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On the Folk Custom of "Chewing Wine"
? Talk about it? Chewing wine? A preliminary study of folk customs

Paper Keywords Taiwan Province aborigines chewing alcohol Buji

Abstract of the paper? Chewing wine? Using the principle of saliva fermentation to make wine is one of the most primitive methods. In the historical records of China, only the Buji people in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties and the aborigines in Taiwan Province Province since the Ming Dynasty used this unique brewing technology. On the basis of material analysis, this paper discusses? Chewing wine? The process of the emergence, development and extinction of folk customs.

? Chewing wine? This is one of the most primitive ways to make wine. It is this principle that people use the saccharification of salivary enzymes to ferment and make yeast to make wine. Based on historical documents, this paper analyzes the Buji people and the aborigines in Taiwan Province Province. Chewing wine? The History of Folklore makes a preliminary discussion on the process of the emergence, development and extinction of this folk custom, so as to more truly understand the social production level and people's material production and lifestyle at that time. Please correct me.

First, Ji Buji? Chewing wine? folk custom

The Buji nationality is one of the ancient nationalities in the northeast of China. In the historical evolution, the names of its national subjects are constantly changing. Said in the pre-Qin period? Be careful? Speaking of Han and Jin? Hey? From Southern and Northern Dynasties to Sui and Tang Dynasties? Hey? Future generations say? Boogie? 、? Hey? (valerian) said, late tang dynasty? Bohai sea? From the Five Dynasties to the early Ming Dynasty? Jurchen? From the late Ming Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty? Manchuria? . The ancestors of Manchu, Buji and Zuoju people living in Northeast China mainly engaged in animal husbandry, fishing and hunting and primitive agriculture. Therefore, its dietary customs have the characteristics of nomadic and agricultural nationalities, that is, both meat and vegetables are eaten.

The earliest record of him chewing wine was in Shu Wei? Buji Chuan:? There are millet and wheat, and vegetables are sunflowers. Water vapor is salty and condensed. Salt grows on trees and there are salt pools. Many pigs, but no sheep. Chewing rice to make wine can make people drunk. ? "Northern history? Don't take any chances "also includes:? Coupled farming, the soil is rich in millet, wheat, vegetables are sunflowers, water is salty, salt is produced on the bark of wood, and there is a salt pond. Its livestock are more pigs than sheep, chewing rice for wine and drinking it is also drunk. ? It can be seen that during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Buji people had settled down and operated extensive agriculture. Crops include millet, wheat and wheat, all of which are traditional crops in Heilongjiang River Basin, because they are drought-resistant and cold-resistant. Combined with archaeological findings, it is equivalent to the lower culture of Tongren site in Suibin, Heilongjiang Province during Buji period, and advanced agricultural instruments such as shovels, knives and iron sickles have been unearthed. The progress of farming technology and the use of iron tools make food crops in short supply. Chewing rice to make wine can make you drunk? Provides a material basis. Sui Shu? Legend of the Stab Bow records:? There are chariots and horses, and the tenant farmers work together. Chariots are grinding and chewing rice to make wine. Drinking can make you drunk. ? Old Tang book? Biography of Jay:? Its livestock should be pigs and there are hundreds of rich people. Eat its meat, skin it and make wine. ? New Tang book? Heishuijie record:? There are many animals, and there are many cattle and sheep. There are chariots and horses, coupled plows and chariots pushing step by step. There are millet and wheat. Tuduo mink, white rabbit and white eagle. The steam in the salt spring is thin and the salt condenses on the trees. Chewing rice is wine, which can make you drunk. ? These materials show that from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Buji and Juju people not only ate pork, but also grain was one of their main foods. They have adopted this point? Coupled farming? Farming methods. According to the brewing principle, when brewing wine with grain, because the starch in grain can't directly react with yeast, it must go through the saccharification process first, that is, the starch is decomposed into maltose and then fermented into alcohol. Saccharification and alcoholization are two indispensable main processes in the brewing process, forming the koji-stalk brewing method. As early as the Qin and Han dynasties, the technology of brewing and koji-making in the Central Plains had reached a high level. In Zheng Xuan's view, Zhou Li is noteworthy. Is it at Tianguan Jiuzheng? There are many ways to make wine, but there are also ingenious ways to sell it. ? We should not only pay attention to koji making, but also pay attention to brewing technology and methods. What about the Buji people? Chewing wine? The law is that they chew? Rice? Or? Rice? , so that it is broken and contains saliva, because sialidase can be fermented, can be used as koji, stored in a vessel, and will be made into wine in time. It is not difficult to see that they already know that wine-making needs koji, but they can't process it. They can only use chewing and koji-making methods through the accumulation of life experience.

