemp plant fibers. Generally used to make casual clothes and work clothes, now it is mostly used to make ordinary summer clothes. Its advantages are extremely high strength, good moisture absorption, heat conduction and air permeability. Its disadvantages are uncomfortable to wear and rough and stiff appearance.
3. Silk: The general name of all kinds of silk fabrics woven from silk. There are many varieties and different personalities. Especially suitable for women's wear. Its advantages are light, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, shiny, elegant and comfortable to wear. Its disadvantages are easy to wrinkle, easy to absorb, not strong enough and fast fading.
4. woolen cloth: also known as woolen cloth, it is the floorboard of all kinds of fabrics made of wool and cashmere. Usually suitable for making formal and high-grade clothes such as dresses, suits and coats. Its advantages are wrinkle resistance, wear resistance, soft feel, elegance, flexibility and warmth. Its main disadvantage is that it is difficult to wash and is not suitable for summer clothes.
5. Leather: tanned animal fur fabric. It is mainly used to make fashion and winter clothes. It can be divided into two categories: one is leather, that is, leather after depilation. The other is fur, that is, treated fur leather. Its advantages are lightness, warmth and elegance. Its disadvantages are high price, high storage and nursing requirements, and it is not suitable for popularization.
6. Chemical fiber: it can be divided into two categories: man-made fiber and synthetic fiber. Their advantages are bright colors, soft texture, crisp drape, smoothness and comfort. Their disadvantages are poor wear resistance, heat resistance, hygroscopicity and air permeability, easy to deform when heated and easy to generate static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothes, the overall grade is not high, and it is difficult to be elegant.
7. Blending: A fabric made by blending natural fibers and chemical fibers in a certain proportion, which can be used to make various garments. Its advantages are that it not only absorbs the respective advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fiber, but also avoids their respective disadvantages as much as possible, and its value is relatively cheap, so it is very popular.
Identification and introduction of fabrics
First, raw materials
Because underwear is close to human skin, the choice of fabric is particularly important, especially for sensitive skin or diseased skin. If the underwear fabric is not selected properly, it may cause harm to human body.
Fabric is made of yarn, and yarn is made of fiber. Therefore, the characteristics of fabric are closely related to the fibers that make up the fabric. Natural fibers include cotton, hemp, silk and wool. Chemical fibers include regenerated fibers and synthetic fibers. Regenerated fibers include viscose fiber, cuprammonia fiber and acetate fiber. Synthetic fibers include polyester, acrylic, nylon, etc. At present, traditional underwear fabrics mostly use cotton, silk, hemp, viscose, polyester, nylon and so on.
Cotton, silk and hemp in natural fibers have good hygroscopicity and breathability, and are ideal fabrics for underwear. Among them, silk is the best, soft and smooth, pure in color and suitable for all seasons. No matter how it is used, the gentle touch of silk is not as good as other fabrics. Cotton and linen are also important fabrics of underwear, especially cotton-linen blended underwear has good hygroscopicity and breathability.
However, natural fiber has poor shape retention and elasticity, which is not enough to supplement underwear, and chemical fiber shows its advantages at this time. Therefore, in order to give full play to their respective advantages, natural fibers and chemical fibers are often blended in an appropriate blending ratio to meet the requirements, or fabrics with different fibers are used in different parts. For example, the bra cup is made of cotton with good hygroscopicity, and the side belt is made of chemical fiber fabric with good elasticity. Nowadays, many underwear adopt double-layer design, that is, the layer close to the skin is made of natural fiber and the surface layer is made of beautiful chemical fiber lace. Underwear is thick and suitable for winter wear.
Second, the method
A sensory method, but it seems powerless to synthetic fibers and blended fabrics.
* Fiber can be roughly divided into the following four aspects.
1, feel: silk, viscose and nylon are very soft.
2, weight: nylon, acrylic, polypropylene
3. Strength: adhesive, acetate fiber, wool
The strength of protein fiber, viscose fiber and cuprammonia fiber decreased obviously after wetting.
4. Elongation: cotton and hemp
* Identification of silk and rayon by hand feeling method.
1, silk feels soft and elastic, and it has a silky sound and a cool feeling when rubbed lightly; Rayon, on the other hand, feels rough and hard and will not be wet and cold.
