My ears are full of love.
Her lips are like smiling roses.
When we said goodbye at the door.
I clearly remember the last kiss.
I left my heart in Heidelberg.
My heart is pounding along neckar.
-Goethe "I left my heart in Heidelberg"
Dark green mountains, quiet rivers, lush jungles, blue skies and ancient streets, this is Heidelberg, an elegant ancient town with Ruprecht-Karl-Universit, the oldest university in Germany. Heidelberg University. Young Hegel made his debut here, and Holderlin sang in this mountain. Heidegger was the president of this university, and the former residences of Bach, Lao Strauss, Shi Bingle, karl jaspers and Gadamer are adjacent, and history and nature are integrated.
/kloc-in 0/5, I came to this small town in southwest Germany with some friends from Beijing, Xi and Zhejiang. Drive 80 kilometers south from Frankfurt. I know the name of Heidelberg is a well-known Heidelberg printing press in the industry. Heidelberg town is famous for its ancient Heidelberg University and the vicissitudes of life built in14th century. Gothic Heiliggeistkirche Church stands in the town square Marktplatz- in the old town of Altstadt, where cafes abound, while the red sandstone site of Heidelberg Castle is a famous example of Renaissance architecture, located on Mount Tours in Knies.
■ Neika
Wandering along the Neckar River, on the other side are rows of romantic fairy tale huts, which are picturesque. Heidelberg is also very famous in small cities in Germany, because it has all the romantic elements, green mountains and green waters, castle ruins and university poets. Heidelberg is very small, and all the scenic spots are on both sides of Neckar. One day is enough for us to follow the footsteps of European romantic poets and travel all over the town.
Walking leisurely along the river, the war and artillery have been silent for a long time, but neckar is still flowing slowly for ten years. Go straight along the river bank and look up at the castle shining in the sun, as if it is still telling the ancient and eternal history. The silhouette of the castle is unusually calm in the water, and then blends with the reflection of colorful houses and lovers on the river bank. The picture instantly became tender and tender, which made us lose our heartstrings.
■ Castle
Heidelberg Castle is a reddish-brown ancient castle, located at the top of the king's throne. Although the castle was built in 13 century, it took 400 years to complete, so the architectural style is constantly changing, from Gothic, Baroque to Renaissance. Heidelberg was destroyed twice by the French in the17th century, and the main building was restored in the19th century, and the unrepaired part was still in ruins. Many historical sites have been preserved. The main entrance of the castle is carved with soldiers in armor. The central garden has fountains and four granite pillars, and is surrounded by concert halls, glass halls and other buildings. Most rooms in the castle are now open to tourists. Standing on the city wall, you can see endless vineyards, which are beautiful. There is a "vat" and a large wine cellar that can store 220,000 liters of wine, which is the most attractive reason for Heidelberg.
Speaking of old castles, there is also a romantic love story. According to legend, Goethe visited Heidelberg eight times. At the age of sixty-six, Goethe met the Jewish beauty Marianne here and fell in love at first sight. In the evening, they always walk hand in hand in the garden of the castle. He read the fragments from the book to her and wrote her name on the beach in Arabic. They had a romantic and wonderful two weeks, so that Goethe said with emotion when he left Heidelberg: "I left my heart in Heidelberg."
There is a Goethe monument in the castle garden, with a stone chair quietly beside it. Under the stone chair, Marianne's words are engraved: "Where the high walls bloom, I find him my favorite." Perhaps it is the best ending of this love story that two people meet in this way. Like Goethe's poem carved on the broken wall of the castle:
"I have loved and loved here."
■ Old bridge
This old bridge is actually called Karl-Theodore Bridge, which is named after the builder of 1788, and there is a statue of this elector on the bridge. This baroque stone bridge is the oldest bridge on the Neckar River in Heidelberg today. I like a small town like Heidelberg, and I can go anywhere. It takes about 10 minutes to get to the ancient bridge along the river. At the southern end of the bridge is the bridge gate. These two 28-meter-high round towers are the oldest parts of the old bridge, and the earliest bridge gates left over from the15th century were used to collect bridge tolls.
