Before the end of Qing Dynasty (19 1 1), the clothes worn by Zhuang people were all self-spun, self-woven and self-stitched. At that time, women's clothes were more colorful than men's. They are wearing blue dry clothes with big breasts, and their skirts and sleeves are embroidered with large lace from the collar to the right armpit. The collar is very short and shows their necks. I'm wearing a long, ankle-length pleated skirt, or a pair of wide pants with lace. Outside the skirt, in the center of my leg, I embroidered a large vertically symmetrical lace and made several folds on my hips. The foot of my skirt under my hip was rolled up about an inch, and several stitches were sewn on both sides to form an arched back skirt. Seen from the front, it is a tube skirt, and seen from the back, it is a folding skirt. The upper and lower dresses are close to my body, and the lines are particularly clear and elegant. Embroidered shoes with round feet. A strong man wears a black cloth double-breasted suit with a round neck and wide sleeves and 7-9 buttons on the front. The buttons are made of black cloth, and the front buttons are buckled when you wear them. Men's underwear, that is, pants, are also made of black cloth, and the pants are relatively wide, generally 1- 1.2. Adults, especially the elderly, wear a black scarf about 4-5 feet long on their heads, or sew it with a black rectangular cloth, with a crease at the top and a round hole at the top. Usually, people usually walk barefoot, and only when visiting relatives and friends during the Chinese New Year holiday will they wear earth cloth shoes or dragon and phoenix shoes.
Clothing after the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China
During this period, women changed to wear wide Tang-style clothes and trousers, and tied an ankle apron at the front of their waist. The top of the apron is tied with two printed ribbons at the back, and two feet at each end are used as streamers. The strong man changed into a double-breasted Tang suit and wide pants. Wear earth shoes. Men wear Chinese tunic suits and cut western-style heads when reading. The old man wore a black cloth towel on his head.
After 1949, the clothes of urban residents, staff members and students in Zhuang areas kept up with the changes in the whole country, and they generally wore Chinese tunic suit and cadres' clothes, just like the local Han nationality. In recent years, with the development of economy, people can even see Zhuang compatriots' suits and ties in remote mountainous areas, not to mention flowered skirts and dresses. Traditional Zhuang costumes have also quietly changed.
hairstyle
Zhuang men and women have different hairstyles in different historical periods. As can be seen from the rock paintings in Huashan, Guangxi, the early strong men all had their hair cut short. There are several men dancing in the wind with two feathers in their heads in the rock painting. There are several girls with long braids in the picture. One girl has a mountain flower on the tip of her hair. According to ancient records, the hair styles of the ancestors of Zhuang nationality also included shawl hair and inverted spiral vertebral bun. In the Tang dynasty, men were still "showing their hair" (broken hair), and women tied their hair in a bun and inserted it obliquely with three or four-inch bamboo sticks. Vertebral bun was popular in Zhuang area in Song Dynasty. In the Qing dynasty, small towns and people who studied and were officials were forced to wear long braids. But rural men still cut their hair, ignoring the ban of the Qing court. After 1949, women's hair accessories all over the country still maintain certain characteristics. For example, an elderly woman in Longsheng, Guangxi, turns her long hair over her head, spins it, and wraps it with four feet of black cloth. The young woman has long hair on her head, cut it into a shawl around her, turned it over to her forehead, tied it with white cloth and inserted a silver comb. The girl shaved her hair first and put on the silver hat given by her grandmother. When she grows up, she will keep her hair. These hairstyles are obviously the heritage of ancient hair. Swan women also have long hair that is not braided, tied into a wedding bun, or wrapped from left to right after combing, and tied with a headscarf; Unmarried people turn from right to left and wrap them in white printed or jacquard towels. Guinan is different. In some places, girls have long braids and bangs. * * * Then comb double braids; Middle-aged and elderly people hang a bun on their heads. In the past, the hair style of Zhuang women in Lianshan, Guangdong Province was like a dragon, with a big hairpin and blue silk stripes. Most girls in Zhuang area like to keep bangs, and they are used to pulling out their hair with two braided hair, especially when the wedding day is approaching, they always pull out the hair at the back of their necks, revealing a tender and white neck.
