Precautions:
1, (civil servants: refers to civil servants in Beijing. Outside the civil service: refers to the civil service outside the capital, that is, the local civil service. Military attache: refers to the military attache in Beijing. Foreign military attache: refers to the military attache outside the capital, that is, the local military attache. No inflow: generally not included in the ninth and eighteenth grades. )
2. Patchwork in the Qing Dynasty-Patchwork in the Qing Dynasty, also known as "patchwork coat", has a collarless double-breasted length, which is shorter than a robe and longer than a coat. There is a patchwork in front and back, and the patchwork in the Qing Dynasty is slightly smaller than that in the Ming Dynasty. It was the main official dress in Qing Dynasty, and it was worn in many places and times. All the makeup clothes are stone blue. It is the main symbol to distinguish the ranks of civil and military officials. Honest officials are divided into nine grades and eighteen grades. Civil servants embroider birds, military officers embroider beasts (that's why the idiom devil wears Prada comes into being)
Civilian clothing logo:
The official system of the Qing Empire was set up strictly and meticulously, and both civil servants and military commanders were divided into nine grades and eighteen grades. The most obvious sign of grade level is reflected in the pattern of mending clothes on the chest, which makes people clear at a glance.
Yipin Guan Wen xian he bu fu
A surname, Taibao, Dr. Guanglu, ministers of various ministries, censors of Douchayuan and university students of Diange all wear them.
Yipin Xianhe Bufu.
Er Pin Guan Jinwen Ji Bu House
Prince Shao Shi, Shaofu, Shaobao, Senior Minister, provincial governors, governors, ministers, Bachelor of imperial academy, assistant ministers of various ministries and institutes, and officials of the Ministry of Internal Affairs all wear second-class golden pheasant mending clothes.
San pin Wen Guan peacock bufu
The doctor, the left and right deputy censors, Zong Ren Fu Cheng, Shi, Yan Yunshi, Dali Temple Qing, Shuntian, Fengtian, Shangyi and the provincial judges all wore three casual clothes.
Si Pin Guan Wen yuan mutton bu
Dr. Zhong Xian, deputy envoy of the General Political Department, Dali Temple, Hongkuo Temple, Shun Tianfu Fu Cheng, Fang Guan of the Mausoleum, prefects of various governments, imperial academy Jinshi, Shang Chazheng, Shang Shanzheng officials, political envoys, provincial governors, frugal censors of Douchayuan, etc. Everyone wears mandarin ducks to mend their clothes.
Five-product civil silver pheasant patch service
General Political Department, Guanglu Temple Division, Shao Qing Division, Sixth Division, Supervision and Suggestion Division, The Cabinetshi Read Division, Yuan Wailang of various ministries, Deputy History of Salt Transportation Division, and states' knowledge, etc.
Six products official crane maintenance service
Chief officials, court judges, officials, Cheng Si, Deputy Minister of Internal Affairs, Director of Armed Forces, Director of Imperial Hospital, Director of Wang Fu, official judge of Beijing Government, Director of Beijing Hanging, and Commander of Military Forces all wear six-product crane mending clothes.
Qi pin bu fu
State judges, imperial academy judges, China calligraphers of the Credentials Department, imperial academy editors, Governor of the General Political Department, Emperor Shi, Dr. Taichang Temple, imperial academy Cheng Jian, treasurer of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, seven-pin pen paste type of ministries and hospitals, and county magistrate all wear seven-pin auxiliary clothes.
Eight-product official quail patch service
Military attache clothing label:
The imperial doctor in Taiyuan, the chief craftsman in the Ministry of Internal Affairs, the eminent monks in the Hanging Monastery, the Confucian scholars in various states, and the master of Hongkuo Temple all wear quail to mend their clothes.
Jiu Pin Guan Wen Lan Quebufu
Nine-pin pen paste type in each department and hospital, governors in each government, secretary in charge of punishments, etc. They all wear nine stitches of blue finch mending clothes.
Yipin Wuzhi Qilin Bufu
General Jianwei, Minister of Guard, Minister of Guard, Commander-in-Chief of the Eight Banners, General stationed in the provinces, and prefect all wear the product of Kirin's supplementary service.
