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The use of bian xiu
Henan Kaifeng embroidery. Bianxiu was named after Bianjing (now Kaifeng), the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty. Known as a "national treasure", it inherited the theme and technological characteristics of Song embroidery, borrowed the advantages of sister embroidery such as Su embroidery and Xiang embroidery, absorbed the local flavor of Henan folk embroidery, and innovated a lot of stitches on this basis. He is not only good at flowers, birds, insects, fish, birds and beasts, but also good at landscape painting, depicting characters carefully and vividly. Embroidery not only has the elegant and lively style of Suzhou embroidery, but also has the characteristics of Hunan embroidery, thus forming the characteristics of "border embroidery", which is exquisite in color, simple and elegant, distinct in layers and vivid in image. "A Dream of China in Tokyo" calls it "splendid beyond the golden jade".

Representative works include Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival, Hundred Horses Scene, Five Cows Scene, Han Xizai's Night Banquet Scene, and Zanhua's Ladies Scene.

During the Northern Song Dynasty, with the great development of commodity economy, embroidery became an important industry in handicraft industry. At that time, the embroidery industry, like other handicrafts, was divided into two categories: government-run and private. The famous silk weaving and embroidery industries in handicraft industry are under the supervision of the government.

It was the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, when the world was settled and everything was thriving. After Shu was pacified, there were 200 brocade workers. Ming Taizu gande five years (967), set up Jin Ling Academy in Tokyo, the capital, to arrange their production. Later, some workers from Zhejiang, Sichuan and Huzhou joined the brocade factory. These excellent craftsmen from the famous silk industry developed areas in ancient China gathered in the capital, which made the official silk industry in Tokyo even more powerful. The scale of Jin Ling Academy is constantly expanding, and the number of craftsmen is also increasing. By the end of Emperor Taizong and the beginning of Emperor Zhenzong, it had developed into a handicraft workshop. There are many experts in Jin Ling Academy, whose products are exclusively for royalty, aristocrats and bureaucrats, and can also be used for military consumption and 20-year-old gifts. Because of this, the Supreme Ruler of the Northern Song Dynasty attached great importance to the production of Jin Ling Academy, and Emperor Taizong personally went to Jin Ling Academy to "order the ministers to see the loom from the weaving room".

Kaifeng, the capital, has a powerful and large-scale government-run textile printing and dyeing industry. In the early Song Dynasty, the official tailor's institute was located in Lihong Square, and then moved to Yankang Square. The tailor's "Song Hui Zhi Guan" contains: "Handmade clothes for the country. At the beginning: there is a tailor sewing and needle-making service in Zuocang. " Embroidery, but lacking official work, is often sought after by the people. The Wenxiu Academy, which came into being at the historic moment, is even more important in the history of embroidery in the Song Dynasty. Wenxiu Academy became the last representative of the official embroidery industry, carrying people into history.

"The Birth of Wenxiu Academy" is contained in Wenxiu Academy of Medicine (298):

Changning three years (1 104) "Zhang Kang, the small supervisor of Kao Tang, said: Now the imperial court has its own embroidery rules for guests to sacrifice, but there are no embroidery workers, and every creation is entrusted to the women in the alley or the temple of Fu Zhini, which is cost-effective. To exercise knitting and sewing, everyone has his own school, and each school has its own job, but embroidery is the only one. I want to buy an embroidery school and recruit 300 people. I still choose good embroiderers in various ways, thinking that I am a teacher and I will be excellent and rewarded.

In the fourth year of Suining (1 105), a "university" specializing in embroidery was born in Kaifeng city. The establishment of Wenxiu Academy is a colorful stroke and an indispensable stroke in the history of embroidery! If all rivers run into the sea, all roads will hire good embroidery craftsmen to teach in Wenxiu Academy, which will undoubtedly make the national embroidery technology have been greatly exchanged and integrated. The establishment of Wenxiu Academy marks that embroidery in Song Dynasty reached a new level. Looking back on that year, 300 embroidered mothers gathered in Beijing to learn skills together. With a turn of their fingers, the dragon and phoenix danced and the embroidery thread was long and magnificent. How spectacular and colorful.

During the reign of Hui Zong, an embroidery expert was established to divide embroidery into landscapes, pavilions, figures, flowers and birds, so many famous embroideries appeared.

Embroidery in Song Dynasty has made new development on the basis of court embroidery and daily embroidery in Tang Dynasty. Embroidery is produced all over Henan, Sichuan, Hunan, Hubei, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Guangdong and other places. Kaifeng embroidery embodies the highest level of palace embroidery.

Let's enjoy a Song Dynasty embroidery now in Liaoning Museum.

The original embroidery of "Meizhu Parrot Map" in Song Dynasty was 27.7 cm high and 38.3 cm wide. It is based on the meticulous flower-and-bird painting described by Song people. Whose handwriting is this? The orange silk bottom is embroidered with crimson plum branches, which are beautiful and straight. Plum blossom has four forms, one is in bud, the other is in full bloom, and the other is full of flowers, and the next petal is about to break. Plum blossoms stand proudly among bamboo leaves, and they are clear and poetic. A colorful nautilus congee, with its head turned, peeped down and stood on the branch, with plum and bamboo competing in the air. The natural and vivid embroidery of the picture consists of two-color needle embroidery, coarse needle, pendulum needle, plain needle and seed embroidery. The dazzling stitch of Song embroidery shows the effect of portrait. Embroidery includes Qianlong Appreciation, Jiaqing Yubao, Shouhua Guanbao, Sanxitang Seal, Jishan Dangbao and other 1l Qing Dynasty seals, which further shows the preciousness of this Song embroidery.

