Rock climbing protection
Upper protection
A form of protection where the protection fulcrum is above the climber. In the process of climbing, the protector has been pulling the rope, so that there is no rope left on the climber's chest, but don't pull it too tightly, so as not to affect the climber's action, which should be paid special attention to when climbing high elevation angle. The upper protection has no special requirements for climbers, and the impact force is small and safer when falling. In the following protection, the equipment used generally includes seat belts, iron locks and descenders. When the protector takes up the rope, it should be noted that one hand should always hold the rope behind the descender (or hold the ropes at both ends of the descender together), and it is difficult to stop falling only by holding the rope in front of the descender.
Bottom protection
The protection method that the protection fulcrum is located under the climber. There is no preset protection point on it, just hang the protection rope into the iron lock on the safety fulcrum on the way during the climber's ascent. This is the only feasible protection method for leading climbers, which is practical and stipulated in international competitions. However, this kind of protection requires the climber to hang himself for protection, and it has a long falling distance and strong impact when falling, so it is generally used by skilled people.
Climbing technique
Rock climbing requires good physical conditions, but more importantly, skilled skills. Learning climbing skills is very practical and must be practiced in constant climbing. If you have skilled people to guide you, you will get twice the result with half the effort.
skill
The fundamental purpose of freehand rock climbing is to make the body move upward and get close to the rock wall. There are many fulcrum shapes on the rock wall, and there are dozens of common ones. Climbers should be familiar with the shapes of these fulcrums and know where to grasp different fulcrums and how to exert their strength. According to the position and direction of the protrusion (depression) on the fulcrum, there are methods such as digging, pinching, pulling, grasping, holding and pushing. But don't insist. There are many ways to grasp the same fulcrum. For example, the fulcrum is a round knot with a small platform on it. Generally, you can put your fingers on it and pull it vertically, but in order to keep your body close to the rock wall, you can hold it tightly and pull it horizontally. For another example, sometimes two hands hold the same fulcrum, and the former hand can give up the best grip first and give it to the latter hand to avoid the trouble of changing hands.
When grasping the fulcrum, especially when exerting force horizontally, the position of the connecting arm should be at the bottom, and the horizontal friction force should be increased by downward pulling force; To make full use of the thumb, try to put the thumb on the fulcrum. For the common fulcrum of the transverse shallow groove, twist the thumb, buckle the ventral side of the finger into the flat groove, or place it horizontally on the back of the index finger and middle finger to increase strength. Finger strength is very important in rock climbing, which can usually be practiced by means of finger lying support, pull-ups, finger hanging pull-ups and lifting heavy objects. At present, some foreign experts have been able to reach the strength level of one-way aerobics. When climbing a long route, you can choose an easy position to take turns to rest.
The rest area should be chosen where there is no elevation angle or the elevation angle is small and the fulcrum on the hand is large. When resting, keep your feet firmly on the fulcrum, keep your arms straight (it is difficult to rest when bending over), push your upper body backward, but your waist must be pushed forward, so that your lower body can cling to the rock wall and your weight can be pressed on your feet, reducing the burden on your arms, moving your fingers, shaking your hands to relax, and rubbing some magnesium powder to avoid slipping.
Paitui
In order to reach a certain level of rock climbing, you must learn to use your legs and feet. Legs have great bearing capacity, explosive force and endurance, so we should make full use of the strength of legs and feet in climbing. Rock climbing usually wears special climbing shoes. The soles of these shoes are hard rubber, the forefoot is slightly thick, the shoe body is tough leather, the toe is pointed, and the sole friction is large. Wearing these shoes can firmly support the whole body weight when you step on a fulcrum as narrow as less than one centimeter wide. When buying this kind of shoes, everyone must pay attention to it, and don't buy them too big. As long as you can get in, your big toes are dug in and you can't straighten up. The tighter the shoes, the more stable the stress. Some players even have to put their feet in with the quick hooks on the back of their shoes during the competition.
Beginners often buy shoes that are too big, and after a while, they will feel that their feet are loose and they can't step on them. There are only four places where one foot can touch the fulcrum: the shoes point forward; Inner edge of toe (big toe); The outer edge of the toe (toe with four toes) and the toe of the heel (mainly used to hang the foot when turning the eaves), and can only step into the width of about one finger, not too much, for example, put the whole sole on it to make the foot rotate and move left and right under load, and carry out actions such as changing feet and turning.
Changing feet is a basic technical action, which is often used in rock climbing. It is common for some beginners to jump up with their front feet when changing their feet, and their back feet accurately fall on the original fulcrum of their front feet. It looks neat, but it's actually wrong, because on the one hand, it makes it harder for their fingers to eat, on the other hand, it causes physical imbalance, and more importantly, it is impossible to change their feet like this when their feet are high.