Er Wu pin Shi e zi bu fu
General Wu Xian, commander of the left and right wing forward, commander of the expansion of the Eight Banners, nine magistrates, deputy commanders of the Eight Banners, deputy commanders of the provinces, company commanders, ministers of scattered ranks, etc. All wear second-class lion auxiliary clothes.
San pin Wu zhi Bao bu fu
First-class guard, Yuanmingyuan camp headquarters, military expansion participation, Xiao Qi participation, ancient tomb administrator, paddock administrator, participation, first-class expansion
Garrison leaders, guerrillas, etc. Wear three-line leopard patch clothes.
Siwupin Hu Zhifu
Second-class guards, deputy envoys, general manager of Nanyuan, eunuchs in the palace, dusi and general manager of Jinshi all wear four-product tiger auxiliary clothes.
Wu Pin Wu Zhixiong qianfufu
Liu Pin Wuzhibiao Bufu
The third-class guard, the deputy commander of the infantry, the customs guard, the former general guard and the former general guard all wear five-pin dresses.
Lanling Guards, pro-military schools, sects, menqianzong, yingqianzong, weiqianzong and Bujun military schools all wear six-product standard auxiliary clothes.
Seven or eight products of Wuzhi rhinoceros makeup service.
Geng, You Wei, Ba Zong, Qi Wei, Fen Wu Wei, and the military school entrusted by the Committee all wore seven rhinoceros patches.
Jiupin Wuzhi Haima Bufu
Captain Xiuwu, battalion commander of each battalion, general manager of outsourcing and extra general manager all wear Jiupin Haima to repair clothes.
Generally speaking, civil servants are birds and officers are beasts.
Officials in the Qing Dynasty wore fine clothes.
In the Qing dynasty, the crown system was changed to a high hat. There are two kinds of hats. One is a warm hat, which is round and has a brim. It is made of leather, woolen cloth, satin and cloth. It is black with a red hat weft and a crown bead on the top of the hat. Its materials are mostly precious stones, such as red, blue, white and gold. According to the etiquette of the Qing Dynasty, one product is ruby, the other is coral, the third is sapphire, the fourth is lapis lazuli, the fifth is crystal stone, the sixth is dragonfly, the seventh is plain gold, the eighth is embroidered gold, and the ninth is embroidered gold. People without crown jewels have no official products; Second, the cool hat, without eaves, trumpet-shaped, flat at first, small and high at the later stage, covered with rattan and bamboo mats, mostly white and lake yellow, decorated with red tassels and beads. In the eighth year of Yongzheng (A.D. 1730), the official crown system was changed, and the gemstones were replaced with glass of the same color. After the Qianlong period, the crests of these crowns were basically replaced by transparent or opaque glass, which were called Mingding and Nieding. For example, one product is called Bright Red Top, another product is called Nie Red Top, the third product is called Bright Blue Top, the fourth product is called Nie Blue Top, the fifth product is called Bright White Top, and the sixth product is called Nie White Top. As for the plain gold top of Qipin, it was also replaced by brass. There is a two-inch long feather tube under the tripod column, which is made of jade, jade or enamel and porcelain, and is used for inserting feather branches. There are blue feathers and flower feathers. Blue feathers are made of stork feathers. Blue, long and eyeless feathers are lower than flower feathers. Hualing is a peacock feather with dazzling eyes. "Dazzling eyes" is commonly known as "eyes". There are monocular, binocular and tricuspid eyes at the end of feathers, and the ones with more eyes are the most expensive. Official hats can be divided into two categories: Chao Guan and Ji;
As the name implies, the crown was worn during the dynasty. The crown is divided into three layers, with a sharp gem at the top, a spherical pearl in the middle and a metal base at the bottom. It is distinguished by the number of decorative pearls (Oriental Pearl). Prince Crown 10 East Pearl, Prince Crown 9 East Pearl, County Crown 8 East Pearl, Baylor Crown 7 East Pearl, Beizi Crown 6 East Pearl, Zhen Guogong Crown 5 East Pearl, Fu Guogong, Bu Fenggong and Gong Minguan all decorated 4 East Pearl. Marquis crowned with 3 East Beads, Earl crowned with 2 East Beads, and Yipin Guanguan crowned with 1 East Beads. You can't set winter beads below the first level, but set other small gems instead.
