Wang henian
Strange Tales from a Lonely Studio is a well-known supernatural novel, which expresses the author's feelings of loneliness and anger. Among them, "Flower Girl" tells a love story between An Youyu, a doctor born in Bagong Office, and Fairy Flower Girl: At the critical moment when An Youyu fell ill due to lovesickness, her lover Flower Girl came to treat him, "and embroidered some steamed cakes on the bed, and then quietly left. It's midnight. I've been thinking about food, and I've vomited all the cakes. I don't know what packaging it is, but it is very sweet, so I used up three pieces. " The "steamed cake" mentioned in this paper is a conventional name for steamed buns in ancient times, but here it clearly refers to a kind of stuffing pasta, which is called steamed buns today. Today, in some areas in the south of the Yangtze River, people still call steamed buns steamed buns.
When was the steamed stuffed bun "born"?
Steamed bread is a kind of food filled with fermented bread and steamed in a steamer. Generally, meat, vegetables, sesame seeds and bean paste are used as fillings, and the steamed products are mostly hemispherical, so it is called "China Hamburg". In ancient times, steamed bread and steamed buns were often called "steamed buns". Now most areas distinguish between steamed buns and steamed buns. Those without stuffing are called steamed buns, and those with stuffing are called steamed buns.
This is Zhang Zilie's explanation of the word "human" in Zhengzitong in Aming Dynasty: "What begins with human is called" camel's navel ". Wu (taking steroids). ..... the fat of cooked food is also said. " The meaning is clear. There were two kinds of steamed bread at that time: one was the "solid steamed bread" mentioned in The Scholars, which is today's steamed bread; One is what the author calls "the first kind", which is filled with stuffing and shaped like a paper flower. Because the steamed product looks soft and fat, the whole shape looks absolutely like camel's navel, so it is called "camel's navel", which is what people call steamed bread today.
Some people say that the name of "steamed stuffed bun" began in the Song Dynasty. According to the historical records in the appendix of Wei Juyuan's cookbook in the Tang Dynasty, there was a custom of "green purse" during the solar eclipse. Zhang Shoumei, a restaurant in Chang 'an, monopolizes this seasonal food every day. It can be seen that the name "steamed stuffed bun" has existed since the Tang Dynasty at the latest, and steamed stuffed bun has become a popular seasonal food.
When did the making of steamed stuffed buns begin? At present, no specific historical materials have been found, but according to some unofficial history, its appearance seems to be related to Zhuge Liang in the Three Kingdoms period.
Song Gaocheng quoted a story of an elder in unofficial history in the article "The History of the Later Han Dynasty, the Era of Steamed Bread": When Zhuge Liang levied Meng Huo, he heard that there were many witchcraft, and if he wanted to be blessed by God, he had to sacrifice first. Zhuge Liang can't bear it. "Because mutton is miscellaneous, it is covered with noodles, such as a shrine on the head." Later, people called the pasta made by this method steamed bread. The article "The Green and White Buns of Steamed Bread" in the seventh edition of Ming Lang Ying has this interpretation: "It was a sacrifice with a thick head, and Zhuge Zhi conquered Meng Huo. His life was a sacrifice with bread as the head, which was called' savage head', but now it is called' steamed bread'." However, Gao Cheng is just a legend. Langying is just the further development of Gao Shuo.
Nevertheless, at the latest in the Jin Dynasty, steamed stuffed buns had come out, but there is no doubt. Pasta appeared in the Warring States period, and people in the Han Dynasty began to try to make "flour cakes" (today's steamed bread) with fermentation technology, and the stuffed pasta "wonton" also appeared. The emergence of fermentation technology and stuffing pasta has provided necessary conditions and reference for the market of steamed bread. In the "Cake Fu" written by Jin people, there is a saying that "steamed bread should be set at every feast" (quoted from "Quan Jinwen"). This kind of skin is thin and stuffed, crisp and soft, which is a natural choice for people to entertain guests in early spring.