silver works
Silver ornaments of Zhuang nationality used to be very popular. According to the "Overview of Counties in Guangxi" compiled in the 22nd year of the Republic of China (1934), Baise "women's ornaments include hair bands, hairpins, rings, bracelets, etc." Grace: "Women decorate, happy ever after in the city, and jade and silver in the country are all over the world." Xilin "Only women like to wear hairpins, earrings, bracelets and shields." The rich use gold and the poor use silver. "Zhuang girls in southeast Guangxi also wear silver hairpin rings." The main types of Zhuang silver ornaments are silver combs, silver pins, earrings, collars, necklaces, breast rows, rings, silver bracelets and anklets. In the era of local officials, women in Anping wore at most four silver collars and a dozen rings (some even pointed to several), which added up to more than a catty. There are as many as nine necklaces and collars of Zhuang women in northern Guangxi, with rectangular chest rows and carved flowers, small chain nails at the lower edge and silver chains around their necks. The silver bracelet of the strong man ... >>
What is the costume of Zhuang nationality? The costumes of the ancestors of Zhuang nationality changed with the development of society. In different historical periods, due to the economic development, clothing has added the color of the times and gradually formed clothing with national and local colors.
In rural areas where Zhuang people live in compact communities, women's clothes are dignified and decent, simple and generous. Blue and black are the same hobbies. I like to wear a long skirt and a short coat, a blue embroidered handkerchief on my head and a slim waist. There are two kinds of coats: double lapels and offset lapels, including collared and collarless. On the blue-black background, the hem and cuffs of the coat like to be inlaid with a colorful lace about one inch wide, showing their unique skills and aesthetic taste. Skirts like to use black, and some wear trousers. There are two flower bands with different patterns at the bottom of women's trousers, one is 5 inches wide and the other is 3 inches wide, which are mostly diamond-shaped continuous patterns. This steady dress exudes youthful enthusiasm, showing the simple beauty of a strong girl.
Zhuang women have the custom of wearing gold and silver. The main accessories for women are silver combs, silver pins, earrings, collars, necklaces, breast rows, rings and silver bracelets. Silver bracelets are rich in styles, some of which are made into thin sheets more than one finger wide, with vines or flowers as decorations; Some are made of rattan, wrapped with twigs and supported by new leaves; Some vines are twined, and some are embedded with green beads. There are many styles of bracelets, which are characterized by exquisiteness and delicacy. Their shapes and patterns are mostly taken from the natural scenery of Zhuangxiang, with strong national style and local color. Girls' bracelets are not only decorations, but also symbols of love. On the blue-black rimmed clothes, there are various forms of silver ornaments. Against the black background, the silver is shining and particularly bright. The charm of human body and the beauty of natural scenery are integrated, and there is artistic brilliance in beauty. Similar decorations can still be seen in remote Zhuang villages with inconvenient transportation. However, Zhuang people living around towns or along transportation lines, both men and women, are completely China-like in their clothing styles and pursue modern fashion.
I am bluffing about the living characteristics, costumes, customs and festivals of the Zhuang nationality, but my family is really nothing special, and it has basically been sinicized. According to the usual practice, almost every family will kill pigs and make dumplings during the Chinese New Year. The more important festivals are March 3, July 14 and September 9, all of which are related to the theory of ghosts and gods.
Yuchanyan, Daoxian County (Cangwu activity area of ancient Zhuang nationality) Zhuang costumes In the central part of ancient Guizhou, the plant fiber weaving pattern used by humans to make pottery "bedding cloth" was discovered 15000 years ago, which is the first hand-made textile created by humans so far. There are three main colors of Zhuang costumes: blue, black and brown. Zhuang women have the habit of planting cotton and spinning. Spinning, weaving and dyeing are cottage industries. The cloth made of self-spun cotton yarn is called "home machine", which is fine, thick, strong and wear-resistant, and then dyed blue, black or brown. Indigo can be dyed blue or cyan, fish pond can be dyed black, and yam can be dyed brown. Zhuang costumes are different. Men's and women's costumes and headdresses for men, women and unmarried women have their own characteristics. Silver ornaments of Zhuang nationality used to be very popular. According to the "Overview of Counties in Guangxi" compiled in the 22nd year of the Republic of China (1934), Baise "women's ornaments include hair bands, hairpins, rings, bracelets, etc." Grace: "Women