Article 22 of the Regulations stipulates that the claim of cosmetic efficacy should have sufficient scientific basis. Cosmetic registrants and applicants shall publish literature abstracts, research materials or product efficacy evaluation materials on the special website designated by the drug supervision and administration department of the State Council, and accept social supervision.
Some people say that the "Regulations" based on efficacy claims will bring down a large number of local enterprises, especially small and medium-sized enterprises. In this regard, we believe that we should not only see its impact on the industry, but also see its positive encouragement and guidance to the industry.
First of all, the regulations based on efficacy claims help to correct unhealthy trends in the industry.
In recent years, there has been an unhealthy trend in the cosmetics industry, that is, trying every means to link brands with the pharmaceutical industry, secretly emphasizing that they do not exist as "cosmeceuticals" or have "medical beauty/medicine" endorsements. If medical endorsement is the way for cosmetics brands to break through, then Johnson & Johnson's beauty brands should obviously sell better than L 'Oreal, Shiseido and Estee Lauder, but it turns out that this is not the case.
What consumers want is the real beauty effect, not the positioning of "cosmeceuticals" or the concept of "medical beauty". In this case, it is better to honestly claim the efficacy of cosmetics. Seeing the real efficacy evaluation of products from the authoritative national websites is far more trustworthy than the information obtained through advertising, kol, live broadcast and other channels.
Secondly, help cosmetics tear off the inherent label of "marketing industry".
Cosmetics has always been a marketing-oriented industry, and the brand SG&; The expense ratio is generally above 40%. According to the data of Guo Xin Securities Economic Research Institute, since 20 13 years, the operating profit of L 'Oré al Group's active health cosmetics department, which mainly focuses on brands with clear efficacy such as Vichy (anti-aging), la roche-posay (soothing) and Melody (restoration), has been higher than other departments. Compared with Estee Lauder and Shiseido, L 'Oré al's SG&: A expense ratio is lower, which is partly due to the relatively perfect layout of its active and healthy cosmetics and the continuous increase of its revenue share. This shows that when the efficacy of the brand itself becomes a market memory point, its marketing expenses account for a relatively low proportion.
Of course, not all brands have the technical advantages and R&D resources of L 'Oré al Group. Therefore, efficacy testing will become the general trend of cosmetics industry. This is not only to improve laws and regulations, but also to let consumers buy reliable and suitable products. In addition, efficacy testing can also be used in raw material development, formula screening, academic reports, listing and filing, sales support, patent application, publishing papers and other aspects, so that the efficacy claims of cosmetics can be well documented.
Third, efficacy will become a passport for efficacy brands.
The efficacy claim of cosmetics should have sufficient scientific basis, that is to say, brands can no longer claim the efficacy of products with empty words, but should produce corresponding "evidence" to prove it.
If a skin care product claims to have whitening effect, it needs to take out literature, research data and product efficacy evaluation test to prove it. If no evidence can be produced, according to the provisions of Article 62 of the new regulations, you can be fined, ordered to make rectification, and suspend production or business.
Similarly, a cosmetic with only 0. 1% or even lower ingredients may only appear in the form of trace elements. So some people strongly oppose symmetry, which is not conducive to brand promotion. It is true that some ingredients can be added below 0. 1% to show efficacy, but if this regulation is aimed at all brands, it means that it is fair to every enterprise and brand.
In recent years, behind the trend represented by ingredient party, sensitive muscle and barrier repair is the strong rise of functional skin care products. Compared with the high-end market, domestic brands, such as Winona and Yuze, are gradually breaking the competitive pattern of international monopoly from a scientific point of view, focusing on alleviating the repair effect and combining the promotion of new media channels. In the Catalogue of Classification Codes of Cosmetic Efficacy Claims, a supporting regulation of the Regulations, 28 categories of efficacy claims codes are clearly listed, of which 14 and 15 correspond to "repair" and "soothing" efficacy respectively.
Obviously, the standardization of product efficacy claims can promote the development of the whole industry in a more benign direction. Strengthening the management of efficacy claims can not only promote the standardization of the industry, promote the establishment of industry standards, and make the efficacy of products subject to social supervision, but also help cosmetics tear off the inherent label of the marketing industry, avoid exaggerating publicity, create a good industry development environment, increase consumers' confidence in domestic cosmetics, drive the rise of domestic products, and contribute to the healthy and sustainable development of the cosmetics industry.