Here is Meili Snow Mountain, the highest peak in Yunnan Province, with an altitude of 6740 meters.
The Sino-Japanese joint mountaineering team gathered in the hinterland of Meili Snow Mountain to make the final sprint preparation for challenging this Mount Everest. It has been snowing. Just after 22 o'clock, Camp 3 and the base camp at an altitude of 5 100 meters started the last communication of the day.
Camp No.3: "Now there is a lot of snow in Camp No.3, and the sight is not good. Snow thickness1.2m. "
Base camp: "Snow needs to be removed."
Camp No.3: "We remove snow every 2 3 hours. If this situation continues, the snow may exceed 2 meters. "
(At this point, there was a buzzing noise in the intercom. )
Base camp: "The battery is low, please replace the walkie-talkie."
Camp 3: "The battery has been changed. What now? "
Base camp: "It's still the same. Is it because the humidity is too high due to heavy snow? "
Camp 3: "Stop communicating, goodbye."
Base camp: "Goodbye."
22: 15, communication terminated.
This is the last contact with seventeen members of the mountaineering team.
/ /
A climber who descended a steep slope in the heavy snow. At the foot is a slope of several hundred meters.
199 1 year 65438+1October 3, the second mountain disaster occurred in Meili Snow Mountain, Yunnan Province. 0/7 members of the Sino-Japanese Friendship Joint Mountaineering Team/KLOC-were killed in an avalanche. In the modern mountaineering history of 100 years, Meili Snow Mountain has also become the only mountain that human beings can't climb to the top.
The climbers stayed in the snow-capped mountains forever, leaving only their grieving relatives and friends of the mountaineering troops. They were unwilling to make plans for the unsuccessful mountaineering for many years. Kobayashi Shangli, a member of the Kyoto University mountaineering team, is one of them who is particularly unwilling.
At that time, because he was going back to his hometown, Kobayashi did not participate in the summit of Meili Snow Mountain, so he escaped. He was a junior in college at that time. Among the dead players, there are his predecessors and his friends in the same grade.
What makes Kobayashi feel sad is that with the passage of time, he finds that the memory of being with teammates KINOMOTO SAKURA Junyi and Yusuke Yuji gradually fades away. "What should I do? I want to keep the memories of living with them. " Kobayashi had a bold idea in his mind: he went to Meili Snow Mountain to find the bodies of the victims himself.
However, it is difficult to find the remains of the victims in the vast Meili Snow Mountain. Although both China and Japan have been actively looking for it for some time, they have not gained anything.
Meili Snow Mountain Disaster Monument
When more than seven years have passed since the accident in July 1998, and people gradually gave up hope of finding the relics and team members, exciting news came from Mingyong Village at the foot of Meili Snow Mountain: some villagers found the remains and relics of climbers near Mingyong Glacier. China and Japan immediately organized a search team to go to Mingyong Village to salvage the remains. The families of the victims also went together.
It was this search for remains that changed Kobayashi's life. In the following twenty years, I searched in Meili Snow Mountain again and again, and I have successfully found sixteen bodies.
In the process of searching for the remains, Kobayashi made direct contact with Mingyong villagers under the Mingyong Glacier where the remains were first discovered, and only then did he realize the local people's rejection and hatred for climbing Meili Snow Mountain. As the executor of the long-term search for remains and relics in Mingyong Village, he stayed at the home of village head Tashi and interacted with the locals with trepidation. In the following years, he walked step by step through the snowfields, forests, rocks and deep valleys that he and his teammates ignored, and gained a deep understanding of the lives and beliefs of the villagers.
The village head of Tashi. From left, Yang Zong, Tashi, Gamsley, Zhuo Ma Ram, younger brother.
On the 30th anniversary of the Meili Snow Mountain disaster, the Chinese version of Meili Snow Mountain: Looking for Seventeen Friends written by Kobayashi was published. In plain and delicate words, this book records the heartbreaking horrible mountain disaster, the arduous search, the mysterious scenery of Meili Snow Mountain, the simple life of people under the mountain, the three trips out of the mountain and the changes of local life. Among them, the photos developed from the film of this mountain disaster relic are specially included, which is also the first time to disclose the photos of this mountain disaster relic.
