Maybe it's because I'm old and often fall into memories of the old days. I 1965 to 1979 was born and raised in Yangquan City, Shanxi Province. Guang Chen has no worries, no worries, no need to be wary, no fear, only poverty and happiness! Memories of mountains, water, naive playmates and naughty events often flash in front of us clearly.
What I miss is the memories of the poor years' food! It's really delicious, although it's mostly coarse grains, but there are many kinds. Adults always try their best to satisfy our appetite. The years are hard and bumpy!
First, third (Yinsa)
Naan may be a kind of food in northern China for a long time. Liu Xiang in the Han Dynasty wrote in "Miscellaneous Words in Shuo Yuan": "If you don't eat for seven days, it's not a shame." But there are different legends and practices about the history of Nao.
1, Linyi III
The third is the most representative traditional snack in Linyi, which is a salty, spicy, sour and chicken-flavored chicken breast porridge. According to legend, when Emperor Qianlong went down to the south of the Yangtze River, he passed by Linyi for breakfast and wanted to taste the local famous food, so local officials presented this porridge. Gan Long tasted it and found it delicious. He casually asked, "What is this?" The official didn't hear clearly and replied, "What?" Ganlong sounds like "three" So this porridge is called "San".
2. Yizhou powder
Shanxi Yizhou San actually originated from Linyi San. According to the Records of Linyi County, Yizhou San was created by Jiang family in Linyi and has evolved several times. The main raw materials are beef bones, beef, wheat, rice and flour, as well as onions, ginger, salt, soy sauce, pepper, monosodium glutamate, five-spice powder, sesame oil and mature vinegar. The craft is fine and complicated, and now it has become the daily breakfast of Xinzhou people. 20 15, Yu made a special trip to visit primary school teachers in Jingle County, Xinzhou City. Unfortunately, he came and went in a hurry. He only drank wine with his teacher for one night and returned to Beijing, but he didn't get any products. What a pity!
3. Yangquan powder
In fact, there are naan in all parts of Shanxi, but the practice is different. I grew up in Yangquan, a beautiful mountain city. But in my memory, there is no chicken or beef in the daily food, only millet and corn flour (corn flour), and each of us can cook it! I remember Yangquan people at that time, breakfast was scattered all year round! The raw materials are very simple, but the practice is very particular: first boil the water, then add millet and alkaline noodles to cook porridge, and when the porridge is thin, sprinkle golden phoenix head noodles, and then simmer slowly, and the naan will be ready, and the room will smell fragrant!
You must eat naan with sauerkraut. Shanxi people like to eat sauerkraut, especially in Yanbei and Yangquan! At that time, every winter, every family had to buy wild vegetables and mustard cherries from the vegetable station to pickle sauerkraut, and every family had several jars to reserve, so the whole winter meal depended on it! But we still have to scrimp and save. We usually put a pinch of pickled cabbage with ice ballast in the center of a blue sea bowl full of naan, circle it with chopsticks, and eat it with light naan and light pickled cabbage. Only in this way can we ensure that the dishes are always at the end and always have a taste!
Second, press music and harmony.
Nowadays, according to the introduction of tourism publications, Yangquan's food business card is gone with the wind, which is small. It is said that it has been popular in Yangquan since the Ming Dynasty. Unfortunately, however, it is not in my memory! Not only do I not remember eating it, but I haven't even heard its name when I grow up. The food I remember was squeezed.
Traditional oat noodle is a special food in Yuxian county under the jurisdiction of Yangquan city, and it is made of oat noodle. But in my memory, what I ate most in Yangquan was sorghum noodles. At that time, the supply of materials was quite poor, with little white flour and quite a lot of coarse grains. In my impression, for several years, sorghum rice and sorghum noodles shipped from the northeast have always been matched in the mine. Sorghum rice is used to cook porridge, while sorghum noodles are mostly used to make music.
There must be an easy bed, which is usually borrowed by my sister from her neighbor Hill's house. This is a bench with a round hole in the middle. There is a steel sheet at the bottom of the hole with even holes on it, and a pressing rod is connected to the top of the bed. Use lever principle to press the bed. Sister kneaded the sorghum dough with warm water and put it in the round hole. My brother and I helped to press the pressure bar, and the mallet connected to the pressure bar pressed down toward the dough. Filamentous music and music constantly fall on the mantel under the bed of music and music.
To make sorghum noodles, it is generally necessary to mix a little corn flour and elm bark powder. Mix corn flour to increase workability, while elm bark powder can make the surface of noodles smooth and refreshing. When you eat Lehe, you must have a lot of seeds of shame. This is a fresh soup with fragrance: it is made from shredded onion, Jiang Mo, soy sauce, aged vinegar, pepper, salt, sesame oil and other seasonings, potatoes and diced carrots, poured on Lehe, supplemented by hot original soup and green parsley.
