Mountaineering notes
The incomplete history of human climbing Mount Everest. The climbing activity of Mount Qomolangma began in the early 20th century. Since the 20th century, countries have climbed Mount Everest as follows: 1, 192 1 year, the British mountaineering team (captain Ke Hawad Barry) climbed Mount Everest for the first time from Tibet, China. They didn't cross the top of the northern depression and claimed that the height they reached was 6985 meters. However, due to their failure, they announced that this was a reconnaissance mountaineering activity. 2. 1922, the second British Everest climbing team (captain Ji Bruce) still took the route of the northern slope of China and Tibet. They crossed the northern depression, but when they reached the height of 8225 meters, they failed because seven people died. 3. 1924, the third British Everest climbing team (Captain F. Norton) was still climbing from the north slope of Mount Everest in China. Norton and others were forced to go down the mountain because of lack of oxygen when they reached 8572 meters below the "second step" on the north slope. Team members Mallory and Abin kept going and never came back.
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4. 1933, the British mountaineering team (Captain Herr Lutoleggi) composed of 16 people still used the route on the northern slope of Tibet in China, but it also failed. When team members Wen Harris and Wiggle reached an altitude of 8570 meters, the ice cone of Mallory, a member of the British Everest mountaineering team, was found at 1924, which was confirmed. 5. 1934, an Englishman, Mi Wilson, climbed the mountain alone with a light plane. As a result, the plane was damaged near Kampo Glacier, and he was slightly injured. Later, he hired some local Sherpas to help him climb the mountain, but after a storm, he froze to death on the glaciers in East Russia. 6. 1935, the British Everest expedition consisting of seven people (captain Shipton) only detected the elevation of 7000m on the northern slope of Mount Everest in Tibet, China, that is, near the northern depression, and returned. 7. 1936, the British Everest mountaineering team (captain Herr Luto Lequi) consisting of ten people reached the northern depression at an altitude of 7007 meters and returned [Note: the northern depression was 7007 meters before, and the exact height calculated by China mountaineering team 1975 was 7050 meters]. 8. 1938, the British Everest team composed of seven people (captain Ge Dielmann) still climbed from the northern slope of China, but failed after reaching an altitude of 8,290 meters. 9. 1947, climbing Mount Everest for the first time after World War II, Canadian Le Dian Man hired some local mountain residents as porters, and still walked on the northern slope of China, not exceeding 6,400 meters above sea level, and finally failed to return. The above-mentioned nine activities to climb Mount Everest all started from Tibet, China, and were unsuccessful. After 1950, Tibet is liberated, and Tibet, located in the southwest frontier, will no longer allow foreign mountaineering teams to carry out mountaineering activities at will. Since then, foreign mountaineering teams have changed to climb Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. 10, 1950, the mountaineering team composed of American Dick Houston and others tried to climb Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal for the first time, and only reached the vicinity of the ice explosion area on the Kampot Glacier at an altitude of 6 100 meters, and then returned. 1 1, 1950, a five-member British mountaineering team (captain Ge Dielmann) claimed in advance that it was a reconnaissance team that climbed Mount Qomolangma from the south slope and returned after reaching the vicinity of Kumbu Glacier at an altitude of 5,480 meters. At 12, 195 1, the British mountaineering team headed by Shipton consisted of seven people. They only climbed a section of Kampot glacier and returned at an altitude of 6450 meters. 13 years, 195 1 year, a Dane named Kebeka Larsen illegally and secretly crossed the border into Tibet. He planned to climb Mount Qomolangma from the north slope, but he failed without crossing 6500 meters above sea level. 14, 1952 In May, a ten-member Swiss mountaineering team led by captain Le dietmar climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. After reaching an altitude of 8540 meters above sea level, team member Le ranbir and their hired porter Tengxin from Nepal failed due to bad weather, but they created a route from the south slope of Mount Everest to the summit. 15, 1952, 10 In June, the Swiss mountaineering team climbed Mount Everest from the south slope for the first time in autumn, that is, after the rainy season in the Himalayas. In the spring of the same year, player Le ranbir was a member of the Swiss team. Team members En Gyllenfort and Nepalese teng letter, who were employed in the spring, reached an altitude of 8 100 meters, and failed again due to bad weather. 16 and 1953, two members of the British mountaineering team (composed of ten people) climbed to the top of Mount Everest. The summit members are Yi Hilary (New Zealander) and Fujishin Norguet (namely 1952 Nepalese who climbed 8000m with Swiss mountaineering team twice in spring and autumn). Team members Evans and Bulguelang reached an altitude of 8720 meters. The height of Mount Everest used by the British this time is 8840 meters. At 17 and 1956, the Swiss mountaineering team (captain Arbel eger) consisted of five members, including E Schmidt, You Malmet, A Leis and g E Qin Gong. With the support of a large number of Nepalese porters and guides, they climbed Mount Everest in two groups on May 23rd. The route they used was pioneered by Swiss athletes at 1952, which was first adopted and succeeded by the British team. That is, starting from the empty glacier on the south slope of Mount Everest, it reaches the mountain depression (commonly known as the south depression) between Mount Everest and its sister peak Luoze (850 1 m above sea level), and then climbs to the top along the southeast ridge. The elevation of Mount Everest used is 8848 meters. 18,1In the early morning of May 25th, 960, the China Everest Mountaineering Team (commander-in-chief Han Fudong, captain Shi Zhanchun) led by commandos Wang Fuzhou climbed the highest mountain in the world for the first time from the northern slope of China, and the three members of the summit were Wang Fuzhou, Kampot (Tibetan) and Qu. At that time, international imperialism clamored against China. After three years of natural and man-made disasters, Chinese and Soviet mountaineers unilaterally withdrew from the activities of climbing Mount Everest together. China mountaineers successfully climbed Mount Everest from the northern slope for the first time, which fully demonstrated that under the leadership of China and Chairman Mao (1893 ~ 1976), the people of China were unattainable. In this mountaineering campaign, a total of 29 members of the China mountaineering team climbed to the height of Mount Everest above 8 100 meters, and 13 members climbed to an altitude of 8,500 meters. This is also the first time in the history of world mountaineering. 