The houses in Harmony Village are all made of logs, full of primitive flavor. A local received us and took us to a small room. After we wash up, it's time for lunch. When ordering food in a restaurant, of course, mutton skewers are indispensable. When it comes to mutton kebabs that are crispy outside and tender inside, people are full of praise. After eating a bite of mutton string, it is not difficult to think of this beautiful place in Xinjiang. Just as I was eating with relish, I suddenly heard beautiful music outside the hospital. I asked the young man sitting next to me what the name of this song was. He said, "the dark horse goes." I stood up and looked out the window. I saw a big boy in his twenties and a little boy who looked like a three-year-old dancing to the rhythm. I stood by and was moved by this scene. A three-year-old child danced cutely, and Tuwa people were good at singing and dancing, which shocked the onlookers.
The morning in Bayinbuluke grassland is quiet: there is no noise of chariots and horses, no roar of machines, no roar of cattle to Ma Si, no singing of birds and insects, and even no sound of lambs grazing and ruminating. Harmony, a small village deep in the mountains, is full of sounds. At the foot of the mountain, the grass cow growled at Ma Si, the jungle in the mountain was covered with pine trees, and birds were singing in the sky overhead. And thousands of sounds in nature, like an impenetrable sound barrier and a huge black hole, all unnatural sounds are excluded or absorbed, which makes people feel that it is a different kind of silence.
There are no tourists and no buzz, but this midsummer season is also the busiest time in the small mountain village, but here, no matter how noisy the tourists are, they are swallowed up by the sound of nature. People are silent one by one, like crawling ants. Occasionally, villagers' cars and motorcycles pass by, just like the small wooden blocks on the track of the physics laboratory, doing the friction coefficient test silently. All the noises in the world are drowned by the sounds of nature, and even the nature itself has disappeared-the Harmony River has been rolling, but you don't feel disturbed by the sound of water; There were pines on the hillside, but you didn't know the noise of the wind.
Although it is midsummer, the harmonious night is already very cold, which adds to the silence at night. Close the doors and windows of the inn, completely cut off from the outside world, and the world will be silent and inexplicable. If the half moon outside the window doesn't stick its head out from the top of the wooden house and stare at you, I really doubt that I have flown into space and to the moon. The harmonious night sky is as wet as clear water; The moon, like the white jade of Hetian sheep fat, must be planted in the old pit, with clear outline, thick and bright, without any dust.
In the morning, the harmonious flat fog landscape is the most beautiful at sunrise. However, I am not so lucky. I only saw the clouds transpiration and overwhelming, but I never waited until the sun came out. I did see the flat fog, which floated silently from the distant hillside, covered the grass with flowers in full bloom, filled the slender birch forest, stroked my cheek and filled my whole body, and slowly flowed over the pointed roof of the cabin and over the hillside of another pine tree and spruce-quiet, gentle, soft and cool, like a dream with a veil, like a soul holding silk.
Fog falls outside the castle peak.
Yun Qi Baihuajing
How many customers are crazy?
Scattered all over the sky
-"Waiting for Sunrise"
In the evening, the sun slowly sinks into the shoulder of the opposite snow-capped mountain, and the golden afterglow of the forest on the hillside behind it fades little by little. The quietly flowing river draws winding thin lines on the grass, and the snow on the top of the mountain in the distance wipes the last bright color on the river with its reflection. There are some cows grazing lazily by the river, and there is no one over the playground surrounded by wooden fences. A lone basketball stand stands quietly in the breeze, and several white sheep hover below. The villagers are busy eating dinner at home, the horses have returned to the circle, and the children are playing on the grass in front of the house. I can't miss this beautiful artistic conception. My daughter took my arm and walked to the river. When she was walking, she suddenly saw a little boy dancing. He is playing with a big white dog. They continued to play on the grass. I greeted him in a friendly way: "Hello!" He nodded knowingly. I said, "Can you take a picture with me as a souvenir?" He obediently ran to my side. I stroked his head and recorded this wonderful moment. Everything in Harmony Village is proceeding in an orderly way in peace and tranquility. Not in a hurry. A quiet mountain village, harmony is still a beautiful dream.
