2. refers to hanfu. Mao Dun's On Kowloon Road: "Everything is blue cloth or blue cloth's Tang suit." It refers to all the clothes with China national characteristics.
3. Synonymy refers to Hanfu. Han costumes.
The original meaning of Tang costume refers to Han costume in Tang Dynasty, one is traditional costume, which was popular in the early Tang Dynasty and basically followed the traditional costume system of women in China since the Eastern Han Dynasty. It is obviously different from the modern concept of Tang suit.
Tang dynasty clothes
The word "clothes", in fact, clothes are clothes, petticoats are petticoats, and clothes are put on. Dress actually refers to modern skirts, and clothes and petticoats are separated. This kind of women's dress is not a jumpsuit, but two pieces to wear until the end of the Ming Dynasty.
The way to wear a coat is basically to tie a knot in the right hand horizontal collar or the inner front. There is a long skirt around the skirt below, and the coat is either tucked in or naturally loose. Later, this loose coat has been lengthened to cover the knees, and later developed into the back of the Ming Dynasty.
With the development, women's blouses in Tang Dynasty were generally divided into three types: jackets, blouses and blouses.
Yan is a coat or cotton-padded jacket with a narrow and short body. The coat is longer than the robe, the body is loose, and there are also coats or cotton-padded clothes. Yan and coat have narrow sleeves and long sleeves.
Shirts are sleeveless sweatshirts, which absorb sweat and have double-breasted and right-breasted buttons.
You can also wear shirts outside in spring and autumn, but unlike short-sleeved shirts, the latter has developed into the second half. In the past, the shape of the skirt has always been a rectangular square straight skirt, which is somewhat similar to a kimono skirt.
The style of the square skirt is stiff, which makes women look bad. Therefore, in the Tang Dynasty, skirts were popular in the form of high waist and wide swing mopping the floor, which not only revealed the curvy beauty of human body structure, but also showed rich and elegant demeanor.
The structure of this skirt must be organically adapted to the main structure of the human body, so it is a pleated skirt with a round bottom, or a flared skirt.
Second, in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, China's traditional aesthetic concept was strengthened in clothing and began to go back to the ancients. From showing women's figure, gradually returning to the Qin and Han dynasties, the style of taking off the coat and sleeves, elegant as a fairy, and the clothing style is getting fatter and fatter. This style has always influenced the basic concept of women's wear in China in the later period. It is both loose and fat, and naturally becomes the object required by ethics, soft and natural, and intangible. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, women's dresses were gorgeous and generally similar to dresses. They wear tube tops directly inside-tube tops are underwear originally, and they were combined with skirts in the Tang Dynasty. It's loose and natural without a belt. Real Tang suit
It is further proof of the transition from women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty to ancient etiquette clothing. This style is a multi-layer dress, which is very heavy and bulky to wear. First of all, I put on many layers of wide-sleeved tops, one on top of the other. Then I put on a heavy sweeping skirt, which is the famous "Tang skirt". Then I put on a wide-sleeved coat outside. Although cumbersome, it gives people a sense of stability and hierarchy. It is worth mentioning that the famous imperial kimono "Twelve Orders" in ancient Japan evolved from this kind of clothing. The Japanese call it "Tang suit", that is, clothes from the Tang Dynasty. The style has not changed much, but a little Japanese national characteristics have been added to the style.
There are usually two interpretations of "Tang suit", the most natural and reasonable interpretation is "Tang suit"; Another far-fetched explanation is "Hanfu for Chinese in Chinatown". The origin of the latter statement smacks of "exporting to the domestic market". In western countries, the English pronunciation of "Zhonghua Street" is similar to that of "Tang", so it is translated into "China City", so the Hanfu worn by these "Tang people" on the streets of China is called "Tang Zhuang".
According to Ms. Yu Ying, the main designer of the Tang suit worn by APEC heads of state, "Tang suit" should be the general name of China clothing. Therefore, when the design team discussed the name of the suit after designing it, the process of deciding to name it "Tang suit" was deeply influenced by the interpretation of "export to domestic sales".
Nowadays, the popular "Tang costume" in Chinese mainland is the Chinese costume in the late Qing Dynasty, that is, the Chinese costume in Chinatown. In fact, this kind of clothing is the continuation and improvement of Manchu mandarin jacket, belonging to the category of full-set clothing, and has no similarity with "Tang suit" (Hanfu) in style and style.
Unfortunately, the vast majority of people in China mistake this all-mandarin jacket, which originated from "the cheongsam in Chinatown", for "the costume of the Tang Dynasty".
The name of the word "Tang suit" itself originated from overseas. In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, its reputation spread far and wide overseas. Later, overseas countries called China "Tang people". "Biography of Foreign True Wax in Ming History" said: "People in the Tang Dynasty were also called China people by various (foreigners). All overseas countries are definitely. " Therefore, the Chinese community in Southeast Asia is called "Chinatown", while overseas Chinese call themselves Tang people, precisely because the Tang Dynasty has been a dynasty that China people are proud of since ancient times.