Tangtangde steamed bun famous products
By the Tang Dynasty, the production technology of steamed stuffed bun was quite mature. Wei Juyuan, a native of the Tang Dynasty, listed a set of cakes named "Su Steamed Voice Department" in the "Baked Tail Banquet Food List" and noted: "Steamed noodles are like Penglai Fairy, and there are seventy things." Mr. Wang Zihui is at "
According to a study of China's food culture, this group of food is steamed with flour wrapped in stuffing, which is similar to today's steamed buns: "The strangeness of stuffing, the fineness of flour and the beauty of taste requirements are amazing only in terms of shape. It needs a dance scene composed of 70 people, including musicians who play pipa, drums, harp and flute, and singers who dance in Luo Qi. Everyone has their own costumes, gestures, movements and expressions. It is specifically mentioned in the data that 70 people should be as beautiful as Penglai Fairy. Imagine this group of pastry foods, who can say that it is not a high-level work of art! "
Steamed buns are naturally more popular with people because of their meat stuffing, and even emperors who stretch their hands with clothes and open their mouths with jade have a special liking for them. Gu Tao's article "Jade Pointed Noodles" in Qing Louis once described Tang Dezong's anecdote in that year: "When Zhao Zongru was in the Hanlin, he heard him say,' Today, the jade pointed noodles are precocious, and the bear's paw is stuffed with deer, which makes him very fond of it." Ask its shape, there are pointed steamed buns in the world. "The so-called pointed steamed buns are steamed buns with fingertips slightly revealing stuffing. As for the idea of eliminating bears and piling deer, people sometimes interpret it as: "The extremely fat bears say' elimination', and the deer breeders who expect twice as much say' piling'. "It can be seen that this is a kind of steamed stuffed bun made of bear and venison, and its preciousness can be imagined.
Steamed buns were also called "cage cakes" in the Tang Dynasty. "Tai Ping Guang Ji" quoted Tang Hanwan's "Yu Shi Taiji" as saying that Tang Wuze was a servant of Hou Sizhi. "I tasted life and said,' Making a cage cake with me can shrink my onions. "More onions and less meat than market cage cakes. So it is also necessary to shrink onions and add meat. The time number is the suggested history of shrinking onions. " I love meat, so I don't hesitate to condescend to let the chef add more meat when cooking steamed buns.
The poem "Nest" by Lu You, a poet in the Song Dynasty, said: "Fog and rain are dark, and wine and food are suitable for children. I feel that I am in Shu, and a plate of cage cakes is a pea nest, "he said in his notes. "The steamed bread with miscellaneous meat as its nest in Shu is more delicious, and the Tang people only call it cage cake." Nest in the stuffing. It can be seen that Sichuan's pork steamed bread was very famous at that time.
In the Tang Dynasty, people called steamed bread "cocoon". At the end of the Five Dynasties, Wang Renyu wrote in "The Legacy of Kaiyuan Tianbao": "On the fifteenth day of the first month, it is a joke to make cocoons in the city, compete for official positions, or gamble on banquets." Probably because there is stuffing in the steamed stuffed bun dough, so take the cocoon with pupae as an analogy. The diet steamed bread for cleaning the spring is quoted from Song Luyuan's Chronological Miscellanies: "Cocoons are stuffed with meat or vegetarian food, and thick-skinned steamed bread is also."
Calling steamed buns "steamed buns" was first seen in the poem "Ode to Anren Slaying Garlic" when Jiang entered Shu in the late Tang Dynasty: "Anren County ordered good punishment and the people were full of oil. Half-broken magnetic cylinder becomes vinegar wine, and dead ox intestines become steamed bread. " The "steamed bread" filled with a dead belly in the poem is obviously a steamed stuffed bun.
Song people's admiration for steamed bread
People began to pay more attention to steamed stuffed bun, which was related to Song Shenzong's worship. In the Song Dynasty, Hu Zai's Tiaoxi Fishing in Conghua quoted Lu Shang as saying: "Two scholars learn from the public kitchen, such as setting a farewell dinner on the trial day of Class 38, cooking cakes in the spring and autumn, and cooking steamed buns in Xia Dong, which is especially famous. Scholars often give them to their relatives. " It is said that in the early Yuan Dynasty, people paid special attention to schools and often worried that "the diet was too thin to support scholars". One day, Zong Shen ordered the Imperial College to take away what the students ate in order to make progress. It happened that students ate steamed bread on this day. After Zongshen tasted it, he thought it was delicious and said happily, "I am not ashamed to raise a scholar with this!" " Therefore, "the natural diet is a little richer and cleaner, and steamed bread is famous." Obviously, the "steamed bread" here still refers to steamed bread.