The following is authorized to publish the preface made by anthropologist Guo Jing for this book and the chapter "Kawagebo under the moonlight in October" in the book. The pictures in this article are all from Meili Snow Mountain: Looking for seventeen friends.
Meili Snow Mountain: Looking for Seventeen Friends, by Kobayashi Shangli (Japan), translated by Wu, Yuefu Culture Beijing Joint Publishing Company, 202 1, 1.
Should human exploration be limited?
Author | Claire Kuo (Researcher, Yunnan Academy of Social Sciences)
Kobayashi Li Shang, in the process of planning a series of commemorative albums for the 30th anniversary of the Meili Mountain disaster, asked why Japanese people still care so much about this event that has passed in Japan. I remember that my answer at that time was a little vague, which didn't satisfy him or myself. However, an epidemic broke out at the end of 20 19, which continues to this day, as if God had revealed the answer-
Western modern civilization has established a logic in sturm und drang for hundreds of years, which is to divide the world into spiritual "people" and spiritual "nature" and solidify this difference in a pyramid classification system. The exploration movement, which originated in15th century, aims at the exploration and manipulation of wilderness and primitive by "civilization". Showing one's courage and wisdom through magnificent landscapes has also become the core value of adventure.
The watershed between Lancang River and Nujiang River-Dokvaya (4,480m). The climbers prayed devoutly for Manidui at the entrance of brick kiln.
From 1970s to 1990s, mountaineering and scientific research activities for Himalayan snow-capped mountains gradually broke away from the situation of single-handedness in the early days and entered an era of competing with each other. Meili mountain climbing is the most radical wave in this trend, but it suffered a fiasco under the condition of sufficient materials and comprehensive preparation. The root of its frustration is underestimating the power of nature, which is not only manifested in the sudden avalanche, but also in the local belief in the holy mountain.
It seems difficult to compare the setback of Meili Mountain climbing with the disaster of South Station spreading, but both of them highlight two core issues covered by science and technology and economic prosperity: how should human beings get along with nature and culture.
This snow peak, which is called "Meili" by climbers and tourists, means "snow" (Kawagebo) in Tibetan. This name contains profound implications: it not only has the natural appearance of rocks and forests, but also is endowed with the divinity of human awe. For thousands of years, the local people have relied on the protection of Kawagebo, and thus drew an insurmountable boundary between mankind and the sacred world.
The so-called "mountain god" is a symbol of strength, which has great power and can bless and destroy many small lives. However, looking at the mountains, rivers, lakes and oceans where we live, people who think they are at the top of the biological chain are invading sacred forests, ice peaks, wetlands and beaches everywhere, "cleaning up" the species and landscapes they hate, and at the same time they are bound to be retaliated by the self-correction of the biosphere. The focus of this conflict is precisely the cross-examination that we always avoid in the face of disaster but can no longer avoid: is nature sacred? Should human exploration be limited?
Looking at the top of Meili Snow Mountain from Camp No.2 (Photo: Mountaineers in distress)
The explorer was caught in such a fierce conflict that he had to bear unpredictable consequences. As an idealistic climber who was trapped in the "Mosken Vortex", Kobayashi did not escape like others. Of course, his original intention was not to know what a mountain was. In fact, the Japanese also believe in mountain gods, but in their culture, pilgrims can climb to the top of the mountain to pray to the gods. He originally went to look for the remains of his friends, just like the water island in Myanmar Harp. After the Second World War, he stayed in Southeast Asia to collect the remains of fallen soldiers and let their souls have a home.
