18 and 19 century romanticism is based on the surging bourgeois revolution. Romanticism in this period liberated personality and soul. Romanticists not only oppose everything related to feudal regime, but also hope to get rid of the rigidity and simplistic rationality of academic classical art. Romanticists attach importance to color and emotion, as well as the atmosphere and beauty when they walk, which are strongly reflected in clothing.
First, romantic style and clothing characteristics
Romantic clothing brings a brand-new romantic, charming, sexy, soft and luxurious atmosphere, which can be said to be the return of the most primitive and pure romantic elements. Fashion design is different from classicism (classicism is manifested in opposing complexity, rigorous aesthetic thinking and advocating simple, pure and gorgeous beauty). What is displayed on the clothes is to highlight the beauty of the human body. The formal rule of clothing style is to pursue balance and symmetry in modeling. It has the basic laws of rationality, conciseness and clear structure. The fabric is simple and the color pattern is simple. ), it emphasizes breaking rigid dogma and pursuing fantasy and even dramatic effect. Common themes such as retro, nostalgia, nationality, foreign cities, etc. , the pursuit of exaggeration and uniqueness. The lines are soft or unrestrained, and the asymmetrical and unbalanced design structure has become the most obvious difference from classicism. Colors are also rich and varied, patterns are colorful, and fabrics pursue nature and texture. There are various means of decoration: raw edges, tassels, embroidery, lace, pleats, bows, flower decorations, etc. In other words, you can use it as long as you can think of fresh and gorgeous elements.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the West began to pay attention to the East, and integrated the aesthetic taste of the East into fashion. Eastern and western costumes began to collide with each other, making designers more flexible in mystery. Feathers, tulle ornaments, cloaks and lace are widely used. In the 1920s, Chanel introduced a top-down dress suit, which not only liberated women's bodies, but also brought a simple and elegant atmosphere. Of course, there are occasional rebellious styles during this period. In 1930s, women's lines were exaggerated, and most of their clothes were hung and folded, which was called Roman column. The fashion of low waistline was also very popular. Some characteristics of ethnic minorities in the 1960s and 1970s had a strong romantic element, and the gorgeous atmosphere created by cloth and scraps in the 1970s also had an impact on the later period.
The trend of clothing is generally manifested in creating a brand-new romantic fabric appearance with the support of high technology; Or study the romantic decoration in history, systematically analyze the elements and extract the essence to nourish today, so that simple clothing has a romantic and rich appearance. Contemporary clothing research presents a multi-faceted and multi-angle trend. Fashion design also reflects the outstanding visual creativity of human beings from many aspects such as functionality, artistry and aesthetics, as well as people's cultural concepts, aesthetic concepts and life concepts in different periods and regions, and shows the continuous sublimation of human visual artistic thinking and aesthetic activities.
Second, the influence of European romantic style on modern clothing
The artistry of clothing is a timely feedback to the aesthetic differences of the times, which not only reflects the relationship between man and nature and society, but also reflects the atmosphere of an era and people's mental outlook reflected by aesthetics and the changes of the times.
First of all, most industrialized countries in today's world have gone beyond their original traditional clothing formats and entered the global modern clothing model, that is, the unique clothing style of mass production, low cost, high efficiency, simplicity, practicality, comfort and convenience in industrialized society. At the same time, in the environment of economic globalization, the uniqueness of culture has become the key to market competition. For this reason, all kinds of clothing styles that have been brilliant in history, as the basic means to adjust and enrich contemporary clothing charts, are constantly being excavated, applied and copied by fashion designers. In the same modern clothing background. Returning to the rich decorative vocabulary of classicism and romanticism, combined with new materials, new technologies and new ideas, has injected new connotations into fashion, aroused people's yearning for decoration and triggered people's pursuit of rich visual effects and freedom.
Secondly, romanticism is the first decorative system with a wide range, relatively complete and rich style in history. It transcends the motif of thought, highlights the pleasant visual effect, and makes the image with thought as the core in the Renaissance become a very clear and pure aesthetic object with decorative form. It enriches the details of form and the content of visual appreciation. This paves the way for humanized decoration. It can be said that the romantic style has established a new format and new demand for visual aesthetics for human beings, and also laid a style foundation for modern western decorative arts.
Thirdly, because the romantic style covers a wide range, the design works all present a unique sense of form. The extensiveness of this decoration can be seen from various curved structures, rich light and shadow effects, free combination of materials, and a large number of decorations such as pleats, lace, embroidery and bows. Every detail of the romantic style is the result of hand-making. In today's material environment created by machines, romantic art shines with exquisite, simple and romantic human light. It makes up for the deficiency of contemporary vision. It is this that will attract more and more people's attention and love, and become a popular artistic flavoring agent in today's clothing. The decline of modern romantic style clothing does not simply copy 17 or 18 century western romantic clothing, but not only retains the artistic spirit of romanticism, but also draws lessons from the advanced ideas of modern fashion design, pursues the principle of modern fashion design that less is more, and adapts to the growing internal needs of people in modern fashion design and aesthetic expression.
Modern fashion draws lessons from romantic style, returns to elegant and gorgeous feeling, and applies all romantic formal beauty concepts and decorative techniques to fashion design, which is full of femininity. Natural color application, delicate technology, rich and changeable curves, asymmetric and sculptural clothing structure. All these elements explain modern fashion designers' yearning for European classical beauty, giving people a luxurious impression full of strong dynamic and visual impact. The neo-romanticism in 2 1 century inherited the traditional romanticism and had a new interpretation at the same time. Neo-romanticism retains the basic elements of traditional romanticism, such as the flow and rhythm of clothing, and appropriately adds post-modern rapid fantasy, as well as the decadence of hippies and the practicality of cities, coupled with the exaggeration and variation of art, which makes clothing present a simple, beautiful and unexpected appearance.
Three. Concluding remarks
Today, in the 2 1 century, the combination of form and spirit, and the display of personality and style have been less constrained and restricted. With the rapid circulation of time, fashion keeps turning like an hour hand. As a personal vision, return to nature and develop towards the ideological tendency of maintaining the original flavor of nature (new styles, new fabrics, and updated angles). Nostalgia is to introduce the old elements and forms of history, region and nationality into design, and also to reveal the future from the past and seek modernity from tradition. People can often see the shadow of tradition from the most fashionable objects, which is a psychological reflection of people's love of novelty and nostalgia in aesthetic consciousness, and it is also the easiest to arouse people's aesthetic perceptual interest. Berenham, a German historian, once pointed out that tradition is different from relics, and in the distinction between relics and traditions, tradition is still alive today. Some design scholars have also made clear their views on tradition: inherit and develop all excellent traditions. It is not dissolved in antiquities, but recreated while inheriting and preserving the traditional spirit. The form of nostalgia is a new creative presentation through careful conception, clever reference, refining, simplifying, transforming and innovating with modern materials and processing technology. As one of the art forms, romantic recreation will surely present dazzling and beautiful luster with the development of the times.
References:
[1] The edge is sunny. Clothing art judgment [M]. Shanghai: Donghua University Press. 2006
[2] Ye Licheng. History of Chinese and Western Clothing [M]. Beijing: China Textile Publishing House.2002.