Later, Yue Fei's grandson York once described this kind of business steamed bread in the poem "Steamed Bread": "Business for several years, I was full of Confucianism and still passed on bamboo shoots and ferns. Peng Shenghong, the son, has a piece of meat, and the general has a white lotus skin iron bar. Fang Xin can be used as a source of pepper, but it is rougher than a pot. You are lucky to be old and drooling. " As you can see, this kind of steamed bread is made by mixing shredded pork with pepper noodles, salt and other ingredients to make stuffing, and then using dough as skin. The finished product is white and smooth, soft and delicious, and the poet has a sigh of "drooling and comforting greedy slaves".
In Kyoto in the Northern Song Dynasty, steamed stuffed bun was a common snack on the street. Song Mengyuan's "Dream of Tokyo" said that in the capital of song dynasty, "there are even steamed buns hotels, which specialize in grouting steamed buns, thin-skinned spring cocoons, meat steamed buns, fish-wrapped mixed powder and big bones." Among them, "Plum Blossom Steamed Bread in Wanglou Mountain Cave" is particularly famous.
In the Southern Song Dynasty, steamed buns in Lin 'an, Kyoto were all kinds of colors, but in people's habits, they were called "Xiaolongbao" and "Xiaolongbao". For example, under the article "Vegetarian food from restaurants" in Dream of Liang Lu, there are buns, crystal buns, bamboo shoots, shrimp and fish buns, crab buns, goose and duck buns, turtle buns, Qibao buns and so on. There are four-color steamed buns, raw stuffed steamed buns, mixed-color fried flower steamed bread steamed buns, sugar steamed buns, mutton steamed buns, Taixue steamed buns, bamboo shoots steamed buns, fish steamed buns, crab steamed buns, fake meat steamed buns, shredded bamboo shoots steamed buns, steamed buns, spinach fruit steamed buns, and sugar rice steamed buns. According to this statement, it seems that steamed bread and steamed buns are not the same thing. Otherwise, since the stuffing is the same, why are they called "bamboo shoots with meat" and "bamboo shoots with meat"? In my humble opinion, it may be different in form. Steamed buns may be thick and round, with no traces of stuffing, similar to baggage, so they are commensurate with "steamed bread" and "steamed buns". Steamed bread, however, is thin, eclectic in shape, round, long and square, and shaped like a flower at the mouth of the paper. This is still a legacy of "taking the elephant as the head" in ancient times, because it is called "steamed bread". From the name, most pigs, sheep, beef, chickens, ducks, fish, geese and various vegetables can be used to make steamed buns.
However, there are exceptions. For example, Song Zhenzong used to use jewels as fillings. According to the Song Dynasty poet Wang Ya's Record of Swallow Wings, Emperor Zhenzong was very happy when Song Renzong was born. There are steamed buns in the palace for the courtiers to eat, all of which are golden beads. Of course, this kind of "steamed stuffed bun" is inedible and can only be used as an anecdote in the history of steamed stuffed bun.
In order to eat steamed stuffed buns frequently, Cai Jing, a powerful official in the Northern Song Dynasty, even had a steamed stuffed bun kitchen at home. In the Song Dynasty, Luo Dajing's "He Lin Yu Lu" recorded such an anecdote: "A gentleman bought a concubine in the capital and claimed to be a person in the kitchen of Cai Taifu's steamed stuffed bun. One day, being a steamed stuffed bun said no, and you said,' If you are from the steamed stuffed bun kitchen, why can't you be a steamed stuffed bun?' Yes:' I am a wisp of onion in the steamed stuffed bun kitchen. "
According to Song Zengminxing's "Awakening Alone Magazine", it was the same Cai Jing who spent more than 1,000 yuan to entertain the courtiers who were deliberating: "Cai Yuanchang is the prime minister, with hundreds of officials, and his salary is generous and his expenses are not small. One day, I got together for a family meeting. Because I stayed for a drink, I ordered crab yellow steamed bread. After drinking, the official calculated the cost slightly, and the steamed bread was 1300 yuan. " In order to eat a crab-yellow steamed stuffed bun, it cost more than 1300 copper coins (generally each 1000).