2. Silk is soft, bright and not dazzling; Rayon has a metallic luster.
Please hold the fabric before loosening it. Silk has fewer wrinkles than rayon.
4. Drop water on the cloth and rub it by hand. Rayon breaks easily, while silk is stronger.
* Differentiate various fibers by sensory characteristics.
Fiber name feel characteristics
Cotton-slender and soft, with little elasticity and easy wrinkling.
Hemp-rough and hard to the touch, often flawed.
Silk-shiny, soft and light, with a rustling sound and a cold feeling when pinched.
Wool has good elasticity, soft luster, warm feeling and is not easy to wrinkle.
Polyester fiber-elastic, smooth, strong, crisp and cool.
Nylon-not easy to break, elastic, smooth and light, not as soft as silk.
Vinylon-similar to cotton, dull luster, not as soft as cotton, poor resilience, easy to wrinkle.
Acrylic fiber-good warmth retention, high strength, lighter than cotton, soft and fluffy.
Viscose fiber-softer than cotton, with better surface gloss, but poorer fastness.
Second, the sign recognition method. One is the name of the fiber and the other is the content of the fiber.
Cotton, cotton, linen, linen, wool, silk viscose rayon
Acrylic spandex polyurethane polypropylene polypropylene PVC copper ammonia fiber copper ammonium
Polyester acetate fiber
Nylon polyamide nylon fiber
Elastan fiber polyurethane rayon nitrocellulose yarn
Tencel is an artificial cellulose fiber made of wood pulp extracted from trees produced in artificially managed forests. It is a natural fiber, which not only absorbs moisture and breathes air, but also has good strength and antistatic property. Bright color, excellent drape, silky feel, silky appearance and good spinnability, and can be blended or interwoven with other fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk, cashmere and chemical fiber. Casual clothes can also be used as industrial cloth and decorative cloth. In addition, Tencel fabric, after treatment in the dyeing process, can make the fabric surface show exquisite peach skin effect, which has become one of the current popular trends.
Model viscose substitute product has some characteristics of Tencel fiber, which is soft and smooth, pure in color and high-grade, because the price of model raw materials is lower than Tencel.
D and dtex are both units representing the linear density (fiber thickness) of fibers, and are defined as follows:
-D stands for "denier", that is, when the fiber with a length of 9000m weighs 1g, it is1g.
-dtex means "tex", that is, when the length is 1 0000m fiber weight1g, it is 1 tex.
The relationship between d and dtex:1d =1.11dtex.
The number of holes refers to the number of monofilaments contained in multifilaments.
For example, 1000D/200f is a product with fineness of 1000D composed of 200 monofilaments. The number of holes is related to the hardness of multifilament. The less the number of holes, the thicker the diameter of monofilament, the greater the hardness and the better the wear resistance.
Do you know Leica?
Fiber and its application
Lycra is a dark white, translucent or transparent filament with fineness of11dtex-1880 dtex. Lycra yarns of various fineness are mainly used for: transparent stockings; Circular knitwear (underwear, sportswear); Leg socks; Narrow belt; Warp-knitted fabrics for women's underwear and swimwear; Medical supplies (bumps, bandages, etc.). ); Footwear, etc.
Lycra in two yarn forms mainly appears in the form of core-spun yarn/covered yarn/covered yarn and bare yarn.
Core-spun yarn/covered yarn/covered yarn has the appearance and feel of covered fiber (such as cotton, wool, silk, etc.). ) and excellent elasticity, widely used in various fabrics.
Lycra bare yarn has good dyeing performance and wearability. Lycra bare yarn is often used in knitted underwear, socks, bandages, sportswear and so on. Lycra will stretch and become thinner after stretching. It is even more attractive when used in transparent stockings and other products.
Application of three in fabric
1. In woven fabrics: used for warp yarns, the fabric is extensible in the longitudinal direction; For weft yarns, the fabric has a cross direction.
Elasticity; If lycra is used in both warp and weft, the fabric will have two-way elasticity.