decorate, happy ever after in the city, and jade and silver in the country are all over the world." Xilin "Only women like to wear hairpins, earrings, bracelets and shields." The rich use gold and the poor use silver. "Unmarried women like to have long hair and bangs (to distinguish whether they are married or not). Usually, they comb the left hair to the right (about 37 minutes) and fix it with a hairpin, or tie a long braid and a colored towel at the end of the braid and fix it on the top of the head at work. Married women comb their hair into a dragon and phoenix bun, gather it into a chicken (phoenix) hip shape from back to front, and insert silver or bone cross hair pins. White handkerchiefs wrapped in green gauze are rarely worn, and most of them use black handkerchiefs or flower handkerchiefs as headscarves. Most of them are middle-aged women who like to wear embroidery to cut their foreheads. In winter, women wear black wool hats, and the fancy of the brim changes with age. Both men and women wear cloth shoes. Middle-aged women love to wear their own cat-ear cloth shoes, commonly known as shoe cats, which are shaped like sandals, ears and heels. They are strung together with a flat gauze belt and tied at will to adjust the tightness. Children's headdress: Children's hats are uncovered hats sewn with embroidered strips of two or three inches wide. The Zhuang customs recorded in ancient books, such as "stepping on the foot" and "covering the forehead", are reproduced on children's hats, which can not only protect their heads, but also play a decorative role. Babies' suspenders are much larger and butterfly-shaped than those of ordinary Han people. The butterfly body is three feet long and two feet four inches wide. It is embroidered with patterns or bagua Gankun pictures, and rarely embroidered with words. The "butterfly wings" on both sides are nine feet long and one foot two inches wide. This sling is called "Lalap". After the founding of People's Republic of China (PRC), the size of this kind of suspenders gradually became smaller, and some suspenders were embroidered with words such as "safe entry and exit" and "happiness" to replace the original patterns.
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The costume history of Zhuang costumes During this period, women changed to wear wide Tang-style trousers with an ankle-length apron at the front of their waist. The top of the apron is tied with two printed ribbons at the back, and two feet at each end are used as streamers. The strong man changed into a double-breasted Tang suit and wide pants. Wear earth shoes. Men wear Chinese tunic suits and cut western-style heads when reading. The old man wore a black cloth towel on his head. After 1949, the clothes of urban residents, staff members and students in Zhuang areas kept up with the changes in the whole country, and they generally wore Chinese tunic suit and cadres' clothes, just like the local Han nationality. With the development of economy, people can even see Zhuang compatriots' suits and ties in remote mountainous areas, not to mention flowered skirts and dresses. Traditional Zhuang costumes have also quietly changed.
Zhuang nationality clothing life habit clothing
Clothing is a composite representation of human material and spiritual needs, that is, the combination of appearance characteristics and psychological aesthetics. Colorful national costumes are the crystallization of the creative wisdom of all ethnic groups, showing the spiritual outlook of all ethnic groups.
Zhuang costumes include two parts: first, clothes, including clothes, trousers, skirts, hats, scarves, gloves, belts, shoes, socks, leggings and so on; One refers to decoration (modification), including hairstyle, jewelry, glasses, backpacks (backpacks), and even tattoos and tattoos. The combination of them into Zhuang costumes is an important part of Zhuang culture. Clothing is the most vivid external image of a nation, which belongs to both material hardware culture and spiritual soft culture. It reflects the economic development level of Zhuang nationality, and shows the ideological concept of Zhuang nationality, that is, spiritual connotation, such as people's customs, philosophical thoughts, aesthetic concepts, moral ethics, social etiquette, religious beliefs and so on. The cultural form of Zhuang costumes includes both economic factors and spiritual features.
Zhuang costumes are related to Guyue people, Ou people, Luoyue people and modern people. Nowadays, ethnologists can only review the history of the emergence, development and evolution of Zhuang ancestors' costumes from some written historical materials. According to the records, there are several bone cones in the Neolithic relics unearthed in Zhupiyan, Guilin. Experts concluded that they were tools for the ancestors of Lingnan Zhuang people to sew hides or draw original fiber coverings, indicating that ancient Zhuang people had original ecological clothing for covering. Later, from Han Dynasty, Three Kingdoms, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Ming and Qing Dynasties to modern times, Zhuang costumes evolved with economic development.