Gifu crown is the official hat worn when wearing Gifu, and it is also the hat worn by officials at ordinary times. The so-called Ji clothing is the clothing that is second only to the royal clothing. The top of the Giffordshire Crown is relatively simple, with only two parts: a spherical sphere and a metal base. The base is made of gold and copper and engraved with patterns. There are many colors and materials of the crown beads, which reflect the grades of different officials.
The thimble on the top of the hat is an important symbol to distinguish ranks;
Official robes/dresses
Yipin chaoguan dingdai
All the officials from the prince to the viscount and Yipin are rubies, which are beautiful and transparent gem-grade corundum. With its crystal-clear and beautiful colors, it was covered with mysterious and supernatural colors by the ancients and regarded as auspicious things. There are not many ruby producing areas in the world, mainly Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Australia and China. But in terms of gem quality, Myanmar and Sri Lanka are the best.
Er pin Ji Guan fu coral ding
Er pin ding Dai
Secondary official coral is one of the important organic gems. Coral is often white in color, but gem-grade corals are red, pink and orange, which can be used as official hats, second only to rubies. Coral is closely related to Buddhism. Buddhists in India, China and Tibet regard red coral as the incarnation of Tathagata. They regard coral as a mascot for offering sacrifices to the Buddha, which is often used to make beads or decorate statues. This is a very precious jewel.
Sanpin Jifu Crown Sapphire Top Wear
Sanpinji Guanfu
Sanpinchao house
Sanpinji Guanfu
From Sanpin Nie Dinglan
Triple sapphire hat
Third-grade official sapphire is a beautiful and transparent gem-grade corundum. In fact, the gem-grade corundum in nature is called sapphire except red, and other colors such as blue, light blue, green, yellow, gray and colorless are all called sapphire. Myanmar and Sri Lanka have the best quality.
Nie LAN si pin ding Dai
Si pin Ji Guan fu (warm hat)
Siguan lapis lazuli is one of the ancient jade articles. It has won the love of the people in the East with its bright blue color. Opaque, glassy to greasy luster. Its hardness is 5.5 and its specific gravity is 2.7-2.9. Lapis lazuli has unique blue, dark blue, light blue and light cyan. Lapis lazuli is a traditional jade material imported from China since ancient times, mostly from Afghanistan. So far, the origin of sapphire quartz clock has not been found in the coastal areas of China.
Wu Pinji Guanfu
Wu Pinji Guanfu Crystal Top Hat
Five-product crystal official hat top bead
Five-grade official crystal is one of more than 3000 minerals in nature. Its chemical composition is silica, and its crystal is transparent, often hexagonal. Since ancient times, it has been favored by human beings, and all countries in the world have been included in the ranks of gems. The hardness is 7, which is equivalent to the hardness of steel file, and dwarfs fragile gems such as topaz, diamond, opal and emerald. Many countries in the world have crystals, such as Brazil, Uruguay, the United States, South Africa, Zambia, Russia, China, Viet Nam and Pakistan. Among them, Brazilian crystal is the most famous.
Liu bianji Guan fu
Liu Biaoji Guanfu (warm hat)
The crown of six products (white nie glass instead of lapis lazuli)
Remarks: According to archaeological data, the ancient glass manufacturing technology in China began in the Western Zhou Dynasty and lasted for more than 2,000 years. It reached its peak in the Qing Dynasty and became the heyday in the history of ancient glass. There are more than 4000 ancient glassware in the Palace Museum. From the era of collection, there was almost no interruption from the Warring States to the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Most of the collections have been handed down from ancient times, especially in the Qing Dynasty, with the largest proportion of glass products, accounting for about 90% of the whole collection.
According to incomplete statistics, there were monochrome glass, enamel glass, mosaic glass, carved glass, gold-plated glass and other varieties in Kangxi dynasty, and gold-plated glass was added in Yongzheng dynasty.
Monochrome glass refers to glassware blown with monochromatic glass. Monochrome glass in Kangxi Dynasty is the inheritance and development of glass making technology before Qing Dynasty. In the past, the Palace Museum in Beijing only collected a piece of transparent glass water. Monochrome glass was the mainstream product at that time, and it produced the largest number and the richest variety during Yongzheng period. Monochrome glass can be divided into "Nie glass" and "Bright glass". "Nie glass" refers to opaque glass and "bright glass" refers to transparent glass.