Later books, such as the National Records of the Khitan, Yuan Gui, and Xu's Three Dynasties and North Alliance, all recorded the state ownership. Chew rice for wine? Books on customs, general classics, general records, and general examinations in literature? Don't pass it on? This kind? Chew rice for wine? Customs are constantly recorded, but they are not beyond the historical scope of Shu Wei and the North. Continuous records show that the method of chewing wine was very popular in the life of Buji and Jiejie people at that time. However, because Buji and Jiejie were scattered all over the country at that time, and? Each city and town has its own strengths and is not unified? . This primitive state of independent production and life shows its closeness. At the same time, the lack of its own written records leads to the simplification of chewing wine in literature records. This is also closely related to its geographical environment and diet structure.

First, the distribution area of Buji and JJ. According to Shu Wei:? North of Koguryo? . According to two Tang books, where is it? East to the sea, west to Turkey, south to North Korea and north to Shiwei? . It is equivalent to the Bohai Sea in the east, the Jiya River in Russia and the Nenjiang River in China in the west, the Gushiwei and Qidan, the Songhua River and Tumen River in the south, and the Okhotsk Sea and Kuye Island in the north. It belongs to the mid-temperate monsoon climate. Winter is long and cold, summer is short and cool, and spring and autumn are short. Because? Drink less alcohol to promote blood circulation, strengthen the spirit to keep out the cold, dispel anxiety, ward off evil spirits and eliminate filth? J, not the cold zone where Ji and Jie are located, is it alcohol? Strong spirit and strong spirit to keep out the cold? Role is more important.

Second, the diet structure of raising pigs, eating pork and eating raw cold drinks. Before the Yuan Dynasty, the records of Manchu ancestors about raising pigs in their animal husbandry were almost endless in history. "Once"? Lou Zhuan records:? It is a good thing to raise, eat and skin tapirs. ? Jin Shu? The biography of Dongyi records:? Many livestock and pigs eat their meat and coat their skins. Spit out the meat with your feet, you get frozen meat and sit on it to keep warm. ? In the history of Shu Wei and the North? Bad luck? Mainly raising pigs. In the Tang Dynasty, Xie Jie people in Heishui lived mainly by releasing pigs. The habit of eating cold drinks raw, such as? Its meals are made of wine powder, beans as sauce, half-cooked rice as rice, raw dog blood and leeks as stains. . ? Whether in winter or summer, its people drink cold water. . This diet structure of Buji and his descendants involves the problem of how to help digestion. Because I live in the northeast, it's cold and isolated from the world, so I made a kind of food that is helpful for appetizing and digestion? Paste rice tea? That is, fry the millet and drink it with water. This kind? No more tea? Our life has led to the habit of drinking. Did Manchu people drink it in the early days? Mill wine? , Manchu said? Zhan Chong works hard? Is it their favorite homemade wine, which is yellow rice wine? Sake? 、? Yuan wine? . The brewing method of this wine is recorded in Hu Congdong's Travels: boiled grain is a kind of glutinous rice, which can be brewed in a moment by bending tillers. Drink slightly sweet at night, and you won't get drunk if you drink too much. ? "Ninggutalue" also records that ordinary Manchu families can? Homemade rice wine? . This custom of loving wine and good wine is its predecessor? Chewing rice to make wine? Is it their right to inherit a custom of inertia? Beyond the Great Wall? The result of active adaptation to the cold climate.

