Sichuan embroidery
According to the specific needs of elephants, two or two or three bolts are used to latch them, and generally only two colors are used. Deep lock light color, shallow lock dark color. This stitch is suitable for embroidered landscapes, peacock feathers, etc. To reflect their authenticity and color. One of the basic stitches of Shu embroidery. It is a regular long and short needle, and each layer is different in color. The first layer is a long and short dense needle.
Sichuan embroidery
E 1 In the short needle, the second layer E2 is in the long needle, the second layer covers the thin needle on the first layer, and the needle of the third layer needs to be on the line of the first layer. This stitch can be dipped in color, which is mostly used to embroider feathers. Shu Xiu Xiu is a must in the world.
The development of Shu embroidery is based on the richness of Shu, especially the quality and quantity of silk produced (the famous Southern Silk Road originated in Chengdu). Therefore, in the Tang and Song Dynasties, "people who weave silks and silks are poor in the world" (History of Song Dynasty Geography), and "people weave ice dances and embroideries for the best in the world" (at the end of the long edition of "Continuing the History as a Mirror"). Chengdu is prosperous, enjoys life and can do something with art. It is known in history that "great craftsmanship and exquisite brocade almost reached the country") Sui Shu geography. Good social and material conditions and rich spiritual atmosphere make embroidery a wonderful flower in the world.
Those rich scholars and girls are also well dressed. Most of the words in Huajianji are the love affairs of men and women in the five dynasties in central Sichuan, and sometimes they are described by embroidery, such as "Newly embroidered Luo Luo, with both golden partridges" (text) and "Pu Jinchun's daughter, embroidered clothes are full of gold, and the fog is light" (Wei Zhuang); In addition to wearing, I also use various embroidery and patterns to express my feelings and touch the realm, such as "red candle on my back, embroidered inexperience, long dream but I don't know" (text), "embroidered mandarin duck pillow warm, painted peacock screen" (Gu Zeng) and so on. Although a poet, we can also find out the customs at that time; From the description of the specific background of boudoir, we can see that the prosperity of needlework, such as "Yingge waning moon, embroidered pavilion with incense lights out" (Wei Zhuang), "Looking at flowers in the backyard, fragrant wind blowing embroidered doors" (Mao Wenxi) and so on, has almost become a glamorous mantra. For example, "embroidered door" refers to the house of a large family, such as Wang Shu. In the poems mentioned above, mandarin ducks and partridges are often embroidered with money, which is always a matter of rich families. For example, Bai Juyi's poem "A rich girl in a red chamber, a golden thread stabbed her", the so-called embroidered pavilion, is where all the ladies are. But we can also see the importance of embroidery and embroidery in women's sexual life. Shu embroidery spread the charm of painting and destroyed the traces of needle and thread.
Ancient Shu embroidery is rarely passed down from generation to generation. An earlier "Northern Song Shu Embroidery Double Crown Picture" (now Southwest Normal University in Tibet) embroidered two cockscomb flowers, an island and water ripples, and a cock held its head high and fluttered its wings to show the dawn. It is engraved with the imperial seal of "Ming Chang Yulan". Ming Chang is the title of Emperor Jin Zhangzong, probably given to Xu Jin by Song Dynasty. The ancient landscape flower-and-bird painting in China matured in the Five Dynasties, and its outstanding representatives were painters such as Huang Quan and Hao Jing in the Southern Tang Dynasty in Western Shu. The embroidery of the Song people is fine in needle and thread, with one or two threads, and the needle is as thin as hair. The embroidery of flowers, birds, fish and insects is not so delicate that it can't be real. In addition, the theme is natural and fresh, which is more lively than the dragons, phoenixes and popular patterns in the Han and Tang Dynasties. After endorsing embroidery, we say that "the work imitates Song embroidery" and praise "fine embroidery", that is to say, it can "eliminate the trace of needle and thread" and call it "needle god". This is an imitation of Song painting, and some even mean "painting embroidery".