Guaiding Liu Dai Pindingdai
Liu Pin top belt
The clam, also called Chequ, is a large marine bivalve, which is distributed in the Indian Ocean and the western Pacific Ocean. There are only 6 species reported in the world, all of which live in coral reef environment in tropical waters. This animal is also distributed in Taiwan Province Province, Hainan, Xisha Islands and other South China Sea islands. As the whitest substance in the world (the hardness of diamond is 10, and the whiteness of Polygonum hydropiper is 10), Polygonum hydropiper is a rare organic gem and a Buddhist relic. Manjianghong is the largest marine shell with a diameter of 2 meters. Cuckoo originated in the Han Dynasty, because its shell surface has a radial groove, which looks like an ancient rut, so it is called a chequ. Because it is as hard as stone, later generations added stone characters beside the car canal. Carapax Trionycis, Pearl, Coral and Amber are called the four organic gems in the west, and Buddhism in China is also listed as one of the seven treasures alongside gold and silver, colored glass, Carapax Trionycis, coral and pearl.
Qi pin Ji Guan fu
The whole product looks like a top hat with seven titles.
Su Jin Ding Tong
Seven, eight and nine products are all jinding, but the difference is that seven products are official jinding, and eight products and nine products are carved jinding.
Eight products and nine products, no picture.
It can be seen that:
The tops of the first and second products tend to be red, the third and fourth products tend to be blue, the fifth and sixth products tend to be white, and the seventh,
Eight or nine products tend to be gold.
Peacock feathers (decorations on the hats of royal officials in Qing Dynasty)
The top hat of Qing Dynasty has a feather tube under the top bead, which is made of white jade or jade and used to place feather branches. There are two kinds of green diamonds: blue diamonds and flower diamonds. Blue feathers are made of stork hair, and flower feathers are made of peacock hair. Hualing in Qing Dynasty is a symbol to distinguish prestige and rank, and ordinary officials can't wear it. Its function is to show ranks and reward military achievements. In the Qing dynasty, the imperial capital repeatedly ordered and applied, and it was not allowed to wear it indiscriminately or not to wear it at will. If they break the rules, they will strictly participate. Officials who are generally demoted or dismissed and remain in office can still wear royal clothes according to the current level, and they are fined for plucking flowers and feathers, which is an extremely serious punishment. Hualing is divided into one eye, two eyes and three eyes, and the three eyes are the most noble; The so-called "eye" refers to the eye-shaped circle on the peacock feather, a circle or even a glance. Blue Ling is a kind of crown ornament with the same nature as Hualing, also called "dyed blue Ling", which is made of a bird's feathers dyed blue and without eyes. For guards below level 6 who work in the Palace and Wang Fu, and also for junior officers with meritorious military service. Raptors are brave and heartless by nature, and will not rest until they die. It is appropriate for a warrior to wear a bird of prey feather on his crown, which can show his bravery. In the early Qing Dynasty, members of the royal family were lower in title than princes, county kings, sons of Baylor, and Gulen (that is, husbands of princesses born to the queen) and had the right to wear three-eyed feathers; In the imperial clan and vassal departments of the Qing Dynasty, the relatives and rich (that is, the husbands of princesses born of concubines) who were sealed as town owners or auxiliary country owners had the right to wear double-eyed Henaan; At least five commanders and leaders of the Ministry of Interior, Pioneer Camp and Guard Camp (the people who hold these positions must be Manchus with yellow flag, yellow flag and white flag) are qualified to wear one-eyed flower feathers, but foreign civil servants are not granted flower feathers. It can be seen that Hua Ling is a unique crown ornament of nobles in the halls of Qing Dynasty, and it should not be abused excessively even within clans and princes. Parents who are qualified to wear Hualing must pass the necessary riding and shooting test at the age of ten before they can wear it.
Coral/agate beads (worn by court officials in Qing Dynasty)
Zhu Chao is a string of beads worn on the royal clothes of the Qing Dynasty, shaped like a rosary hanging on the monk's chest. Detained officials, who have five civil servants and more than four military attaché s, can only be hung up if they, their wives or children, and their subordinate military officers, guards, Danielle, imperial academy, Dachang Temple, Guanglu Temple and Split Temple put on royal clothes. It is one of the symbols of status and status, and ordinary people are not allowed to wear it at any time.