Second, Taiwan Province aborigines? Chewing wine? folk custom

In Taiwan Province province, the treasure island of the motherland, the aborigines living in the mountains are also very popular? Chewing wine? Custom. Because Taiwan Province Province is isolated from overseas, there is little communication with the outside world, and there is no written language and unified language, so the earliest and slightly detailed written record of this folk custom can be found in the book Yan Exposes Tan Yu by Chen Jiru in the Ming Dynasty. It is recorded in the book that Ryukyu brewing takes waterlogged rice as raw material, which makes women rub their hands and chew juice. The longer they stay, the longer they stay, the more they are named Mickey. ? About what? The custom of chewing wine? The details are mainly recorded in the Qing Dynasty. For example, "Yilin Huikao" records: And foreign brewing methods. In Korea, women chew rice, while in Ryukyu, they still eat grain. ? It is recorded in Taiwan Province Omission in the 26th year of Kangxi? People like to drink, chew rice in their mouths and hide it in bamboo slips. The wine will be cooked in a few days. When the guests arrive, they will be respectful, taste it first and then delay. ? "Qing dynasty paper money? Toast from Taiwan Province wine tasting:? People in Taiwan Province Province also chew raw rice into music, mix it with steamed rice, put it in a hidden place in the jar, taste it in May, and mutter a word to yourself, if you watch it. ? The sea trip includes: the number of bamboo tubes is new. Its brewing method is to gather men, women and children to chew their rice bowls for several days to make wine. When drinking, people are clear and harmonious. ? What was recorded in the government records of Taiwan Province Province during the Kangxi period? Chewing wine? It is consistent with the records in the Biography of Taiwan Province Province. " "Danshui Tanglu" contains: there is no cultivation in the south, and there are few rice and millet. Three meals a day are also chewed into wine with millet. ? Combining documentary records with Taiwan Province aborigines? Chewing wine? The existing research results of culture can be summarized as follows:

First, the aborigines in Taiwan Province Province live in the deep mountains and have little communication with the outside world. ? Chewing wine? Folk customs are very popular among the aborigines in Taiwan Province Province. Such as Bunun, paiwan and Rukai? Put rice in your mouth, chew it constantly, replace yeast, or make koji with Chenopodium fruit? . In addition, Atayal, Shao, Cao and A-mei also use this method. It was not until the middle of the 20th century that they contacted each other.

Second, it has a certain religious color. For example, after the autumn harvest season, recommend a good-looking person first? Maggie. Let her chew rice for music. Muttering in your mouth? . Then steam or mash rice with people, add rice soup and water and hide it in the urn. Will there be a fragrance in the urn? Alcohol? Then you can unseal it and drink it. This kind? Chewing and brewing Homemade wine, commonly known as? Aunt? . This wine is mellow and delicious, and has a unique flavor. Is it necessary for ancient tribes to collectively sacrifice and drink alcohol? Wine for the banquet. A Qing poet Yu Yongkang praised: The money giver skillfully chews raw rice into pulp. The bamboo tube is hung on the head of the urn, and guests are advised to open the tube and taste it. ?

Third, the geographical location and special climate of Taiwan Province Province. Because it is located in north latitude 15? 25 degrees east longitude 120? Between 65438 degrees and 025 degrees? More heat and less cold, constant seven out of ten. In Zhong Ding's family, animal charcoal and mink are useless. Thin people can die at the age of 20 without clothes and brown. Flowers don't bloom often, but leaves of wood last for a long time, with frequent droughts in spring and autumn. . Therefore, in a hot and humid climate, wine? Evil spirits and filth? Its practical function is more important.

Third, the custom of chewing wine was eliminated.