1. In knitted fabrics: Lycra bare yarn in weft knitted fabrics is used for light flat knitted fabrics; Lycra coated yarn is used for socks,
Cuffs of knitted pullovers, etc. Core-spun yarn is often used to knit sweaters and underwear. Wrapped yarn is commonly used in rib knitting machines. Lycra is mainly used in warp-knitted fabrics to increase fabric extensibility and make garments have excellent applicability and comfort.
3. Narrow-band fabrics: Narrow-band fabrics are widely used in underwear and clothing. Lycra provides durable narrow-band fabrics.
Comfortable high performance elasticity. It can be used to produce the thin and exquisite decorative belt of modern ultra-light underwear, and improve and maintain its shape and contour.
Advantages of four lycra in clothing
1. Very elastic, not easy to deform.
It can be used in combination with various fibers without changing the appearance and texture of the fabric. For example, wool+lycra fabric not only has good elasticity, but also has better fit, shape retention, drape and wearability after washing. Cotton+Lycra not only has the advantages of comfortable and breathable cotton fiber, but also takes into account the characteristics of good elasticity and difficult deformation that cotton does not have, making the fabric more close-fitting, fit, soft and comfortable. Lycra can add unique advantages to clothing: close-fitting comfort, free movement and long-term shape maintenance.
Lycra can be used for any fabric: cotton knitted fabric, double-faced wool fabric, silk poplin and polyamide fiber fabric.
Things and different cotton cloth, etc.
[13] Comfort of Lycra: People who love fashion are depressed by the busyness and competition of the city and are keeping their clothes.
At the same time, physical needs and comfort are unified. Lycra's clothing has the characteristics of comfortable fit and free movement, which meets the needs of people in contemporary society for clothing.
4. The influence of Lycra on styles.
Close-fitting clothes don't feel tight; Clothing has opening and closing, unconstrained fit and better drape; Children's clothes are full of vitality and can jump freely after wearing them.
5. The design features of Lycra.
No matter the loose or narrow design, it is equally comfortable and natural; No wrinkles, not too loose, perfect fit, fully reflecting the simple aesthetic feeling; Enjoy life at any time.
Lycra can handle most commonly used chemical reagents. Lycra-containing fabrics can be dyed, printed and finished according to most processes of other fiber processing made together. Lycra products are easy to maintain. Unless otherwise specified, the washing method required for most fiber components in the fabric can be adopted. Lycra can be washed with ordinary laundry soap and detergent, but chlorine bleach and strong alkali should be avoided.
Machine number of warp knitting machine
The machine number of the warp knitting machine is expressed by the number of needles per unit bed length.
E (machine number) =L (unit length, English 25.4mm)/t (needle pitch, unit mm)
The definition of machine number of warp knitting machine is the same as that of weft knitting machine, but it is different in the choice of length unit. For different warp knitting machines, the specified length of needle bed is as follows:
(1) 1 inch: a method commonly used in modern warp knitting machines, such as E28, that is, 28 stitches/inch.
(2)30mm: domestic model Z303 adopts 30mm, for example, 32 stitches /30 mm and 24 stitches /30mm.
(3) 1 inch (made in Germany, 23.6 mm): The old machine was used earlier, but it is no longer used.
(4)25mm: used on sewing machines, generally denoted by f, for example, 12F, that is, 12 stitches /25mm.
(5) Pipe braiding machines are generally expressed by pipe spacing, such as 3, 5, 7, 10 mm.
(6) On the Raschel warp knitting machine, the machine number was previously expressed by the number of 2 inches, that is, the number of needles on the 50.8mm needle bed was expressed by er, for example, ER32. Now use 1 inch stitches. For example, the machine number is 24, so it is written as E24.
The machine numbers of general multi-bar warp knitting machines are E 12/24, E 18 and E24. Only the machine number of MRE32/24SU is E28. The machine numbers of jacquard warp knitting machines are sometimes expressed as E6/ 12, E7/ 14 and E9/ 14. In RJWB series, the machine number is expressed as E24/ 12, that is, the ground comb is equipped with the machine number, and the jacquard bar is equipped with the machine number. In addition, the machine number is related to the use of its products. Generally, E 14 and E 18 are used to produce curtains and tablecloths, and E 18 and E24 are used to produce lace and mesh clothing. The machine number is related to the working width of the machine.