1August 5, 999, I went to the glacier with village chief Tashi, villagers Dawa and Kobayashi Shangli to film their search for the relics of the victims. At that time, Kobayashi knew little about Tibetans and even had doubts. When I went to Da Tashi's home a month later, he had established a preliminary friendship with his family. Twelve-year-old Bai Mazimu and eleven-year-old Song Jipin started chatting with him in Tibetan and Chinese, and Dazaxi took advantage of drunkenness to popularize the basic knowledge of Kawagebo belief with him. An older and deeper tradition than exploration, like alcohol, permeates the body and mind of Japanese guests. Like Gauguin and Locke, rebels who fled the city but were trapped in Shan Ye gradually shed their hard armor and became photographers and explorers of mountain culture.
This example of identity and soul transformation is an exception in the history of exploration. I was fortunate enough to witness this legend on the ordinary road and witnessed the story of a climber being transformed by a snowy mountain. This story may herald a prospect: even with our own meager strength, we can break a gap in the wall between cultures and between humans and ecological landscapes, and a ray of hope can penetrate.
The mountain disaster brought despair, but it also brought a story of ordinary people turning around Gan Kun. To be exact, Kobayashi did his best, but the fate of promoting this unmanned work came from the mountain god in the velvet land. He will mercilessly bury the bodies of climbers, but in the end he will save their souls.
An athlete who transports supplies by sleigh. The snow between Camp 2 and Camp 3 is soft and easy to sink, so using sledge is an effective method. (photo of relics)
Kawagbo in the moonlight
Author (Japan) Kobayashi Shangli
Translator | Funny
In the month of 10, the corn has begun to be coated with a layer of golden yellow. June+10/early October in 5438 is the end of the rainy season. I set out with the villagers in Mingyong Village and started a trip to Meili Snow Mountain.
Meili Snow Mountain is located in the transition zone from Qinghai-Tibet Plateau to Plain, with an average elevation of 4000 meters. This mountain range is called "Hengduan Mountain Range" because there are three big rivers flowing north and south, and the steep mountains parallel to them block the east-west traffic. These three rivers are Jinsha River (upper reaches of Yangtze River), Lancang River (upper reaches of Mekong River) and Nujiang River (upper reaches of salween).
The turning mountain road of Meili Snow Mountain is a long mountain road from the main stream of Lancang River to Nujiang River at an altitude of about 5000 meters, and then back to Lancang River through the watershed. Starting from the dry-hot valley where cactus grows, through the forest with the fragrance of pine mushrooms, and climbing to the cold pass full of alpine plants, the richness of climate diversity along the way is staggering. Incredibly, they all belong to the same area.
Overlooking the main peak from camp 2. Black spots far away from Camp 2 may be an alternative location for Camp 3. (The picture shows the first movie version of the mountain ruins. )
The 20-day trip around the mountain has allowed me to observe this land with a broader vision. Seeing people living around the mountains and believers coming to the mountains from distant places, I really felt the existence of Meili Snow Mountain as a lofty belief.
After my mountain trip, I realized my ignorance of Meili Snow Mountain and felt abandoned by the mountain. But it is precisely because of this feeling that I made up my mind to shoot Meili Snow Mountain seriously. I began to plan to experience every different season in this land.
When I came back from the mountain, I found there was no snow on the glacier, so I decided to search again. At this time, the mountain is completely a pleasant autumn scenery.
A new body was found this time. This is the last search for glaciers this year. During this year, the * * * meter conducted ten searches and confirmed the bodies of seven people. They are Tetsuo Sasaki, Ji Jun Kudo, Junzhi Zongsen, Wang Jianhua, Lin Wensheng, Lang and Li Zhiyun. Together with the remains found last year, the remains of 12 players have been confirmed. While completing this work, there is another achievement. There has never been a formal measurement of the velocity of Mingyong Glacier in history. We found that the horizontal speed of Mingyong Glacier is 32 meters per month. In addition, it can be inferred from the moving distance of the remains that the speed of Mingyong Glacier is between 200 meters and 500 meters per year.
Search the scene of the body. The village chief Tashi and others are crossing the ice gap at the end of the glacier.