As for the custom of chewing wine, it is hard to find traces of it among the Manchu people and the aborigines in Taiwan Province Province today. Its disappearance has both internal and external reasons.

The internal cause is that the yeast processed by saliva enzyme used in wine chewing method is not as good as tiller's special wine-making function. Namely. Thin taste? The purity is not high. In addition, Buji's descendants established the regimes of Bohai, Jin and Qing successively in history, which accelerated their evolution to a more civilized country to varying degrees.

In the analysis of external causes, we must first examine the situation of bad luck and poor connection.

First, communication with the outside world, especially influenced by the advanced culture of the Central Plains. Since the Han and Jin Dynasties, there have been records of paying tribute to the Central Plains. There are two important tributes. The official contacts with the Northern Wei Dynasty are: Yan Xingwen (47 1? 475) Send Party B money; In the first year of Taihe (477), nine years, ten years, thirteen years, seventeen years, and four years of Jingming? Endless tribute? . In Beiqi, there were still many tributes. ? In the early years of Sui Dynasty, did you send envoys to contribute? . At that time, because it was adjacent to Qidan, it was often looted. They listened to Emperor Wendi of Sui Dynasty? Don't attack each other? Warnings were also rewarded in court. The ironware unearthed from the Buji site mentioned above shows that under the influence of the advanced culture of the Central Plains, Buji and Fuxi societies have developed rapidly. The brewing technology of Zhongyuan should have an influence on its chewing style.

Secondly, Buji's descendants have a hobby since Jurchen, and they have a great demand for wine. Before Jin Taizu, Jurchen was addicted to alcohol. Shi Zaijing Zuwu Gunai (102 1? 1092)? Alcoholic and lecherous, drunk? . Such as civil marriage, husband? Worship the door and use wine, ranging from ten cars to ten times. Drink good wine with black gold and silver cups first, and the poor use wood? . Once, in order to control drinking, Jurchen rulers even tried to control drinking. Speaking of festivals, festivals, can I have a drink? . In the Jin Dynasty, because the demand for wine increased greatly, the method of chewing wine was no longer used to make wine.

Third, the Central Plains people migrated to the northeast. Reflection? The biography of Guan Ning records:? Those who like to live in Liaodong, those who are fond of painting, or those who are mixed with men and women have been transplanted in the Central Plains for several generations, with Qilu being the most. ? 【J? There are three reasons for the etiquette and customs in this province: one day, the ancestors passed the customs; On the second day, the new customs in the Central Plains are closer to Qilu than to the south. The west is vulgar, close to the secluded swallow; Located in the northeast, but few people transplant it, so they can often keep the old customs? . With the arrival of new immigrants, the advanced brewing technology in the Central Plains will naturally be passed down, and the method of chewing wine will gradually be eliminated.

Taiwan Province aborigines' custom of chewing wine died out directly under the compulsory policy of * * * in the early Republic of China. Records of the draft annals of Taiwan Province Province:? Taiwan Province people are addicted to alcohol, worship gods and Ke Yan, and use old wine. Brewed by craft, the taste is sweet and mellow, and the old wine is particularly good, so the old wine is old. Old wine is red, used to get married and take your own luck. Sweet potato is used as wine in rural areas, which has a light taste. Mountain cells are brewed with millet, and relatives and friends get together and get drunk. There is a broad market for good wine abroad. Tobacco and alcohol are monopolized by * *. Therefore, ordinary sellers only have green sprinkles, red wine and beer produced by the monopoly bureau. ? During the Republic of China, in order to monopolize the liquor business, the villagers were strictly allowed to make liquor privately, and in order to develop mountain resources, the aborigines in Taiwan Province Province were forced to move out of the mountains many times, forcing them to integrate into modern social life. This is undoubtedly decisive for its custom of chewing wine? Revolution? .

Four. conclusion

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Although the custom of chewing wine has disappeared in Chinese mainland and Taiwan Province Province, the above analysis is enough to prove the survival wisdom of our ancestors and give profound enlightenment to future generations.