There is a bronze monkey sculpture by the bridge door. The bronze monkey in this position appeared in15th century. At that time, it was a symbol of "ugliness, shame, desire and vanity", which was used to satirize "toll" and also expressed the meaning of equality between people inside and outside the bridge gate. Today's bronze monkey is the work of 1979, which brings more fun to tourists passing through the ancient bridge and the bridge gate. Touching the bronze mirror on the monkey's left hand will bring good luck; Holding the finger of the monkey's right hand is a blessing to return to Heidelberg one day; And a pair of copper rats on the side is the signature of the sculptor, which also represents many children and many blessings.
■ Old Town
Take a few steps to the south, cross the quiet and narrow Upper Hutong, and enter Haupstresse, which is full of laughing tourists. I don't know whose good idea it was, but this street was turned into a pedestrian street in 1978. Haopu Street is more than one kilometer long and is the longest pedestrian street in Germany. Laojie is a long commercial street parallel to the river. Although the old city is also very modern, the streets, alleys and buildings have retained their quaint style. There are many tourists, and there are all kinds of specialty shops, restaurants and coffee shops. The exquisite Baroque houses and cobblestone roads on both sides are very charming. Here, you can walk slowly and enjoy the endless windows on both sides without fear of being hit by cars in the city. When you are tired, go to an open-air cafe. If you like a glass of Rhine wine or the most famous beer in Germany, there are small wineries everywhere. Want to be more emotional? There is a candlelight bar in broad daylight. I have never seen so many tasteful cafes, hotels, flower shops, bookstores and restaurants in a street. They are small and chic, but they are reluctant to leave when they sit down. Talking about luxury is by no means the style of domestic cities, but when it comes to the atmosphere, the old street is comfortable enough and has no dull business atmosphere.
■ University
There is the oldest Heidelberg University in Germany in the old street, which was built in 1368. During the Roman Empire, it was the center where theologians and legal experts gathered. This university has trained 55 Nobel Prize winners, 5 German presidents and many European government officials. Philosopher Hegel, sociologist Max Weber and others have taught here, and many masters such as musician Schumann and "father of psychology" Feng Te are also alumni of Heidelberg University.
During World War II, Heidelberg was lucky to escape the bombing of allied planes. It is said that some of them are students of Heidelberg University. After the war, Heidelberg also became the headquarters of the US military in Europe.
The most interesting thing is that in such a university with a long history, the most popular place for tourists is the student prison. It seems inappropriate to say prison. More like a student detention room. Hundreds of years ago, students in Heidelberg enjoyed extraterritoriality. As long as they did not commit heinous crimes, the law would turn a blind eye to them. The insolence and rudeness of some students aroused the dissatisfaction of local citizens, so student prisons came into being, and universities decided their confinement time according to the severity of crimes committed by students.
But it's not a real prison after all. Students have classes during the day and only need to go into the brig at night, so this is their new playground. Later, the students even thought that their careers would be incomplete if they were not locked up in the student prison, so they deliberately committed some small things, and then their friends beat gongs and drums to celebrate their being sent to prison.
The graffiti left here is dense, mocking the police and mocking life. There are all kinds of contents. As time goes by, students leave, but their graffiti still exists. Through their brushes, it seems that you can still see those young people who are flying in the sun and are a little sly.
Who says Germans are rigid and rigorous?
■ The philosopher's road
At night, walk along the ancient bridge to the holy mountain on the other side, stroll along the scenic two-kilometer philosopher's road and a mountain path, cross the ancient bridge to the north bank of the Neckar River, and you will arrive soon. The path is winding, with lush trees on both sides and a terrace overlooking Heidelberg across the river. At first, it was just a path left by growing grapes, but because of its beautiful environment and being far away from the noise, it attracted many people to come for a walk, and it has become one of the most beautiful walking places in Europe.
Perhaps it is the quiet after the excitement recedes that can arouse people's deepest purity and thinking. Many famous philosophers, poets and writers in history have gone through this road, and Hegel, Schumann, Goethe and Schelling are all frequent visitors on this road. There are also various monuments erected on the path, and there is a big hand beside the garden that says: Did you philosophy today?
? Heidelberg, a city once admired by German great poets Goethe, Holderlin and other cultural celebrities, has changed the serious and orderly impression left by Germany and is full of dreams and romance. It can be said that its beauty is not for you to go sightseeing, but for you to experience it with your heart.
After swimming for a long time, we couldn't help thinking. We also suffered from war. Their intentions for cultural relics and scenery are good, but we are constantly tearing down the old city. There are few relics of civilization left. How can it last forever?