According to the research of glaciologists, the fastest flow rate of Himalayan glaciers is only a few tens of meters per year. The discharge of Mingyong Glacier is about ten times this value. This glacier speed shows the heavy snow and steep mountain terrain of Meili Snow Mountain. When introducing Mingyong Glacier, geographic magazines and newspapers said: "(It) may be the fastest flowing alpine glacier in the world."
Among the 17 people killed were experts in snow and ice and meteorology. They paid the price of their lives and let us know the existence of such a glacier.
10 In late June, the rainy season ended completely. I seem to have never seen such a clear blue sky. I can see Meili Snow Mountain all day. Due to the snowfall in summer, there is more snow on the top of the mountain.
On the surrounding mountains, you can clearly see the red leaves spreading from the high part of the hillside to the foot of the mountain. The corn in the field has been harvested, and the walnut leaves are slowly turning golden.
The base camp of the body receiving team.
Between coming back from the mountains and returning to Japan, I began to have the opportunity to shoot Kawagebo at night. Although I have tried many times before, I have never succeeded once because of the bad weather in summer.
This night, full moon night. Bathed in the dissolved moonlight, the snow-capped mountains under the night sky are clearly visible. I walked to the roof with the best shooting angle, set up a tripod, opened the camera shutter, put on a sleeping bag and lay down. Two hours later, the alarm clock rang. I opened my eyes in fear and thought, "I wonder what the weather is like?"
"That's great! It's still sunny! "
Meili Snow Mountain under the night sky is like a floating white silk. It seems that the mountain itself is a white luminous body. What an incredible sight!
Close the shutter and I'll go to the next exposure right away. I repeated the shooting five times that night. Watching the stars fall asleep slowly is really at the peak of happiness.
At half past six in the morning, the sky slowly lit up. It's a little cold, but it's sunny today and the camera is still on. At 7: 30, the top of Meili Snow Mountain shows a glimmer of light, which is the time of sunrise on the ground. The thin pink light gradually became stronger and soon covered the whole top of the mountain. At the moment of shining on the mountain, the morning light suddenly turned pink like a burning flame, and then gradually turned orange-red. Until the first day, the light has been shut at the foot of the mountain, and the light has become less dazzling golden yellow, just like the surging passion returning to calm.
This process actually lasted only ten minutes, and I kept holding my breath and staring. This is my first mysterious meeting with Kawagbo since I came here four months ago.
Kawagebo in the moonlight. No one has ever reached the top of this holy mountain. The place with lights at the foot of the mountain is Feilaisi Village.
10 is over, and I'm leaving the village. That day, I was packing in my room when Tashi came in with something in his hand. "Xiao Lin, this is my little gift. Take it back to Japan and drink it. " He said and handed me a pot of wine. The side reads: "Farewell to Japanese friends, village chief Mingyong, Tashi." I like this gift very much. Arnie and Jia sent a bag of walnuts and a bag of Ciba respectively. The huge bag made me feel a little embarrassed, but I accepted it gratefully out of their kindness.
Tashi said: "Although I may not be able to come again in the near future, I will definitely see you again when my hair turns white."
"Thank you! I will definitely come again. "
We shook hands tightly.
I have a real feeling about my acquaintance with him. This is the first time that I trust people from another country so unreservedly. My idea of the mountain has changed because of getting along with Tashi and the villagers. Meili Snow Mountain is no longer the "climbing target" all the time, but has become a sacred mountain called "Kawagebo".
I asked Arnie, "Which season do you like best?"
"In the winter, I will certainly do a lot of delicacies and dance all day."
Hearing this answer, I secretly set a time to visit here again.
In the evening, friends from the village came to say goodbye, and some people brought me wine as a parting gift.
Deqin's bus arrived, and we loaded the bodies and relics. It was dark, and I bid farewell to Mingyong Village under the watchful eyes of the villagers. We all laughed and agreed to meet again. I looked up again after the car left the village. As when I came, Kawagebo was hidden in thick clouds.
"Ah Lasso!" Morning prayers to kawagebo.
Author Kobayashi Shangli Claire Kuo
Excerpt from Li Yongbo
Editor Xu Yuedong
Proofread Li Xiangling