Regret? Really! When I set foot on the foggy way home, I made a farewell cabin. When pine and birch smoke, they are silent, just as they greet us quietly. I left quietly, just as I came quietly. I waved my sleeves and didn't take away a cloud. Accompanied by the cheerful songs of the birds in the cabin, I gently pushed open the door of the cabin, and the faint fragrance of flowers floated all the way, which was refreshing. It turned out that the owner of the wooden house planted a beautiful sea of flowers in front of the door. When he reached the village road, he saw wooden houses lined up neatly on both sides of the road. The names of these wooden houses are very interesting, some are called "warm home" and some are called "traveler tribe". The decoration of each courtyard is unique.
Early adults discussed that they must go to the distant observation deck to enjoy the harmonious and charming morning scenery. After the discussion, everyone went back to the house, packed their equipment and set off together. They sang and laughed all the way, boarded the observation deck and looked down, and finally saw the fairyland-like scenery. At this time, Harmony Village is like a beautiful big oil painting against the background of smoke. In a short time, the sun father-in-law climbed up from the east side of the mountain, and the golden sunshine sprinkled on the quiet harmonious village, just like covering the small village with a layer of golden gauze, and the cabin with a spire looked more beautiful. At this time, I finally understood why it was called "God's private plot". After Rainbow Beach, the scenery is getting better and better, full of autumn colors. As the saying goes, "Autumn enters Yunshan, which is heartless and natural. All kinds of scenery are comparable to pictures. Feng Dan stays in Qingyun, and the yellow flowers are under the secluded rocks "(Song? Zhang Wei's "Walking on the Sand"). Stop and go all the way, look left and enjoy right, endless beauty is pleasing to the eye. "Trees are all autumn, and mountains only have light. Shepherds drive calves back, and hunting horses brings birds back "(Tang? Wang Ji "Wild Hope").
At 6 o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived in Brzin, changed to the scenic bus at the interval transfer station, and then headed for Harmony Village. All the way is another scene, with rolling mountains and yellow autumn grass, but it looks like a velvet carpet from a distance. There are not many trees along the road, either in clusters or rows, and each has its own characteristics. Occasionally, there will be several wooden houses and tall haystacks surrounded by wooden fences. Occasionally, I can see cows pacing leisurely on the grass, just like the pastoral scenery illustrations depicted in ancient books, which are both simple and warm, as if they were far away and familiar. Drive for about 40 minutes, then turn into a pass and arrive at Harmony Village. The village is not very big, and the whole village is basically wooden houses, arranged in an orderly way. The wooden house has no masonry, but is made of logs with skins and a "human" roof on it. It is said that this is the typical residence of the local Tuwa people, known as the "Muleng House", which is very primitive, rough and distinctive. There don't seem to be many tourists here, so the village is very quiet.
At this time, the sun has not set, and the sky is still very bright. We put down our luggage and soon came to a hill in the north of the village along the road. There are lush trees all over the mountains, among which there are many graceful birch trees with yellow leaves, which add a lot of softness to the desolate hills. Walking in such an environment, you will feel comfortable involuntarily. Standing on the hill, you can see the whole village from north to south. This is a village located in a "basin", surrounded by hills covered with dense forests. It seems that only when you come can you communicate with the outside world. There are two roads in the village, which divide the whole village house into three strip-shaped areas, which are very neat and flat. There are several trees with golden leaves in the middle of the village, which stand out from the crowd. On the west is a north-south river called Harmony River.
