Sun from College of Literature, Shaanxi University of Science and Technology published a paper on 20 15, which mainly studied the relationship between New Year's Eve poetry and food culture in Song Dynasty. The following are some excerpts to share with you.
Dream of Tokyo, written by Meng Yuanlao in Northern Song Dynasty for more than 20 years, vividly describes the details of understanding the prosperity and luxury of Tokyo city and the life of citizens in the late Northern Song Dynasty. The preface says that "the treasures of the four seas belong to the city; I noticed the smell around Huihuan in the kitchen. " The general idea is that at that time, in the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty, there were all kinds of ingredients of delicacies and delicacies, and the chefs who could cook all kinds of dishes were also skilled and could let you have a taste. So this book was renamed by the current "gourmets" and called "Eating in Kaifeng".
The custom of New Year's Eve dinner in Song Dynasty was much more grand and warm than it is now. Eating is no exception. According to Mr. Cai Zhenchu's statistics in the book "A Study of Song Ci Culture", "There are 3 1 words in Song Ci, including more than 20 New Year's Eve words". Two-thirds of them are talking about eating, and my country of eating goods really deserves its reputation. So, what are the "special diets" on New Year's Eve in the Song Dynasty?
Pan Xin 1
The so-called "spicy food" refers to spicy food, which was recorded as early as the Warring States period. Pan Xin, also known as "Five Pan Xin". There is a record of "five incentives" in the Chronicle of Jingchu Age in Liang Zonggu of the Southern Dynasties:
The first day of the first month is the day of three yuan. So young and old, knowing their clothes, pay homage to each other, drink pepper and cypress wine, drink peach soup, drink Tu Su wine, stick their teeth, put five spicy dishes, apply powder, eat ghost pills, and take an egg each.
The five spices here refer to garlic, garlic, leek, Yuntai and coriander, which are mixed and eaten, meaning to say goodbye to the old and welcome the new, and are called five coriander.
2, supper fruit
The word "snack fruit" first appeared in the Southern Song Dynasty and appeared in the works of poets in the Southern Song Dynasty many times. For example, Yong Xue's "Jade Case"? Shousui. " Word cloud:
A plate of Jiangnan fruit for supper. Eat fruit and read, just sit still. Bitter plum blossoms take care of me. A year's troubles and half a year's imprisonment are all tonight.
This body is a mountain. It's a pity to come out of the mountain. Hand-planted pine is bigger. It's next year that I'll go home with my piano.
According to the legend of Wulin, there were fine products, seasonal fruits, candied fruit, sugar fried, ten sugars, fine sand dumplings, jujube cakes, candied abalone, shortcakes, sugar fried chestnuts, ginkgo and other market foods in the Song Dynasty.
-It's all high-calorie sweets! The ancients were not afraid of being fat after dinner. What are we afraid of? Let's go, foodies!
3. Pepper and cypress wine
Pepper and cypress wine is the collective name of pepper wine and cypress wine, which mainly refers to pepper wine, that is, wine soaked with pepper. Because wine is also called pulp, it is called pepper pulp. In ancient times, it was often used to offer sacrifices to ancestors or parents to express birthday and congratulations. Li Chuquan's Nanxiangzi? Except to do it again at night. Word cloud:
Be kind and be a spring girl. It's very cold today. Time flies, people are getting old, and China is jumping. Fear lasts longer and never sleeps. Save things and reflect peppers. White jade boat with fragrant liquor. I urge everyone to bless each other. I hope this year is better than last year.
This word is Li Chuquan's work on New Year's Eve, in which "saving things reflects pepper dishes". The "white wine boat" shows that it is a common custom to drink Chili and cypress wine on New Year's Eve.
4. Tu Su wine
On New Year's Eve, besides drinking pepper and cypress wine, there is also the custom of drinking Tu Su wine. Song Chen Yuanliang's "Guang Ji at the Age of Years" quoted five clouds from "Li at the Age of Years";
As the saying goes, those who slaughter the Soviet Union are also called grass temples. Once upon a time, there was a hermit. Every New Year's Eve, he left a medicine note in it and let the capsule soak in the well. On January Day, he put the water in a bottle and drank it for the whole family to avoid catching the plague. Today, people have a good prescription, but they don't know their name, but it is called Tu Su.
In ancient times, people had the custom of drinking Tu Su wine at the end of the year, not only to make the wine happy, but also to ward off evil spirits and prevent diseases. Due to the limited medical conditions at that time, people were afraid of the plague, so the custom of drinking Tu Su wine spread rapidly.
Diet and culture
Since ancient times, people have not only stayed in the increase of variety and quality, but also started to pursue spiritual enjoyment outside of diet. "This kind of spiritual enjoyment means that diet has been endowed with aesthetics, humanities, philosophy, moral cultivation and other connotations.
The various diets mentioned above, that is, cellar liquor has the meaning of prolonging life and celebrating birthdays, while Tu Su liquor has the meaning of praying for treatment, offering fruit to the Six Gods and praying for blessings. It reflects the deep cultural connotation of diet in Song Dynasty's New Year's greetings.
The New Year's Eve dinner reflects Song's psychology of loving life, believing in ancestors and longing for a better life. At the same time, the eating activities on New Year's Eve also provide a good stage for emotional communication between family members or friends, which enhances feelings. This is also the cultural accumulation of the working people in China.