Yuan ren's steamed stuffed bun complex
In the Yuan Dynasty, steamed bread was often called "steamed buns". For example, several kinds of steamed buns filled with pure meat or vegetarian dishes introduced in Eating and Eating are all a mixture of "steamed buns" and "steamed buns". Such as "warehouse steamed bread" stuffed with mutton and sheep fat, and "deer milk fat steamed bread" stuffed with deer milk fat and sheep tail. , is purely meat. The "smallpox steamed bread" with boiled mutton, sheep fat and sheep tail (people generally call the male flower of corn "smallpox", but it is suspected that corn had not been introduced to China at that time) and the "rattan steamed bread" with boiled mutton, sheep fat and sheep tail are made of meat stuffing. Stuffing is usually made by mixing salt and sauce. In order to increase the flavor, ginger, onion and dried tangerine peel are often added to the stuffing. Here, let's take a look at the production of "flower-cut steamed bread" first.
Ingredients: mutton, sheep fat, sheep tail, onion and dried tangerine peel.
Method: Cut the above materials, mix them with salt and sauce, wrap them in "steamed bread", then cut out various patterns on "steamed bread" with scissors, steam them in a cage, and dye the flowers with rouge.
This kind of "steamed bread" with good color, fragrance and taste is not inferior to the steamed bread made by the best chefs today.
The stuffing of steamed buns described in The Complete Collection of Household Articles in Yuan Dynasty can also be roughly divided into two categories: meat and vegetables. Vegetarian stuffing includes sour stuffing and vegetable stuffing, among which there are two kinds of bean paste stuffing: one is "bean spicy stuffing" with green bean paste and ginger juice, and the other is "mashed sugar stuffing" made by grinding cooked red beans. There is also a kind of "Qibao stuffing" made of chestnut color, pine nuts, walnuts, gluten, ginger rice, cooked spinach and apricot jam. Meat stuffing is a "mixed stuffing" made of mutton; "Pork stuffing" made of pork and sheep fat; "Sheep belly stuffing" made of sheep belly, sheep tongue and mutton; "Cooked stuffing" made of peeled cooked pork and cooked bamboo shoots; Among them, the production of "fish steamed stuffed bun" is particularly distinctive: the main ingredient of the stuffing is carp or mandarin fish. The ingredients are sheep oil and lard. In addition to salt, sauce and vinegar, dried tangerine peel, cooked shredded ginger, minced Sichuan pepper, pepper, almond and chopped green onion are fried with sesame oil.
The book describes in detail the fermentation and production method of "sitting flat on a big steamed bread" (that is, steamed bread today, the same below): "Every ten minutes, use two and a half kilograms of white flour. Make a cup of yeast first, run a nest in the flour, pour the yeast juice, cover it with a piece of soft flour and dry flour, and put it in a warm place. When it rises, heat the vermicelli on all sides to make soup, and then cover it. Serve it again, add dried noodles and warm water. Eat it with hot soup in winter, without rubbing it. Put the pills back and the dough kneading agent will be wrapped. If you wipe it, you won't be fat. Its agent is softened, rolled into skin and filled. Draw in a windless place and put a sign on it. When the noodles come, steam in the cage bed. " This method of making dough is quite close to modern operation.
When people ate "steamed bread" at that time, they also paid great attention to the relationship between its materials and seasonality, and paid more attention to its symbolic color. The Complete Works of Household Necessities reveals that people eat more "lotus steamed bread" and "sunflower steamed bread" in summer when describing various "steamed bread" and their uses. At the wedding banquet, "sunflower steamed bread" is often the staple food, which means rich children. At birthday parties, you should eat more "longevity bag turtles" and "Gui Lian steamed bread", which is undoubtedly a symbol of longevity.
The method of making "bad steamed bread" described in Yunlintang Dietary System Collection by Ni Zan in Yuan Dynasty is also very distinctive: "Use fine steamed bread, one by one wrapped in yellow summer cloth, or wrapped in whole cloth. Spread it on the big plate first, and then spread it on the cloth. Thin the steamed bread, then cover it with cloth, and then cover it with thick cloth. Take it out overnight and fry it. You can stay for half a month in winter. Turn on the fire when it is cold. " This kind of steamed stuffed bun, worn out, is fried in fragrant oil and tastes good.