The correct way should be to ensure stability and not increase the burden on hands. Take right foot for left foot as an example. First lift your left foot above your right foot, and turn your right foot counterclockwise (looking down) with the right foot on the fulcrum as the axis. The fulcrum is empty on the left, and the weight is still on the right foot. The left foot cuts in from above, steps on it, and the right foot must be pulled out, and the weight will be transferred to the left foot. I'm used to it, just like putting oil on my feet. The right foot slides out from the fulcrum and the left foot slides in at the same time. The weight is always borne by the feet, and the hand is only used to adjust the balance. In addition to supporting weight, feet are often used to keep balance during climbing. Your foot doesn't have to step on the fulcrum all the time. Sometimes you have to hang one leg to adjust the position of your body's center of gravity, so that the weight can be stably transferred to the other foot.
centre of gravity
When climbing, you should know the position of your center of gravity and control the movement of your center of gravity flexibly. The main purpose of moving the center of gravity is to reduce the load on both hands and maintain the balance of the body. At first, most of the movements were blind and I didn't know how to experience them. They just want to climb a liter. In fact, beginners had better not rush to climb high. They have to do translation exercises for a period of time first, that is, move horizontally from one side of the rock wall to the other, and experience basic skills such as center of gravity, balance and use of hands and feet.
In the most basic three-point fixation, when changing points with one hand, the center of gravity usually moves to the opposite side, so that the hand can be released easily without load before leaving the original fulcrum. When moving laterally, you should sink your center of gravity and let your hands hang on the fulcrum instead of pulling it. Under normal circumstances, you should step on your foot firmly, and then reach for the next fulcrum, instead of stepping on your foot in vain and pulling your body up by pulling it from your hand. Be sure to pay attention to the experience of lifting your heart with the strength of your legs. Only by moving up can you maintain balance.
It is generally believed that the body should be as close to the rock wall as possible, which is correct. However, it is common for some experts to stay away from the rock wall. This is because their commonly used technical actions such as side pulling, hand and foot pointing, balancing the body and other preparatory actions all need a certain space with the rock wall, and only when the body rises, the body sticks to the surface of the rock wall. Usually, the adjustment of the center of gravity is mainly achieved by pushing and pulling the waist and buttocks and balancing the legs. The waist is the center of the human body, and its movement directly drives the movement of the center of gravity. Larger movements tend to form some beautiful movements. It is also common to stretch your legs horizontally and use the weight of your legs and feet to balance your body.
Side pull
Side pull is a very important technical action, which can greatly save upper limb strength. Some originally difficult fulcrums can be easily reached, especially when crossing the facade section. Its basic technical points are that the body leans towards the rock wall, the hands and feet on the opposite side of the body touch the rock wall, the other leg straightens to adjust the balance of the body, and the body is propped up by the strength of one leg to grasp the upper fulcrum. Take the left hand grasping the fulcrum as an example, and the body is facing left.
What is rock climbing?
Simply put, rock climbing is climbing a rock wall. But I think human beings have been climbing for many different reasons for a long time, perhaps starting from primitive people, but as you know, this is not what we thought. Actually, that's it. 18, 19 century, mountaineering flourished under the leadership of Europeans, so gradually some people went climbing purely for climbing and not for other reasons. In order to practice rock climbing skills, some people began to climb in non-alpine places. This kind of rock climbing is gradually known and loved by people, and finally becomes a popular sport and has been developing and evolving to this day.
Two key points:
First, climbing is climbing with your hands. Climbing with your feet is not climbing, so climbing on warship rocks is not climbing. Walking on the snowy mountain is not called climbing, but climbing. Rock climbing should not only "rock", but also "climb".
Secondly, the rock climbing I want to talk about now refers to "pure" rock climbing, that is, climbing only for the sake of climbing and not for other purposes. For example, climbing the Alps in order to attack France is not what I call rock climbing. So rock climbing refers to a special rock climbing activity. Of course, rock climbing in a broad sense can cover a wide range, but please don't confuse it.
Classification of rock climbing:
I talked about how rock climbing started, but it didn't end like this. Everyone's skills are getting better and better, and the equipment for rock climbing is getting better and better. More and more people are interested in rock climbing and adventure. Then the competition started and the artificial rock field appeared. Some climbers or athletes try their best to exercise and challenge the limits. Gradually, rock climbing became more and more sporty, so sports rock climbing was formed.
In order to distinguish them, there are two different climbing methods: traditional climbing and sports climbing.
The so-called traditional rock climbing is more "traditional" and more adventurous than sports rock climbing. It means that to challenge a cliff, you often have to set your own fixed point, and the location is often remote, paying more attention to originality. For example, climb a big rock wall that no one has climbed, set a fixed point for yourself, find some for yourself, and go up in your own way. The key point is to challenge the unknown and solve the difficulties encountered. Even if others climb, the methods used are mostly different. This is originality.
On the other hand, sports rock climbing is more athletic, which means challenging or exerting physical strength. Most of them are carried out in artificial rock fields or easily accessible rock walls, and there are many fixed points, so the safety is high and the risk is reduced. You can think of it as a sport, just like basketball and tennis, where you can watch the game at home, sweat on weekends and exercise your bones and muscles. The route of sports rock climbing is often known and quite fixed. It is common to repeat the points or methods used by others. Unlike the traditional climbing method, it is not easy to climb with others.
Sports rock climbing is more difficult in extreme difficulty, one is to challenge the limit, and the other is to engage in different conditions. Although sports rock climbing and traditional rock climbing are two different styles, there is no clear boundary between them, so some rock climbing belongs to the gray area between them, and it is difficult to distinguish which one belongs to. In fact, there is no need to distinguish clearly, and no one stipulates that you must climb according to these styles. This is only a description of the current situation of human rock climbing activities, and rock climbing is very free.