Although it is not as bright as the Peach Blossom Garden in Tao Qian (there is no peach blossom at this time) or as mysterious as Qu You's Hidden Records on the Roof, it also has its unique beauty. Especially in the evening when the sun is setting and the smoke is curling, it suddenly reminds me of the kind of artistic conception described in ancient poems: "It is warm and far away, and there is smoke in the Yi Yi market. Dogs bark in deep lanes, chickens crow and mulberry trees jump "(gold? Tao Yuanming's "Returning to the Pastoral Residence"), "The sunset in the lonely village, the light smoke of the old tree in West Western jackdaw, the shadow flies a little. Green mountains and green waters, white grass, red leaves and yellow flowers "(Yuan? Bai Pu's "Clear Sand? Autumn ")," The rustling trees are far from the forest, and the autumn mountains are half sunset "(Song? Kou Zhun's "Shujiang Pavilion Wall") ... The poems in front of him and the paintings in them are memorable and fascinating. Wang Wei, a great poet in the Tang Dynasty, once wrote such a poem: "The mountains are cold and blue, and the autumn water gurgles every day. At the door of my thatched cottage, leaning on my cane, I listened to the cicadas singing in the evening breeze. Sunset set at the ferry, and midnight snack smoke floated out of the house. Oh, when will I make a wish to the great hermit again and sing a wild poem under five willows? " (Ying Chuan lived in seclusion, presented to Emperor Pei Xiucai) How the description in the poem fits with the situation at this time. If it weren't for the development of tourism, it would be an excellent place for the ancients to live in seclusion. From a commanding position, you can clearly see everything below the mountain. At the foot is an east-west hillside, which is also a viewing platform (with a wooden plank road). Here, you can overlook the unique "wooden house" in the "basin" and Mu Village from west to east, and the unevenness is unique.
The dense trees around the village are red, yellow, white and green, which are colorful, just like a colored forest fence. The village is surrounded inside, just like a "sand table"; At the foot of the mountain where we stand, there is a quietly flowing river with blue light and cold transpiration. As the day dawned, the grass under my feet was covered with a layer of crystal-clear and dignified frost flowers, showing endless dreamy chill. At this time, the wooden house at the foot of the mountain is far or near, and the smoke from the kitchen is curling up, spreading and full of warm country atmosphere. I don't know when, a faint morning mist rises quietly from the pass of Beishan Mountain. "The smoke flies a little heavier, but the rain is light" (Tang? Li Qiao's "Fog"), some are like veils, flying sheep, some are like the sleeves of the Nine-Day Fairy dancing, and some are like a group of leisurely white horses on the wasteland, moving slowly from north to south, dancing, and the fluttering mist gradually enveloped the whole village, high or low, thick or light, and the morning fog and kitchen smoke intertwined, making the quiet mountain village hazy. Occasionally, a few dogs bark and a few chickens crow, showing a unique tranquility, peace and truth. As mentioned in the ancient poem. "The moon sets and the cold fog rises, and Shen Sihao crosses Sichuan. Birds are singing and trees are scattered, and mountains are pale. Desert sand is on the road, in the fields. Jude should rely on the distant tree, and intermittently want to be poor "(Tang? Li Yi's "Water Pavilion with Mist at Night"); "Suspected drizzle from the wind, reflecting sunlight like floating dust. At first glance, it disappears, as good as new color "(Southern Dynasties? Xiao Ze's Ode to Fog) ... Small mountain village, faint morning fog, poetic feelings, picturesque artistic conception.
……
There is a warm morning light behind the opposite mountain. Through the refraction of mountains, the hilltops, treetops, villages in the morning fog and the roads down the mountain are gradually illuminated. While enjoying the autumn colors in the frosty morning, people talked about their harvest and began to slowly descend the mountain. Coming to the Harmony River at the foot of the mountain, the scenery here evokes people's charm: the blue river is full of waves in the cobblestone riverbed, and the tall trees on the river bank are covered with gold; There is also a tributary by the river that winds through the birch forest and through the stone arch bridge. Red leaves fall and gold leaves spread. The romantic combination of red, yellow, blue and green highlights the intoxicating autumn colors in the morning light. There are still some cows drinking water by the river. The whole situation is like a colorful oil painting. You can't help but stop and forget to return. ...