However, although sorghum noodles are resistant to hunger, they are extremely difficult to digest. I feel full after eating, but I am quite embarrassed to go to the toilet! Besides, in my memory, leftovers are cold and more delicious. My sister usually uses chopped green onion to stir-fry and then pours it with aged vinegar and pickled cabbage for us to eat. It really captures the warmth of the world in the cold years!
Third, drink and win.
Every time I go back to Yangquan and walk on Taijiu Expressway, I always get a phone call from the little girl Li Runsheng: "Where have you been now?"
"After Jingxing, it's almost settled."
"Okay, the road in our city is not easy. I'll wait for you at the high-speed exit. Tonight, I will take you to Pingding Restaurant next to Shirley Hotel to eat sauerkraut! "
Glutinous rice, also known as glutinous rice, is named after it looks like a tadpole, which is the benchmark for calming down and eating! Yangquan City originated from Pingding Prefecture, although Pingding County has now become the jurisdiction of Yangquan. Yangquan dialect is pingding dialect, and Yangquan diet is actually pingding diet. Yangquan people have a mantra: "If you fall, you really fall. Yam is delicious." When I was a child, the Chinese food of Yangquan people was often sauerkraut.
Just like squeezing, there must be a bed for sipping. Steel, one end is a handle with a small hole, the other end is a dovetail, placed on an iron pot, and the bed is even and round. Mix a little bean flour and white flour with Hosta Hosta, mix the flour with warm water, make it a little, divide it into small balls, put it on a sipping bed, flatten it, push it gently with a sip, and make a cup! Small tadpole-like tips that fell from the sipping bed and jumped into the water, swimming around in the boiling iron pot, really beautiful! Boil for one minute, then take it out and put it in a basin, rinse it with cold water, then put it in a bowl, pour in brine and take a sip.
It is said that "sauerkraut is delicious", so make sauerkraut the protagonist! I remember the practice at that time: put oil in the pot, stir-fry the pepper and dried Chili until it is 70% mature, then add shredded onion, shredded ginger and shredded garlic to stir-fry, then pour sauerkraut and other side dishes in turn, add salt and soy sauce as appropriate, and add water to boil, and the famous sauerkraut will be served.
Pickled sauerkraut can drive away cold and increase heat in winter and cool off heat in summer. Tadpoles are smooth and tender. If you chew them a little, they will slide into your stomach like tadpoles. Because it is coarse grains, it can promote gastrointestinal peristalsis, which is really a good health product. It carries the historical memory of Yangquan people!
Fourth, the speculation is not bad.
Stir-fried is also a special food in Yangquan, which is named because its fried rubbings will not break. White flour and rice are widely used in cooking now, but it was impossible in the sixties and seventies! At that time, there was no rice, and white flour was rationed. No one could stand it!
There are many potatoes in Sanjin, which are called yam eggs. Peel potatoes first, shred them and rinse them with clean water, then pour them into corn flour mixed with pepper powder to make them sticky, and then steam them on a steamer. After steaming, put it in the air, heat oil in the pot, add chopped green onion, garlic slices and steamed shredded potatoes, fry until light yellow, add salt and fry until it is not rotten. Tender outside and fragrant inside!
Not only potatoes, Shanxi people are hardworking and intelligent, and all kinds of money, Sophora japonica and so on can be used for frying! In order to pick and fry Sophora japonica, I also experienced an embarrassing encounter of being caught! It happened when I was in the fifth grade of primary school.
At that time, there was a spacious Little Square in front of the "East Four Feet" dispatching room. On the south side of the square, there are two tall and dense locust trees, which are dotted with branches like snow, and their fragrance is overflowing. Later, whenever I read "Thousands of Trees Filled with Silver for Spleen" and "A Little Frost in the Courtyard", these two locust trees and this neat Little Square will always come to my mind!
I observed it with my second primary school (Li Runsheng) for a long time! One afternoon after school, in order to pick Sophora japonica flowers and fry them at home, we climbed up the tree with our schoolbags on our backs. I greedily ate the sweet Sophora japonica and tucked it into my schoolbag. When I was picking it, I suddenly heard a loud cry: "Someone stole Sophora japonica!" " "
Looking down, many people have gathered under the tree, and we are trapped in the tree! My second primary school and I were taken to the dispatching room by them, and were punished for standing and seriously questioned by several people. We tacitly, just bowed our heads and said nothing! After a long time, I suddenly heard a woman in the crowd shout, "Ah, that's Li Lianlian's house!" " "
Li Lianlian is the father of the second primary school. At that time, he served as the deputy mine manager of No.2 Mine. Hearing the woman's words, several people who questioned us froze. They won't give us any more trouble, but they won't let us go. We were detained for a while, and the second sister came and we were taken away by her. After all, I took care of the father of the second child, and they didn't ask us for compensation or tell our school. They just regard him as a naughty boy in the mine.