Qin Liangyu brocade in Ming Dynasty is also a rare embroidery seen in Sichuan today. One is gold embroidered blue satin embroidered with python patterns on the chest and back sleeves, and the other is colored satin embroidered with the patterns of Wanfu, Ruyi, Moire and Treasure. One is Qin Liangyu, a Pingjin man with a yellow satin embroidered python and phoenix shirt. In addition to the python pattern, the back of the chest is embroidered with double phoenix, and the foot of the skirt is embroidered with Shoushan Fuhai, with colorful clouds in the blank. Qin Liangyu is a great star. Emperor Chongzhen once summoned him and wrote poems in recognition of his achievements in the war. As the saying goes, "Shu brocade is a robe man, and peach blossom invites him to wear a long tassel immediately." There are many strange people in the world who are willing to travel thousands of miles on the battlefield. " He galloped on the battlefield in the embroidered embroidered embroidered embroidered embroidered robe of Shu brocade, and his beauty and bravery were not comparable to those of men. Dress yellow was very popular with emperors in Sui and Tang Dynasties. After Song and Yuan Dynasties, red yellow, Dan yellow and light yellow were exclusive to the imperial dynasty. Qin Liangyu can wear yellow satin pythons and phoenix robes because he is called "the patent of Taibao Prince's wife". Notes on Ancient Style contains a large number of tapestries of Qin Liangyu. There is a book called "Song of Qin Liangyu Brocade": ... Gong Jin came back to touch the robe, which is a natural mistake in gold carving and embroidery ... Brocade Yuefu Beauty sings, bows and embroiders. "(see" Listening to the Rain Building Essays "quoted by Wang Peixun in Qing Dynasty). It can be seen that this well-crafted shirt of Qin Liangyu Temple in Shizhu County is very famous. The remarkable feature of Shu embroidery is its artistic effect and coherent charm in one go.
A Sichuan folk song that sings a girl embroidering a purse for her lover to express her love. There is a saying that "someone wants to embroider a purse, but my parents are busy embroidering it." In feudal society, young men and women fell in love, disobeyed their parents and gave gifts privately, so they had to hide it. Take your wallet with you, not only for money and things, but also for decoration. The description of costumes in Yuan Zaju novels in Ming and Qing Dynasties often refers to Ouyang Xiu's Purple Lotus Pendant. Because it is embroidered with colored silk thread, it must be from the boudoir and given to my sweetheart. The pattern is embroidered with Yuanyang or Bingdilian, which means that lovers will never part, and the needle and thread are extremely skilled. The most common thing is the deep affection of women. Not all wallets are special, but embroidery is not an idle means. When the pre-Qin classics recorded "observing the ancient images", they mentioned "knowing how to make" (that is, painting) and "embroidery" together, saying that "painting (painting) is mixed with five colors ... five colors are used to prepare embroidery" (Shangshu and Zhou Li). Both painting and embroidery use colors, and "embroidery should also be painted as thorns", which shows that it is not simple. Before the Han Dynasty, embroidery was mainly clothes. Wang Chong's Lun Heng said: "A master of embroidery can only sew clothes". The so-called "embroidery" is literary embroidery (Book of Rites). Only the emperor's clothes are embroidered with five colors. It is said that embroidery in the Zhou Dynasty is different from silk and embroidery made of silk. "Historical Records" records that "Chu Zhuangwang loves horses, and his clothes are embroidered with words, which are placed in China and Washington". It is extremely noble for the emperor's pet to wear embroidered silk clothes. During the Warring States Period, Wan Qi's famous Lu was probably related to Qi Jun's advocating embroidery and "constant women can do anything". At that time, mass production of silk embroidery was extremely extravagant, so the name of Qi was "the country with clothes on".