Which master Dan Qing left the picture of the bamboo parrot? This embroidery was made by a magical embroiderer? This may be the mystery of the ages, but the unique charm of Song embroidery has been amazing ... The Ming Dynasty Tu Long's "After Examining Shares" made an incisive annotation on "Song Embroidered Painting": "Song Boudoir embroidered painting, landscape figures, balcony flowers and birds, fine needle and thread, no exposed seam, with a little silk and a needle as thin as hair, so the eyebrows are perfect and the velvet color is dazzling." The cleverness of needlework is beyond the reach of a thousand fingers of the spring breeze. "

"Splendid and colorful" Song embroidery is full of people's wisdom, showing a heavy traditional cultural color and the heroism of a historic city.

Embroidery is like a brilliant mountain flower, which thrives on the land where it was born and grew up. Her roots are in the folk, branches are in the streets, and flowers bloom in the hearts of countless beautiful embroidered mothers. In the Song Dynasty, Kyoto opened in Kaifeng, and the flowers of embroidery can be said to have bloomed all over the city. How many professional embroidery talents have emerged in the ancient capital with outstanding people-"people embroidery households"

In the five-year period (10 12), it was stipulated that "from now on, people's embroidery workers will be paid to make embroidery ...", which shows that military academies in the early Song Dynasty have begun to recruit people's embroidery workers.

Before the establishment of professional embroidery institutions, from the Song Dynasty to the imperial court, from "borrowing scenery to serve the royal family" to "embroidering for guests' sacrifice", people in the city and buddhist nun were entrusted to embroider to meet the embroidery needs of clothes and palace objects. It can also be seen that the folk embroidery industry in Tokyo is developed and the level of embroidery is also very high. Folk embroidery workers and Zhu Ni Temple embroidery workers became the two main forces of folk embroidery in the Northern Song Dynasty.

The third volume of Dream of China in Tokyo, Streets and Alleys of Temple East Gate, records that there is an embroidery lane outside the east gate of Suoguo Temple, which is a professional embroidery area. "Shi Jing weaving silks and women's jewelry and clothes, all prepared at four o' clock. There are spring flags, lights, competitions, Ai Hu, clouds and the moon. The flowers are peach, apricot, lotus and plum blossom, which are combined into one scene, which is called "one scene a year".

At that time, embroidery was widely used in Kaifeng. Tiger hat, tiger shoes, pants, curtains, embroidered pillows, flower towels ... The famous brands and watches of 72 large salons and thousands of small hotels in the city are also embroidered. For example, Alum Building in a big restaurant is "three stories high, five stories opposite, each with cornices and bridge sills, light and shadow connected, beaded curtains embroidered and lighted by candles". There is also a "market hotel, with colorful buildings facing each other, embroidered flags fluttering and covering the sky." Even "deep streets, embroidered bead curtains, skillfully made new clothes, boasted gorgeous", in the city, "splendid clothes don't always end, new clothes are worn for a while, and the music is wonderful."

After the founding of New China, in the spring of 1955, Kaifeng's first embroidery organization "Kaifeng Machine Embroidery Cooperation and Mutual Aid Group" was born, which is the beginning of Kaifeng Border Embroidery today. From 65438 to 0956, "Machine Embroidery Cooperation and Mutual Aid Group" developed into "Kaifeng Machine Embroidery Production Cooperative". 1958, Kaifeng zhixiu was officially named "Bianxiu". They are digging, collecting, sorting and studying Kaifeng Bianxiu. Collect embroidered shoes and clothing pieces handed down from the people, discover and summarize the skills in historical works, constantly improve the sewing skills of edge embroidery, and raise edge embroidery to a new stage.

From 65438 to 0959, the long scroll The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival entered the Henan Hall of the Great Hall of the People, and Bian Xiu became famous in one fell swoop. Famous historical paintings are vividly reproduced in embroidery. Since then, traditional landscapes, paintings by Song people and ink and flower-and-bird paintings by Kaifeng folk artists have gradually entered the elegant hall of edge show. 1962, border embroidery went abroad. 1963, border embroidery pioneered the export of embroidery in Henan province. In 1990s, border embroidery became diversified, among which portrait embroidery once again let border embroidery go out of China and go to the world.

1992, the successful development of Brunei King Embroidery is a breakthrough in hand embroidery technology in our province. The innovation of stitch and the technical achievements of large portrait embroidery have filled a gap in Henan Province. 1994, Comrade Deng Xiaoping embroidered in Xiu Xiang, which is Xiu Xiang, the biggest figure in China at present, and a breakthrough in embroidery technology.

It is an outstanding pioneering work of embroidery technology to introduce western painting into the territory of traditional embroidery in China. It is a new embroidery technique and the most difficult skill to master in embroidery to color the edge embroidery with online colors. And a new method of expressing light and shadow effect came into being, which broke the routine and disorderly needling in oil painting and made the subtle relationship in light and shadow color effect very realistic. It is the fusion of two cultures, two civilizations and two ideological systems, and the perfect combination of two different ways of observation and expression.

Editing is not so much a work of needle and thread as a crystallization of the wisdom and perseverance of the editors, and it is a treasure of art.