It is logical to call the traditional Chinese clothes worn by "Tang people" in "Chinatown" "Tang clothes", which was originally the customary name of China people for traditional clothes overseas, and also the internationally recognized name of China people. Unfortunately, the popularity of the word "Tang suit" has seriously deviated from its original intention, and it is easy to cause misunderstanding among ordinary people, including intellectuals who lack historical knowledge. For this reason, at the beginning of the 20th century, "Tang suit" meant "Tang Dynasty". Under the social background of the coexistence of Chinese and Western costumes at that time, compatriots in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao used "Tang suit" and "suit" to distinguish Chinese and Western costumes, and naturally did not know "Tang suit". However, at the 200 1 Shanghai APEC meeting, China, as the host, invited the leaders of the Asia-Pacific economies to wear ". Although it is the fusion of tradition and modernity since the Qing Dynasty, it does not rule out the inevitability of its popularity or the embodiment of China's status and grace in the international family. However, this not only gave birth to the Hanfu movement, but also brought immeasurable obstacles to the real revival of Tang costumes (Hanfu).
This "Tang suit" evolved from the jacket of the Qing Dynasty, and its style and structure have four characteristics: one is a stand-up collar with an opening in the front center of the coat; Second, it has sleeves, that is, sleeves and clothes are not sewn integrally, mainly in a flat cutting way; Third, it is a pair of lapels, or it can be an oblique lapel; The fourth type is the right-angle buckle, that is, the buckle, which consists of two parts: the knot and the buckle. In addition, in terms of fabrics, brocade fabrics are the main ones. Obviously, this "Tang costume" is not the costume of the Tang Dynasty.
Wotou Shamao and T-shirt are the most important clothes for men in Tang Dynasty.
Wotou is a kind of black cloth in Baotou. The Tang Dynasty was a time when "writing head" prevailed, and the style of "Shantou" was also full of changes, especially during the more than 100 years from the early years of Tang Wude to Kaiyuan, the shape of "Shantou" experienced several major changes.
Men's wear in the Tang Dynasty was mainly round neck robes. Traditional crown clothes are only used occasionally on grand occasions, such as ancestor worship and ancestral halls. Others give priority to "hoeing robe shirts". Robes are widely used, from emperors to officials, and can be worn at ceremonies and banquets, and even used as court clothes.
The robes in different periods have different styles. The sleeves of early robes were mostly big sleeves, but big sleeves were not suitable for overseas nationalities. Because of the cold in the north, it is not convenient to use large sleeves, but narrow sleeves that tightly wrap the arms. With the mutual penetration of customs and habits between the north and the south, this tight-fitting and narrow-sleeved robe style was also accepted by the Han people and became the representative of the robe style in the Tang Dynasty.
Tang suit (Manchu style) Tang suit (Han style) Tang suit-Tang suit evaluation
At a time when China's economy is on the rise, the prosperity of "Tang suit" seems to be a symbol of the revival of Chinese civilization. However, despite the grand symbolic significance behind it, "Tang suit" itself is actually a rather vague concept. What is the connotation of this term? There are many expressions in fashion, such as "Hanfu" and "Huafu". Many people are puzzled by the term "Tang costume": Is there nothing to wear when China is as big as the Tang Dynasty? In fact, it is not impossible for real people in the Tang Dynasty to wear long gowns and big sleeves, or even robes and gowns that are closer to people in the Ming Dynasty (actually the same thing) to return to fashion. "Big sleeve robe" is only a vague understanding of "ancient costume" by modern people (from Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties to the end of Ming Dynasty, the main styles of China traditional people's costumes were "horizontal collar and right button, concealed button tie, wide sleeves and Emei belt", in which "horizontal right button" was only a clothing feature, but "horizontal right button belt".
Since the Tang Dynasty, these costumes have been officially called "Hanfu" or "Hanfu" (meaning "traditional costumes of the Han nationality" or "national costumes of the Han nationality"), and they have formed their own system and come down in one continuous line. For nearly 4,000 years, they have profoundly influenced neighboring countries such as Japan, North Korea (South Korea) and Vietnam. Among them, Japanese "kimono" (the style of deep clothes in Hanfu), the real "Tang suit" is more suitable for solemn occasions such as sacrifice and adult ceremony, while its "narrow clothes and narrow sleeves" are more suitable for labor and farming and daily occasions. With the rise of the "Hanfu Revival" movement with the Internet as the starting point and young urban white-collar workers as the backbone, the real Hanfu (Hanfu) is not "out of reach" in modern people's field of vision. The word "Tang costume", which originated from "Tang people" in the eyes of foreigners, is being questioned more and more.