Clothes are respected and classy because of embroidery. The book Yu Fu Zhi in the ancient official history lists this difference in detail and calls it "the rise of laws and regulations" (the book of the old Tang Dynasty). Not only that, silk must also be "skillfully decorated with five flowers and five needles" to be precious. This is the miracle of "Splendid, called Zhuoshu" and "Lunheng", and it is also the beginning of China's female achievements (Book of Rites). Wang Chong's theory that Confucian scholars are rich in talents is better than "the wonder of Jewish women workers weaving splendid flowers". Especially in places where commerce is developed and life is luxurious, embroidery is more prosperous, and famous artists come forth in large numbers and form their own school. Splendid Shu Embroidery: Five Military Merits Won Panama Royal International Gold Medal.
As a specialized skill, embroidery was often controlled by imperial government in history. For example, in the Song Dynasty, a literary embroidery institute was set up to recruit embroidery workers to embroider clothes and decorations for the royal family. In the Yuan Dynasty, embroidery bureaus were set up all over the country. In the Ming dynasty, the palace set up a workshop to take charge of various crafts. In the Qing dynasty, similar institutions were called manufacturing offices. These official institutions not only supervised the needs of the imperial government, but also played a positive role in formally establishing the embroidery industry and improving its social and economic status. For example, in the 29th year of Guangxu (1903), the Qing government set up the Sichuan Provincial General Administration of Persuading Workers in Chengdu, with an embroidery department under it, and hired famous artists to design embroidery manuscripts and study embroidery skills. At that time, a group of distinctive painters such as Liu Zibian's landscape, Zhao Heqin's flowers and birds, lotus flowers and insects and fish in Zhang Zhian entered embroidery, which not only improved the artistic appreciation level of Shu embroidery, but also produced a group of famous embroidery artists such as Wang, Luo Wensheng and so on. Zhang Hongxing and other famous artists embroidered animal quadruple screens and won the gold medal in Panama Games. Zhang Hongxing's embroidered lion rolling hydrangea hanging on the screen was awarded by the Qing Dynasty and won the fifth-class military merit, which won a great reputation for Shu embroidery.
However, the formation of Shu embroidery was earlier than the official persuasion bureau. During the Daoguang period (1830), the folk organization Huang San Shen was founded. This is a specialized guild of embroidery industry consisting of shops (shopkeepers), materials (foremen) and teachers (workers). This formal attachment, the establishment of professional rules, the determination of professional division of labor, and the protection of the interests of all parties in the industry (such as production and sales) show that Shu embroidery has gradually entered the market from the family, forming a large-scale production widely needed by society. At that time, there were 80 or 90 embroidery workshops in Jiulong Lane and Hakka Lane in Chengdu, and the Shu embroidery industry became more prosperous after the establishment of the official persuasion bureau. For example, embroidery at the Huang San Expo can be divided into three categories: clothing (practical products such as making dresses, chardonnay and sleeves), costumes (costumes) and lanterns (screens for weddings and funerals, collecting accounts, etc.). By the time the Bureau of Industry was persuaded, practical products had enriched the types of embroidery appreciation, such as stripes, nave, fighting squares and horizontal curtains. And divide the theme with ancient famous paintings such as Su Dongpo's strange stones. Embroidered popular patterns, including landscapes, flowers and birds, Bo Gu, dragons and phoenixes, wawen, ancient coins, and folk stories, such as crossing the sea by the Eight Immortals, Ma Gu's birthday, playing the flute to attract phoenix, and Kirin giving away children. There are also magpies playing plum blossoms, Yuanyang playing in the water, and happiness from now on, and the phoenix wearing peony. These are very rich. Shu embroidery is widely circulated among the people, and male embroidery workers are unique.
