1902, the British mountaineering team climbed Gregory Peak for the first time and ended in failure. In the next 50 years, human beings tried many times and failed. It was not until July 3rd1954 and June 3rd1that Rino Restry and Achille Copagononi of the Italian mountaineering team climbed the summit along the east ridge from Pakistan for the first time, which took nearly 100 days.

1976 and 1977, chinese mountaineering association teamed up twice to enter the north side of Chogory Peak for route reconnaissance. 1On August 4th, 982, the Koguryo mountaineering team of Japan Mountain Association climbed to the top from the northern slope along the northern ridge for the first time. Later, there were Italian, Japanese Yokohama Mountain Association mountaineering teams and American mountaineering teams. First, China successfully conquered Gogol Peak.

1902, the British team led by Oscar Eigenstein and aleister crowley made their first attempt to climb Mount Chogory. After five attempts, none of the players succeeded in reaching the top, probably because of insufficient physical training.

1954, Adito Deseo led an Italian mountaineering team to the summit. Two members of the team, Reno Restry and Achille Copagooni, successfully reached the summit on July 3 1.

1979, Mesner led a team of six people to try to climb from the South-South West Ridge (which he called the Devil's Route), but he soon realized that the route was quite dangerous for alpine cooperation, and several members vomited, so Mesner decided to change the traditional route and climb the summit with Mike Day Cole.

At 198 1, Otani Fangying and Sebo reached the peak.

1982, a mountaineering team of Japanese Mountain Association successfully climbed to the top from the north slope of China-Chogory Peak for the first time.

1986, a total of 14 people reached the summit. Wanda Lukowitz became the first woman to reach the summit, and Lillian Barrett was the second. Lillian and her husband rushed to the summit together. But he died in the evacuation. Including Bennett Chemosh, it took only 23 hours to reach the summit, and Jonah Likovsky reached the summit for the second time. So far, Jonef Likowski is the record holder of climbing K2 twice.

1993, a total of 16 people reached the summit. Britten Jones Parrett and American Mu Dan Jones completed a feat along the Xiling route: it took only 32 hours to reach the peak directly from the assault camp and return.

1995 and 1995 have more mountain disasters. There were some successful climbs in July. On the evening of August 13, another 6 climbers reached the summit, which was confirmed by wireless telephone. When they retreated, a gust of wind hit the top of the mountain. Blow five climbers into hell. In the same year, a German commercial expedition failed to climb the North Ridge.

1In September, 1995, a 7-member mountaineering team came to the mountaineering camp under the main peak of Karakorum Mountain, with Peter Hillary as the captain. He is the son of Hillary Clinton, the first person to climb Mount Everest. The father and son set a record of climbing Mount Everest together and have rich climbing experience. Secondly, Alice, a soul figure, successfully climbed Mount Everest without oxygen. On September 12, the mountaineering team has climbed to less than 400 meters from the summit, and K2 is within reach. However, at this moment, dark clouds began to gather. Peter knows that this is a harbinger of bad weather. He decisively ordered: "retreat down the mountain immediately!" "However, no one responded, especially Alice. If successful, she will become the fifth woman in the world to board K2. Faced with such temptation, she resolutely rushed forward with five other people. Looking at the back of the six of them climbing up, Peter had to go down the mountain alone. Alice stood at the top of the giant peak. However, during the descent, a violent hurricane killed six people.

Statistics in September 2003: the number of people who reached the summit 198, and 53 people died, with an overall mortality rate of 26.77% (mortality rate = the number of people who reached the summit), 4 1% before 1990 and19.7 after 1990.

In 2004, as the second highest mountain in China, no China people successfully reached the top of Mount Chogory in the whole 20th century. Until July 27th, 2004, the Tibetan mountaineering expedition successfully reached the summit at 6: 50 local time (9: 50 Beijing time). This success also set a new record for three people in China to reach the summit at the same time 13 at an altitude of more than 8000. Established in 1993, the "China Tibet Expedition to Climb the World Peak Above 8000m 14" has also become the first mountaineering team in the world to collectively climb 13. [ 1]

On August 2, 2008, 17 climbers encountered an avalanche when returning from the top of Pakistan, of which 1 1 was killed, making it the most deadly disaster in the history of climbing Qogory Mountain.

20 12 On July 30th, Yang Chunfeng and his teammates Zhang Jingchuan and Rao Jianfeng successfully climbed to the top along the south slope. This is the first China folk mountaineering team to reach the summit successfully.

On July 26th, 20/KOOC-0/4, at 2: 00 pm/KOOC-0/5, Cyndi Luo successfully reached the top of Mount Chogory, becoming the first woman in China. 188 1 Someone climbed to the top. 1902, British climbing failed. After 5 1 year, he climbed many times and failed. On July 3 1954 and 3 1 day, two members of the Italian mountaineering team, Lille La Coteli and Man cambio, climbed the summit from Pakistan along the southeast ridge, which took nearly 100 days. 1On August 4th, 982, Koguryo mountaineering team of Japanese Mountain Association climbed to the top from the northern slope of China along the northern ridge. Followed by Italy, Japan Yokohama Mountain Club mountaineering team, American mountaineering team and so on. From China side to the top. Monkov Kidd, a world-famous anaerobic mountaineer, is an Indian-American. Without an oxygen bottle, he climbed the death line of 6,500 meters for many times and finally climbed the second highest mountain in the world-Chogory Peak. This feat was recorded in the Guinness Book of Records 1993. It is the wish of many European and American mountaineering enthusiasts to climb Mount Chogory without oxygen tanks. But since 188 1 someone climbed the mountain with an oxygen bag, 100 years have passed, and no one has thrown it away.