According to experts' monographs, the orange-red fragments of Hui Wen Brocade unearthed from the Han Tomb in Radish Bay in Guigang indicate that the decorations at that time were Zhuang Brocade. There is also a kind of "hole cloth", which is hemp fabric and silk, indicating that as early as the Han Dynasty, the ancient Zhuang people planted hemp and sericulture to provide raw materials for clothing. Bamboo sparse cloth in the Three Kingdoms period, plantain kudzu vine cloth, fine white linen cloth and tube cloth in the Sui and Tang Dynasties were all tributes at that time. In the Yuan Dynasty, cotton was planted and cloth was woven in northern Hebei. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the weaving of Zhuang brocade ornaments reached its peak and was colorful. From the review of expert monographs, we can see the evolution process of Zhuang clothing products from banana fiber, hemp fiber to cotton fiber. The indigo dyeing of Zhuang nationality is famous for its garment printing and dyeing technology. Until now, women in some Zhuang villages still sew black clothes with indigo dyed black cloth. For example, the Zhuang people in Napo, Baise City, the Zhuang people who call themselves "Budai" in Jinlong, Longzhou County, Chongzuo City, and the women in Bunong, daxin county, dressed in black, show their beauty on the stage and become the highlights of Zhuang costumes. After the fabric is dyed, it is coated with horn glue, folded and flattened, and it is shiny. Others are beaten with rice pulp, dried and leveled.
Zhuang population150,000 people, living in Guangxi, distributed in Wenshan, Yunnan and Lianshan, Guangdong. In such a vast region, the economic and cultural development is unbalanced, and the costumes in different regions have their own characteristics, that is, the Zhuang costumes in different regions and different plates constitute a multi-faceted Zhuang costume.
In his monograph "An Introduction to Zhuang Culture", Mr. Liang, a scholar of Zhuang nationality, divided the culture of the vast area where Zhuang people live in compact communities into nine cultural areas: the middle and lower reaches of Hongshui River, Liujiang Longjiang, northwest Guangxi, Guiyue, Yongnian, Yongjiang Youjiang, Zuojiang, Guibian and Wenshan. The investigation, excavation, collection, research and display of Zhuang costume culture can also be carried out with the concept of geography.
Another method is to collect, excavate, arrange and display Zhuang costumes by dividing watersheds, such as Hongshui River Basin, Zuoyou River Basin, Yongjiang River Basin and Yujiang River Basin. Water culture is also closely related to costume culture, such as the custom of frog worship and cultural festivals in Donglan, Bama, Fengshan and Nandan in Hongshui River Basin, and the costumes displayed in the festivals are also rich in national characteristics.
After years of observation, it is found that the Zhuang costumes in Longlin, Xilin, Napo and Jingxi counties in western Guangxi still retain traditional characteristics. Zhuang costumes have strong characteristics, mainly blue and black. The Zhuang women's clothing in Bama County in northwest Guangxi is dominated by blue and white, which is in sharp contrast with the black Zhuang clothing in Napo. It is difficult to find white, yellow or blue in the strong men, women and children on that slope. Men's and women's clothing of Cloth Belt, Longzhou and Jinlong in southwest Guangxi is mainly black. Women wear black dresses, trousers and coats, black scarves and black cloth shoes, all black from head to toe. In addition, people's skin color is white and pure, forming a black-and-white contrast, which complements the unified clothing aesthetics as a whole. Bunong women's dress in Banjia Village, daxin county, southwest Guangxi also has its own characteristics: short coat, ...
The difference between Zhuang ethnic costumes Zhuang advocates black, so both men and women wear black. Women wear black headscarves, black or cyan right-handed tops, and lapels, cuffs and hem are embroidered with lace. He wears wide black trousers, embroidered ribbons on his trouser legs, an apron around his waist, embroidered shoes on holidays, gorgeous brocade bags on his shoulders, and likes to wear silver collars, silver bracelets and other accessories. Men wear black double-breasted cloth-buttoned jackets, or copper-buttoned large-breasted jackets with belts. Wide Chinese trousers are knee-length, with leggings, sandals or cloth shoes, and a black cloth cap. Men of Zhuang nationality in southern Guangxi wear collarless pipa armour, trousers and double-hooked duck-billed shoes, and their clothes and trousers are edged. Zhuang men have the custom of tattooing and Zhuang women have the custom of dyeing their teeth. Zhuang brocade with beautiful patterns is very famous, and its patterns are natural and geometric. Natural patterns include birds, animals, insects, fish, dragons, phoenixes, flowers and plants, mountains and rivers, etc. Geometric patterns include diamond patterns, palindromes, Wan Ziwen, water ripples, etc. These images are simple and harmonious. Zhuang brocade is generally used for women's daily necessities such as headscarves, pleated skirts, waist, embroidered shoes, quilts and bags. Zhuang men often wear double-breasted shirts with buttons tied tightly with cloth. Sew a small pocket on the chest to match the two large pockets on the abdomen, and fold the hem inward into a wide edge; Pants are short and wide, and some are leggings; A headscarf with embroidered patterns. Women wear navy blue or dark blue short collar and right-handed blouse, and the collar, cuffs and lapels are embroidered with colored lace; Wearing baggy black pants. There is also a black pleated skirt with colorful embroidery on it and colorful cloth stickers below. Wearing a cloth patch, embroidered waist, and wearing a black headscarf embroidered with patterns. Wear embroidered shoes and embroidered shoulder pads during festivals or fairs. Women's hairstyles vary from place to place. Zhuang people's clothing is generally made of their own woven homespun.