Zhu Chao usually consists of six parts: the body, the Buddha's head, the shadow, the memorial, the big pendant and the falling horn, which originated from the Buddhist "rosary". The number of beads per bead is strictly specified as 108. It is said that Buddhism regards 108 as the symbol of Buddha. Every 27 beads in Zhu Chao are separated by a "Buddha's head", which makes it in sharp contrast with Zhu Chao in color. There are four "Buddha heads" with the same color and size, and the diameter is about twice that of Zhu Chao. Divide 108 Zhu Chao into four parts, also called "dividing the pearl", which is said to mean the four seasons. A tower-shaped "Buddha's head tower" is connected to the Buddha's head at the top of the bead, and its perforation mode is inverted "T", that is, both ends of the bead are inserted from the opposite end of the face, and then both of them are inserted from the hole in the middle and upper part to form one. The top of the Buddha stupa is tied with a large gem pendant with a wide ribbon, and a gem is hung on the top of the pendant, which is called "the back cloud". There are three strings of beads on each side of the gourd-shaped stupa, each string is 10, and the two ends of the beads are covered with small falling angles of precious stones inlaid with silver enamel, which is called "commemoration".
Material and color: The pearls of the Qing Dynasty are mostly carved from world treasures such as pearls, emeralds, agates, amber, corals, ivory, beeswax, crystals, agarwood, lapis lazuli, jade, turquoise, precious stones, tourmalines, peach kernels and hibiscus stones. , and decorated with bright yellow, gold and cyan tapestries, hanging around the neck. Zhu Chao's materials are rare and noble, and generally appear in the form of light elements. It is deliberately displayed to show its extraordinary temperament. The tapestries of Zhu Chao in Qing Dynasty were woven with silk thread, with distinct color grades: bright yellow tapestries can only be used by emperors, queens and queens; All-green and gold tapestry are used by the sovereign; Wu Siping, He Wen and other county officials are all Shi Qing.
The rules for women to wear court beads: when the Qing Dynasty empress wears court clothes, she must wear three plates of court beads, with the East Pearl in the middle and coral court beads on both sides; When wearing auspicious clothes, hang a plate and decorate the jewelry casually. When the imperial concubine, the imperial concubine, the princess and others wear royal robes, they wear a plate of beeswax or amber beads in the middle and two plates of red coral beads on their left and right shoulders; Even Mrs. Baylor, Mrs. Fu Guogong, Mr. Xiang Jun and others wear a plate of coral beads in the middle of royal clothing, and the other two plates are beeswax or amber beads; The three plates of beads hung by Mrs. Gong Min and Mrs. Wu Pinming Fu when wearing royal clothes are freely selected from lapis lazuli, turquoise, beeswax, amber and coral, and there is no strict customization.
The difference between women and men making beads: the beads hung by women are slightly different from those worn by men. The difference mainly depends on the "commemoration" on the beads. The two strings on the left are male and the two strings on the right are female. They cannot be reversed. In addition, there are some regulations: if the maid wears auspicious dresses to attend ancient ceremonies such as blessing valley and sericulture, she only needs to wear a plate of beads; In case of major court meetings, such as offering sacrifices to the late emperor and accepting conferring titles, you should wear three sets of court beads and court clothes. The concrete hanging method of three-plate beads is that the front plate is stuck between the necks, and the other two plates are from the shoulders to the ribs and chest. As for men, only one plate of beads is hung on any occasion.
Indicate official position: The size and quality of beads also indicate official position. When officials see the emperor, they must fall on their knees. As long as the beads touch the ground, they can touch the ground, not the forehead. The larger the diameter of the beads, the longer the beads will be, and the extent of bowing and kowtowing will be reduced, which can be said to be the different gifts of the emperor to different official positions.
Rules for hanging beads: According to Huidian in Qing Dynasty, from emperors and queens to civil servants with more than five grades and military officers with more than four grades, beads can be hung. Although beads are decorations, ordinary officials and ordinary people can't wear them at will. There are also strict rules for distinguishing and grading what kind of beads to wear. From the quality of the beads worn on the official's chest, we can see the rank of the official.
Two-needle crown