Five, paste du
Hudu is also a special breakfast in Yangquan, which is sticky pasta made of Hosta noodles. It was originally a delicacy for the poor in mountain villages, but it won the favor of Yangquan people because of its special dipping sauce, moderate hardness and the taste of Xian Yi, old and young Xian Yi!
Boiling is very troublesome! First, put clear water in the pot, then put the washed diced potatoes and beans into the pot and cook them. When the water is boiled and the vegetables are half cooked, sprinkle with Hosta noodles. The spreading surface should be spread in a circular shape along the extension line of boiling water, and there should be steam-permeable gaps in the middle and edge. After the noodles are sprinkled, cover the pot and cook slowly. When the water and flour in the pot can be mixed evenly, the paste is mixed. Paste making must be operated by two people. One person holds the edge of the pot tightly, while the other person stirs it quickly with a rolling pin. After the noodles, vegetables and water are fully integrated, a pot of gorgeous paste is ready!
When my family was in Yangquan, because my mother couldn't cook, I never ate paste du at home. When I went to play, I just caught up with my classmates and occasionally had a bite with them, but I didn't think it was delicious. When I went back to Yangquan on October 20 13, my classmates invited my wife and I to spend the night in Cuifeng Mountain, and specially ordered the paste Fangdu (improved now, of course). Zheng Shuwen was very cautious and specially brought garlic hot sauce. Licking the soft sticky paste and dipping it in the light sour, spicy and sweet Chili sauce is delicious. That was the first time I really tasted it!
Six, crisp sesame seed cake
Shanxi is the capital of pasta, and pasta is the most popular in China. Besides Daoxiao Noodles, I'm afraid there are several fried sesame cakes! The crisp sesame cakes in Shanxi are particularly attractive: golden and crisp, with distinct layers and soul!
The crisp biscuits made in the No.5 canteen of Yangquan No.2 Mine are particularly delicious. Tear off a crisp strand and chew it between your teeth, full of fragrance. The cakes inside are full of the aroma of salt and pepper, which stimulates the taste buds. At that time, we called it "screw turn".
"Go, ask my mother for money and buy screws." The second primary school quietly called me.
On the east side of our school is the office building of No.2 Mine, and on the southeast side of the office building is the No.5 canteen. In my second year, we both loved crispy sesame cakes, so we often made greedy. Suffering from the lack of money and meal tickets in my pocket, I often took me with me when I was a child. After the second class in the morning, I went to the civil engineering team to ask our mother for money. The civil engineering team of No.2 Mine is a compound. The mother of the second primary school is in the north yard, and her mother is on the second floor on the south side. Usually, when we join the civil engineering team, we will separate and grind our mother separately: fifty cents and two meal tickets, and we have an appointment to meet at the gate to get money.
Every time I break up with him, on the way to Xiaolou, I start playing drums in my heart! At that time, the society had low salary and no other income. My parents were only in 46 yuan at that time, and they still had to support their grandmother, send their uncle to college, and support our three children. It's really hard, but the second home is relatively better. Although I knew in my heart that I shouldn't do this, every time I was called by Class Two, I never refused because of face.
Standing in front of my mother, my mother asked me, "What can I do for you?"
"I want to ask you for five cents and two meal tickets."
"Buy screw baked wheat cake again? Are you two together? "
"Yes" I mumbled something.
Mother winked and handed me money and a meal ticket without saying a word. However, I feel very guilty! I keep thinking, "this can't happen anymore. Really shouldn't! And my brother is at school ... "
When we met the second primary school, we rushed to the fifth canteen and bought itchy crisp biscuits. When we chew greedily, the expression of satisfaction hangs proudly on our delicate cheeks.
Seven, Yangquan cake suppression
"The golden cake is as thin as paper, and the entrance is crisp." Cake-pressing pan is a special food in Yangquan City, which originated from Niangziguan Village, Niangziguan Town, Pingding County.
According to legend, Tang Gaozu Li Yuan sent his daughter Princess Pingyang to the Niangziguan. In a certain battle, female soldiers were trapped in the pass and deprived of food! In order to resist the strong enemy, the villagers used spring water to make batter and baked it into shortcakes which are easy to store and transport, as rations for female soldiers. The morale of the female soldiers was greatly boosted and they finally held the pass. Then, the sweet and delicious shortbread was handed down, as for today!