Because once it exceeds 6500 meters, the air is thin and normal people can't survive. Climbers must stop at this altitude and take a deep breath 10 minutes or more. Monkov Kidd discovered the mystery of anaerobic mountaineering. At the press conference to issue the Guinness certificate, he described it like this:

Experts believe that the biggest obstacle to anaerobic mountaineering is desire, because at the top of the mountain, any small distractions will make you feel that you need more oxygen. As an anaerobic mountaineer, if you want to reach the top, you must learn to get rid of distractions. The less distractions you have in your mind, the less oxygen you need. The more you want, the more oxygen you need. In the case of extremely thin air, in order to climb the peak and get more oxygen for the limbs, we must learn to eliminate all desires and distractions. "

Once you have a certain desire or idea, you will need money or oxygen, or do something else or have the opposite result. The greater or stronger the desire or idea, the more it is needed, otherwise it will eventually fail or make it fail. According to Monkov's theory, with such desires and ideas, you can't reach the top in life and career. A difficult and long hiking route into the mountains.

After arriving in Skadu, a major town in northern Pakistan, the mountaineering team will transfer to a local off-road vehicle and arrive at Lixiaoshan Village in Oscar. After that, they will start a 7-day March on foot. The marching routes are mostly winding paths in the mountains, sometimes dangerous areas such as rolling stones and mudslides. The team waded through mountains and rivers in the scorching sun, which was extremely difficult. After three days' hiking, we entered the glacier with a length of 100 km. The road is more rugged, and the altitude is gradually rising, making it more and more difficult to walk.

Second, the mountains are steep and the terrain is complex.

Although the altitude is the second highest, the mountain is not big, so the climbing route is extremely steep and the terrain is complex. Glaciers from the base camp to the forward camp are full of light and dark cracks. There is a very steep snow slope between Qianjin Camp and Camp 1 and Camp 2. 1 Camp and Camp 2 have almost no flat land, so it will take a long time to dig in the ice and snow to find the "flat land" to build tents.

There is a section of road between Camp 2 and Camp 3 called "Chimney", which is a narrow gap in the middle of a rock wall about 50 meters high. There are rocks on three sides, and only one person can go up and down in the middle. There is an ice wall and a big air outlet above camp 2, and the wind is strong at high altitude, which is easy to be frostbitten.

Between Camp 3 and Camp 4, there is a sharp ridge on the southeast ridge and a mixed zone of ice, snow and rocks. The snow slope is deep and there are big cracks, so it is necessary to pull the rope and need a lot of road signs. If the weather is bad, once the players get lost here, they will easily fall off the cliff.

Camp 4 is also built on the edge of the ridge, and the wind is strong at high altitude, which is easy to blow people or tents away. Further up, there is a very steep road, which climbers call "bottleneck", which is the most difficult road on the whole summit, with a slope of about 80 degrees. Huge and thick ice walls are piled up above the marching route, which is in danger of ice collapse and avalanche at any time. Many excellent climbers who climbed to the top along the traditional route of the southeast ridge were killed here. Some are lost and slippery, and some are exhausted and freeze to death. According to statistics, the death rate of climbers who climb Mount Chogory is as high as 1:7, while the death rate of climbers who climb Mount Everest is 1:29.

Due to the special topographical conditions of Chogory Peak, the technical equipment needed to reach the summit is also the most and best. Pulling a rope from the front camp requires at least 5500 meters of rope to reach the peak, and it must be the best main rope. In addition, a large number of climbers are needed to reach the summit. Only people with comprehensive skills, rich experience and strong strength can successfully reach the top and return safely.

Three difficulties, the climate is complex and changeable.

The weather is the biggest difficulty in climbing Qiao Feng. Qiao Feng is located in the Kara Mountains of Kunlun Mountain, with a changeable climate. Various kinds of weather alternate every three hours, and it is either windy or snowy for three days. Even with high-tech means, it is difficult to accurately predict the meteorological changes in mountainous areas. Unlike other mountains, it is very regular. According to records, sunny weather lasting more than a week in the history of Mount Nikolai Gogol is rare.

Four difficulties, logistical difficulties

Limited by the climatic conditions in mountainous areas, most mountaineering teams usually stay for two months once they enter the base camp of Chogory Peak. Long-term standby and cold weather often make the supply of food and fuel tight, and many teams have to replenish halfway, and the supply line is very long. When it snows again, it is difficult for migrant workers to get up on foot. In addition, all mountaineering camps are built on steep slopes, and it often snows and winds. The tents built are often crushed by snow or blown away by the wind, which brings great difficulties to mountaineering activities. The biggest cause of death in mountain climbing is altitude sickness, so we should pay special attention to it. We can carry highly effective anti-allergic drugs. From May to September, due to the rising temperature, melting snow, precipitation and other reasons, the water level in the valley often rises sharply, making it difficult to enter the mountains. Therefore, the best time for mountaineering activities should be arranged from May to early June. Although the river rose at that time, it was not too serious. From July to September, the temperature at the top of the mountain is slightly higher and the good weather lasts for a long time, which is a good time to climb to the top.