Characteristics of warp knitted fabric and weft knitted fabric
Weft-knitted fabrics, such as sportswear, underwear, socks, hand-knitted sweaters, etc., are woven into loops with weft yarns in turn, while warp knitting is that all knitting needles are padded at the same time to form loops.
Compared with weft knitted fabrics, the ductility of warp knitted fabrics is generally poor. Most weft knitted fabrics have obvious extensibility in the transverse direction. The extensibility of warp knitted fabric is related to the number of stripes and structure. Some warp knitted fabrics are extensible in the transverse and longitudinal directions, but some fabrics have good dimensional stability. Warp-knitted fabrics can adopt different structures to reduce the drop-off defects caused by broken yarns and holes. In addition, warp knitted fabrics can knit almost all kinds of fabric structures, because they can use yarns with different thicknesses and different weft inserts to form different net structures and easily change patterns. On the other hand, it is difficult for warp knitted fabrics to obtain shaped products like some weft knitted fabrics. Generally, it has to go through auxiliary processes such as cutting and sewing, and warping is needed in order to weave smoothly.
Classification of common textile concepts
First, common concepts:
1, warp direction, warp-fabric length direction; The yarn in this direction is called warp; The number of yarn arrangements within 1 inch is warp density (warp density);
2. Weft direction, weft-fabric width direction; This directional yarn is called weft, and the number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is weft density (weft density);
3. Density-used to indicate the number of yarns per unit length of woven fabric, generally 1 inch or10cm. China's national standards stipulate that the yarn count within 10 cm is used to express the density, but textile enterprises are still used to using the yarn count within 1 inch to express the density. “45x45/65438+。
4, width-the effective width of the fabric, usually expressed in inches or centimeters, common are
36 inches-narrow width, 44 inches-medium width, 56-60 inches-wide width. Fabrics over 60 inches are ultra-wide. Generally, the width is marked after the density, such as X45/ 108X58/60 "",that is, the width is 60 inches.
5. Gram weight-The gram weight of a fabric is generally the grams of fabric weight per square meter. Gram weight is an important technical index of knitted fabric, and it is usually considered as an important technical index of woolen fabric. The gram weight of denim is generally expressed in ounces, that is, the number of ounces per square yard of fabric weight, such as 7 ounces, 12 ounces of denim, etc.
6. Yarn-dyed fabric-called "dyed fabric first" in Japan refers to the process of dyeing yarns or filaments first and then weaving with colored yarns. This fabric is called "yarn-dyed fabric". Factories that produce yarn-dyed fabrics are generally called dyeing factories, such as denim, and most shirt fabrics are yarn-dyed fabrics;
Second, the classification of textiles:
1, classified according to different treatment methods.
(1), woven fabric: a fabric made of yarns arranged vertically to each other, that is, transverse and longitudinal systems, interwoven on a loom according to certain rules. There are denim, brocade, denim, linen and so on.
Woven fabrics are classified in many ways.
(1) Woven fabrics are divided into pure textiles, blended fabrics and interwoven fabrics.
Pure textile-refers to the fabric woven by pure spinning yarns with the same fibers in the warp and weft directions. The performance of this fabric mainly reflects the characteristics of fibers.
For example, the warp and weft of pure cotton fabric are cotton yarns (threads), such as pure cotton khaki 21x21108x58, and the warp and weft of viscose fiber fabric are viscose fiber yarns.
Blended fabric-refers to the fabric woven by two or more different kinds of fiber blended yarns, such as cotton-linen blended yarn, polyester-cotton blended yarn, wool-polyester blended yarn, etc. Their biggest feature is that the fibers are mixed together in the spinning process (usually in the "opening and cleaning process" before spinning).
Interwoven fabric-refers to the fabric interwoven by yarns or filaments with different fibers in the warp and weft directions, such as nylon filaments in the warp direction, silk-wool interwoven fabric with viscose in the weft direction and silk-wool yarns in the weft direction.
(2) According to the fiber length and fineness of woven fabrics, they are divided into cotton fabrics, medium-long fabrics, wool fabrics and filament fabrics.