Making pressed cakes also requires pressed cakes. Those are two round steel plates with iron handles welded on the back. One summer, my sister got a pair of cake-pressed tobacco from nowhere, and accompanied by the hissing cicadas, she kept making cakes for our family! She first mixed corn flour and saccharin into batter, then greased the batter, scooped it up and poured it on a piece of steel, then quickly pressed down two pieces of steel, and baked it with the stove as the fulcrum. With the rich grain fragrance, Huang Cancan and delicious pressed cakes came out!
Take a bite of the cake, and the crisp crack will spread to the auricle through your mouth, which is very cool! Thin crumbs of cake twist gently between the tip of the tongue, and the locked grain fragrance spreads in the mouth, with endless aftertaste!
Eight, coarse grain intensive cultivation and flour and rice intensive cultivation.
There are many delicious foods in Yangquan in my memory, such as sesame cakes spread out by cast iron molds, oil-soaked pies in Xiyou Hotel, sliced pork soup in Yangquan Power Plant, fried cakes and nuts in No.2 Mine and No.1 canteen, and braised noodles and cylinder bricks made by every household. Of course, there are fried cakes in Huang Chengcheng and beautiful steamed buns in various colors, but those are luxury goods and can only be enjoyed during the Spring Festival.
Coarse grain intensive cooking and flour rice intensive cooking are two major characteristics of Shanxi diet, both of which are very clear!
At that time, food was rationed, which seemed to be 28 Jin/month/person, including 30% flour and rice and 70% coarse grains. As soon as we buy grain every month, our family will go to the grain depot with our father. Father pushed his "permanent" weighted bicycle, which was full of all kinds of food bags, and we held it carefully. Such a high proportion of coarse grains is hard to beat the wise Shanxi people, who uphold the consciousness of fine coarse grains, make food exquisite and create warmth in poor years!
It is said that "Shanxi old acyl" is digging, because I don't understand! It's true that people in Shanxi are doing well, I don't deny it, but it's forced out of poverty, and you don't have to dig it! Because I am from Beijing, I can't help going back to my hometown during the holidays. In my young mind, I have deliberately compared the structural differences between pancakes in Beijing and Shanxi: pancakes in Beijing are basin-shaped, with a flat bottom and vertical edges around them. I think this may be to prevent oil from spilling. The cake in Shanxi is drum-shaped, three feet below, which is convenient for shoveling and pressing, and the oil overflows from the middle. The cake baked in this way is naturally more crisp and delicious. Indeed, Shanxi pancakes are far more delicious than Beijing pancakes!
Then there is jiaozi, Shanxi people especially like to eat jiaozi, and Yangquan is called flat food. At that time, pork was 6 jiao/kg. When I was a child, I was often surprised that Shanxi people were willing to spend 2 yuan to cut meat for a flat meal, but our family has always been reluctant to part with it, even though we are dual employees! Fortunately, Shanxi people have a habit that whoever cooks flat food will send a bowl to my harmonious neighbor, so that I can often eat that kind of meaty flat food!
Shanxi people, with their persistence in life, have the courage to turn life into flowers! Limited flour and rice must be refined in their hands, and Hua Mao is one of them! Every Spring Festival, Shanxi people make colorful steamed buns. In the hands of a clever woman, white flour has become animals and birds, flowers, birds, fish and insects, innocent dolls, lifelike, conveying rich local culture and Shanxi and Shaanxi customs!
When I visited the "Wang Family Courtyard" in Lingshi, the poem "Lying in the marsh and listening to the waves is a shortcut on earth" has been lingering in my mind. No matter how hard and far I walk, no matter how stupid and greedy I used to be, what I can't stay in my heart will always be that unrestrained, leisurely, silly and honest youth! Accompanied by that simple food, curling smoke and rough cold!
The night is lonely, and the court is silent and shadowy. "COVID-19" virus is still attacking that terrible man's clothes, giving the world a sense of fear! But the world is in a hurry to get together, how many debts can be repaid? Can you taste the original sin to be redeemed? I have to put away my resentment, pour all my hopes on the glass and pin my thoughts on it!
Hence the topic poem way:
You Yanping was depressed at the beginning, and the situation was even more lonely.
Clouds are shrouded in haze and hearts are shattered by love.
When you are tired, you will know the new sadness. When you are tired, you will still think of the old and noble.
Oak has nothing to do with rise and fall, but music is accompanied by fishing fire.
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