Steamed bread became a common food in Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Until the Ming Dynasty, "steamed bread" was still used as the proper name of steamed buns, and Wang Sanpin's Textual Research on Ancient and Modern Events quoted miscellaneous notes in the Ming Dynasty as saying: "Whoever takes noodles as utensils is called bread. So the fire is called sesame seed cake; What you eat in the water is called soup cake; What the cage eats is called steamed cake; And steamed bread is called cage cake, that's right. " It shows that the steamed buns at that time were still called "steamed buns" or "cage cakes".
According to Xu Li's "Ji 'an Old Man's Essays", in the early Ming Dynasty, people in Beijing also used "steamed bread" as a memorial to heroes: "To worship the Heroes Temple, 548 pieces were hidden with steamed bread. Jiangning and Shangyuan counties offered twenty loads of flour, and after the sacrifice, they were sent to the craftsmen of the Ministry of Industry for cooking. "
"Steamed bread" also played an important role in the emperor's diet. Huang Mingyizheng's Story and Brief Introduction to China Imperial Rice Noodles record that there are three kinds of imperial rice noodles: twisted steamed bread, eight-treasure steamed bread and stuffed steamed bread.
Because "steamed bread" has become people's daily food, the description of "steamed bread" often appears in novels of Ming and Qing Dynasties. Shi Naian wrote in the 27th chapter of The Water Margin: Song Wu saw a cage of steamed bread she took from the kitchen in a black shop in Sun Erniang, once took a look and cried, "Restaurant, this steamed bread is human flesh? Is it dog meat? " Aunt Sun said she was making fun of her, saying that her steamed bread was made of beef from her ancestors. As a result, Song Wu still dodged a bullet by his own cleverness, and finally did not let himself become the stuffing of "human flesh steamed bread".
It was not until the Qing Dynasty that the steamed stuffed bun got its own exclusive "name right". When talking about a kind of "soup-filled meat bag", Su Men's "Three Hundred Poems of Hanjiang River" in Qing Dynasty left a passage: "In spring, autumn and winter, broth is easy to coagulate. Pour it into the ground strip and think it is steamed stuffed bun. When steamed, the soup will melt but not drain. Yangzhou Teahouse is good at this. "
In the eighth episode of A Dream of Red Mansions, when describing Baoyu's conversation with Qingwen, he also mentioned a kind of "tofu skin steamed stuffed bun": "I had breakfast in that mansion today, and I thought you liked it. I told grandma Zhen that I would leave it for delivery at night. Can you eat? " This kind of steamed stuffed bun may refer to the steamed stuffed bun wrapped in tofu, which is recorded in the imperial cuisine archives of the Qing Dynasty.
However, its appellation is often completely opposite because of the difference between the north and the south: generally speaking, in the north, those without stuffing are called steamed buns, and those with stuffing are called steamed buns; In the south, those with stuffing are called xiaolongbao, and those without stuffing are also called "big longbao". There is such an analysis in the Notes of the Qing Dynasty: "The so-called steamed bread in the south is also fermented and steamed with bread crumbs, and it expands into a circle, but it is actually steamed bread."
But with the development of society, "steamed stuffed bun" and "steamed bread" finally have their own different names, the difference is that there is stuffing and there is no stuffing. Nowadays, there are many kinds of steamed buns: according to the different fillings, steamed buns include pork steamed buns, mutton steamed buns, beef steamed buns, mashed potatoes steamed buns, red bean paste steamed buns, jujube steamed buns and crab roe steamed buns. According to the different production methods, there are sauce meat buns, crystal buns, fried buns and steamed buns. According to the shape, there are monk's head bag, peach bag, lotus bag, duck egg bag, pomegranate bag, plum blossom bag, lantern bag, apple bag, pine cone bag and other varieties. As for famous products, there are Tianjin Goubuli Bao, Jingjiang Soup Bao and Yangzhou Steamed Soup Bao, among which Goubuli Bao is famous for its high popularity.
References (omitted)
Colorful past lives (serial)
Copyright works: E Block Dengzi-2017-A-00016841