Cotton fabric-the length of cotton fiber is about 30 mm, and the yarn composed of this length of fiber is cotton yarn (in order to blend with cotton fiber, chemical fiber should be cut into this length-cotton chemical fiber), and the fabric composed of this yarn is cotton fabric.
Wool fabric-the length of wool is about 75 mm (different varieties are quite different), and the yarn made of this length of fiber is wool yarn (in order to blend with wool fiber, chemical fiber should be cut into this length-wool chemical fiber), and the fabric made of this yarn is wool fabric. Medium-length fabric-the fiber length is between cotton and wool.
Medium-long fiber, the yarn is called medium-long fiber yarn, and the fabric made of this yarn is medium-long fabric.
Filament fabrics-fabrics woven with long filaments, such as rayon fabrics and polyester fabrics.
(c) Woven fabrics are divided into plain weave, twill weave, satin weave and other weaves.
According to the use of woven fabrics, they are divided into clothing, household textiles and industrial fabrics.
(2) Knitted fabric: a fabric made by knitting yarns into loops, which can be divided into weft knitting and warp knitting.
Weft-knitted fabric is formed by feeding weft yarns into the working needles of knitting machine from weft direction, so that the yarns are bent into loops in turn and interspersed with each other.
Warp-knitted fabrics are made of one or several groups of parallel yarns that are looped on all the working needles of the warp knitting machine at the same time.
Weft-knitted fabrics are used for sweaters and socks, and warp-knitted fabrics are often used as underwear fabrics.
In weft knitting, the yarn moves horizontally (or circularly) from one side of the machine to the other, and a new knitting loop can be formed by cooperating with the movement of knitting needles. The yarn of weft-knitted fabric runs horizontally, and the fabric is made up of a row of stitches connected up and down with knitting needles along the direction of the row of stitches. All the loops in a row are made of one yarn. Weft-knitted fabrics can be finished on flat knitting machine or circular knitting machine.
Warp knitting is the longitudinal movement of a group of warp yarns in the warp direction, which cooperates with the movement of knitting needles to form new knitting loops. Warp-knitted fabrics and warp knitting machines that produce them are essentially different from weft-knitted fabrics and weft-knitted machines that produce weft-knitted fabrics. In warp-knitted fabrics, yarns are warp-knitted, just like warp yarns of woven fabrics, which are fed by warp beams, and a large number of yarns arranged in parallel are wound on the warp beams. Similar to the warp beam in weaving, the yarn travels along the warp direction in the warp knitted fabric. A vertical loop is formed in one line, and then it moves diagonally to another line, forming another loop in the next line. The yarn moves zigzag from one side to the other in the fabric along the length direction, and each loop in a row is composed of different yarns.
Weft knitted fabrics account for the largest proportion in knitwear.
Weft-knitted fabrics mainly include basic weft-knitted fabrics (also known as flat knitted fabrics, rib knitted fabrics and double-reverse knitted fabrics) and special weft-knitted fabrics (double-rib knitted fabrics, double-sided knitted fabrics, plush, knitted terry, knitted velvet and so on). ).
Warp-knitted fabrics are mainly divided into warp knitting, warp knitting and warp knitting.
(3) Nonwovens: Loose fibers are bonded or stitched. At present, there are two main methods: bonding and puncture. This processing method can greatly simplify the working procedure, reduce the cost and improve the labor productivity, and has broad development prospects.
2, according to the fabric yarn raw material classification.
(1), pure textile: the raw materials of the fabric are all the same fiber, including cotton fabric, wool fabric, silk fabric and polyester fabric.
(2) Blended fabric: the fabric is blended into yarn by two or more different kinds of fibers, including polyester-viscose, polyester-nitrile, polyester-cotton and other blended fabrics.
(3) Blended fabric: The raw material of the fabric is made of single yarns of two kinds of fibers, which are blended with low-elastic polyester filaments and medium-long yarns respectively, or blended with polyester staple fibers and low-elastic polyester filaments.
(4) Interwoven fabric: The two directional systems of the fabric are composed of different fiber yarns, such as antique satin interwoven with real silk and rayon, Nifu spinning interwoven with nylon and rayon, etc.