What are the clothes of Zhuang nationality called? There are three main colors of Zhuang costumes: blue, black and brown. Zhuang women have the habit of planting cotton and spinning. Spinning, weaving and dyeing are cottage industries. The cloth made of self-produced and sold cotton yarn is called "home machine", which is thick and wearable, and then dyed blue, black or brown. Indigo can be dyed blue or cyan, fish ponds can be dyed black, and yam can be dyed brown. Zhuang costumes are different. Men's and women's costumes and headdresses for men, women and unmarried women have their own characteristics.
Men's and women's wear
There are two kinds of men's wear: right lapel and double lapel. The right lapel shirt has no collar, and the button is opened from the right armpit to the waist and turned to the center, and then opened three or four inches. The lapel is inlaid with colorful cloth edges more than one inch wide, fastened with copper buttons and tied with long belts; A tight shirt with an open chest, only the length of the navel, is worn at work. Women's wear has a collarless right lapel, but the sleeves are larger than men's, nearly feet wide and knee-wide, with welts, and the edges are wide and thin, usually more than two or three. The cloth on the inside of the shoulder is opposite to the outside, and three lines are sewn, which is called "reverse shirt". The buttons of men's and women's shirts are brass buttons or Bunyo. Men's and women's trousers are basically the same in style, with hem, commonly known as "bull's head trousers". Married women have a lace Chinese-style chest covering, and a spiky tube is hung on the left side of the waist trousers, which is connected with the key and makes a "noisy" sound when walking. Men's robes are used to wearing robes and wearing a short coat outside, commonly known as "robe plus coat". At first, they wore a round hat. Later, they wore a hat. In modern times, Zhuang people's clothing styles have been basically modernized, but the older generation still generally wear blue and black.
Strange headdress
Unmarried women like long hair and bangs (to distinguish whether they are married or not). Usually, they comb the left hair to the right (about 37 minutes) and fix it with a hairpin, or tie a long braid and a colored towel at the end of the braid and fix it on the top of the head at work. Married women comb their hair into a dragon and phoenix bun, gather it into a chicken (phoenix) hip shape from back to front, and insert silver or bone cross hair pins. Nowadays, people who rarely wear green gauze white handkerchiefs mostly use black handkerchiefs or flowered handkerchiefs. Most of them are middle-aged women and like to embroider their foreheads. In winter, women wear black wool hats, and the fancy of the brim changes with age. Both men and women wear cloth shoes. Middle-aged women love to wear their own cat-ear cloth shoes, commonly known as shoe cats, which are shaped like sandals, ears and heels. They are strung together with a flat gauze belt and tied at will to adjust the tightness. Children's headdress: Children's hats are uncovered hats sewn with embroidered strips of two or three inches wide. The Zhuang customs recorded in ancient books, such as "stepping on the foot" and "covering the forehead", are reproduced on children's hats, which can not only protect their heads, but also play a decorative role. Babies' suspenders are much larger and butterfly-shaped than those of ordinary Han people. The butterfly body is three feet long and two feet four inches wide. It is embroidered with patterns or bagua Gankun pictures, and rarely embroidered with words. The "butterfly wings" on both sides are nine feet long and one foot two inches wide. This kind of strap is called "pull". After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the size of this kind of suspenders gradually became smaller, and some suspenders were called "wax" in strong words. After the founding of People's Republic of China (PRC), the size of this kind of suspenders gradually became smaller, and some suspenders were embroidered with words such as "safe entry and exit" and "happiness" to replace the original patterns.
Both men and women wear cloth shoes. Middle-aged women love to wear their own cat-ear cloth shoes, commonly known as shoe cats, which are shaped like sandals, ears and heels. They are strung together with a flat gauze belt and tied at will to adjust the tightness.
What are the characteristics of Zhuang costumes? National beauty and classical beauty, but also with unspeakable taste.