19, 1960 In May, while the China mountaineering team launched an attack from the northern slope to Mount Everest, an Indian mountaineering team led by Indian major Ji Singh was also climbing from the southern slope of Nepal to Mount Everest. When they reached the height of 8625 meters on the south slope, they announced that they would give up the summit because of the strong wind. 20. 1962, India's second Everest mountaineering team, led by its captain, Lieutenant Colonel Jedias of the Indian Army, climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal again, but failed again for fear of strong winds. Two of its members climbed to an altitude of 87 17 meters. 2 1, 1963, the American Everest team (Captain En Dilinfes) succeeded in climbing from the south slope of Mount Everest in Nepal along the southwest ridge. The American team made two raids every 2 1 day. The first time, on May 1, two people reached the summit, and the second time, on May 22nd, four people reached the summit, a total of six people. This is the fourth mountaineering team to climb Mount Everest. 22, 1965, May 20th, 22nd, 24th and 29th, the Indian mountaineering team (led by Indian Navy Major Lee) successively climbed Mount Everest from the south slope of Nepal in four days, with a total of nine people reaching the summit four times. The team leader, vice captain and team members are all selected from Indian active servicemen, and the routes used are from Britain and the past. 23. 1969 In the spring, the Japanese mountaineering team made the first exploratory mountaineering from the south slope of Mount Everest. After reaching the Kampot Glacier area at an altitude of 6,450 meters, they left behind some glaciers and meteorological observers. They stayed on Mount Everest for a whole year and observed the meteorology and glaciers for a long time, which laid the necessary foundation for the Japanese team to officially climb Mount Everest on 1970. 24.1in the autumn of 969, the Japanese Everest mountaineering team (captain Hiroshi Fujita) tried to capture Mount Everest from the south slope on the basis of mountaineering reconnaissance that spring, but after reaching an altitude of 8,000 meters, it announced that it had "completed the autumn mountaineering reconnaissance mission" and returned. 25. 1970 In the spring, the Japanese Everest climbing team was led by Saburo Matsumoto, a 70-year-old captain (who is an old Japanese climber). Although he participated in this mountaineering, he spent all his time in the base camp, neither taking part in the adaptive March nor taking part in the summit activities. His participation shows that the Japanese mountaineering community attaches great importance to this activity), and he launched an attack on Mount Everest in two groups: one group went straight to the summit of Mount Everest from the south of Mount Everest along a steep rock wall (also known as rock wall) 800 meters long. This is a relatively difficult route chosen by the Japanese themselves, because they dare to "technically climb" above 8000 meters above sea level, that is, climb steep rock walls, which other mountaineering teams have not done in the past. The other group is still the traditional old route, that is, the route from the south slope along the southeast ridge through the south depression to the top of the mountain. The reason why the Japanese team split up and dared to challenge the front rock wall of the south slope of Mount Everest was inseparable from the world mountaineering trend at that time. Because climbing along the traditional route from the south slope and taking the road that others have taken is of little significance to the rapidly developing alpine mountaineering. The Japanese team's frontal summit route on the south hillside really rose by about150m (calculated by the vertical height of the slope) and failed. Finally, they had to rely on the traditional route of the second group. On May 1970, 1 1 and 12, the team was divided into two ladder groups, and four people successfully climbed the traditional route. These climbers are Takeo Matsuura, Naoko Uemura, Ping Linming and Nepali porter Chatali. 26. 197 1 In the spring of, the "International Everest Mountaineering Team" composed of climbers from eleven European countries, such as Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and India, led by the team leader and Swiss mountaineer En Keelunfoot, reached the summit along the southwest ridge route of the south slope of Mount Everest (basically 65,438+). 27. 1972 In the spring, a "European Everest Climbing Team" was composed of climbers from eight European countries (Britain, France, Italy, Austria, West Germany, Switzerland, etc.). ), led by Sedek Lihai Kaufer, climbed from the south slope along the traditional route and failed after reaching an altitude of 8200 meters. 28.1autumn of 972 (September-165438+1October), the British military mountaineering team (captain Bonington) climbed Mount Everest along the traditional route on the south slope. After setting up an assault camp at an altitude of 8230 meters, it was forced to fail due to bad weather. 29. 1973 In the spring (February-May), the Italian military mountaineering team led by Guido Monzino, president of the Italian Military Mountaineering School, set up a large-scale Everest mountaineering team including Italian army, navy and air force, police force, customs officials, medical and meteorological military researchers. It was held twice on May 5 and May 7 of that year, each time in a group. There are about 60 Italian soldiers in the team, which is the largest number of climbers in Nepal among foreign mountaineering teams so far. They hired more than 300 Nepalese porters and guides, and mobilized various means of transportation, including military helicopters and tractors on sloping fields. The Italian military mountaineering team's summit route was originally two plans. One is to climb the summit along the southwest ridge (1963 route used by the US team), and the other is the backup plan, that is, to climb the summit along the traditional route of the southeast ridge. As a result, the first scheme was blocked, and finally the backup scheme reached its peak.