3. According to whether the raw materials that make up the fabric are dyed or not.
(1), white fabric: fabric made of raw materials that have not been bleached and dyed, also known as raw fabric in silk weaving.
(2) Colored fabrics: fabrics made of bleached raw materials or fancy yarns, and silk weaving is also called cooked fabrics.
4. Novel fabric classification
(1), bonded cloth: it is made by bonding two pieces of cloth back to back. The adhesive cloth is organic fabric, knitted fabric, non-woven fabric, vinyl plastic film, etc. And they can be combined in different ways.
(2) Flocking fabric: the fabric is covered with short and dense fiber fluff, which has a velvet style and can be used as clothing and decorative materials.
(3) Foam laminated fabric: Foam is attached to woven fabric or knitted fabric as the base fabric, which is mostly used as winter clothes.
(4) Coated fabric: The base fabric of woven fabric or knitted fabric is coated with polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and neoprene, which has excellent waterproof function.
Pay special attention to the differences between several concepts:
1, the yarn is dyed and then woven with colored yarn, such as many shirt fabrics, jeans and so on. The corresponding factories are called XXX dyeing and weaving factory, dyeing and yarn factory, etc.
Printing and dyeing-printing and dyeing woven fabrics, such as many printed fabrics with rich patterns. The corresponding factories are called XXX printing and dyeing factory, dyeing and finishing factory, etc.
2. Blending-two or more different fibers are mixed together in the spinning process and then woven with blended yarn;
Interleaving-a fabric woven by different kinds of yarns or fiber filaments (bundles) in both warp and weft directions.
Familiar with the numbers on the wool trademark
"1" means domestic wool; "2" refers to imported wool; "3" refers to the blending of imported wool and viscose fiber;
"4" indicates a new product; "5" means domestic wool and viscose blended.
"6" means imported wool blended acrylic fiber, "7" means domestic wool blended acrylic fiber and "8" means pure acrylic fiber.
The last two digits on the trademark indicate the yarn count of wool. The more yarn counts, the finer the yarn, for example, 24 counts is thinner than 13 threads.
If the wool trademark number is "1 13", it means that it is 13 domestic wool; "224" is 24 imported wool, and so on.
Chemical fibers include man-made fibers and synthetic fibers.
1, artificial fiber is made of natural polymer compounds, such as viscose fiber, artificial protein fiber, bamboo fiber, chitin fiber, etc. The colorful artificial cotton-padded clothes worn by girls are made of bark, wheat straw, bagasse, reed, peanut shell and cotton wool through chemical treatment.
The performance of viscose fiber is similar to cotton, such as good hygroscopicity, so wearing artificial cotton clothes will not make people feel stuffy.
Viscose filament, also called rayon, can be woven into exquisite and beautiful silk products. Viscose staple fiber has a closer relationship with people. Man-made wool is wool viscose staple fiber, which is an indispensable raw material in wool spinning. At present, most blended wool fabrics on the market are blended with artificial wool in different proportions. Common polyester-viscose tweed, viscose gabardine, viscose brocade, wool-viscose tweed and wool-viscose coat all contain viscose fiber.
2. Synthetic fibers basically come from the same ancestor-underground fuel depot, and are polymerized from organic chemical products.
(1) acrylic fiber, also known as cashmere fiber, is very similar to wool in nature, so people call it "synthetic wool". It is polymerized from acrylonitrile. Acrylic fiber is fluffy, soft and elastic, and its heat insulation performance is even better than wool. Its strength is 1-2.5 times higher than that of wool, so clothes made of "synthetic wool" are more durable than those made of natural wool. These are its advantages. Acrylic fiber, on the other hand, has poor hygroscopicity and can't be soaked, giving people a sultry and uncomfortable feeling. It also has a fatal weakness, which is poor wear resistance. Acrylic wool staple fiber is mainly used to make all kinds of wool textiles, such as bulky yarn, acrylic and wool blended yarn, and acrylic women's tweed and acrylic blended tweed with various colors. It can also be used to make acrylic artificial fur and nylon plush.
(2) Polyester, formerly known as "Dacron", is formed by melt spinning, and POY forms polyester yarn through stretching, texturing and other processes. The most prominent feature is good shape retention, and wearing polyester clothes is refreshing and healthy. After washing, it is flat and crisp as usual, so it doesn't need ironing. Polyester is widely used, and there are all kinds of polyester cotton, wool, polyester and polyester-bonded clothes on the market.