Shu embroidery is very popular among the people. At that time, embroidery was a sideline in rural areas around Chengdu, and some families passed it down from generation to generation, so there were many experts in embroidery among the people. However, the vigorous research and creation of embroidery by the persuasion bureau in turn promoted the development of folk embroidery industry, and the number of embroidery shops and shops increased. Market demand has stimulated the progress of Shu embroidery technology. With the improvement of embroidery technology, Shu embroidery became famous. It is said that many court embroideries in the Qing Dynasty came from Sichuan, and the products produced by Chengdu census were Chinese odyssey, ten times better than those produced in the East. This naturally depends on the inherent tradition of Shu embroidery. According to statistics, there are more than 12 stitches and 130 kinds of Shu embroidery, which are the most abundant among the four famous embroideries, and more than 70 brocade threads are unique to Shu embroidery. Therefore, foreigners who came to Chengdu at that time bought more old embroidery from decades ago as playthings, and they could pay a lot of money, such as women's skirts, as door curtains. Officialdom, bought is the cover on the coffee table; The embroidered account will be bought and hung on the wall as a screen (Overview of Chengdu). Of course, its exquisite embroidered pictures are still very precious. The transformation of practicality into enjoyment is the promotion of its aesthetic value. From the embroidery works of Chengdu in the late Qing Dynasty and the embroidery works of the Persuasion Bureau listed in local chronicles, we can see that Shu embroidery paid great attention to the production of daily necessities at that time. This is a prominent aspect of the folk nature of Shu embroidery, and there is no lack of embroidery among the people because of the needs of life. In their spare time, urban and rural women often put headscarves or even embroideries on their shoes, hats and pillows. Practice is particularly good to become a master. For example, Wang Songxuan's "History of Women in Chengdu", she made her own colored lines and embroidered them with famous pastels, especially her works and sketches, which were sought after by the market. At that time, embroidery was very fashionable, especially for young people now, so I loved my family and longed for world-famous products. For example, the embroidery of Gu Jia in Shanghai Luxiangyuan was spread from the Ming Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, and the theme of famous paintings in Song and Yuan Dynasties was integrated into embroidery, all of which were exquisite. It is called Gu embroidery in the world, which is a typical boudoir painting embroidery and a representative of folk embroidery. In the late Qing Dynasty, as in Suzhou and Hangzhou, rust shops often used Gu embroidery signs. Although the packaging shows that its embroidery is good, it also shows that Shu embroidery can absorb the skills of Gu embroidery. It is said that Qing Daoguang-nian has just been transferred from Suzhou to Sichuan, and there are three masters of costume embroidery in the accompanying troupe, all of whom are male and are very concerned about embroidery skills. Later, he recruited disciples to teach skills and incorporated the method of Gu embroidery into Shu embroidery. Nowadays, almost all the old artists of Shu embroidery are men, because the recruitment at that time was limited to secular etiquette and could not recruit boudoir women. Shu embroidery is facing the protection of lost people of insight.
Today's Sichuan embroidery seems to have restored her daughter's true colors, and it is difficult to see male embroidery workers again. There is a saying in Zhang Liang's "Embroidery Fu": Seek ingenuity in creation, fix decoration on everything ... Look at the shadow and be self-righteous, look at the mirror and feel sorry for yourself, and decorate the clothes brilliantly ... To express the skill, feeling and beauty of embroidery is beyond the description of a non-daughter's work. Without the impression of female workers' embroidery, how can we appreciate the ever-changing boudoir scene of embroidered flowers and birds, and how can we feel the feelings of children wishing to spend the world from a human perspective (the poem "Recalling Embroidery" by Christine Mountain in Qing Dynasty)? The embroidery workshop of Sichuan embroidery and Shu embroidery is far from the emotional appeal of Miss Xiulou in the past, nor is it lazy embroidery. Shu embroidery, as an ancient craft, is favored by the east and the west for its unique craft (such as Shuang Mianxiu, three different embroideries, different colors and different sides of needles) and patterns with local characteristics (such as lotus carp, bamboo pheasant, landscape panda, flower and bird figures, etc.). ). It can be purchased as a commodity and can be used as a handicraft to contain and inherit folk culture.
After entering the new century, with the rapid development of science and technology, computer embroidery flooded the market. Computer embroidery patterns can be seen everywhere on people's bodies and bags, which is both economical and beautiful. Who takes the time and effort to get a Shu embroidery pattern on his body? In addition, the old Shu embroidery artists are not good at making eyes, and young girls are unwilling to learn and have no patience to wait and die. Therefore, Sichuan, as a national folk art treasure, is facing the situation of loss and extinction.