Pure chemical fiber fabric:
Pure polyester tweed. The surface is smooth and clean, the stripes are clear, the feel is quite cool, it is easy to wash and dry quickly, and it is easy to fluff after wearing for a long time. Spring and autumn are suitable for both men and women.
(2) Quiba. 50-65% polyester, 50-35% viscose yarn, strong wool feeling, plump and thick hand feeling, good elasticity and low price. Spring and autumn clothes are suitable for both men and women.
③ Knitted pure polyester. Soft texture, good elasticity, plump and crisp appearance, easy to wash and dry. Suitable for men's and women's spring and autumn clothing woolen cloth, commonly known as "coarse material" Because the quality of raw materials is very different, the quality of fabrics is also very different.
Blended textiles:
Polyester wool tweed, 55% polyester, 45% wool, thick texture, full feel, high strength, good fastness, crisp and wrinkle-resistant. Suitable for autumn and winter clothing.
② The weather is cool. Among them, 55% polyester and 45% wool are thin but durable. They are cool, smooth, crisp, wrinkle-resistant, shrink-proof, and easy to wash faster. They are suitable for spring and summer clothes, but not for winter clothes.
③ Polyester-wool viscose tweed, 40% polyester, 30% wool and 30% viscose yarn, with fine and clean surface, strong wool feeling, clear and crisp stripes, good fastness, low price and economy.
(3) Nylon, also known as nylon, is polymerized from caproamide. Its wear resistance is the champion of all natural fibers and chemical fibers. Nylon staple fiber is mainly used for blending with wool or other wool-type chemical fibers. In many textiles, nylon is mixed to improve wear resistance, such as viscose gabardine, viscose flannel, viscose eye brocade, viscose wool three-in-one gabardine and wool viscose brocade.
(4) Polypropylene, process flow: propylene (polymerization)-polypropylene (PP) chips-melt spinning-polypropylene fibers-post-treatment-woven or non-woven fabrics or handicrafts, decorative fabrics, aluminum alloy tops, geotechnical materials and carpets. Dyeing is very difficult.
Nowadays, the popular fabrics are generally not pure polyester, nylon and polypropylene. In order to obtain various properties, we often blend various fibers to weave fabrics with excellent properties. Such as the most common polyester/cotton, polyester/wool and so on.
Identification and content determination of textile fibers
When identifying and quantifying fibers, firms should pay attention to:
The fiber content of (1) is expressed by the percentage of a certain fiber content in the finished product to the total fiber content, not by the raw material feeding ratio when the product is woven, because the loss of different fibers after various processes such as textile printing and dyeing is not exactly the same. In addition, from the market inspection and spot check, its fiber content also refers to the finished products sold.
(2) The identification method of fiber content has different expressions in different industries: the wool textile industry calculates the fiber content in combination with the moisture regain; In cotton spinning industry, fiber content is measured according to the dry weight of fiber. In addition, for cashmere, wool, cotton and hemp blended products with the same performance, the content was determined by microscope, and the results were non-dry weight and undetermined moisture regain content. In order to prevent exceeding the tolerance, customers should pay attention to the conditions indicating the fiber content when commissioning tests and making labels.
(3) There are two ways to identify the fiber content of blended and interwoven products of two or more fibers: one is to arrange them in descending order; Second, the natural fiber comes first (according to cashmere (cashmere, camel hair), wool, rabbit hair, silk (mulberry silk, tussah silk), hemp (flax, ramie, jute and hemp) and cotton), and the chemical fiber comes last (according to polyester, nylon, acrylic, viscose, spandex, polypropylene, cuprammonia and acetate fiber). Below.
Viscose fiber 30% wool 25% nylon 20% polyester fiber 15% rabbit hair 10%
(4) The tolerance range of fiber content is generally controlled within the range of 65438 0.5%, which is normal, and more than 5% is out of limit. Between 1.5% and 5.0%. Whether it exceeds the standard depends on the raw materials and specific varieties of the products. Please refer to FZ/T0 1053-.